How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**lolife99** · 03-30-2011, 12:41 AM

Great work as usual.
I bet those tranny lines were fun,...

propanemudtruck · 03-30-2011, 12:00 PM

Those are great pics of the bed, I never realized how simple they are. Should've known I guess. Oh and good job on the shroud too!

ChuckDriver · 03-30-2011, 10:04 PM

Nice work, love the bed wood!!

gringoloco · 03-30-2011, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lolife99

Great work as usual.
I bet those tranny lines were fun,...

Yeah, 'fun' is definitely the word

Quote:

Originally Posted by propanemudtruck

Those are great pics of the bed, I never realized how simple they are. Should've known I guess. Oh and good job on the shroud too!

Thanks! Waaaaay too much time in that silly thing...

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

Nice work, love the bed wood!!

Thanks, hope to be installing it soon

gringoloco · 03-30-2011, 11:21 PM

Little bit more progress today... Started by bleeding the brakes to complete yesterday's booster/MC replacement. Wrapped up the last of that messy-ness and moved on to the interior, a MUCH cleaner place to work

Below is what I started with and basically set about gutting the interior from there

Upon pulling the carpet, I was pleasantly surprised to find only surface rust and NO rot whatsoever. Plenty of holes from POs drilling for various things, though

gringoloco · 03-30-2011, 11:29 PM

Next, I set about taking care of what little rust I did find lurking. I started by using the shop-vac to remove all of the loose dirt and then attacked it with CLR. This stuff rocks!

It took care of most of the rust and even got back to bare metal in a few places. Whatever didn't come up with the CLR was wire brushed and hit with rust converter and then coated in rust encapsulator. This will hopefully keep it away, for a while at least...

gringoloco · 03-30-2011, 11:48 PM

I also tore into the dash, spending a bunch of time tearing it apart, removing the heater components in preparation for the Classic Auto Air kit, and re-wiring quite a bit as I went through it. At least with the seat out, I was fairly comfortable lying on my back working under the dash

While I was in there, I replaced the dash cluster circuit. I did it with the cluster in place, as with the recently 'shortened' column, it is impossible to remove the cluster without dropping the column, which I didn't feel like doing two days in a row. Actually wasn't to bad to do the swap behind the dash, just a little tight, but nice to have the other components removed. Check out the old circuit- amazing I hadn't started a fire

Also got around to mocking up the new floor covering (sorry, no pic- but, soon) and the new shifter, as I have always hated the silly Mega-Shifter. This is NOT a '70s Camaro- not that there's anything wrong with that, I just don't prefer the slot mags and air shocks look. If you look back on the earlier pics you'll also see a barefoot pedal to go with the '90s stepside bed- this truck was a true 'custom'- just needed a 'Heartbeat' logo somewhere

The Lokar is well made and the perfect height, but will require some more head scratching before it is permanently installed- clearances are tight with the 700r4 in the tunnel...

5150.4.67 · 03-30-2011, 11:30 PM

Gringo,
Where did you mount the prop valve? I'm guessing on the cross member 73 and later style?

03-30-2011, 12:41 AM	#1
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,686	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Great work as usual. I bet those tranny lines were fun,... __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

03-30-2011, 12:00 PM	#2
propanemudtruck Local Redneck Authority Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Grand Rapids, MI Posts: 584	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Those are great pics of the bed, I never realized how simple they are. Should've known I guess. Oh and good job on the shroud too! __________________ -Kevin four on the floor feel the beat in your soul movin to the rhythym pumpin til ya cant take no more dance if you want to do what you came to you cant ignore the feeling of that four on the floor

03-30-2011, 10:04 PM	#3
ChuckDriver A320 Pilot/USAF Retired Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Charleston, SC Posts: 2,622	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Nice work, love the bed wood!! __________________ JJ My 1957 build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=334552 http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22037 Instagram - Chuckdriver57

03-30-2011, 11:21 PM	#5
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,920	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Little bit more progress today... Started by bleeding the brakes to complete yesterday's booster/MC replacement. Wrapped up the last of that messy-ness and moved on to the interior, a MUCH cleaner place to work Below is what I started with and basically set about gutting the interior from there Upon pulling the carpet, I was pleasantly surprised to find only surface rust and NO rot whatsoever. Plenty of holes from POs drilling for various things, though Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

03-30-2011, 11:29 PM	#6
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,920	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Next, I set about taking care of what little rust I did find lurking. I started by using the shop-vac to remove all of the loose dirt and then attacked it with CLR. This stuff rocks! It took care of most of the rust and even got back to bare metal in a few places. Whatever didn't come up with the CLR was wire brushed and hit with rust converter and then coated in rust encapsulator. This will hopefully keep it away, for a while at least... Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

03-30-2011, 11:48 PM	#7
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,920	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 I also tore into the dash, spending a bunch of time tearing it apart, removing the heater components in preparation for the Classic Auto Air kit, and re-wiring quite a bit as I went through it. At least with the seat out, I was fairly comfortable lying on my back working under the dash While I was in there, I replaced the dash cluster circuit. I did it with the cluster in place, as with the recently 'shortened' column, it is impossible to remove the cluster without dropping the column, which I didn't feel like doing two days in a row. Actually wasn't to bad to do the swap behind the dash, just a little tight, but nice to have the other components removed. Check out the old circuit- amazing I hadn't started a fire Also got around to mocking up the new floor covering (sorry, no pic- but, soon) and the new shifter, as I have always hated the silly Mega-Shifter. This is NOT a '70s Camaro- not that there's anything wrong with that, I just don't prefer the slot mags and air shocks look. If you look back on the earlier pics you'll also see a barefoot pedal to go with the '90s stepside bed- this truck was a true 'custom'- just needed a 'Heartbeat' logo somewhere The Lokar is well made and the perfect height, but will require some more head scratching before it is permanently installed- clearances are tight with the 700r4 in the tunnel... Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

03-30-2011, 11:30 PM	#8
5150.4.67 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Modesto, Ca Posts: 411	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Gringo, Where did you mount the prop valve? I'm guessing on the cross member 73 and later style?



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