Dug's 1959 Fleetside

[dsraven]

yup, weld an inch, cool, move to another spot, do the same. repeat. stop every few minutes and let the whole thing get back to room temp. when done I used a big body and dolly to hammer along the weld areas and a shrinking disc to get things back into shape. my biggest issue is the roof is egg shaped, not just humped up. it narrows at the front and rear. the inner roof perimeter panel makes it hard to get the edges because you can't get a dolly back there. may have to cut that part out when I get patience to move back to the roof project. right now I am trying to consolidate a few parts into some resembance of a truck and make it move under it's own power. the thing is heavy to roill with only one old fart pushing.

[dsraven]

for depressions like your drain hole a sanding drum from a dremel or wood shop tool store works good. I have a few that I use in my air die grinder. they leave a pretty nice finish on steel as well. cheap and disposable if it distorts or goes all wonky.

[dug224]

Made some healthy progress on the cab on this banner weather day here in Alabama. Laid down a generous coat of primer using my $10 Harbor Freight HVLP gun. I haven't done much HVLP work so I thought this would be a good place to learn plus I did not want run this strange primer through my good gun (non-HVLP). I got the roof bodywork to 80% to 90% before I primed it. Got tired of the process and dust so decided I'd come back to it after all this paint cures. Next step will be to seam seal then spray the Raptor 2 part liner on the bottom of the cab and cab floor.

[67Mal]

Great progress!
I have to ask, what is the "strange green primer"??

[dug224]

Originally Posted by 67Mal

Great progress!
I have to ask, what is the "strange green primer"??

BLP Brand Industrial & Marine 2 part primer. I believe it is actually made here in Mobile, AL. It is used on mechanical stuff in ships. Got a deal that I couldn't pass up so I committed. Real durable, high build and sandable.

[Black_Sheep]

Very nice work!

[dsraven]

I think you answered this before but is the primer also a weather sealer as well? no moisture worries? some "primers" are porous and stuff starts to rust right away,especially the easily sanded ones.

[Kim57]

Cab looks real nice.
Kim

[dug224]

Guys: Thanks for kind words.

Dennis: Paint is said to be a sealer as well. Some of the metal I have collected from my buddy's dumpster is painted with this paint and has been out in my metal pile for years with no signs of rust. Also, all of my other '59 sheet metal has been primed with this for years (Yikes) now and none of it has any surface rust. Keeping in mind, it has all be in my heated and cooled garage with the occasional opening of the garage door. I will have to sand it all before I put on any finish paint.

Watched a few Youtubes on seam sealer and commenced with my seam sealing. While the taped joints look real neat, they were are soon to be covered with Raptor Liner. I decided to go freehand on the seam sealer in the areas under the cab, low firewall and under the fenders. Whether you can see them or not, I'll still do the majority in the cab and all of the upper firewall with taped edges. This stuff sets up really quickly. I have to remove the tape almost immediately or it leaves a small shoulder.

Attachment 1776552

[Black_Sheep]

Dug I went through all 35 pages of your build thread last night. Awesome build, I can't wait to see the finished product.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by Black_Sheep

Dug I went through all 35 pages of your build thread last night. Awesome build, I can't wait to see the finished product.

Me too!!! Thanks! Learning as I go.

[dug224]

Ready to go tomorrow morning. I masked off the parts I don't want Raptor on. I'll spray the inside, lower firewall and bottom of the cab. Decided not to tape off the seam seal on the cab floor since I was too impatient.

[dug224]

Raptor on!! Great product and easy to apply. Pour the 250ml of hardner up to a fill mark on the plastic liner container, shake for 2 minutes and start spraying. This package I used came with four 1 liter containers of liner. I used three of them to cover the areas I masked off. Texture is varied by varying the pressure at the gun between 40 and 80 psi. I chose 60 psi. I'll let it cure in place outside overnight then rotate back onto the trailer and roll into the garage for about week and then proceed with the finished bodywork. Looks like final cab paint in a couple of weeks followed by the cab re-install!!!

[Rods57]

Originally Posted by dug224

Raptor on!! Great product and easy to apply. Pour the 250ml of hardner up to a fill mark on the plastic liner container, shake for 2 minutes and start spraying. This package I used came with four 1 liter containers of liner. I used three of them to cover the areas I masked off. Texture is varied by varying the pressure at the gun between 40 and 80 psi. I chose 60 psi. I'll let it cure in place outside overnight then rotate back onto the trailer and roll into the garage for about week and then proceed with the finished bodywork. Looks like final cab paint in a couple of weeks followed by the cab re-install!!!
Attachment 1777143
Attachment 1777144
Attachment 1777145

Looks great,

[Kim57]

Came out real nice.
Kim

[GreasyLikeaBurger]

I watched a video a while back with a probuilder that was talking about installing a air system with driers for home use, he recommended having the dryer 40 feet(of line) from the compressor. The reason he said was because the compressor heats up the air and you want that much for the temp to drop and condensation to collect. dont know if it is a selling gimmick, but it might be something to consider.

[dsraven]

dryers for industrial use use a chiller unit, like a fridge, to cool the air, which drops out the moisture like condensation quicker. maybe that is why the distance from the head unit, so the air has more chance of cooling anyway before it gets there. hmm, I do have that old fridge in the wife's garage she uses for salad fixings and stuff.....not crazy about salad anyway...could drill a few holes....run a few lines....oh wait, THERE'S BEER IN THERE!...not gonna happen.

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by dsraven

s....oh wait, THERE'S BEER IN THERE!...not gonna happen.

ROFLMAO

[dug224]

Originally Posted by idbeast

ROFLMAO

Me too...( had to google this)

[dug224]

Originally Posted by GreasyLikeaBurger

I watched a video a while back with a probuilder that was talking about installing a air system with driers for home use, he recommended having the dryer 40 feet(of line) from the compressor. The reason he said was because the compressor heats up the air and you want that much for the temp to drop and condensation to collect. dont know if it is a selling gimmick, but it might be something to consider.

Agree. In my case, it is at least 40 feet. So, if any moisture makes it through my mega long hose, I hope drops into my drip leg or gets picked off by the next two filters. Stay tuned.

[FAKKY]

Evapo-rust is pretty neat. There is an ebay version that works just as well and is cheaper.
Bigger parts - electrolysis

When you say seam sealer - explain it to me - never done any paint really .....

like this ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KysXj_PfIAE

[dug224]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Evapo-rust is pretty neat. There is an ebay version that works just as well and is cheaper.
Bigger parts - electrolysis

When you say seam sealer - explain it to me - never done any paint really .....

like this ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KysXj_PfIAE

In my case, If I thought the seam sealer may be seen, I masked it off to give it a crisp look. Took some time but it did look a litter better than the stuff I put on freestyle. The freestyle stuff I did I used the caulk tube and simply smeared it into the panel joints with a rubber gloved finger. I let it cure then painted. No sanding this stuff. Once it all got covered with the Raptor coating, it looked like I knew what I was doing.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

it isn't meant to sand over top. look at any newer vehicle and you will see the seam sealer. in some spots it is best to use a caulking tube and lay down a nice bead, like the silicone around a sink or a tub. you will see it but it will be painted over and will hold the paint unless it is in an area that flexes a lot.

Ok. I havent done mach cab/sheetmetal work apart from some rust patches welded in. On the the seam of thefoor pan to the firewall I just used a good quality roof/flashing sealer - figured it was sheet metal exposed to outdoor - seemed like a good candiate.

Originally Posted by dug224

In my case, If I thought the seam sealer may be seen, I masked it off to give it a crisp look. Took some time but it did look a litter better than the stuff I put on freestyle. The freestyle stuff I did I used the caulk tube and simply smeared it into the panel joints with a rubber gloved finger. I let it cure then painted. No sanding this stuff. Once it all got covered with the Raptor coating, it looked like I knew what I was doing.

Good tips. It looks like a good product - I had heard it used a number of times but just nether bothered to ask. Thanks.

[dsraven]

wow dugg, you have been busy. if you are anything like me it will be an ordeal to move your existing garage over to a new one. hopefully you will have some overlap time so the new shop can be set up and ready to accept your "inventory" (lol) of things you have collected over the years. when I moved last time I had to chuck out a whack of stuff. not a hoarder (lol again) because it was all good stuff, right?
how big will the garage at the new place be, dimensionally, and will it be a tall one or a regular height one maybe? single door or double door? I have a 26x30 with 9'10" ceilings (bylaws suck) and 2 doors, that way when it is -30 outside I don't freeze the whole garage by opening a huge door. it is a bit fun to get into at times due to the alley width and no wiggle room there with the skinny doors. if doing it again I would put the shop into the yard another 4 ft so that would make the turn radius easier and no backing up most of the time, plus easier to negotiate a trailer into if need be. something to think about anyway. if you ever plan on having a hoist a single door works best so the hoist can be moved away from the outside walls. scissor trusses work well for that as well so the ceiling is taller in the middle of the room. I am sure you have that all thought out already though.
does it feel like a millenium has gone by since you had time to work on your old truck? gonna need it pretty soon by the sounds of it. post up a few pics when you get the paint applied, should look awesome.

[FAKKY]

dsraven/dug224 - Im moving in with you guys - be ready

1400sqft of garage !! Thats bigger than my house