FITECH EFI 600 Basic and Command center intall with pics, factory tank

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by steveo3318

I knew of the decel problem but what other issue are you having

The idling. Seems to hang on to a fast idle too long and idle speed goes up and down, sometimes pretty high (set at 800, has gone up to 2000). Now, I haven't idled it for any significant period of time since the road test, so it still has to do a lot of learning.

I hear about everybody else seemingly hooking this thing up and going driving like its a late model car but my experience has been quite different. Dunno if they all have mild mannered engines or what. It's been a bit more work for me.

[steveo3318]

First thing is check for vacuum leaks. Mine done this and it was because I left the brake booster line off. If the truck is idling was to high then coming down slow try the last two parameters. Fitech generally sets these up for automatics.

Here's how to set your idle correctly. On the main screen that displays all parameters go down until you see IAC STEPS. with the truck fully warm you want to see this number between 5 and 10. This is directly affected by the idle screw. Very small turns makes big changes on this end it can be done while running. Once it's set let it idle a few minutes and watch it. Kill it for 30 seconds and restart. Watch it. It's learning. Adjust your idle screw and keep checking IAC STEPS until you are between 5-10. Make sure NO VACUUM ADVANCE IS HOOKED UP WHAT SO EVER. Are you using the unit to control your timing? If not make sure that's set to TACH. This will cause it to float. Make sure your fan 1 is turned off if not using a fan. Try this and report back. Your going through an extremely similar case I had. Just stay calm and it can be tuned out!

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by steveo3318

First thing is check for vacuum leaks. Mine done this and it was because I left the brake booster line off. If the truck is idling was to high then coming down slow try the last two parameters. Fitech generally sets these up for automatics.

Here's how to set your idle correctly. On the main screen that displays all parameters go down until you see IAC STEPS. with the truck fully warm you want to see this number between 5 and 10. This is directly affected by the idle screw. Very small turns makes big changes on this end it can be done while running. Once it's set let it idle a few minutes and watch it. Kill it for 30 seconds and restart. Watch it. It's learning. Adjust your idle screw and keep checking IAC STEPS until you are between 5-10. Make sure NO VACUUM ADVANCE IS HOOKED UP WHAT SO EVER. Are you using the unit to control your timing? If not make sure that's set to TACH. This will cause it to float. Make sure your fan 1 is turned off if not using a fan. Try this and report back. Your going through an extremely similar case I had. Just stay calm and it can be tuned out!

I did a preliminary check for vac leaks but didn't see anything obvious. No power brakes, no vac advance.... Just the PCV return to the manifold. I do have a 6-spd so yeah, if it is set for automatic, that could be the cause of some of the behaviors I am not liking.

That's a pretty in-depth idle setting procedure. The FITech stuff I read said "set your idle with the idle screw, then shut your engine off to allow the ECU to relearn it." Where are you getting all this information from?

I appreciate the help. I'm pretty happy over the huge jump in performance on the first test drive, I just wish there was more information like this easily available from FITech.

Thanks- I'll keep you posted when I can get back on this thing late this week.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by NC_John

Where are you getting all this information from?

I just wish there was more information like this easily available from FITech.

.

I agree.
Fortunately mine was plug and play.
I hope you get yours dialed in.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by NC_John

I did a preliminary check for vac leaks but didn't see anything obvious. No power brakes, no vac advance.... Just the PCV return to the manifold. I do have a 6-spd so yeah, if it is set for automatic, that could be the cause of some of the behaviors I am not liking.

That's a pretty in-depth idle setting procedure. The FITech stuff I read said "set your idle with the idle screw, then shut your engine off to allow the ECU to relearn it." Where are you getting all this information from?

I appreciate the help. I'm pretty happy over the huge jump in performance on the first test drive, I just wish there was more information like this easily available from FITech.

Thanks- I'll keep you posted when I can get back on this thing late this week.

Did you do any more tinkering with your Fitech and idle?

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Did you do any more tinkering with your Fitech and idle?

Actually, yes. I worked on it yesterday. I made the recommended changes but they didn't fix what is going on. Basically, when I run down the road and start decelerating, the rpm seems to hang at 2000 rpm and doesn't want to drop. I have to kick the pedal a couple times to drop it down to the 800 rpm.

I'm going to call Fitech tomorrow and see what they say.

I did get my return line run from the command center back to the tank.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by steveo3318

Try this and report back. Your going through an extremely similar case I had. Just stay calm and it can be tuned out!

I called FiTech today and talked to Cody. The one thing he wanted me to try was to change my cam setting in initial setup. I apparently have more vacuum than what the cpu wants to see for a "4.' He said a 3 or even a 2 might work better for me.

Another thing he told me to do was do a relearn after every change otherwise a change doesn't really affect anything. Doing a relearn starts the cpu from scratch as far as the self-learning and tuning.

We got into the "pro" setup (which is hidden unless you activate it), but we stopped when he found out where my cam setting was. We were going to tweak some of the decay rates on decel.

I'll see how she runs on the way home from work today. The relearn reset itself might help if none of the other changes I did have had no affect without doing it.

[steveo3318]

Keep in mind I am a programmer for Johnson controls. So I understand PID LOOPS and logic blocks a little bit lol. I ask fitech for a parameters definition list for each parameter and they sent me a 16 page definition book. As long as I can understand what the name is of what's being controlled I can safely manipulate it. I did have a brief time on the phone with them as well which was always helpful.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by steveo3318

Keep in mind I am a programmer for Johnson controls. So I understand PID LOOPS and logic blocks a little bit lol. I ask fitech for a parameters definition list for each parameter and they sent me a 16 page definition book. As long as I can understand what the name is of what's being controlled I can safely manipulate it. I did have a brief time on the phone with them as well which was always helpful.

I'm a mech engineer and have got a lot of controls and instrumentation experience as well but am learning my way through this manner of EFI. I got the same 16 pages of info from the website and have been going through it.

I'm fortunate enough to be in NASCAR country too and have been discussing the project and the programming with a fellow Dad at our kids karate class. He's a mechanical engineer in R&D and testing at one of the major engine shops and NASCAR went to fuel injection recently as well.

We've been discussing the ignition control side as well and I wonder if it will be worth the effort playing with once I have my fuel side dialed in. I am already running a Pertronix flame thrower with the level III controls, so its already electronic (the tech support from those guys for advanced stuff is pretty lacking as well).

[steveo3318]

Just remember. Write down the factory setting before you change them and if you really dick it up it can always flash itself back to default settings pretty easy

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by steveo3318

Just remember. Write down the factory setting before you change them and if you really dick it up it can always flash itself back to default settings pretty easy

copy that! as long as you know where you started you can always back up if you get all screwed up.

[NC_John]

Here is something else that occurred to me. What do we do if we are out on a road trip and the unit fails (something in the ECU or command center)? I think we'd be screwed as there is no local support for this stuff anywhere. At least with an LS engine you can limp or get towed to a dealer. If a component fails on this we are stuck.

I was going to sell it but might keep my edelbrock around for just in case. If I do plan a big road trip (out of state for example), and the FItech takes a dump, I can bolt the carb on roadside, bypass the command center since we still have a mech fuel pump, and at least get home.

Might be worrying for nothing but I don't like being on the side of the road helpless without any options.

[swampbog]

Originally Posted by nc_john

here is something else that occurred to me. what do we do if we are out on a road trip and the unit fails (something in the ecu or command center)? I think we'd be screwed as there is no local support for this stuff anywhere. At least with an ls engine you can limp or get towed to a dealer. If a component fails on this we are stuck.

I was going to sell it but might keep my edelbrock around for just in case. If i do plan a big road trip (out of state for example), and the fitech takes a dump, i can bolt the carb on roadside, bypass the command center since we still have a mech fuel pump, and at least get home.

Might be worrying for nothing but i don't like being on the side of the road helpless without any options.

I'm an off roader and this is going in my Jeep. I thought of this right away and I made a call to FiTech to inquire if I can buy just the ECU for a spare. They say I can but as of that time they didn't have a price since every single one was still under warranty. The guy I talked to said he thinks the ECU will be selling for "around a couple hundred". I already plan on buying extra sensors and, as soon as I can get a firm price, a ECU.
If it really does sell for $200 I wouldn't bat an eye at picking one up and tossing it in the spare parts bin, a whole lot smaller than carrying a carb around.
I haven't bought the EFI yet since I'm waiting till warm weather to swap everything over. I have though, modified my gas tank to take an electric pump, bought all the fuel line I need and a couple of fittings.
Come on summer hurry up and get here

[steveo3318]

It's electronic it can and will have a failure in time. I look at it same as ignition. If it fails I am dead. But that's why I have tow coverage on my insurance. Yes we did add another point of failure to our trucks but I feel it's well worth it. I have ran msd6al boxes on everything and never had one fail that was even 9 years old. Only time will tell.

On an extensive trip the carb is not a bad idea. But if your truck is built like mine I feel like it's a new car and trust its dependability as so.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by steveo3318

It's electronic it can and will have a failure in time. I look at it same as ignition. If it fails I am dead. But that's why I have tow coverage on my insurance. Yes we did add another point of failure to our trucks but I feel it's well worth it. I have ran msd6al boxes on everything and never had one fail that was even 9 years old. Only time will tell.

On an extensive trip the carb is not a bad idea. But if your truck is built like mine I feel like it's a new car and trust its dependability as so.

Well, it feels like we are jumping on this bandwagon early.... I just hope it proves to be reliable. And yeah, I have AAA too. I just hate having to use it.

[LostMy65]

Thanks for all your help, steveo3318

[LostMy65]

If we remove the battery cables, does it default back to factory?

[steveo3318]

John are you running an ls and 6 speed or gen1 350. I would like to see the 6 speed and shifter location if you get a chance

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by steveo3318

John are you running an ls and 6 speed or gen1 350. I would like to see the 6 speed and shifter location if you get a chance

I've got my original 350 with the 6 spd. I don't have any pics on my work pc but will get you some tonight.

(by the time I realized I should have gone LS, I had way too much invested in my gen 1.....its neat being numbers matching though. Not worth anymore $$ on a truck but still kinda cool).

[steveo3318]

Awesome. I am really curious to see where the shifter landed as if I blow my saginaw I am going 6 speed

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by steveo3318

Awesome. I am really curious to see where the shifter landed as if I blow my saginaw I am going 6 speed

Found one! I went a lot higher with it than I needed to. Kind of old school cool.

[steveo3318]

Originally Posted by NC_John

Found one! I went a lot higher with it than I needed to. Kind of old school cool.

That's no where near as far back as I thought it would land. Is your motor in the factory v8 mounts and forward bolt holes. I would love. Detailed list of parts needed including which model trans you used. Did you have to do anything to the center hump? And was your truck a starboard to start with

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by steveo3318

That's no where near as far back as I thought it would land. Is your motor in the factory v8 mounts and forward bolt holes. I would love. Detailed list of parts needed including which model trans you used. Did you have to do anything to the center hump? And was your truck a starboard to start with

I am running the CPP tubular motor mounts in the regular 2WD V8 location. Some guys have been able to squeeze it in under the low hump but I could not get the bellhousing up on the block. Maybe because of the CPP mounts?

This was the first try



After trying with no success to get it lined up, I gave up and cut out the tunnel.



I got it to fit but still had to trim beyond the tunnel at the back to get it to fit properly.



Bolted a high hump and did a little sheetmetal work to finish off the additionally cut area.



The benefit of all the additional work in the fitment was that the transmission is mounted very nice and high, completely above the frame rails.



I'll see if I can get some info on parts specifics for you tomorrow.

[steveo3318]

Looks great. Thank you for the pics and info. I basically can split shift my three speed and make it s six speed but to much work. What kind of RPMS are you running around 70. I am running 1900 at 70. With 373 gears. I can run a 100 and still be well under 3000RPMS. done it a few times. It blows my friends minds I can cruise at the 100 mark with them in their 2015 camaros and mustangs

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by steveo3318

Looks great. Thank you for the pics and info. I basically can split shift my three speed and make it s six speed but to much work. What kind of RPMS are you running around 70. I am running 1900 at 70. With 373 gears. I can run a 100 and still be well under 3000RPMS. done it a few times. It blows my friends minds I can cruise at the 100 mark with them in their 2015 camaros and mustangs

I don't recall offhand but am probably lower than that with 4.56's. The six gear lets you run a ridiculously numerically high rear end gear and be a monster at the stop lights but still cruise easy on the interstate. I'm bringing my notes to the office tomorrow and will post some pn's.