Rocker replacement 101 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Rokcrln · 12-22-2007, 01:38 PM

Then I like to cut inbetween the sopt welds because a piece of metal with ten spot welds is very stronge but one piece with one spot weld will almost fall off with alittle help

More cutting but alot less beating or driling. I have used spot weld removers before and I still do for some jobs but this is not one of them. So after you sluce between the welds just take a prybar and remove the middle sections. Then a quick hit with the grinder and the spot weld go away! Next on the threshold sill I mard out the sopt welds and cut between them but not all the way. Make sure you do not just chop at this because you will cut right thru the floor and cause more work. In this case my inner rocker was fine so I wanted to save it. Once you cut most of the way thru this area take a pair of pliars and bend the carpet lip back. You will be surprised how easy this will come loose. I have had several original rockers that were not even welded alont this top edge, talk about easy!
Then take a grinder and remove any bump left over from a spot weld and clean the area up with a wire wheel or grinding disk before you paint it with a rust proof spray.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Rokcrln · 12-22-2007, 01:57 PM

I had some epoxy primer left over from a job so I just used that to protect the inner rocker. I then test fit the new rocker by clamping it to the rear B pillar first, then the front A pillar and last to the bottom of the pinch weld. This rocker fit great!!! I have not had one fit this well right out of the box yet. These came from ECE and I have not checked the drivers side yet but I have found that some fit great, some fit ok and some need alot of work to get to fit at all. I fisrt check the fit along the B pillar for how it lines up with the flat part of the jamb and down the door opening. Then I look how the lower rocker fits with the cab corner. You may find you have to tweak things to get it all to line up how you want it. Then I look at the A post area to see how things line up. You want to look at the inner most lip were the door weather stripping goes and the threshold are that rolls up the A post. The little corner that is betwen the threshold roll and the weather strip area never lines up right and will need some help that I will show later. Next you want to see how well the front of the rocker lines up were it folds around the A post. Next you need to check how it fits along the bottom of the rocker. Clamp it in place and clim under and take a good look at things. You should have about an 1/8" or less gap between the bottom edge of the rocker and the bottom of the inner rocker. Then the gap between the threshold and the cab floor should be even and about 3/8" but most that I have done are not even and may be from 1/4" to 1/2" and this is ok because your carpet strip will cover. Anything over 1/2" and you run into problems becasue you will not have enough overlap between the inner edge of the threshold and the inner rocker top edge to get a plug weld. I will show this later.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Rokcrln · 12-22-2007, 02:01 PM

Now it is time for the real rust problems on this truck. I will give an over view of replacing the Kick panel, home made floor patch (minimal on this truck) and the A pillar.
Here are a few shots of the rust I found and the section I cut off for starters. I will finish this on Friday and up date the post as I go.

Kevin
LFD inc.

Rokcrln · 12-22-2007, 02:03 PM

Ok so now you need to remove the old bolts but try not to damage the holes as they will help to re-build. Then take the front fender mount and transfer the holes to the new A-Pillar patch. Then bolt the new patch inplace and mark the two remaining holes and mark the top of the A-pillar patch onto the old A-pillar. This mark will help out later. Then remove the A-pillar, drill the last holes then set this piece aside for now.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Rokcrln · 12-22-2007, 02:04 PM

Now make sure you remove all the old pieces from the lower A-pillar. Once this is done decide how far up you will need to replace the kick panel (if needed). Try and keep the kick panel patch lower than the A-pillar patch if you can. This will will make it easier for doing the kick panel patch. Once you have marked the kick panel were it needs to be cut go ahead and remove that section. Make sure you get all the old sealer removed and clean up the floor area as best as you can. Then measure from the floor up to were the cut line is for the kick panel. Now take the measurement and mark the kick panel about 1/2" to 3/4" higher then the cut. This will make the kick panel fit easier so you can scribe it for a perfect fit. Clamp in the patch piece for your kick panel and from the out side take a scribe and mark the cut line onto the patch. See now why we want the patch panel cut lower than the A-pillar

. Also scribe the top two holes from the floor brace into the kick panel, you will need to do this from under the cab. Once this is done cut the kick panel to fit and drill the holes. Then bolt it in for a test fit.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Rokcrln · 12-22-2007, 02:04 PM

Now set the kick panel patch aside with the A-pillar patch. Time to fix up that rusted floor ( if needed). Use a 36grit disk (or simular) to clean up the floor. What you are looking for is noice shinny metal out past that brown rust. Mark a patch about 1-2" beyond the rust stains for your floor patch. Do the same for the side of the floor if yours is as bad as mine was. For the side patch take a piece of sheet metal and clamp it to the cab then scribe the patch and cut it out with your tin snips. Don't forget to mark and drill out the four floor suport holes while you are at it. Once that is done bolt it in for a test fit. If it fit good leave it bolted in and start on the main floor patch.

For this one use a piece of craft paper for your templet. Cut it over sized and hold it in place with one hand and mark the outer edge that over hangs the side patch with your other hand. Once that is marked and cut see how it fits then mark the other side of the patch that sits on the floor. Once you are happy with the paper patch transfer that to a piece of sheet metal and cut it out. If your patch extends up the curve of the floor board like mine did you should be able to just bend it with your hands to fit. Try and get it so it fits with out having to push it into place. Once that is done it is time to use yout metal floor patch to mark the floor for cutting.

Kevin
LFD inc.

Rokcrln · 12-22-2007, 02:05 PM

I found that a good way to scrib the line on shinny metal is to use a marker and over mark your area then scribe the lines. It will show up better this way. Then cut out the bad area and test fit your patch while at the same time mark the location of the floor suports onto the new patch so you can drill a few hole for plug welding. If all the gaps look good and the outer edge lines up good with the side patch then it is time to start tack welding it all in place. Once it is tacked in place start welding it up but skip around so you done warp the floor. Then grind it down and coat it with primmer. Then bolt in the kick panel and get ready for more welding and grinding

Kevin
LFD Inc.

12-22-2007, 01:38 PM	#1
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: Rocker replacement 101 Then I like to cut inbetween the sopt welds because a piece of metal with ten spot welds is very stronge but one piece with one spot weld will almost fall off with alittle help More cutting but alot less beating or driling. I have used spot weld removers before and I still do for some jobs but this is not one of them. So after you sluce between the welds just take a prybar and remove the middle sections. Then a quick hit with the grinder and the spot weld go away! Next on the threshold sill I mard out the sopt welds and cut between them but not all the way. Make sure you do not just chop at this because you will cut right thru the floor and cause more work. In this case my inner rocker was fine so I wanted to save it. Once you cut most of the way thru this area take a pair of pliars and bend the carpet lip back. You will be surprised how easy this will come loose. I have had several original rockers that were not even welded alont this top edge, talk about easy! Then take a grinder and remove any bump left over from a spot weld and clean the area up with a wire wheel or grinding disk before you paint it with a rust proof spray. Kevin LFD Inc. Attached Images

12-22-2007, 01:57 PM	#2
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: Rocker replacement 101 I had some epoxy primer left over from a job so I just used that to protect the inner rocker. I then test fit the new rocker by clamping it to the rear B pillar first, then the front A pillar and last to the bottom of the pinch weld. This rocker fit great!!! I have not had one fit this well right out of the box yet. These came from ECE and I have not checked the drivers side yet but I have found that some fit great, some fit ok and some need alot of work to get to fit at all. I fisrt check the fit along the B pillar for how it lines up with the flat part of the jamb and down the door opening. Then I look how the lower rocker fits with the cab corner. You may find you have to tweak things to get it all to line up how you want it. Then I look at the A post area to see how things line up. You want to look at the inner most lip were the door weather stripping goes and the threshold are that rolls up the A post. The little corner that is betwen the threshold roll and the weather strip area never lines up right and will need some help that I will show later. Next you want to see how well the front of the rocker lines up were it folds around the A post. Next you need to check how it fits along the bottom of the rocker. Clamp it in place and clim under and take a good look at things. You should have about an 1/8" or less gap between the bottom edge of the rocker and the bottom of the inner rocker. Then the gap between the threshold and the cab floor should be even and about 3/8" but most that I have done are not even and may be from 1/4" to 1/2" and this is ok because your carpet strip will cover. Anything over 1/2" and you run into problems becasue you will not have enough overlap between the inner edge of the threshold and the inner rocker top edge to get a plug weld. I will show this later. Kevin LFD Inc. Attached Images

12-22-2007, 02:01 PM	#3
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: Rocker replacement 101 Now it is time for the real rust problems on this truck. I will give an over view of replacing the Kick panel, home made floor patch (minimal on this truck) and the A pillar. Here are a few shots of the rust I found and the section I cut off for starters. I will finish this on Friday and up date the post as I go. Kevin LFD inc. Attached Images

12-22-2007, 02:03 PM	#4
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: Rocker replacement 101 Ok so now you need to remove the old bolts but try not to damage the holes as they will help to re-build. Then take the front fender mount and transfer the holes to the new A-Pillar patch. Then bolt the new patch inplace and mark the two remaining holes and mark the top of the A-pillar patch onto the old A-pillar. This mark will help out later. Then remove the A-pillar, drill the last holes then set this piece aside for now. Kevin LFD Inc. Attached Images Last edited by Rokcrln; 12-23-2007 at 05:55 PM.

12-22-2007, 02:04 PM	#5
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: Rocker replacement 101 Now make sure you remove all the old pieces from the lower A-pillar. Once this is done decide how far up you will need to replace the kick panel (if needed). Try and keep the kick panel patch lower than the A-pillar patch if you can. This will will make it easier for doing the kick panel patch. Once you have marked the kick panel were it needs to be cut go ahead and remove that section. Make sure you get all the old sealer removed and clean up the floor area as best as you can. Then measure from the floor up to were the cut line is for the kick panel. Now take the measurement and mark the kick panel about 1/2" to 3/4" higher then the cut. This will make the kick panel fit easier so you can scribe it for a perfect fit. Clamp in the patch piece for your kick panel and from the out side take a scribe and mark the cut line onto the patch. See now why we want the patch panel cut lower than the A-pillar. Also scribe the top two holes from the floor brace into the kick panel, you will need to do this from under the cab. Once this is done cut the kick panel to fit and drill the holes. Then bolt it in for a test fit. Kevin LFD Inc. Attached Images Last edited by Rokcrln; 12-23-2007 at 06:06 PM.

12-22-2007, 02:04 PM	#6
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: Rocker replacement 101 Now set the kick panel patch aside with the A-pillar patch. Time to fix up that rusted floor ( if needed). Use a 36grit disk (or simular) to clean up the floor. What you are looking for is noice shinny metal out past that brown rust. Mark a patch about 1-2" beyond the rust stains for your floor patch. Do the same for the side of the floor if yours is as bad as mine was. For the side patch take a piece of sheet metal and clamp it to the cab then scribe the patch and cut it out with your tin snips. Don't forget to mark and drill out the four floor suport holes while you are at it. Once that is done bolt it in for a test fit. If it fit good leave it bolted in and start on the main floor patch. For this one use a piece of craft paper for your templet. Cut it over sized and hold it in place with one hand and mark the outer edge that over hangs the side patch with your other hand. Once that is marked and cut see how it fits then mark the other side of the patch that sits on the floor. Once you are happy with the paper patch transfer that to a piece of sheet metal and cut it out. If your patch extends up the curve of the floor board like mine did you should be able to just bend it with your hands to fit. Try and get it so it fits with out having to push it into place. Once that is done it is time to use yout metal floor patch to mark the floor for cutting. Kevin LFD inc. Attached Images Last edited by Rokcrln; 12-23-2007 at 06:38 PM.

12-22-2007, 02:05 PM	#7
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: Rocker replacement 101 I found that a good way to scrib the line on shinny metal is to use a marker and over mark your area then scribe the lines. It will show up better this way. Then cut out the bad area and test fit your patch while at the same time mark the location of the floor suports onto the new patch so you can drill a few hole for plug welding. If all the gaps look good and the outer edge lines up good with the side patch then it is time to start tack welding it all in place. Once it is tacked in place start welding it up but skip around so you done warp the floor. Then grind it down and coat it with primmer. Then bolt in the kick panel and get ready for more welding and grinding Kevin LFD Inc. Attached Images Last edited by Rokcrln; 12-23-2007 at 06:52 PM.



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