Truck totally Dead - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Fox Delta · 11-05-2009, 05:09 PM

I was working on the carb which led to lots of starting... had the truck running good for about 5 minutes when it died - when I tried to crank it nothing happened - Literally!! I have no brake lights, head lights, nothing electrical! Battery has juice... Would the starter solenoid dying cause the entire truck to lose power?? I am totally confused - Help!

**cdowns** · 11-05-2009, 05:42 PM

cleaning battery terminals and ground wire connection first step

Fox Delta · 11-05-2009, 06:08 PM

battery connections are clean and tight, as are the connections to the starter. Pulled all fuses and they checked out good. I replaced the relay (I think it is called the horn relay) that is located behind the driver side headlight. I replaced it because there (used to be) a loose wire that would cause the entire truck to die while driving. So now I am totally lost... not sure what would make every electrical item go dead.

**fixit-p** · 11-05-2009, 07:11 PM

What year truck? There is usually a wire coming off the battery positive terminal or battery buss connection to feed the cab with power most of these power wires have a fusible link which may be burned out w/o knowing exactly what you have and how it's wired it's tough to pin point for you, but start with that..... your solenoid is not the culprit

**cdowns** · 11-05-2009, 07:20 PM

that thing ou replaced is a voltage regulator not a horn relay// if your talking 67-72 horn relay is inside the cab near the floor by steerin column

Fox Delta · 11-05-2009, 07:25 PM

sorry.. it is a 63 C10 with a 350 and HEI. I know there are two "groups" of wires that runs in to the cab. One is on the driver side and the other is about middle of the truck - just to the passenger side of the distributor. Which set do I need to check?

**fixit-p** · 11-05-2009, 07:33 PM

Start at the battery there should be a wire which goes from the positive post to the alt and then to the cab

Fox Delta · 11-05-2009, 07:39 PM

ahh ok - thanks!

VetteVet · 11-05-2009, 09:35 PM

Here's your circuit diagram, it's for a 64 but should be the same.

UltraBlue71 · 11-05-2009, 11:06 PM

If I had to stab in the dark, it sounds like a fried fusible link....

Fox Delta · 11-07-2009, 01:45 AM

Vettevet - thank you for the diagram! I have looked over the wiring and it looks fine (well as fine as wiring this old can).

So if I fried a fusible link would it be obvious? Basically the insulation on the wire would be brittle and charred correct? Just trying to make sure that I am looking for the right thing.

VetteVet · 11-07-2009, 01:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fox Delta

Vettevet - thank you for the diagram! I have looked over the wiring and it looks fine (well as fine as wiring this old can).

So if I fried a fusible link would it be obvious? Basically the insulation on the wire would be brittle and charred correct? Just trying to make sure that I am looking for the right thing.

To be quite honest with you I do not know if the pre 67 trucks had fusible links in the harness from the battery. I do not see the symbol in the 64 diagram that I posted. This might account for your difficulty in seeing burnt insulation. If one is included then it would be just off the positive battery post as you can see in the later model below.

**fixit-p** · 11-07-2009, 02:12 AM

Fox delta do you have a test light? If yes you can chase the red wire in VetteVet's first diagram the one which runs from the batt positive post to the horn relay(GM used to use the horn relay as a buss connection). All the red wires at the relay should have full battery power one ea. for the reg, alt and the cab. Check all termination points and splices chase the wire until you loose power into the cab if you have to.

UltraBlue71 · 11-07-2009, 12:47 PM

Fox-Delta
I am sorry I thought it was a 67-72,I'll keep my big nose out of this....

stellar · 11-10-2009, 12:13 PM

Often a fusible link will go bad without any visible signs. They will open inside the insulation without burning thru. Sometimes even when testing with a volt meter or ohm meter it will test good because the break inside the insulation is very close and will often still be touching. The best way to test is with amperage or to pull on the wire. If the wire stretches like a rubber band when pulled it is bad.

11-05-2009, 05:09 PM	#1
Fox Delta Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Rocklin, CA Posts: 13	Truck totally Dead I was working on the carb which led to lots of starting... had the truck running good for about 5 minutes when it died - when I tried to crank it nothing happened - Literally!! I have no brake lights, head lights, nothing electrical! Battery has juice... Would the starter solenoid dying cause the entire truck to lose power?? I am totally confused - Help!

11-05-2009, 05:42 PM	#2
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 13,059	Re: Truck totally Dead cleaning battery terminals and ground wire connection first step __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane 1960 F100 hot rod project awaiting install of 429cobrajet 1972swb frame project while i try to find a solid nonrusted affordable C10 MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

11-05-2009, 06:08 PM	#3
Fox Delta Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Rocklin, CA Posts: 13	Re: Truck totally Dead battery connections are clean and tight, as are the connections to the starter. Pulled all fuses and they checked out good. I replaced the relay (I think it is called the horn relay) that is located behind the driver side headlight. I replaced it because there (used to be) a loose wire that would cause the entire truck to die while driving. So now I am totally lost... not sure what would make every electrical item go dead. Last edited by Fox Delta; 11-05-2009 at 06:11 PM.

11-05-2009, 07:11 PM	#4
fixit-p Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Yay Area CA Posts: 759	Re: Truck totally Dead What year truck? There is usually a wire coming off the battery positive terminal or battery buss connection to feed the cab with power most of these power wires have a fusible link which may be burned out w/o knowing exactly what you have and how it's wired it's tough to pin point for you, but start with that..... your solenoid is not the culprit __________________ 1965 GMC shortwide big window 1969 Chevy C20 long (for now) 1988 Toy 4x4 (My Beater) 1994 1500 4x4 Burb 1995 Toy 4 Runner 3.Slow (Wife's Beater) 2004 Taco 4x4 3.Fast Last edited by fixit-p; 11-05-2009 at 07:13 PM.

11-05-2009, 07:20 PM	#5
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 13,059	Re: Truck totally Dead that thing ou replaced is a voltage regulator not a horn relay// if your talking 67-72 horn relay is inside the cab near the floor by steerin column __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane 1960 F100 hot rod project awaiting install of 429cobrajet 1972swb frame project while i try to find a solid nonrusted affordable C10 MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY Last edited by cdowns; 11-05-2009 at 07:22 PM.

11-05-2009, 07:25 PM	#6
Fox Delta Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Rocklin, CA Posts: 13	Re: Truck totally Dead sorry.. it is a 63 C10 with a 350 and HEI. I know there are two "groups" of wires that runs in to the cab. One is on the driver side and the other is about middle of the truck - just to the passenger side of the distributor. Which set do I need to check?

11-05-2009, 07:33 PM	#7
fixit-p Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Yay Area CA Posts: 759	Re: Truck totally Dead Start at the battery there should be a wire which goes from the positive post to the alt and then to the cab __________________ 1965 GMC shortwide big window 1969 Chevy C20 long (for now) 1988 Toy 4x4 (My Beater) 1994 1500 4x4 Burb 1995 Toy 4 Runner 3.Slow (Wife's Beater) 2004 Taco 4x4 3.Fast

11-05-2009, 07:39 PM	#8
Fox Delta Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Rocklin, CA Posts: 13	Re: Truck totally Dead ahh ok - thanks!

11-05-2009, 09:35 PM	#9
VetteVet Msgt USAF Ret Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan Posts: 3,177	Re: Truck totally Dead Here's your circuit diagram, it's for a 64 but should be the same. Attached Images __________________ VetteVet metallic green 67 stepside 74 corvette convertible 1965 Harley sportster 1995 Harley wide glide Growing old is hell, but it beats the alternative.

11-05-2009, 11:06 PM	#10
UltraBlue71 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Mountain Home ID Posts: 449	Re: Truck totally Dead If I had to stab in the dark, it sounds like a fried fusible link.... __________________ "You can put lipstick on a pig, sure it's pretty pig, but it's still just a PIG... 71 LWB

11-07-2009, 01:45 AM	#11
Fox Delta Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Rocklin, CA Posts: 13	Re: Truck totally Dead Vettevet - thank you for the diagram! I have looked over the wiring and it looks fine (well as fine as wiring this old can). So if I fried a fusible link would it be obvious? Basically the insulation on the wire would be brittle and charred correct? Just trying to make sure that I am looking for the right thing.

11-07-2009, 02:12 AM	#13
fixit-p Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Yay Area CA Posts: 759	Re: Truck totally Dead Fox delta do you have a test light? If yes you can chase the red wire in VetteVet's first diagram the one which runs from the batt positive post to the horn relay(GM used to use the horn relay as a buss connection). All the red wires at the relay should have full battery power one ea. for the reg, alt and the cab. Check all termination points and splices chase the wire until you loose power into the cab if you have to. __________________ 1965 GMC shortwide big window 1969 Chevy C20 long (for now) 1988 Toy 4x4 (My Beater) 1994 1500 4x4 Burb 1995 Toy 4 Runner 3.Slow (Wife's Beater) 2004 Taco 4x4 3.Fast

11-07-2009, 12:47 PM	#14
UltraBlue71 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Mountain Home ID Posts: 449	Re: Truck totally Dead Fox-Delta I am sorry I thought it was a 67-72,I'll keep my big nose out of this.... __________________ "You can put lipstick on a pig, sure it's pretty pig, but it's still just a PIG... 71 LWB

11-10-2009, 12:13 PM	#15
stellar Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Pittsburgh Pa. Posts: 59	Re: Truck totally Dead Often a fusible link will go bad without any visible signs. They will open inside the insulation without burning thru. Sometimes even when testing with a volt meter or ohm meter it will test good because the break inside the insulation is very close and will often still be touching. The best way to test is with amperage or to pull on the wire. If the wire stretches like a rubber band when pulled it is bad.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.