OR Volt Gauge Conversion Kits

[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

So the ammeter circuits on the board are taped back and not used? If that is the case, you could run a volt meter instead of an ammeter when switching from a non gauge cluster to a gauge cluster, and not have to cut into your harness or modify it, or add fuses as described by gmcpauls instructions...is this correct?

Hi Scott,

Yes and no. First think of the amp gauge as a completely separate function than the other gauges. You have 2 wires in the cluster connector that power the amp gauge. One in the #1 terminal and one in the #12 terminal. These need to be added to the harness for a non gauge harness to work with a gauge cluster. I have always suggested that a person run the wiring just like factory with the 4 amp fuses in line as well.

The rest of the gauges (fuel and temp) need to be wired as shown in GMC Pauls directions. Most of the wiring is there, it just needs to be changed by removing the terminals from the connector and placing them in the correct location for a gauge cluster.

For those who are converting from a non gauge to a gauge cluster, adding a volt gauge is much easier than wiring for an amp gauge.

As far as circuit board, as long as the "amp" gauge wiring is not live (under power) it does not matter how you do it. It can be as simple as removing the two 4 amp in line fuses, taping the circuit board back (as in my photos) or actually removing the #1 and #12 terminals from the cluster connector and taping them off.

Hope this helps and thank you for the questions.

Have a Merry Christmas,
Tom

[leddzepp]

[QUOTE=TBONE1964;6970666]Hi Scott,

Yes and no. First think of the amp gauge as a completely separate function than the other gauges. You have 2 wires in the cluster connector that power the amp gauge. One in the #1 terminal and one in the #12 terminal. These need to be added to the harness for a non gauge harness to work with a gauge cluster. I have always suggested that a person run the wiring just like factory with the 4 amp fuses in line as well.

Exactly...since the ammeter is independent, Do you still need to do this step if you run a volt meter instead?

The rest of the process is just a matter of switching pins around in the plug it looks like.

Thanks for your info and Merry Christmas as well!

[TBONE1964]

[quote=leddzepp;6970692]

Originally Posted by TBONE1964

Hi Scott,

Yes and no. First think of the amp gauge as a completely separate function than the other gauges. You have 2 wires in the cluster connector that power the amp gauge. One in the #1 terminal and one in the #12 terminal. These need to be added to the harness for a non gauge harness to work with a gauge cluster. I have always suggested that a person run the wiring just like factory with the 4 amp fuses in line as well.

Exactly...since the ammeter is independent, Do you still need to do this step if you run a volt meter instead?

The rest of the process is just a matter of switching pins around in the plug it looks like.

Thanks for your info and Merry Christmas as well!

No sir,

The volt gauge only needs a power and ground to work. That power and ground can come from anywhere but it is easiest to get right next door at the temp gauge as shown in my photo.

I suggest those who have a existing amp gauge, remove power from the circuit board by what ever method they see best in there situation.

[magwakeenercew2jh]

[quote=TBONE1964;6970704]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

The volt gauge only needs a power and ground to work. That power and ground can come from anywhere but it is easiest to get right next door at the temp gauge as shown in my photo.

I suggest those who have a existing amp gauge, remove power from the circuit board by what ever method they see best in there situation.

Great kit, Tom. Mine came today. Thanks.

I read the above, and understand that a 12v and G (1 and 2) run the Volt meter.

Stealing the 12V from the temp gauge with the red #1 from what terminal on the temp gauge?
I'd guess the one at the 3 o'clock position as the picture faces us. But guessing is not smart. Hahahaha!

Also, where do you recommend attaching the other end of the ground wire (black; #2)?

Finally, what is the purpose of the short black wire with the #3 and #4 eyelets?
And, what connection points do you suggest?