Power brakes with manual transmission

[chevyguyase]

Here are some pictures of the booster linkage on my '54 3100 with a Borg Warner 5 speed. I don't know how close it is to your set up. Hope this helps.

[trucktony]

I found a nice photo of the carbon filter on the web.

[chevyguyase]

Hi, the great Mr48Chev mentioned me, I have a 1954 3100 with a t5 with a 250 6 cyl. a/c and power disc brakes. My power brake booster is under the truck mounted on the frame. The kit is from CPP. It was a complete kit, booster, brackets, master cyl, combination valve. Be careful , the proportioning part of this valve must be for a car, because if you drive it in the rain it will go down the road sideways. guess how I know. So add an adjustable proportioning valve on the line to the rear brakes. I used a Wilwood. If I had to do it over again I would mount it on the firewall. I would also get rid of the original emergency brake system that I fought hard to keep. My bell housing has the engine mounts attached to it and had a 4 speed granny trans attached, I don't know what it is out of. My new project is I'm putting in an electric power steering unit (EPAS) from a 2005 Prius. Wish me luck.

[Dongray]

Originally Posted by chevyguyase

Hi, the great Mr48Chev mentioned me, I have a 1954 3100 with a t5 with a 250 6 cyl. a/c and power disc brakes. My power brake booster is under the truck mounted on the frame. The kit is from CPP. It was a complete kit, booster, brackets, master cyl, combination valve. Be careful , the proportioning part of this valve must be for a car, because if you drive it in the rain it will go down the road sideways. guess how I know. So add an adjustable proportioning valve on the line to the rear brakes. I used a Wilwood. If I had to do it over again I would mount it on the firewall. I would also get rid of the original emergency brake system that I fought hard to keep. My bell housing has the engine mounts attached to it and had a 4 speed granny trans attached, I don't know what it is out of. My new project is I'm putting in an electric power steering unit (EPAS) from a 2005 Prius. Wish me luck.

So I assume you would go to the firewall due to ease of access? Or are there other reasons? I like the clean firewall which is the only reason I’m trying to keep it underneath but I can see how it can be a pia!
Now why would you drop the original ebrake? I would have thought it might be one of the more straight forward items to work with.

I have to admit if there were some cool pedal s that didn’t stick out like a sore thumb on the firewall or toe board I would really consider dropping the originals.
You will have to let me know how the epas works out . I like the concept of the mod and you don’t need to hassle with the hydraulic aspects…..that being said I’m sure it will have its own but let me know.
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[chevyguyase]

The E brake on the early trucks were built like an old iron bridge. the newer trucks are just cables and a ratcheting pedal. The original brake complicates the sheet metal work on the left front floor and the superstructure under the floors It uses rods and a huge heavy pipe (bell crank) that goes from frame rail to frame rail. When you hit any bumps that big heavy pipe rattles. The same with the Master cyl on the fire wall it is just seems to be a lot easier to put it on the firewall. It's done now and I don't have any complaints now that it is done. Also my thoughts on that filter on the power booster vacuum hose you guys are talking about. If You are running a carb. try to mount it higher than the carb like in one of the pictures above. especially if you're putting the booster under the truck like I have it. I don't think it's good idea to run a hose from your carb straight down to a booster under your truck with out first running it higher than the carb. and then down. enjoy your day.

[Dongray]

Originally Posted by chevyguyase

Here are some pictures of the booster linkage on my '54 3100 with a Borg Warner 5 speed. I don't know how close it is to your set up. Hope this helps.

Can you tell me what year bellhousing you are running? I am hooking up a 292 to a t5 in my 1950 and the bellhousing is from a late 50s truck. My clutch fork is straight so no clearance like yours. Thinking if I can find a different fork it might help.

Thanks!
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[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Dongray

Can you tell me what year bellhousing you are running? I am hooking up a 292 to a t5 in my 1950 and the bellhousing is from a late 50s truck. My clutch fork is straight so no clearance like yours. Thinking if I can find a different fork it might help.

Thanks!
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I lightened up his photo a bit so you can see it easer. It's the same exact setup that I have in my 48 that sits on a 54 frame.

The rod that goes forward from the clutch pedal has an eye on the other end that goes around the leg of the L shaped piece that also is the clutch adjustment that fastens to the fork. Save the photo to you computer and expand it and study it a bit.

[Dongray]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I lightened up his photo a bit so you can see it easer. It's the same exact setup that I have in my 48 that sits on a 54 frame.

The rod that goes forward from the clutch pedal has an eye on the other end that goes around the leg of the L shaped piece that also is the clutch adjustment that fastens to the fork. Save the photo to you computer and expand it and study it a bit.

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[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Dongray

Can you tell me what year bellhousing you are running? I am hooking up a 292 to a t5 in my 1950 and the bellhousing is from a late 50s truck. My clutch fork is straight so no clearance like yours. Thinking if I can find a different fork it might help.

Thanks!
Posted via Mobile Device

I lightened up his photo a bit so you can see it easer. It's the same exact setup that I have in my 48 that sits on a 54 frame.

The rod that goes forward from the clutch pedal has an eye on the other end that goes around the leg of the L shaped piece that also is the clutch adjustment that fastens to the fork. Save the photo to you computer and expand it and study it a bit.