S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

After the fenders and hood are aligned and core support bolted down, I remove the hood/fenders to cut down the inner fenders. I generally cut along the lowest full wind line on the inner fender. Removing the bottom 3 or so inches. and then hold them in position to mark for the A-frame clearance. I don't have any good pics, I'll try to get some on the current build.

[OrrieG]

Great post, will answer the question we get weekly about s-10 swaps. I agree with the comment to take in in order of assembly otherwise it will get difficult to follow.

[iowaboynca]

Moderators- When Sarge completes this can we get a sticky? Maybe in the builds section...

Thanks.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Originally Posted by iowaboynca

Moderators- When Sarge completes this can we get a sticky? Maybe in the builds section...

Thanks.

Good idea.

mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.

[mel knippson]

im curious to know what is wrong with the threads that have , bagged, lowered, or slammed in them ... i just posted my first thread and it has bagged in it .. i understand you dont like the style , but we need help just like anyone else .



mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.
__________________
Bill US Army Vet -193rd Infantry

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by mel knippson

im curious to know what is wrong with the threads that have , bagged, lowered, or slammed in them ... i just posted my first thread and it has bagged in it .. i understand you dont like the style , but we need help just like anyone else .



mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.
__________________
Bill US Army Vet -193rd Infantry

Funny... very funny.

[joedoh]

for anyone wondering how to move the stock 4.3 or want to install a sbc, and dont think you want to build the super simple engine mounts skymangs shows, I have recommended and just recently installed for the first time the universal weld in engine mount crossmember from speedway motors. It comes with two new motor mounts and is $75.

to keep the motor at the same height as stock, I ended up with the tube almost exactly 1/2 way over the frame then boxed in the open end. you can measure from the center of the original mount to the center of the new mount to get the right amount of move, mine is moved 10 inches because its a 41 going on the frame, measure your own to be sure. also, dont forget to offset about an inch to the passenger side for steering shaft clearance, and install the mount at a 4 degree down angle. you dont have to level the frame, just put an angle finder on the middle part of the frame and note the angle, then install the motor mount with 4 more degrees down to the rear

IMG_7385 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_7415 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_7418 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_7437 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

what about the trans? what if you dont want to section your original or dont have it?
speedway makes one of those too. get the one with the 4" drop, I got the 2" drop and it wasnt enough for exhaust.

Messages Image(4025115421) by Joe Doh, on Flickr

you might need to cut the center of it out to fit a later trans mount.
IMG_7408 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

it comes with two triangle mounts, but so does the engine crossmember, if you use them all on the trans mount you have a removable trans mount, easy peasy.
IMG_7453 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


if you order them at the same time you get free shipping, and its under $130 for both WITH new engine mounts. you can build them like skymangs shows and its not very hard and is defintely cheaper, but I spent more time at homer derpo getting the parts to make my own on the last truck than I did installing BOTH of these

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by mel knippson

im curious to know what is wrong with the threads that have , bagged, lowered, or slammed in them ... i just posted my first thread and it has bagged in it .. i understand you dont like the style , but we need help just like anyone else .



mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.
__________________
Bill US Army Vet -193rd Infantry

Not to argue against your preference, but I've had some decent success on this forum in getting information for my favorite...bagged s10 chassis swaps. There's even a thread of sweet pictures here:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=517098

The nice part about an Internet community is you can ignore anyone you want no matter how loudly they type

I'm currently working on putting an accuair e-level and firestone bags on my S10 swap. Be happy to share my mistakes and research with ya.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by mel knippson

im curious to know what is wrong with the threads that have , bagged, lowered, or slammed in them ... i just posted my first thread and it has bagged in it .. i understand you dont like the style , but we need help just like anyone else .

mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.
__________________
Bill US Army Vet -193rd Infantry

I'd be curious to know where you get your entitlement? An FNG with 10 posts, 0 contribution to date, and you're calling out a long standing and contributing member?

There's nothing wrong with coming on here and asking for help but before you act like you own the place and start telling everyone how it is you need to put in your dues. Learn, share, show us how you got it done, what your experience taught you, and what you've ****ed up so we don't **** it up too. Then maybe, we, or at least I, will give a **** about your opinion.

Sorry to hyjack the thread, rant done. Please, back to "S10 Swap how to".

[joedoh]

guys guys, settle down. as a new guy he didnt get his quote right, he was quoting a MOD on the first or second page, who had deleted a couple of mr48s posts in this thread about what a stupid idea s10 swaps are.

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

Good idea.

mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.

it was a long time ago, everyones moved on since.

[mel knippson]

it looked like he was putting down the bagged , slammed ect, i really didnt mean anything by it , and i also did not realize how many people were a part of this group and how many questions are asked every day , and how it takes very Special people , to answer people questions for free and give a crap .. i do apologize i have been searching thru these threads and having a little bit of a hard time . and didnt realize i was calling anyone out or especially someone that has contributed so much to this AWESOME group ..

[mikec4193]

Originally Posted by skymangs

After the fenders and hood are aligned and core support bolted down, I remove the hood/fenders to cut down the inner fenders. I generally cut along the lowest full wind line on the inner fender. Removing the bottom 3 or so inches. and then hold them in position to mark for the A-frame clearance. I don't have any good pics, I'll try to get some on the current build.

Hi Skymangs

Can you explain how you got the tires to stick out closer to the stock fender openings...I have seen a lot of these builds and the S10 track width seems to be a little narrow in stock form. Any insight on this would be awesome...I gotta say you got the look down perfect...(I am working thru a S10 on a Willys cab/body)...I would love to see your fixes...mine is all stock V6 5 speed...so it will be nice to see how you address these many issues involved in these swaps...

thanks for posting this thread...

MikeC

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by mikec4193

Hi Skymangs

Can you explain how you got the tires to stick out closer to the stock fender openings...I have seen a lot of these builds and the S10 track width seems to be a little narrow in stock form. Any insight on this would be awesome...I gotta say you got the look down perfect...(I am working thru a S10 on a Willys cab/body)...I would love to see your fixes...mine is all stock V6 5 speed...so it will be nice to see how you address these many issues involved in these swaps...

thanks for posting this thread...

MikeC

I used billet spacers on mine. Spacers have come a long way in the last few years. Originally I used 7" wheels with a 1" back space, never could get the racing style wheels to balance properly so spacers became the solution.

[skymangs]

Wow, thanks for all the great response to this!

Steve Aleve; I don't have any good pics, but I'm putting one together this coming week, and plan to fill in the "gaps" with detailed photos of several of my mods.

Mikec4193; I use 2" billet aluminum wheel spacers on the front. Exactly as S10fan stated. Be sure you get billet (stronger) and don't go over 2". On the rear axle, I use an S10 4x4 axle. I've seen people use spacers back there as well though.

Kodiak53; I can put up some more pics of core support mods as well. Mostly it's key to make the 4" channel at the bottom, and use the late 60's gm "isolator cushions". I get them on ebay for about $20.