Restoring Rusty

[buffydores]

Originally Posted by Gregski

first I hear of it, please go on... share a pic or part number

Sorry for the delay. Basically, most of the LS trucks of the mid 2000s use a fuel module instead of a basic fuel pump. The fuel module has plenty of advantageous over a traditional pump. Here's Phillip's fabulous explanation:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=208

Basically, the jet pump solves the problems of sloshing fuel and maximizing cooling of the fuel pump. You'll get better piece of mind.

Read this also: https://www.vaporworx.com/documentation/fuel-modules/

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LeesTruk

After seeing all this purty fuel supply stuff, I got to thinkin'. Did he convert to a returnless system? Had to go back and look at earlier pics, and I swear I see a pressure regulator on the left fuel rail, meaning you have an early GenIII engine with a supply/return fuel rail. I'm hoping I'm wrong...

You are absolutely spot on, this is an early Gen III motor [ahem] engine (2001) and it still does have a 5/16ths return line which I am keeping.

[Gregski]

I thought that once I install an LS engine in my truck I can put my Innovate wideband DLG-1 AFR gauge on the shelf, and I wouldn't need it no more as the PCM computer manages all that for me now.

I couldn't be more wrong! The O2 sensors on the factory ('99-07) GM trucks which we get our donor Gen III LS engines from use narrow band oxygen sensors, and all these sensors can say is Too Lean or Too Rich depending on the exhaust gases being emitted however they can not tell us how much too lean or how much too rich we are running. Which brings us to...

LS Lesson Learned #5 - In order to tune your LS engine you still need a UEGO (universal exhaust gas oxygen sensor) aka a wideband AFR gauge, word on the street is that the four wire won't do and you must use a fire wire O2 sensor. Now you don't need to run one in your vehicle permanently you can just unscrew one of the factory narrow band sensors and screw your wideband in temporarily as you tune the engine with your laptop.

[Gregski]

time to get my read on: Designing and Tuning High-Performance FUEL INJECTION SYSTEMS

Curious to know if any of you have read this book, and what you thought of it?

Any other recommends?

Update after having read it: If you are to read one book on EFI tuning make it something else, ha ha. Let's just state the facts this book was written prior to 2009, yes a decade after our beloved LS engines came out but a decade has gone by since. Also this book culminates in tuning a '69 Corvette with a 427 big block with an Edelbrock dual plane aluminum intake with port injection and a Megasquirt ECU!

[hatzie]

Gregski
Have you seen this BS about Sacramento County Zoning coming after homeowners for doing work in their garages? Hopefully it's a bad joke or internet baloney.
https://www.powernationtv.com/post/s...our-own-garage

[daddyjeep]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Gregski
Have you seen this BS about Sacramento County Zoning coming after homeowners for doing work in their garages? Hopefully it's a bad joke or internet baloney.
https://www.powernationtv.com/post/s...our-own-garage

I really don't know why people still choose to live in that state.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

I really don't know why people still choose to live in that state.

More & more are moving to TX. I went to look @ a house (that was set-up w/the car guys needs in mind) yesterday morning only to find out they got a cash offer from someone coming from Cali using internet pics/info only.

This is the 3rd time it's happened to me . . …..

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

More & more are moving to TX. I went to look @ a house (that was set-up w/the car guys needs in mind) yesterday morning only to find out they got a cash offer from someone coming from Cali using internet pics/info only.

This is the 3rd time it's happened to me . . …..

yeah I also hear Californians move to a new state like Texas or Colorado and slowly start turning that place into California 👎🏼

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Gregski

yeah I also hear Californians move to a new state like Texas or Colorado and slowly start turning that place into California 👎🏼

And that was probably only some of their their equity in the CA house!

Prices are going nuts out here in North Texas, but still way less than CA. I'm looking to move to a more rural area north of Fort Worth where they are building new 2400-3000 sq ft homes on 0.5-0.7 acre lots for around $150-$160 sq ft, including 3-car garages. 3-4 years ago it would have been $120/ft.

A good thing is the city ordinances allow "outbuildings" such as 2-car garages behind the house.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

I really don't know why people still choose to live in that state.

true, can't wait to retire and move out, next month our son starts college in Oregon! 👍🏼

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Gregski
Have you seen this BS about Sacramento County Zoning coming after homeowners for doing work in their garages? Hopefully it's a bad joke or internet baloney.
https://www.powernationtv.com/post/s...our-own-garage

oh god no I haven't as if I could hate California more, but I already live in an HOA community so that sucks already

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

oh god no I haven't as if I could hate California more, but I already live in an HOA community so that sucks already

HOA is the way a developer keeps making money from the community after they sell off the properties. The administration of these petty dictatorships is fodder for interesting discussions about some of the more vile qualities of human nature.

Originally Posted by Gregski

yeah I also hear Californians move to a new state like Texas or Colorado and slowly start turning that place into California ����

Buisinesse have been fleeing New York State for quite a while. New York City and the Southeastern counties run the entire state legislature and certainly elect the governor. Many gubernatorial candidates don't bother to really campaign outside the capitol district and the NYC area. Flyover country doesn't matter. They just pay the bills.
Unfortunately the Nuke Yorkers have migrated through Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Massachusetts and now they're invading Southern Maine and New Hampshire. Our states are small enough that they can, and do, vote in more than one. They fought tooth and nail against NH voter ID for this very reason. We've removed non-resident "summer people" from town meetings more than once for attempting to vote on town matters... and we're in the North Country. I may move over to the Northeast Kingdom when I retire to get away from them.
The real New Hampshire motto applies to these over-entitled political locusts... Welcome to New Hampshaah... GO HOME!!

Enough politics. Back to trucks...

[LeesTruk]

I know you've created a masterpiece of welded bracketry for your shifter, but thought I'd give you another idea. I also am running a Lokar shifter in my C10. Ran into the same situation as you. Here's what I did just using a tube bender

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LeesTruk

I know you've created a masterpiece of welded bracketry for your shifter, but thought I'd give you another idea. I also am running a Lokar shifter in my C10. Ran into the same situation as you. Here's what I did just using a tube bender

LOL, thanks I had Ray Charles weld that for me with his feet, thank you I appreciate that but you are not running the Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) block box which gets in the way, that's the whole dilemma, it just doesn't work with that important box, even Lokar Tech Support say they only had it setup with it removed

[Gregski]

the reason my LS Swap is taking so long is because I decided to change out my entire exhaust system, I used to run headers, dual 2.5" pipes, Magnaflow mufflers, and dump down right before the rear axle, and it was loud, and I did not like the flimzy Walker pipes you get at Pep Boys, lol

So I decided to piece my new exhaust, all from donor GM vehicles at the local Pick and Pull, and half a dozen short trips later, we got ourselves a complete new (to us) exhaust from the Cylinder Heads to the tailpipe tips

let me take you on this journey... I think you already saw my downpipes, so here are the intermediates (this might be a Trilogy)

[Gregski]

used denatured alcohol from Home Depot (cheap) to clean the grease off of the pipes prior to painting them with engine paint

the step up zig zag follows the frame beautifully

I will not win any awards for those fugly downpipes, they may be getting replaced soon...

used old O2 sensors to keep the paint off of the O2 Sensor bungs - cause I'm a semi Pro

[Gregski]

for my dual tail pipes I used two Suburban passenger side exit over the axle pipes which I cut off with a sawzall at the junkyard just aft of the stock muffler keeping both factory hangers

I wish I took pics of the process of converting one of them to a driver side exit, it was genius I tell you, I removed the silly heat shields off of them first, and I think it took 4 cuts to make one right side be a left side

worth mentioning is that I also bought two Tahoe over the axle tailpipes and tried those first, I liked them better cause they have flatter arches above the axle and their side exits don't swoop down as the Suburban ones do, however I could not run those cause they interfered with the rear leaf spring hangers, I mean they wanted to exit out the side at the exact same spots, ha ha

[Gregski]

'99 Chevy Suburban, yes both sides are passenger side exits, one of them had to be massaged into exiting on the driver side, stay tuned...

[Gregski]

below I show you the Suburban ones with the stock hangers still on, I cut those off and grinded the pipes smooth and used U clamps with the stock hangers in the spots I wanted this allowed me to makes small adjustments unlike the factory which welds them on in a fixed location (amateurs I tell ya, jk)

[Gregski]

In the final pics they aint mounted, they are just resting on the rear axle for the photo shoot, I still need to clean them up and paint them some semi flatness rattle can black

they are simetrical, that's a bad angle, also they are not mounted in this pic hence the clamps on the ground, the pipes are just resting on the rear axle to show you how they came out

they look a bit off in this pic but trust me they is even when properly hung

[Gregski]

Top Tips on making your own steel braided lines hoses fittings etc...

1. use both ends of the newly bought hose first, the manufacturer / seller most likely has given you two nicely cut and tapped off ends so use them, I don't care if you bought 100 feet of line, start your projects from both ends and measure in, hope you follow

2. once you commit to twisting on a hose end, do NOT quit, I don't care if your thumb feels like it's going to fall off, or if dinner is ready, or your baby mama is hollerin' at you... if you stop and remove the end cap the line will be already frayed just enough to prevent you from re capping it, please heed my advice - You Can Do It!

3. get comfortable sit on the floor if you have to, unwind the line in the reverse direction a bit so when you start twisting it in to the female end cap it wants to spin already naturally returning to it's regular unwound position

4. I put my end caps on dry, you can use lubricant if that works for you, some folks use WD40

this was not meant to be all inclusive just some quick advice on putting on hose end fittings as I had to do some and the idears were fresh in my noggin'

[Gregski]

not all hose ends are created equal, I think I got lucky with these FRAGOLA brand ones, I think Summit may rebrand them and sell them as their own Moniker too

[Gregski]

In my earlier posts I mentioned not all hose ends / fittings are created equal, so let me give you an example. As you know I had good luck with the FRAGOLA brand, however in order to save money on 90 degree hose ends (Fragola 90* 229006-BL were $18) I tried the EVIL ENERGY 90* ones (which were only $8 bucks on Amazon). (I guess it's in the name, cause they sure was evil ha ha).

[Gregski]

Make this short, there is just too much meat around the female portion of the Evil Energy fittings making it impossible to fit the steel braided line inside them. You can see that in the stare and compare pic below (Evil on the left, Fragola on the right).

I even proved that point by first trying to fit the line inside the Evil Energy fitting (tried about half a dozen different hoses - ruining them all) and then although the hose was now a bit frayed I tried the Fragola fitting and even with the messed up hose end I still managed to insert that line into the Fragola fitting.

Since I needed 90* hose ends I ended up using the Evil 90s part with the Fragola female hose coupling but I will not be buying the Evil ($7.99) ones any longer and may return the unused ones I got back to Amazon.

I hope this helps some of you out, if you are struggling with your hose ends, try a different brand, it's not you, it's never you, ha ha, blame the part!

[Gregski]

I don't usually remove broken exhaust manifold bolts, but when I do I make sure to drop the engine in the truck first, don't need all that unnecessary easy access.

Say what? Removing the brake booster/master cylinder assembly is not one of your LS Swap steps? Well maybe it should be, ha ha

Man this bolt kicked my donkey!!! even tried drilling it out, no joy, broke a bit inside of it, it was honestly in the hardest location it could have possibly been.