Made the CPP mistake more than once (I need help)...

[HalfCaseKustoms]

I will try and refrain from going off on CPP **** quality parts and how they were the cause of me crashing my truck... Got her back from the body shop today and the CPP tilt column (that was fine when I dropped it off back in July) is completely sloppy and all over the place... I started taking it apart but can't get the sleeve off to get to the tilt joint. Any help? I can't afford a quality steering column at the moment.

[dmjlambert]

1. Make 100% sure the slop is actually in the steering column before you dig into that (make sure it's not in the rag joint or in a flipped steering center link, or something like that).

2. If you need a steering column on a budget, become a premium member and then you can post want-to-buy ads in the parts section of the forum. I'll bet there are tons of people who have an original non-tilt steering column that you could buy for a reasonable cost, to get you through until you can switch back to a fancy column.

[HalfCaseKustoms]

It's deffinately in the tilt section. The rag joint is new and the shaft going through the firewall to the rag join stays solid. The steering wheel and column shift assembly flops around like a rag doll. Up-down, side to side like a clunky wet noodle

[Overdriven]

New Zealand did a study of aftermarket steering columns to approve for road use years back that showed internals on common aftermarket tilt columns. I forget if one of the units was a cpp or one known to be sold by them but the internals at the tilt were plastic and nothing like a GM design. My point being you’d need to be able to buy replacement parts and if cpp won’t sell you replacement parts there’s not much point in disassembly as it wouldn’t be fixable without replacement parts.

[External]

Sounds bad. Tell me what CPP stands for. Classic performance parts?

[dbm52]

I've never disassembled a non factory tilt column but i've taken apart hundreds of factory gm & chrysler (which are gm) your going to need a special tool like this to collapse the retaining collar, then you can remove the turn signal arm & loosen the turn signal switch & slide the upper column housing up out of the way to gain access to the steering shaft. There are 4 small bolts retaining the upper shaft housing to the lower housing that will need to be tightened. these will require a 1/4" drive 12pt socket. The job is not hard just time consuming

[clay68c10]

The non-locking columns don’t have the retaining collar (lock plate) like the later ones with the key. All you really need is the little puller for the pivot pins.
The cylindrical cover that goes over the turn signal switch and tilt mechanism is a tight slip fit. Sometimes a 3 jaw puller can help remove it.

[p0508]

My cpp column with 1800 miles on it already feels like it has 250,000. They are junk and not worth my time to call them, or attempt to fix it. Flaming river or ididit here I come. Love buying stuff twice.

On a side note, I did laugh the first time I pushed the hazard switch and it broke.

[68 P.O.S.]

Originally Posted by Overdriven

New Zealand did a study of aftermarket steering columns to approve for road use years back that showed internals on common aftermarket tilt columns. I forget if one of the units was a cpp or one known to be sold by them but the internals at the tilt were plastic and nothing like a GM design. My point being you’d need to be able to buy replacement parts and if cpp won’t sell you replacement parts there’s not much point in disassembly as it wouldn’t be fixable without replacement parts.

The report from the study is floating around here on the forum somewhere. CPP is one of the companies they did not recommend because of poor quality (crappy plastic and horrible welds). If I remember correctly, 3 passed, Flaming River, Ididit, and can't remember the 3rd now. I would get rid of that column

[StingRay]

RV columns are a dime a dozen at the wreckers. Getting them out is some work but you typically get a low mile tight genuine GM column. I bet I've pulled 10 of them at my local wrecker. I wouldn't even think of an aftermarket column. I guess if you want chrome maybe but otherwise get a real GM column.

[p0508]

Did they make floor shift rv columns?

[clay68c10]

Not that I’ve seen, but if you want to do some work you can convert an auto into a manual

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by p0508

Flaming river or ididit here I come.

I'm curious why you don't want to get a GM tilt? Any special reason? I believe a properly rebuilt GM tilt can be had for about 5-600...

Brian

[p0508]

Ididit Retrofit Tilt Floor Shift Steering Column 1967-72 Chevy Truck
Part Number: 535-1120657051

My price: $501.01 comes brand new with some fresh black powdercoat.

My time is valuable, difficult to put a monetary value on none the less. The time it would take me to find a column, maybe have to convert it over from column to floor shift. Rebuild it, prep it, re paint it and then install it.

Not only will I have 500 real dollars in it, I will have lots of time in it as well. Just not worth it IMO.

[clay68c10]

Converting one and doing a nice job takes a while. I see it as practice for the body work that I can’t afford to farm out. But, my truck is still in pieces and I can bring parts like the column into work.
I totally get why you would just buy one already done.

[67chevemall]

Cpp = garbage sold by crooks. Stay away

[demian5]

Test fit the stuff from them when you get it home. Not in 6 months when its time to install.

I had many trips and emails and calls with them about the power steering conversion and deluxe track bar on my 60.

I don't think they had ever actually installed the parts on a truck themselves.

[HalfCaseKustoms]

So here's the story... Last winter I installed CPP ball joints (already had the CPP column installed for a year or so). I'm sure some of you have read about the problems with thier ball joints being too tight. Well, one of the first voyages, resulted in a fender bender with a guard rail. The truck has been in the body shop ever since. I just got it back (all new sheet metal on the driver's side, cab repaired, 2 new bumpers and a complete paint job... I can go on about how terrible aftermarket sheet metal is too!) I got it back and the column was trash. I dont know if it happened in the accident or the body shop broke it. Either way it's being covered and an ididit column is on the way... Next is to replace those ball joints. I already have moogs sitting on my bench.

[HalfCaseKustoms]

Here she is

[cornerstone]

Beautiful truck HalfCase. None of my business...... but Im curious if CPP accepted fault and paid for your repairs (at least, I hope)?

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Beautiful truck HalfCase. None of my business...... but Im curious if CPP accepted fault and paid for your repairs (at least, I hope)?

There’s no way they’d accept fault without losing a lawsuit or at least lawyers drawing up a confidential settlement. Legally speaking, if they accepted fault it would open them up to scrutiny from other parties (aka customers) and liability for any loss they incurred using their product. A confidential settlement shields them from that scrutiny and liability since they’re not legally accepting fault and it’s supposed to be confidential.

[HalfCaseKustoms]

Exactly. Not worth my time or dime to try and put fault on Them. The couple times I delt with them on the phone they were not but rude and unhelpful. I can't imagine a legal battle. Insurance covered the accident anyways... Anyway, the Ididit column came in yesterday and I installed it today. What a world of difference in quality and feel. Slowly working the bugs out. Ball joints tomorrow.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by Overdriven

There’s no way they’d accept fault without losing a lawsuit or at least lawyers drawing up a confidential settlement. Legally speaking, if they accepted fault it would open them up to scrutiny from other parties (aka customers) and liability for any loss they incurred using their product. A confidential settlement shields them from that scrutiny and liability since they’re not legally accepting fault and it’s supposed to be confidential.

I figured this to be the case. HalfCase has a valid point as well, it would take some seriously deep pockets to bring it to court. It makes me wonder... how many of their ball joints caused accidents, possibly even loss of life?

One thing I know, my new CPP column is going up for sale before I install it. I might as well do it once and save myself the aggravation these fellas have gone through. In hindsight, this is one of those times when trying to save a few quid ends up costing more.