1969 Short Wide

[jeh]

Looks good Mike, good idea to get everything done under it before the bed goes on.

[Bennett68C10]

Nice job on the notch Mike, looks good. They definitely are a pain to install.

[raull]

nicely done !!!!

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by screaminchevypickup

Looks good mike!!

Thanks Kyle

Originally Posted by olrosa

Nice job

Thanks Seth

Originally Posted by trkfrk

Mike the notch kit looks great. How do you like the magnaflow's?

Thanks Mark. I really like the sound of them. I don't think I will like them dumped but I really didn't want to fight with routing them out over the axle.
I will probably end up upgrading the rear suspension, brakes and fuel tank at some point that's when I will route them out the back. You can check out how they sound, Here's the original start up video

LINK

.

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10

Nice job on the notch Mike, looks good. They definitely are a pain to install.

Thanks Keith. It was loud and painful.

Originally Posted by raull

nicely done !!!!

Thanks Raul.

[litew8]

Wanna race?

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by litew8

Wanna race?

soon........

[mcbassin]

Got my new master cylinder, proportioning valve and lines installed tonight.

[trkfrk]

That sounds really good. I'm pretty sure I'm going with the same mufflers. I never realized you got it running before bodywork. Smart move... Your going to be driving soon... I can't wait to see the video of it rolling down the road. Keep the pics and videos coming. Your build is inspiring me to get back to work

[Coda O'Dell]

Love this truck. The color, the LS swap, your attention to detail, all just Bad A$$ man!

[jlsanborn]

Looks and sounds great Mike! Closer and closer... What do you have for drop out back?

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Looks and sounds great Mike! Closer and closer... What do you have for drop out back?

Thanks, yep I'm really not too far off from test driving. Just need to get some $$$ for new tires.

I currently have 5" drop in the rear but I installed the notch to go down to 7" eventually.

[Dieselwrencher]

Great work Mike! The notch looks great. On your AC, did the condensor and drier come from VA? I'm trying to figure out what I want to put on my truck as I'd like to have some AC in a vehicle again.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by trkfrk

That sounds really good. I'm pretty sure I'm going with the same mufflers. I never realized you got it running before bodywork. Smart move... Your going to be driving soon... I can't wait to see the video of it rolling down the road. Keep the pics and videos coming. Your build is inspiring me to get back to work

Thanks Mark, I did a bunch of research before I bought the Magnaflows. They were the best choice for the money in my opinion. Not too loud but stil sound good.

Originally Posted by Coda O'Dell

Love this truck. The color, the LS swap, your attention to detail, all just Bad A$$ man!

Thanks Coda for the compliments and for checking out my build. Sorry it's so long but when you are as slow as me it just goes on forever. The end is truly in sight now.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Great work Mike! The notch looks great. On your AC, did the condensor and drier come from VA? I'm trying to figure out what I want to put on my truck as I'd like to have some AC in a vehicle again.

Thanks Ryan. Yes I have a Vintage Air sure fit kit. It is pretty old and cable controlled. You can get a much better setup if you buy the modern one. I would recommend site venders Kyle and Sarah at laidbackrecreations. They have great prices and customer service. I just ordered some parts for my setup from them.

[SeTx67]

Wow you've been busy lately. I haven't had much time to keep up with some the build threads lately. Seeing all those wires makes me think that the money I spent on mine was well worth it . I would've spent half as much on Advil trying to figure it all out on my own.

I wonder if the trailblazer ac compressor will work with the truck bracket? The lines for it run parallel to the frame versus perpendicular like a lot of the other compressor. May save some guys the hassle of notching the frame.

As usual everything looks great and your attention to detail is amazing. I'm looking forward to seeing more progress pics

[Dean'smeanmachine]

looking good , getting close!

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by SeTx67

Wow you've been busy lately. I haven't had much time to keep up with some the build threads lately. Seeing all those wires makes me think that the money I spent on mine was well worth it . I would've spent half as much on Advil trying to figure it all out on my own.

I wonder if the trailblazer ac compressor will work with the truck bracket? The lines for it run parallel to the frame versus perpendicular like a lot of the other compressor. May save some guys the hassle of notching the frame.

As usual everything looks great and your attention to detail is amazing. I'm looking forward to seeing more progress pics

Thanks for the complements. The wiring is pretty much done as of now. Just a few loose ends to tie up.
I'm not sure about the mounting of the trailblazer compressor? It would be cool if there was a set of bolt in fittings or hoses for our trucks.

Originally Posted by Dean'smeanmachine

looking good , getting close!

Thanks Dean.

[mcbassin]

My son and I have been pretty busy the last week or so. We got the brakes bled yesterday. I got a nice steering shaft from member Cash3481 (thanks Mike), got it restored and ready to install. Basically, tomorrow it could be driven for a test drive if I had tires and wheels.
Also, Landen got the engine and cluster wiring all finished up. The cluster has an electronic speedo upgrade idea from member ls1nova71 HERE, the sheet metal pieces were fabbed by member 67c10rustbuket (Thanks Dan).
We tested the cluster tonight

Made a tach cluster out of a non tach cluster:



Made a fixture to roll the tach opening lip:


Rolled it on the manual mill:













Pulled the lamp sockets at the local Pull a part:

[boynton]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

My son and I have been pretty busy the last week or so. We got the brakes bled yesterday. I got a nice steering shaft from member Cash3481 (thanks Mike), got it restored and ready to install. Basically, tomorrow it could be driven for a test drive if I had tires and wheels.
Also, Landen got the engine and cluster wiring all finished up. The cluster has an electronic speedo upgrade idea from member ls1nova71 HERE, the sheet metal pieces were fabbed by member 67c10rustbuket (Thanks Dan).
We tested the cluster tonight

Made a tach cluster out of a non tach cluster:



Made a fixture to roll the tach opening lip:


Rolled it on the manual mill:













Pulled the lamp sockets at the local Pull a part:

I looked through several pages of your thread but didn't see what you did to get the oem tach to work. was this another gauge swap? also do you remember what feed you are getting from the pcm? 4cyl mode is what I am running. trying to get a stock cluster to work like yours

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by boynton

I looked through several pages of your thread but didn't see what you did to get the oem tach to work. was this another gauge swap? also do you remember what feed you are getting from the pcm? 4cyl mode is what I am running. trying to get a stock cluster to work like yours

The Tach is a stock style aftermarket unit from Classic parts in Kansas City. I need to check with my son but I think we connected it to the white wire Pin #10 on the Green connector. (Engine speed signal). I don't think we ran it 4 cyl. mode. I will check with him and get back with you.

[EightiesOnly]

Originally Posted by boynton

I looked through several pages of your thread but didn't see what you did to get the oem tach to work. was this another gauge swap? also do you remember what feed you are getting from the pcm? 4cyl mode is what I am running. trying to get a stock cluster to work like yours

If you have connected the Tach and its not working at all (same thing happened to me) you should try connecting a pull-up resistor from the tach signal to +12V key on. I don't remember what tach output that our computer was programmed to, but I believe it can be set by the programmer (lt1swap.com in our case).

See the link below for a diagram:

http://lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm

[boynton]

Originally Posted by EightiesOnly

If you have connected the Tach and its not working at all (same thing happened to me) you should try connecting a pull-up resistor from the tach signal to +12V key on. I don't remember what tach output that our computer was programmed to, but I believe it can be set by the programmer (lt1swap.com in our case).

See the link below for a diagram:

http://lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm

Thanks for the link. I put in the resister but it seems to be reading a little low. How accurate is your gauge? mine reads fine at 100-1,000 RPM but seems to be falling behind after that. I am assuming this is the difference between the pcm being programmed at 4cyl mode vs. 8cyl mode?

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Bring it on, we got a bbq place just down the road with a 65 Impala for a bar and a Comp dragster hanging from the ceiling. First round's on me!

I'm always down for some BBQ.

Originally Posted by boynton

Thanks for the link. I put in the resister but it seems to be reading a little low. How accurate is your gauge? mine reads fine at 100-1,000 RPM but seems to be falling behind after that. I am assuming this is the difference between the pcm being programmed at 4cyl mode vs. 8cyl mode?

Mine seems pretty accurate. We have a Bluetooth scan tool code reader that gives live engine data. The tach on mine stays pretty close to it.

[EightiesOnly]

Originally Posted by boynton

Thanks for the link. I put in the resister but it seems to be reading a little low. How accurate is your gauge? mine reads fine at 100-1,000 RPM but seems to be falling behind after that. I am assuming this is the difference between the pcm being programmed at 4cyl mode vs. 8cyl mode?

I just browsed through lt1swap.com and he does in fact set the tach signal to 8 cylinder mode when he does a reflash. This means that mcbassin's tach signal IS in fact 8 cylinder mode.

[Zoomin]

Awesome job guys! Soooo close now.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Zoomin

Awesome job guys! Soooo close now.

Thanks Steve, I'm thinking things will fall into place pretty quick now the wiring is under control.......well you know me slow as molasses