1966 C10 Project Truck

[scoot_mcgrute]

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

Looking real good! Engine sounds good! Might retard the timing a hair. Hope the clutch is an easy fix!

Thanks man! I put the engine at TDC and then the distributor close to what I remembered seeing so you may be right on the timing. I still need to get a couple things done before I can run the engine long term to check the timing and such.

Originally Posted by 62stepside longbox

Nice work, your sure getting a lot done

Thanks! Being single does have it's benefits sometimes

[forestb]

Won't the inside of that tubing rust?

Originally Posted by scoot_mcgrute

Thanks man! I put the engine at TDC and then the distributor close to what I remembered seeing so you may be right on the timing. I still need to get a couple things done before I can run the engine long term to check the timing and such.



Thanks! Being single does have it's benefits sometimes

[scoot_mcgrute]

Originally Posted by forestb

Won't the inside of that tubing rust?

Yep, it will rust. The water pump and engine block will rust also.

[TJ's Chevy]

Keep Antifreeze in there and that will help prevent rust.

[scoot_mcgrute]

The throwout bearing was wrong as I had thought. The Astro Van TO bearing is plastic and I kind of marred it up a bit so we went and got one for a pickup that is all metal. Got it on and between dad, me, and the tranny jack we were struggling to get the tranny back in. I'm a little burned out to say the least so I decided to stop fighting it and come back to it next week. I've got a Jeep Jamboree this weekend so that'll help me get my mind off things and come back to the truck nice and fresh

[scoot_mcgrute]

Alright, had an awesome weekend with the Jeep Jamboree crew, it's truly one of my favorite events that I get to help out with. The participants make it awesome and I can't wait until next year!

I tinkered with the truck last night and ended up getting the tranny back in, it was a bit of a chore at first but I was able to get the angle of the tranny close to the motor and it basically slid right in. I was super stoked!

The reason why I had to drop the tranny in the first place. That spring clip is supposed to be on the other side of the throwout bearing, doh!


And it's back in!


If my buddy doesn't work on the fenders tonight, I'll be getting the driveline put back in and work on the modifications I need to do to get the alternator on. Once that's done, I need to work on the bed and get it back on while transferring some of the wiring over from the front clip just in case I'm far enough along to take it to the show on Saturday

[scoot_mcgrute]

Here's a shot of my Jeep from the weekend. The local 4H club was washing the Jeeps, we had over 100 between participants and trail guides, as a fundraiser so they could go see the presidential inauguration. I kept it pretty clean on Friday but told them I'd bring it back even dirtier on Saturday. They definitely earned their money from me Picture stolen from my work's Facebook page.

[scoot_mcgrute]

Pretty sure I have this tranny problem licked. It appears that I had 2 issues with the input shaft. The first was that it was too long and it was hitting the crank. The 2nd appeared today and that is the clutch disc was bottoming out on the backside of the splines which was also binding things up. I'll make a spacer on Monday and hopefully have this thing figured out soon. The spacer will go between the tranny and bellhousing so I will have to modify my crossmember a bit and also will need to remeasure for the driveline and get it shortened. Oh well at least I have it figured out!

For a father's day surprise, I had dad's new wheels powder coated white and even got to get his new tires mounted and on the truck this morning. I can't wait to see his reaction when he gets home tomorrow!

[62stepside longbox]

Instead of making a spacer plate couldn't you just shorten your bearing retainer? That is what I did with mine

[scoot_mcgrute]

It's not the bearing retainer, I chopped quite a bit off that as well. Where the splines end and you can see the ramp up from the tool that cut the splines is where I'm bottoming out. This picture may help explain a little better.

[62stepside longbox]

Hhmm.. I didn't have that problem and I have no spacer plate. It must be that I am running a jeep 10 spline input shaft. Hopefully you didn't cut too much off the pilot tip now that your going to use a spacer

[Johnny_Lamebridge]

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

Cool! I'd give LugNutz65 a shout about that tranny problem. He knows a lot about t5's.

When it comes to T5 info Lugnutz65 is The Man!

Originally Posted by 62stepside longbox

Hhmm.. I didn't have that problem and I have no spacer plate. It must be that I am running a jeep 10 spline input shaft. Hopefully you didn't cut too much off the pilot tip now that your going to use a spacer

scoot_mcgrute, I think these two posts are your best advice. I'm not sure which T5 you're running, but if it's an S10 model the Jeep input shaft swap is easy, and no spacer required. They can be purchased from Summit for less than $90.

Info here: http://lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly...ter-plate.html

[padresag]

Originally Posted by scoot_mcgrute

It's not the bearing retainer, I chopped quite a bit off that as well. Where the splines end and you can see the ramp up from the tool that cut the splines is where I'm bottoming out. This picture may help explain a little better.

you just have to cut out the splines a bit so that the disc can go back, 4 1/2" angle grinder gently to clear excess then clean up with a file. you do not have to go that far. cut the retainer shaft to the same length as the original one.
it will be a lot more work to make that adaptor plate. remember on that plate that it has to be machined to fit the hole in the b/housing and the the input brg collar has fit the adaptor so that means machining a place for it corresponding to the other machined part on the frt side so everything lines up properly
you may have to also grind a little off the end of the splined hub of the clutch disc. none of this is complicated
ron

[scoot_mcgrute]

Originally Posted by 62stepside longbox

Hhmm.. I didn't have that problem and I have no spacer plate. It must be that I am running a jeep 10 spline input shaft. Hopefully you didn't cut too much off the pilot tip now that your going to use a spacer

My bellhousing might be a bit shallower than others, I'm not sure but I'm running a 460486 bellhousing. It came with the setup so that's the main reason I'm using it. The pilot tip should have good engagement still in the pilot bushing. It may not be ideal but it should still have enough engagement to be ok.

Originally Posted by padresag

you just have to cut out the splines a bit so that the disc can go back, 4 1/2" angle grinder gently to clear excess then clean up with a file. you do not have to go that far. cut the retainer shaft to the same length as the original one.
it will be a lot more work to make that adaptor plate. remember on that plate that it has to be machined to fit the hole in the b/housing and the the input brg collar has fit the adaptor so that means machining a place for it corresponding to the other machined part on the frt side so everything lines up properly
you may have to also grind a little off the end of the splined hub of the clutch disc. none of this is complicated
ron

On the machined hole to fit the bearing retainer, my bellhousing has a way bigger hole than what the flange of the retainer is. I can't see it causing issues but then again I'm new to this part. What do you think?