55.2-59 What’s the most practical way to swap engines?

[mick53]

I went with EPAS electric power steering, clean and simple.

[Phungki]

Originally Posted by mick53

I went with EPAS electric power steering, clean and simple.

I will definitely look into this. I wondered if it was possible to utilize the power steering pump that came in whatever engine I put in it or if that would just be opening up a huge and possibly unnecessary project. I’m pretty much a newb when it comes to this. I’m sure I have bit off more than I can chew but I’m in no hurry.
Thank you for this idea

[yossarian19]

I started with similar notions about keeping it stock-ish in the front suspension.
My experience is that by the time you add disc brakes, power steering, new bushings, new steering joints, etc you have spent darn near what an IFS might have cost you.
I've got new shackles, rear spring bushings, new king pins, new tie rod, C10 power steering (avoid like plague), disc brakes, tapered roller bearings, 4* caster wedges and probably some other junk into my I-beam front end.

It handles and steers like a boat, parks like a garbage truck and buzzes like a summ***** going down the freeway. With a Chevy 350 & 7004R you will have the power and gearing to go a lot faster than your front end will really keep up with. It still needs a ton of work to be "right" - partially because the C10 steering kit is such an engineering junk-show to begin with, partly because you are still gilding and spending money on 1957's worn-out parts that were designed well before interstate travel was hitting 80 mph.
Possible caveat there is that if you have really tight kingpin and spindle bores or go with a new drop axle, your junk will probably not buzz like mine does.

[joedoh]

do you mean cheapest or literally the most practical? I dont want to assume one or the other but a lot of people use "practical" when they mean "cheapest"

the most practical way would be to buy a complete donor like mikebte suggests and take out every single part you need to swap over. I have a theory that a wiring harness/drivetrain doesnt inherently KNOW what chassis it is installed in, it just looks for certain inputs, and if you can make sure it has those inputs you will have a working system even with it laying on the ground. in aerospace they call it an "iron bird".

then look at what you cant reuse but need to. for example your donor may be a column shift auto but you cant add that to your stock column. your donor may be EFI but needs the harness pared down and a different gas tank with the same pump. lines may not switch over.

the easy part is mounting, buy or more likely build the mounts.

[Phungki]

Originally Posted by joedoh

do you mean cheapest or literally the most practical? I dont want to assume one or the other but a lot of people use "practical" when they mean "cheapest"

the most practical way would be to buy a complete donor like mikebte suggests and take out every single part you need to swap over. I have a theory that a wiring harness/drivetrain doesnt inherently KNOW what chassis it is installed in, it just looks for certain inputs, and if you can make sure it has those inputs you will have a working system even with it laying on the ground. in aerospace they call it an "iron bird".

then look at what you cant reuse but need to. for example your donor may be a column shift auto but you cant add that to your stock column. your donor may be EFI but needs the harness pared down and a different gas tank with the same pump. lines may not switch over.

the easy part is mounting, buy or more likely build the mounts.

I looked this morning on cl and found many possible donor vehicles with the engine/trans combo I think I want. Even auto with shifter on the floor which I want. What I’m wondering is about the wiring. They sell new harnesses for these truck. The newer the donor truck the more dependent on computer crap. Is there a range of year I should be looking for in a donor? What I want is minimal issues with a new harness and a donor drivetrain. I know I’ll have some.
By practical I mean what makes the most sense. What’s going to be the easiest. I’m in no hurry to have my finished project. This is just something to put my head into and take it off of the normal issues with life. I guess I would call it a hobby.
Thank you
Jason

[mikebte]

Originally Posted by Phungki

I looked this morning on cl and found many possible donor vehicles with the engine/trans combo I think I want. Even auto with shifter on the floor which I want. What I’m wondering is about the wiring. They sell new harnesses for these truck. The newer the donor truck the more dependent on computer crap. Is there a range of year I should be looking for in a donor? What I want is minimal issues with a new harness and a donor drivetrain. I know I’ll have some.
By practical I mean what makes the most sense. What’s going to be the easiest. I’m in no hurry to have my finished project. This is just something to put my head into and take it off of the normal issues with life. I guess I would call it a hobby.
Thank you
Jason

honestly, look for a V8 truck or car, shifter location can be moved no matter the platform. Get a used car or truck and move over everything you want. In my case with the 93 GMC I used the entire cab harness from the 93. I now have courtesy lights, newer wiring, fuel injection and the fuel pump wiring was already in the harness and it was very simple. It will be a little time consuming if you are using the old harness as you have to figure out the locations for wires when doing a custom gauge install.

As for newer engines, the electronics are not bad. Many of them will last a long time and you get the ease of fuel injected start ups and an electronic shift transmission.

If you get a truck as a doner, the cross member may only need shortened and bolted in, the engine mount will be the biggest custom part you have and that is very easy.

You can also use this kit, easy enough.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...etxk/overview/

Also check out other builds. I have taken so many ideas from the folks on here that its crazy. I found that OrrieG used a foot brake pedal out of a 70-80s blazer in his truck. So i adapted the same idea and it was super easy.

Mainly, its your build. Have fun and keep it unique.

[Phungki]

Originally Posted by mikebte

honestly, look for a V8 truck or car, shifter location can be moved no matter the platform. Get a used car or truck and move over everything you want. In my case with the 93 GMC I used the entire cab harness from the 93. I now have courtesy lights, newer wiring, fuel injection and the fuel pump wiring was already in the harness and it was very simple. It will be a little time consuming if you are using the old harness as you have to figure out the locations for wires when doing a custom gauge install.

As for newer engines, the electronics are not bad. Many of them will last a long time and you get the ease of fuel injected start ups and an electronic shift transmission.

If you get a truck as a doner, the cross member may only need shortened and bolted in, the engine mount will be the biggest custom part you have and that is very easy.

You can also use this kit, easy enough.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...etxk/overview/

Also check out other builds. I have taken so many ideas from the folks on here that its crazy. I found that OrrieG used a foot brake pedal out of a 70-80s blazer in his truck. So i adapted the same idea and it was super easy.

Mainly, its your build. Have fun and keep it unique.

Thank you
I have been poking around this forum for awhile trying to decide the best course of action. Trying to decide which way I want to go. I’m still not sure. I know EFI is nice, not sold on it. Kinda like the old school carb. Is figuring out the wiring going to be more difficult using a newer donor compared to an older one? I’ve never done auto wiring. I rewired my whole house tho 😁. Yes I know that it’s completely different lol. I was hoping I could just buy a new harness and plug everything in, ripping out the old as I go. Nothing is that easy. If I was keeping the original motor that would be more if a possibility I’m guessing

[Phungki]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

I started with similar notions about keeping it stock-ish in the front suspension.
My experience is that by the time you add disc brakes, power steering, new bushings, new steering joints, etc you have spent darn near what an IFS might have cost you.
I've got new shackles, rear spring bushings, new king pins, new tie rod, C10 power steering (avoid like plague), disc brakes, tapered roller bearings, 4* caster wedges and probably some other junk into my I-beam front end.

It handles and steers like a boat, parks like a garbage truck and buzzes like a summ***** going down the freeway. With a Chevy 350 & 7004R you will have the power and gearing to go a lot faster than your front end will really keep up with. It still needs a ton of work to be "right" - partially because the C10 steering kit is such an engineering junk-show to begin with, partly because you are still gilding and spending money on 1957's worn-out parts that were designed well before interstate travel was hitting 80 mph.
Possible caveat there is that if you have really tight kingpin and spindle bores or go with a new drop axle, your junk will probably not buzz like mine does.

I’m sure you are right on IFS handling infinitely better then these old things. Maybe one day I’ll go that route but initially I’ll keep the front axel as is. It won’t ever be a daily driver. I will drive it in town, 10 miles to the next town or 25 miles to my parents. Nothing over 55 mph.
Thank you

[Jesse Z]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

I started with similar notions about keeping it stock-ish in the front suspension.

It handles and steers like a boat, parks like a garbage truck and buzzes like a summ***** going down the freeway. With a Chevy 350 & 7004R you will have the power and gearing to go a lot faster than your front end will really keep up with. It still needs a ton of work to be "right" - partly because you are still gilding and spending money on 1957's worn-out parts that were designed well before interstate travel was hitting 80 mph.

Shocking. I've had three I-beam axle trucks and all rode and handled great, both on winding rural roads and at freeway speeds. I can't imagine why you've had those problems but that certainly hasn't been my experience at all.