1972 Blazer CST Frame off Project in NC

[UGAK5]

Ok, I need some help.

Does anyone know the torque settings for the ball joints on the drag link that goes from front tire to front tire? I looked in the service manual and I THINK its 50 ft-lbs, then turn to the next cotter pin hole, but I can't tell for sure. The book doesn't call it a drag link or center link and only refers to a tie rod - which I think is the rod that goes from the pitman arm to the steering arm.

I also looked in the assembly guide - - no dice.

Heres a pic from the assembly guide of the ball joint I am speaking of.......thanks guys.

[A1971Blazer]

Tie rod is what goes from steering knuckle....... to steering knuckle...drag link connects pitman arm to steering arm....what you are referring to is the "tie rod end"
I have a torque chart somewhere if I can find it.

from LMC catalog:

[hemi43]

There's no need for factory specs because the size of the bolt and it's grade will determine what's needed for the proper torque. I have this chart posted on the shop wall.

[UGAK5]

Attempting some progress this weekend - but as always, hit some snags.

I was reviewing some build threads looking at steering dampers and stumbled across this pic on Big J's build of a front parking brake cable support. See pic from his build below.

I have the two smaller rear ones that are about 3 - 4 inches long, but I don't have a longer one for the front passenger side. That one looks 14 to 16 inches long.

One, am I supposed to have it (assume answer is yes) on a 1972 and two, any ideas on a source? Not shocked I don't have it as the the PO's work included taking the rear drums parking brake lever out from between the shoes, so clearly it didn't have a functioning parking brake.....

[DeadheadNM]

Yes supposed to have one. A wtb on the parts board should turn up. I'll look here to see if I have one to spare.

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Yes supposed to have one. A wtb on the parts board should turn up. I'll look here to see if I have one to spare.

This is my parking brake setup based on the parts I have from the PO and the ebrake kit I bought from Inline Tube. Weird that they left the 2 little intermediate line holders but not the long one.

[UGAK5]

Had a good weekend - got almost everything off the to do list for the weekend.

DONE:

** Rear brakes completed, including having to fabricate an adjuster opening in the brake backer plate. I don't think I've posted this before, but when I rebuilt the rear axles, I replaced the stock brake backer plates with an original set of heavy duty brake backer plates. This gives me a set of shoes that are 2 3/4" wide versus 2", so I gained about 30% of stopping power. I decided I wanted to keep rear drums for three reasons - 1) 70% of braking is in the front and with my new slotted rotors and dual caliper Wilwoods, that seemed sufficient. 2) Rear discs move you to a 16" wheel and I wanted to stay with 15" - that backfired when I had to move to 16" wheels due to front clearance. And, 3) Rear discs cost almost triple what this cost me.

** Tie rod cleaned, POR-15'd, tie rod ends installed and mounted

** Fuel tank modified (swapped filler neck from old tank to new tank), repainted - and POR-15'd the straps. Would've mounted it too if I'd had four arms - - or a helper.

NOT DONE:

** Steering damper not installed. I bought a Monroe shock and had some clearance issues - plus I just didn't like the Monroe shock. I am going to try a Bilstein.

Now, some pics.......and A ROLLING CHASIS!

[UGAK5]

Rest of the pics:

[ochre1971]

Looking great Chris. Congrats on getting her rolling! That parking brake cable support looks easy enough to make yourself if you don't come across one.

[UGAK5]

Hey guys - - I am curious if anyone has any advice on what to complete BEFORE putting the tub back on the body. My body guy texted and he is in the final stages - exciting and scary!

So far, here is what I have done:

* Run all brake and fuel lines
* Installed leaf springs, axles and shocks
* Installed engine and trans crossmembers
* Front and Rear brakes
* Wheels and tires
* Parking Brake installed

Still left to do (at least in my mind):

* Fuel tank, sending unit and rubber fuel lines
* Transfer Case and Trans installed
* Drive shafts installed

Then put the tub on


Not sure if there is anything else - tail light wires, etc - but all that seems like it would be easy post tub install. Appreciate any suggestions from guys that have been there, done that.

Thanks!

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by ochre1971

Looking great Chris. Congrats on getting her rolling! That parking brake cable support looks easy enough to make yourself if you don't come across one.

Thanks Banks - feels like I am picking up steam now!

And had an interesting find last week. I was looking at torque converters and discovered a guy here in Cornelius who builds them for racers all over the world. One man shop, super knowledgeable and professional. He is building mine for me and I should have it next week.

The beauty of a local guy is service after the sale - he said if I was in any way unhappy with its stall limit (after I get everything back together), he'd adjust it for me for free. Hard to beat.

[turp mcspray]

If they are done, I would install the engine, trans, and transfer case, before the tub.

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by turp mcspray

If they are done, I would install the engine, trans, and transfer case, before the tub.

Thanks Turp - No engine yet, so that'll be after the tub goes on. I did get the tank, all rubber hoses for the tank and the wiring done. I got my steering dampener on - - I did go with a 5100 series Bilstein - - fit really well and had the same 9" travel of the Monroe, so I think it'll be fine. Keeping the Monroe around just in case though!

I did tackle the Transfer Case - and got it mostly installed. I ran into a problem with the bolts for the side of the transfer case that connects it to the frame - the 3 piece stabilizer with the rubber bushings. I tried to reinstall the bolts from the PO and they would get tight, then slip the thread and be loose again. So, I went and got new bolts - 9/16-12 and it still felt loose in the thread. Tried to torque it up and same thing - - once it got past snug, it slipped the thread.

So I thought I have the wrong bolt for sure. Bought a 5/8-11 but couldn't get it started. Also picked up some M14 (too small and slid right into the hole) and M16 (wouldn't thread, like the 5/8), and neither worked.

So, I am guessing the 9/16-12 is the right bolt and pitch, but thats not fixing my slipping problem.

Anyone got a recommendation on a fix - - or a confirmation on bolt size? I know alot of guys run without this brace, but I want it on there.

Thanks - - kinda stuck

[Tom Vogel]

I am guessing you are sure the threads are not stripped.

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

I am guessing you are sure the threads are not stripped.

Well, if the proper bolt size is 9/16, then I am thinking they are stripped, and that I'll need to drill it and tap it (a skill I don't have).

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by UGAK5

Well, if the proper bolt size is 9/16, then I am thinking they are stripped, and that I'll need to drill it and tap it (a skill I don't have).

look down past the bad threads...if there are a few good ones below them...just get a slightly longer bolt so it will catch the good threads...

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

look down past the bad threads...if there are a few good ones below them...just get a slightly longer bolt so it will catch the good threads...

Yeah, tried that. Thanks though.

I think its gonna have to be tapped...unless someone has a better idea.

[UGAK5]

Finally something cool to share - - COLOR!!!!!!

I don't think the pics do it justice.

[IronCanine]

Congrats. Looking good. Great color. Well into the fun stuff now.

[CTENTA1]

That's a beautiful color!

[UGAK5]

Thanks guys - very pleased with how the color turned out.

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by UGAK5

Well, if the proper bolt size is 9/16, then I am thinking they are stripped, and that I'll need to drill it and tap it (a skill I don't have).

Turns out that the bolts are supposed to be 5/8-11. The PO used 9/16-12s and boogered the threads up to the point that only a 9/16s would thread, but not tighten. Oh well, par for the course.

The silver lining is it's fixed now and I met an awesome machinist in the process. A true craftsman.

[raggedjim]

Great job on this, the paint is amazing!

Rg

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Awesome! I bet you are stoked to have the paint finished.

[jaros44sr]

are you still looking for the long piece for the e brake?
nice build luv the paint