S10 Swap how to

[Nebo49]

I can't thank you enough for this thread!! I'm a newbie to this site and a proud new owner of a 49' 5 window. I'm just in the entry level stages of an S-10 frame swap now and this thread is JIT!! Probably going to rebuild the 283 and marry it with a 350 turbo tranny. Thanks for taking your time to detail your builds and pics!!

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by Nebo49

I can't thank you enough for this thread!! I'm a newbie to this site and a proud new owner of a 49' 5 window. I'm just in the entry level stages of an S-10 frame swap now and this thread is JIT!! Probably going to rebuild the 283 and marry it with a 350 turbo tranny. Thanks for taking your time to detail your builds and pics!!

Welcome to the forum Sir! Tons of info here, lots of friendly members!

[skymangs]

Thanks guys.

Nebo49; My one regret on my son's truck was using a TH350... If I could do it again, I'd use a 700R4... Overdrive makes such a big difference in drivability.

[Nebo49]

Thanks Sarge...That's def food for thought esp from someone like yourself who's been there done that...It has the old powerglide and considered keeping it to, but now you've got me thinking on the 700 for sure...I appreciate the advice...I may bother you with some other questions later on if you don't mind lol!

[skymangs]

I wanted to cover the frame a bit tonight. One thorn in my side has always been the S10 rear cab mounts. They are huge, and seam welded all around the inside. My first several builds took me about 2 hrs to get them off and cleaned up. I can now get both off in about 30 min, so I'm going to detail my solution.

First, I use a cut off wheel, and cut the upright welds, and the top weld (pic 1).
There are 2 stitch welds (1.5" or so) on top, against the frame (pic 2). I use my cut off wheel to score both of them. Then a 5lb sledge from inside, to stretch those welds a bit. I cut some more, then tap some more, 3 or 4 times, and those seams pop. (pic 3) then, since I've already cut the inner welds, the whole bracket breaks off pretty cleanly. A little cleanup with a flap disk, and you are golden. (pic 4).

[skymangs]

The front cab mounts are easy. I use a plasma to cut the front and rear edges, then knock them off with a sledge. Of course, a cut-off wheel would work just as well, but fire is way cooler!

I leave the bed mounts right behind the cab mount (pic 4). I re-use them to support the bed (I'll detail this later in the thread)

[skymangs]

Ok, now that the cab is on, and the driveline is set, it's time to start figuring out the box and running boards. First thing I do is cut 2 lengths of 1.5 x 1.5 11ga. boxed tube steel to 49.5". These will be your new "cross-sills". I put the box on the frame, then place one cross sill above the front box mounts (the ones I left), and under the factory angle edge strips on the stock pickup box. Then the second piece of steel goes directly on the frame, behind the rear axle "hump" in the frame. This should give you a nice level bed at the correct height for my "version 2" cab stands.

Then I drill a 1/4" pilot hole through the tube steel, and a 1" holesaw on the top side (access for the nuts and bolts), and bolt them right to the frame. I seam weld the 1.5" square tube to the bed side, around all 4 sides. now when you put weight on the bed, it is supported directly by the frame, and not the bedsides.

Be sure to check for level on your box. I do that by placing a 36" level along the drivers rocker, then along the top of the bed rail. Ensuring that the bubble is in the same location for both. then I check level side to side on the front panel, and tailgate. Finally I take a measurement from the windline on the back of the cab to the top of the box on both sides to be sure they are the same.

[Nebo49]

Thanks Bryan ...Looking forward to being here and talking with you guys!