350 GM Crate Motor questions for a 66 C10

[msg]

With the lift arm at the 1 ton mark I got it in but the chains at the front were going to bind up on the firewall. I guess with the intake manifold on I could have bolted somewhere further back where the chains would clear. I removed the mounting braces from the frame and bolted them up to the engine mount and then placed it down as far in as possible but it was a few inches away from lining up.

[msg]

With the help of some wood blocks and a bottle jack I pushed it forward in place and bolted it up. I'll post more once I get the engine further along. Right now Ill be switching to the interior to get sound deadener going.

[Ironangel]

Sometimes those levelers can be a pain, looks like you got it going your way now.

[msg]

Hey guys, Im trying to get fuel line ordered and start the bending and flaring. For this engine, what size fuel line should I be looking for and is cunifer (nickel copper) ok to use? Stainless Ive read is no fun to work with but I dont want to make a mistake.

[bigmac73]

3/8 is good enough. I have read good things about the nickel copper just make sure it is not running anywhere

[msg]

Thanks BigMac I did use nickel copper for the brake lines but I was curious if fuel may be a different story.

Originally Posted by bigmac73

just make sure it is not running anywhere

Make sure that no gasoline is running from connections you mean?

I also asked Holley since Im using their fuel pump and they said nickel copper was fine but couldnt give me a size line recommendation unless I could tell them the HP of the engine. I coiuldnt find the spec on the engine info so Im guessing it all comes down to what else is under the hood and having it dynotested. Mine will have a edelbrock intake manifold and a quadrajet sitting on top.

[bigmac73]

I am pretty sure that the given brake pressure and the corrosiveness is worse than fuel , you should be fine

[bigmac73]

[QUOTE=msg;8729795]Thanks BigMac I did use nickel copper for the brake lines but I was curious if fuel may be a different story.



I meant rubbing

[msg]

Getting back to this, its been sitting as is. I need to get the component installation started..intake and exhaust manifolds etc. I thought there would be some break in instructions with the motor but nothing. To avoid screwing up I called the tech line at GM Performance and was told there is not much to do before installing stuff. Just a pre lube. So I know nothing about the engine is pre lubed. He said its not an expensive tool and it goes through the distributor port. If anyone has any tips on getting this engine pieced together please let me know.

Oh also, he said do not run synthetic oil for the first 500 miles. After that I can if I want. Ill have to figure that out too.

[geezer#99]

Priming tools are indeed cheap.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/23640/10002/-1

You can make one from an old distributor too.
However you might have fun priiming it with the motor in place. Not much room back there.
I’ve used an angle attachment like this before.


https://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-Right-D.../dp/B0781WNBF3

[msg]

Thanks geezer! So the melonized gear thing that is needed for the L31. Is it involved in the mix, do I add it to that jegs tool? Sorry for the inexperience here. I saw a video where they made a deal about the oil pump being primed first which would mean first dropping the oil pan and pulling the oil pump and submerging it. Im hoping for simpler but want to make sure I get it right.

[geezer#99]

No gear needed.
No priming the pump either.

[msg]

I was about to order this from Amazon since I have prime and the shipping is free and since a good many reviews liked it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

I have 2 reversible drills, a dewalt and one from harbor fright to drill into concrete. The amps are higher on the dewalt though at 6 vs 4.2 on the HF. I would think that will give more power to turn things but I thought I would check with you.

Also the clearance kinda looks like it might work. Hoping at least.

[geezer#99]

Looks like enough room.
You’ll need the intake on though.

Either drill will work.
The priming tool is a universal thing. They’re all basically the same.

[msg]

The engine now has the intake manifold and oil filter installed, so I put in 4 qts of break in oil. The engine doesnt yet have its own dipstick. I took the dipstick on my old 350 and it doesnt fit so Ill be ordering a new one. Is 4 qts enough to prime it? I have the tool for it to attach to the drill, didnt want to overfill and also didnt want there to not be enough oil to be effective. Best to wait until I can get the dipstick and see where the fill level is?

[The Rocknrod]

Yes it's enough to prime it. You may have to add a bit once you get the unit primed if you "know" the dip stick is correct as far as level. So I'd check that first with 4 quarts in the pan.

[msg]

Well I bought this dipstick and installed it and pulled it out to check and with 4qts this is read I got. 3/4ish to the full line. Look about right?

[msg]

Then of course I rushed the priming without knowing if the rotation should be clockwise or not. I ran it clockwise for about 5 secs or so and then saw oil pouring down the transmission since there is a hole not covered up yet. Lost a bit of oil and temper.

[AussieinNC]

Put the oil pressure switch into the port where the oil is coming out....

Then prime again....

4 quarts is a little low....run the prime again, then check the oil level...add a pint then check again....

Filling the oil filter usually takes a pint or so....

[msg]

I did manage to get the priming done, now I am working on the carb I had run before on the previous 350. It was stored after I dismantled about 5 years ago. It was working fine when I pulled it so all I have done for now is take carb cleaner and clean it up a bit. Of course having a new carb would be great but I wanted to get by for a while with what was working. I was not wanting to rebuild it since I wouldnt know how to do it already and it was working when I pulled it. I have a new gasket to the intake but nothing replaced on it other than that. If this is just a horrible idea and or I need to do anything else please let me know.

[msg]

Looking for radiator hose replacements and thought the hoses I had before would be the same as well since the water pump would be the same style and its a 350 but what Im seeing in my pics from the tear down the lower hose looks different than what I see on part searches for a 1997 C1500 with a 5.7. Should I be searching for a different year? The radiator I will be reusing I had it rodded and redone. Looking for hoses now.

Here is a link to the lower hose I saw

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1555&jsn=10247

and here are some original pics during the teardown

[Captainfab]

You can not use either radiator hose for a '97 truck. That radiator is much wider. You will have to get a lower hose for a '63-'66 truck with a small block. it will need to be shortened since you are running a long water pump instead of the correct short water pump. For the upper hose, try one for a '68 Camaro with a small block. That is assuming you are using the angled thermostat housing.

[msg]

Thanks Captain, I thought to go with the standard type thermostat housing like this.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=2969&jsn=2969

Ive seen one that swivels but thought that could just introduce more of a leak chance. The edlebrock instuctions say to avoid chromed housings due to a gasket sealing issue I think.

[geezer#99]

Chrome ones can leak because of the different Heat expansion rates between the housing and the intake.
By the time this is all done you’re gonna be the go to guy to answer questions on engine installs!

[msg]

On the upper hose the radiator I have is 1.5" opening but I need to get the thermostat housing that will fit my edelbrock intake and Im not seeing a 1.5", I see this 1.3" which I guess with a clamp is fine? Or should I be looking for 1.5"?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...0487&jsn=10487


Here is a pic of the upper hose I had before. Is that a straight just bent you think? Or a molded? I threw those out long ago.