69 Burb speaker/amp/sub suggestions needed

[Hart_Rod]

I have a RetroSound2 stereo head unit in my burb and am happy with all the features that it offers.

https://www.retromanufacturing.com/p...nt=28568817347

I am currently in the process of finishing the interior and would like to add some decent speakers/amp. What I'm currently planning is four 6.5s, 2 in the kick panel and 2 between the 2nd and 3rd row seat. I also plan on mounting a 10 to 12" sub in the spare tire compartment just behind the 3rd row seat. Thoughts on this setup? Any suggestions to include speaker brands, components or any other recommendations. I haven't bought anything but the head unit, so I'm open for other ideas as long as they don't get outrageous, . I'm just looking for some good sound quality and am not interested in winning any stereo contests, .

Here are some pictures of the rear compartment. Thanks in advance!

[BIGglaSS]

You have so many different options, it is hard to recommend a specific setup. If you're not into winning a contest, don't want to mess with tuning, and just want good solid sound, you're on the right track. The retrosound has good basic tuning functions and can support 5 channel output.

A solid option (entry level) would be a 5 channel amp, front/rear component speakers, and (1) 10" or 12" sub.

Everyone has their favorite brands in audio. I spent quite a bit of time researching and wandering around: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/

Here's a few that get solid reviews on the forums, at entry level prices when this gets asked:

Amps: NVX JAD900.5 amp $220. Zapco ST-X series ($250-$400). Alpine PDX-V9 $700.

Components, is where you want to do your research and spend your money. It wouldn't be hard to spend about $250+ per pair. JL Audio, Image Dynamics, Focal, Morel, and Audiofrog ($$$$); all have multiple options and budgets.

For subs, there are a LOT to choose from mild to wild. Image Dynamics IDQ10 or IDQ12 gets great reviews in small sealed enclosures without breaking the bank. Dig around on the audio forum, and you will find lots of reviews on many subs.

Hope this helps to get you started.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

You have so many different options, it is hard to recommend a specific setup. If you're not into winning a contest, don't want to mess with tuning, and just want good solid sound, you're on the right track. The retrosound has good basic tuning functions and can support 5 channel output.

A solid option (entry level) would be a 5 channel amp, front/rear component speakers, and (1) 10" or 12" sub.

Everyone has their favorite brands in audio. I spent quite a bit of time researching and wandering around: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/

Here's a few that get solid reviews on the forums, at entry level prices when this gets asked:

Amps: NVX JAD900.5 amp $220. Zapco ST-X series ($250-$400). Alpine PDX-V9 $700.

Components, is where you want to do your research and spend your money. It wouldn't be hard to spend about $250+ per pair. JL Audio, Image Dynamics, Focal, Morel, and Audiofrog ($$$$); all have multiple options and budgets.

For subs, there are a LOT to choose from mild to wild. Image Dynamics IDQ10 or IDQ12 gets great reviews in small sealed enclosures without breaking the bank. Dig around on the audio forum, and you will find lots of reviews on many subs.

Hope this helps to get you started.

Thanks for all of the info!! .

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

You have so many different options, it is hard to recommend a specific setup. If you're not into winning a contest, don't want to mess with tuning, and just want good solid sound, you're on the right track. The retrosound has good basic tuning functions and can support 5 channel output.

A solid option (entry level) would be a 5 channel amp, front/rear component speakers, and (1) 10" or 12" sub.

Everyone has their favorite brands in audio. I spent quite a bit of time researching and wandering around: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/

Here's a few that get solid reviews on the forums, at entry level prices when this gets asked:

Amps: NVX JAD900.5 amp $220. Zapco ST-X series ($250-$400). Alpine PDX-V9 $700.

Components, is where you want to do your research and spend your money. It wouldn't be hard to spend about $250+ per pair. JL Audio, Image Dynamics, Focal, Morel, and Audiofrog ($$$$); all have multiple options and budgets.

For subs, there are a LOT to choose from mild to wild. Image Dynamics IDQ10 or IDQ12 gets great reviews in small sealed enclosures without breaking the bank. Dig around on the audio forum, and you will find lots of reviews on many subs.

Hope this helps to get you started.

How about this:

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-JAD900.5.html

For front and rears? https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...io-C2-650.html

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...12-D2-V.4.html

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/checkout/express

[BIGglaSS]

Sounds solid. Nice 'burban, by the way.

Not sure what you had in mind for budget, but I hope that fit the bill. ONE minor change, though. IMO, to get peak power available to run a 12" sub, you need to run 2 ohm. That means a dual coil 4 ohm, or a single coil 2 ohm speaker. It is always a good idea to have max power available, and turn it down, than to not have enough power and push an amp to its limits.

Dual 4 ohm version: (wired parallel = 2 ohm)
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...12-D4-V.4.html

Just to throw a curve ball out there, JL W3 series get good recommendations for small enclosures. However, they are single coil, so you would need the 2 ohm version:
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-12W3v3-2.html

I don't have an opinion either way, you'd probably get 50 different opinions on which one and it probably comes down to brand loyalty.

JL components are a solid choice. Rears are typically for rear seat listeners. If you just want them for hearing music behind you, you can save a couple $ by going coaxial such as JL c2-650x @ $130. Neither choice is wrong, but definitely go components in the front.

Good luck!

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

Sounds solid. Nice 'burban, by the way.

Not sure what you had in mind for budget, but I hope that fit the bill. ONE minor change, though. IMO, to get peak power available to run a 12" sub, you need to run 2 ohm. That means a dual coil 4 ohm, or a single coil 2 ohm speaker. It is always a good idea to have max power available, and turn it down, than to not have enough power and push an amp to its limits.

Dual 4 ohm version: (wired parallel = 2 ohm)
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...12-D4-V.4.html

Just to throw a curve ball out there, JL W3 series get good recommendations for small enclosures. However, they are single coil, so you would need the 2 ohm version:
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-12W3v3-2.html

I don't have an opinion either way, you'd probably get 50 different opinions on which one and it probably comes down to brand loyalty.

JL components are a solid choice. Rears are typically for rear seat listeners. If you just want them for hearing music behind you, you can save a couple $ by going coaxial such as JL c2-650x @ $130. Neither choice is wrong, but definitely go components in the front.

Good luck!

I can change to 10" sub, it should suit my needs. Also, I looks like the kickpanel speaker pods are limited to a 6.25" round by 1.77" depth.

https://www.retromanufacturing.com/p...ry#prettyPhoto

Any Suggestions?

[BIGglaSS]

That 1.77 spec is for their entry level supplied speaker, not the depth of the pod. Their deluxe is 2.1. The JL's are 2.44. I don't think it will be a problem. If it is, then you can use a .5" spacer ring to move the speaker out.

IMO, the 10" is a better match for that amp. However, after looking over the spec sheet again, the coils are way less resistance than advertised. The D4 would end up @ 1.45 ohm, instead of 2 ohm. A lot of amps are not stable down to 1 ohm. This is out of my comfort zone for giving advice without consulting the manufacturer.

Therefore, the IDQ10-D2 wired series is 1.85 ohm x2= 3.7 ohm. This would be the safer option. Image Dynamics recommends 250w RMS for the IDQ10. The NVX amp advertises 220-300w @ 4 ohm. The extra "horsepower" at 2 ohm would be nice, but I think 4 ohm would be adequate.

We're kind of splitting hairs here. I could ask this question on the audio forum if you're interested in squeezing the extra power out of the amp. Which, I think would be needed if running the 12".

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

That 1.77 spec is for their entry level supplied speaker, not the depth of the pod. Their deluxe is 2.1. The JL's are 2.44. I don't think it will be a problem. If it is, then you can use a .5" spacer ring to move the speaker out.

IMO, the 10" is a better match for that amp. However, after looking over the spec sheet again, the coils are way less resistance than advertised. The D4 would end up @ 1.45 ohm, instead of 2 ohm. A lot of amps are not stable down to 1 ohm. This is out of my comfort zone for giving advice without consulting the manufacturer.

Therefore, the IDQ10-D2 wired series is 1.85 ohm x2= 3.7 ohm. This would be the safer option. Image Dynamics recommends 250w RMS for the IDQ10. The NVX amp advertises 220-300w @ 4 ohm. The extra "horsepower" at 2 ohm would be nice, but I think 4 ohm would be adequate.

We're kind of splitting hairs here. I could ask this question on the audio forum if you're interested in squeezing the extra power out of the amp. Which, I think would be needed if running the 12".

I'm good with the 10". The problem with going with a deeper speaker is that it will create interference with the parking brake if you shim it out.

[slowcpe]

Looks like a nice setup. I've never hear of the amp before, but that might not be saying much.

I'm with BIGlaSS on running components up front and coaxial in the rear. I do that on most of my setups. Also I agree, its awfully hard to beat a JL subwoofer.

I like the Retro Component Kick Panels but I don't see where you can buy them unloaded.

[BIGglaSS]

Bend the parking brake.

Originally Posted by slowcpe

Looks like a nice setup. I've never hear of the amp before, but that might not be saying much.

I'm with BIGlaSS on running components up front and coaxial in the rear. I do that on most of my setups. Also I agree, its awfully hard to beat a JL subwoofer.

I like the Retro Component Kick Panels but I don't see where you can buy them unloaded.

I believe that same amp is made for a couple different brands (PPI, Arc audio?). Same amp, different logo. It gets lots of positive rec's. I have a Zapco amp, but it lacks a remote bass knob. That is a nice feature when you have some songs with overpowering bass, and the next one is not enough. Otherwise you have to dig deep into the subwoofer settings on the head unit to adjust.

It looks like you can buy the "blank" kick panels directly from Retro. I also have the Retro2 and all Image Dynamics speakers for my 57 pickup, but haven't installed yet. Hopefully soon.

In a 2 seater, I would skip the rear speakers and spend the money on a DSP (digital signal processer). A DSP will correct the imaging to put you right in the sound stage. No need for rears.

[slowcpe]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

I believe that same amp is made for a couple different brands (PPI, Arc audio?). Same amp, different logo. It gets lots of positive rec's. I have a Zapco amp, but it lacks a remote bass knob. That is a nice feature when you have some songs with overpowering bass, and the next one is not enough. Otherwise you have to dig deep into the subwoofer settings on the head unit to adjust.

It looks like you can buy the "blank" kick panels directly from Retro. I also have the Retro2 and all Image Dynamics speakers for my 57 pickup, but haven't installed yet. Hopefully soon.

In a 2 seater, I would skip the rear speakers and spend the money on a DSP (digital signal processer). A DSP will correct the imaging to put you right in the sound stage. No need for rears.

Yeah I'm a firm believer in a remote subwoofer volume control. My old Phoenix Gold amp in my boat had one and we used it all the time. The RF amp in my sxs didn't have one so I got a volume control that I wired inline of the RCAs on the sub amp.

I agree rears in a truck isn't necessary. The seat kind of kills the sound quality.

I like the idea of components due to lack of angle of coaxials won't give you the proper soundstage.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by slowcpe

Looks like a nice setup. I've never hear of the amp before, but that might not be saying much.

I'm with BIGlaSS on running components up front and coaxial in the rear. I do that on most of my setups. Also I agree, its awfully hard to beat a JL subwoofer.

I like the Retro Component Kick Panels but I don't see where you can buy them unloaded.

I found them on Summitracing for $59

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/res-kp-c59-6772

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

Bend the parking brake.


I believe that same amp is made for a couple different brands (PPI, Arc audio?). Same amp, different logo. It gets lots of positive rec's. I have a Zapco amp, but it lacks a remote bass knob. That is a nice feature when you have some songs with overpowering bass, and the next one is not enough. Otherwise you have to dig deep into the subwoofer settings on the head unit to adjust.

It looks like you can buy the "blank" kick panels directly from Retro. I also have the Retro2 and all Image Dynamics speakers for my 57 pickup, but haven't installed yet. Hopefully soon.

In a 2 seater, I would skip the rear speakers and spend the money on a DSP (digital signal processer). A DSP will correct the imaging to put you right in the sound stage. No need for rears.

Originally Posted by slowcpe

Yeah I'm a firm believer in a remote subwoofer volume control. My old Phoenix Gold amp in my boat had one and we used it all the time. The RF amp in my sxs didn't have one so I got a volume control that I wired inline of the RCAs on the sub amp.

I agree rears in a truck isn't necessary. The seat kind of kills the sound quality.

I like the idea of components due to lack of angle of coaxials won't give you the proper soundstage.

How did you set your components up in the front of your 68?

To both of you, sorry for all of the questions, but I'm stereo illiterate...

[Hart_Rod]

Looking at these for the rear:

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-C2-650cw.html

or this:

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...ividually.html

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Looking at these for the rear:
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-C2-650cw.html
or this:
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...ividually.html

Neither. Those are individually priced woofers for the component set. You would use those in a more complicated install with active components and digital processors. A component "set" includes tweeters and passive crossovers. You're money ahead to buy them as a set vs individual. C2 is entry level series, and C5 is a mid-level model. For rears, these would be adequate @ $130/pair, or the same component set used in the front.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...o-C2-650x.html

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

Neither. Those are individually priced woofers for the component set. You would use those in a more complicated install with active components and digital processors. A component "set" includes tweeters and passive crossovers. You're money ahead to buy them as a set vs individual. C2 is entry level series, and C5 is a mid-level model. For rears, these would be adequate @ $130/pair, or the same component set used in the front.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...o-C2-650x.html

Copy all. If you guys think this list is good, I will push the button, .

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/checkout/express

[slowcpe]

Your cart shows empty

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by slowcpe

Your cart shows empty

OOPPPSS!! Here you go.

[slowcpe]

Now I'm a home a/v guy by profession so I don't have to deal with wiring for impedance much. I would personally go with a Dual 4-ohm voice coil (you have selected 2) as I don't see where the amp is 1-ohm stable. biglass may have better input than me.

Also with the box, from the specs of the sub, is a little large (1.25 cu ft.) for the sub (1.0 cu. ft recommended), but should work just fine. Also the cutout diameter of the sub is a little larger than box so you may have to trim it. No big deal, just making you aware.

Now I don't don't know anything about the amp, box, and sub so I'm just going off the specs on that site.

The JL speakers look good!

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by slowcpe

Now I'm a home a/v guy by profession so I don't have to deal with wiring for impedance much. I would personally go with a Dual 4-ohm voice coil (you have selected 2) as I don't see where the amp is 1-ohm stable. biglass may have better input than me.

Also with the box, from the specs of the sub, is a little large (1.25 cu ft.) for the sub (1.0 cu. ft recommended), but should work just fine. Also the cutout diameter of the sub is a little larger than box so you may have to trim it. No big deal, just making you aware.

Now I don't don't know anything about the amp, box, and sub so I'm just going off the specs on that site.

The JL speakers look good!

I think you are talking about this one: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...0-V.4-D4.html#

[BIGglaSS]

Looks good.

First off, here is the manufacturer's spec sheet for the subwoofer:
http://www.imagedynamicsusa.net/idq-idqs

Box volume (sealed) of 1.1 to 1.6 will be perfect.

Here is an explanation of dual coil wiring:
https://knowledge.sonicelectronix.co...woofer-wiring/

Specifically, Dual 2 to equal 4 ohm:


Per the spec sheet of the IDq10 D2: 1.85 * 2 = 3.7
For the D4 version: 2.9 / 2 = 1.45. Therefore, I'm not comfortable recommending it. Can it be done? Probably, but I take no responsibility. This is out of my knowledge. I may be overthinking this, because wiring adds resistance. When looking at other speaker's specs, it is closer to nominal.

I'm curious as well, I may ask this on the other forum. You will definitely squeeze more power from the amp with the D4 version.

[slowcpe]

Yeah I knew you can wire to 4 ohm but saw the amp was 2 ohm stable and thus get more power to the sub (which we all like ). I also didn't take the time to do the math you did

[BIGglaSS]

I just took a look at that box. It is ported. I would use a sealed box or build your own. A ported box needs to be built to the speaker manufacturer's specs, not something generic. A sealed box will give better results for novice install.

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by slowcpe

Yeah I knew you can wire to 4 ohm but saw the amp was 2 ohm stable and thus get more power to the sub (which we all like ). I also didn't take the time to do the math you did

That was my first thought, also. The ID8 D4 that I will use is 1.92 total... Close enough to 2 for me.

I posted this on the audio forum.. Probably get 50/50 answers.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by slowcpe

Now I'm a home a/v guy by profession so I don't have to deal with wiring for impedance much. I would personally go with a Dual 4-ohm voice coil (you have selected 2) as I don't see where the amp is 1-ohm stable. biglass may have better input than me.

Also with the box, from the specs of the sub, is a little large (1.25 cu ft.) for the sub (1.0 cu. ft recommended), but should work just fine. Also the cutout diameter of the sub is a little larger than box so you may have to trim it. No big deal, just making you aware.

Now I don't don't know anything about the amp, box, and sub so I'm just going off the specs on that site.

The JL speakers look good!

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

I just took a look at that box. It is ported. I would use a sealed box or build your own. A ported box needs to be built to the speaker manufacturer's specs, not something generic. A sealed box will give better results for novice install.

This one should be perfect.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-MDFS1012.html

Placing my order tonight. Will touch bases with both of you tomorrow, .

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

This one should be perfect.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-MDFS1012.html

Placing my order tonight. Will touch bases with both of you tomorrow, .

I think that's a better choice. Unless you already have MDF and carpet on hand, you can't build a box for that price. However, custom built, you can tailor the box to fit the spare tire carrier, and/or make it look like a spare.