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Old 12-22-2007, 02:04 PM   #1
Rokcrln
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Re: Rocker replacement 101

Now set the kick panel patch aside with the A-pillar patch. Time to fix up that rusted floor ( if needed). Use a 36grit disk (or simular) to clean up the floor. What you are looking for is noice shinny metal out past that brown rust. Mark a patch about 1-2" beyond the rust stains for your floor patch. Do the same for the side of the floor if yours is as bad as mine was. For the side patch take a piece of sheet metal and clamp it to the cab then scribe the patch and cut it out with your tin snips. Don't forget to mark and drill out the four floor suport holes while you are at it. Once that is done bolt it in for a test fit. If it fit good leave it bolted in and start on the main floor patch.

For this one use a piece of craft paper for your templet. Cut it over sized and hold it in place with one hand and mark the outer edge that over hangs the side patch with your other hand. Once that is marked and cut see how it fits then mark the other side of the patch that sits on the floor. Once you are happy with the paper patch transfer that to a piece of sheet metal and cut it out. If your patch extends up the curve of the floor board like mine did you should be able to just bend it with your hands to fit. Try and get it so it fits with out having to push it into place. Once that is done it is time to use yout metal floor patch to mark the floor for cutting.

Kevin
LFD inc.
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Last edited by Rokcrln; 12-23-2007 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 12-22-2007, 02:05 PM   #2
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Re: Rocker replacement 101

I found that a good way to scrib the line on shinny metal is to use a marker and over mark your area then scribe the lines. It will show up better this way. Then cut out the bad area and test fit your patch while at the same time mark the location of the floor suports onto the new patch so you can drill a few hole for plug welding. If all the gaps look good and the outer edge lines up good with the side patch then it is time to start tack welding it all in place. Once it is tacked in place start welding it up but skip around so you done warp the floor. Then grind it down and coat it with primmer. Then bolt in the kick panel and get ready for more welding and grinding

Kevin
LFD Inc.
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Last edited by Rokcrln; 12-23-2007 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 12-22-2007, 02:24 PM   #3
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Re: Rocker replacement 101

If the kick panel fits good and it should if you have been following the steps Go ahead and weld, grind and prime.
Next is the A-post, you will want to trim some off the top or alot depending what kid of shape your is in. Mine I needed about all it had so I trimmed of about 1/4" and bolted it back in place for it's last scribing. Then I pulled it off and re-cut the A-post to the new scribe line. Then for the last time bolt it in a weld it up. Make sure you have cut out the hinge bolt holes if your patch is that high. Once you grind it smooth, prime it and move on to the outer rocker!

For the rest of this you will need to go to page two post 33 because I did not leave enough blank posts and took to many pics!

Kevin
LFD inc.
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Last edited by Rokcrln; 12-23-2007 at 07:12 PM.
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Old 12-22-2007, 03:48 PM   #4
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Re: Rocker replacement 101

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdstx View Post
I got so caught up in my own BS, I forgot to ask the question. Can you detail how do you deal with maintaining/improving door/fender alignment throughout the repair?
Thats an easy one! Get the new rocker ready to weld on but just use a few sheet metal screws to hold it in place and re-hang the door and check the gaps. I might hang the fenders but have not decided yet. I will show pics!

Kevin
LFD Inc.
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Old 12-22-2007, 06:21 PM   #5
Rokcrln
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Re: Rocker replacement 101

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Originally Posted by Psycho71 View Post
Thanks,


I do have one question though...Why do they put a hole in the front end of the rocker, and then sell a plug for it? Does it serve a purpose? Just kinda weird if it doesn't.



Jay
Not really sure but I plan on using that hole to spray "body wax" in their to help stop future rust. Don't know why the factory did it because they did not use it for rust protection

Kevin
LFD Inc.
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Old 12-23-2007, 07:32 PM   #6
Rokcrln
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Re: Rocker replacement 101

Quote:
did you weld the hinge bolt hole to the new piece? does it still move so you can adjust the door? Can you get a close up of that weld?
No it is not welded to teh new patch panel. The clip that holds in the threaded plate is welded above the top two bolt holes and was still solid. So all I did was cut out a hole for the bolt to go thru and still have room to adjust like the ones above it.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Last edited by augie; 04-09-2011 at 02:44 PM.
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