How to convert LWB to SWB

[Rokcrln]

Starting with the bottom place your tack weld about 1/2" from each side of each panel clip. Then when you get up to the top body line you will need to place a very small screwdriver in the gap and flex the metal in the direction you want it to go. Do this in little amounts at a time so you do not streach the metal. You want to change the curve ever so slightly! Once you have done this and the body stays were you want it and is flat then tack it in place about every 2" apart. Repeat for the other side. Do the same thing for the floor but panel clips are not needed unless you plan on painting and polishing your bed floor. I will be doing some form of a spray in or roll on bed liner so I did not spend as much time on the floor as I did the outer body. For the front I had to deal with the old gas doors. This added more tape and cut time but it is still the same process as the back.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Now you can cut off the braces you have on the rear and add them to the front. Place them so that once you have cut out the section it is left in the bed near the wheel wells. The front of the bed will holds its own shape. The rear is about the same as the front. I had to jog my cut line over abit to make up for the gas door hole. I could not just do a straite cut thru the gas door because it would have hit the front stake pocket and the front bed support. I came 8 3/4" from the rear edge of the front stake pocket and then another 12" for the section that I would remove. Tape it off the same way as you did the front including the inside of the bed and the floor. Just the out side was joged and the inside stayed strate. I found it easier to make a cut on the inside of the bed from side to side near the bottom so when the out side was cut I could just lift off each side one by one then pull the floor out. Then unbolt the front bed mount bolts and remount it on the bed mount that the factory put right were we needed them.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

OOOOOP'S I do not know what happened but I did it on both sides. No bit deal I will just cut a filler strip and tack it in

Now everything you will do for the front of the bed will be just like the rear. Once it is all tacked you can start welding it up by adding tacks between each existing tack. Do not try and weld one section in one shot or you will have a very good chance of warpage. I only tacked each area so I would be able to tack one panel and move to another while the first one cools and by the time I work my way around all four side I am ready to start all over.

I do not have any finished shots of the bed side because I ran out of .023 welding wire before I could finish. So in the next few days as time allows I will get back to this and finish it up. I still need to fine the gas tank that I will mount under the bed and install the gas door so I can finish body work. Once the body work is done I will pull it off for paint and then cut the 12" out of the frame and do the flip kit.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

And the last shot for now! Before and after.

Here is a post that I came accross awhile ago and it is a great how-to on shortening the frame. I will be doing mine just like this but not for a month or so. Like I said I will be using this thread for my frame cut so I though I would link to it and not try and reinvent the wheel.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=123624

Kevin
LFD Inc.