The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1973 - 1987 Chevrolet & GMC Squarebody Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-23-2020, 11:58 AM   #6176
Gregski
Post Whore
 
Gregski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,802
Re: Restoring Rusty

and here is the driver side, again the bend right before the pipe goes over the rear axle

some day I will take out the grinder and re weld these spots, but not today, though my buddy Pontiac Mike says his pro muffler shop deliberately puts in drip holes in the state of the art exhaust systems they build for their customers to allow the condensation to drain, hmmm, am I on to something here by accident?
Attached Images
 
Gregski is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2020, 12:20 PM   #6177
hatzie
Moderator
 
hatzie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wentworth, NH
Posts: 4,911
Re: Restoring Rusty

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregski View Post
and here is the driver side, again the bend right before the pipe goes over the rear axle

some day I will take out the grinder and re weld these spots, but not today, though my buddy Pontiac Mike says his pro muffler shop deliberately puts in drip holes in the state of the art exhaust systems they build for their customers to allow the condensation to drain, hmmm, am I on to something here by accident?
If it's just a pinhole I'd leave it so the condensation will continue to drain out instead of rotting out the pipe
__________________
1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.
hatzie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2020, 02:46 PM   #6178
SCOTI
Registered User
 
SCOTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,896
Re: Restoring Rusty

Quote:
Originally Posted by hatzie View Post
If it's just a pinhole I'd leave it so the condensation will continue to drain out instead of rotting out the pipe
I started doing just that on muffler shop aluminized set-ups. I would drill a super small hole just to allow condensation somewhere to drain.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
SCOTI is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2020, 04:25 PM   #6179
MikeB
Senior Member
 
MikeB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,378
Re: Restoring Rusty

If you can't hear a pfff, pfff, pfff noise from the holes, they're probably OK as is.
__________________
Mike
1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 34 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes.
1982 C10 SWB -- sold
1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it!
1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming.
Retired as a factory automation products salesman.
Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop.
Member here for 23 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!
MikeB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2020, 12:49 PM   #6180
Gregski
Post Whore
 
Gregski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,802
Re: Restoring Rusty

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeB View Post
If you can't hear a pfff, pfff, pfff noise from the holes, they're probably OK as is.
thanks
Gregski is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2020, 01:02 PM   #6181
Gregski
Post Whore
 
Gregski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,802
Re: Restoring Rusty

so I've been driving myself crazy over the past few months trying to tune out a small Idle Issue I have, not sure it's quite a hunting idle, but here's what the problem is:

Either in park or in drive my RPMs go up 50 or down 50. So I should idle at 550 RPM in Park, well I can see it drop to like 490 or go up to like 590 I also see timing go from 19* where it should be down to 16* or as high as 25*

I understand that the PCM adjusts the timing via the Idle Adaptive Spark Control aka Overspeed and Underspeed to pull the RPMs back to the desired Idle RPM, but I don't know what is causing the RPMs to be off in the first place.

My MAF grams per second may very 5.1 to 5.2 (and the frequency goes from 2527 to 2510 for example) and timing goes 21* to 20* so is that it? is that enough of a change and what can be done to make the MAF less sporatic, is it time for a new MAF?

My MAF is attached to the OEM air intake so it is the stock distance from the throttle body. I am using a cone air filter though i tried the OEM air box and stock air filter as well. Also I tried cleaning my MAF, I also tried a second MAF (same part number) I happen to have a spare and of course I re calibrated it, as it was reading up to 12% lean.

I will probably post this in the LS Swap section as well for better chance of someone seeing it
Attached Images
     

Last edited by Gregski; 01-26-2020 at 01:10 PM.
Gregski is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2020, 11:48 AM   #6182
hatzie
Moderator
 
hatzie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wentworth, NH
Posts: 4,911
Re: Restoring Rusty

What are your O2 sensor readings doing?
Can you graph your Idle speed, MAF, O2, IAC, EGR, Timing and maybe fuel tank pressure along with fuel pressure, if you have those two available, in realtime and log them for playback with your diag package?
__________________
1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.
hatzie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2020, 07:55 PM   #6183
Gregski
Post Whore
 
Gregski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,802
Re: Restoring Rusty

just a quick update spoke to a few pro tuners / instructors, and this appears to be normal, here's a quote from Andre Simon of HP Academy

"Yes that's totally normal. The ignition timing is used to help control the idle speed and as such it will jump around significantly in order to control engine torque."
Gregski is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2020, 12:38 AM   #6184
KQQL IT
At the body shop.
 
KQQL IT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Land of fruits and nuts.
Posts: 5,108
Re: Restoring Rusty

Yours a fly by wire or cable pedal?

Friend did an LS in a c60 with 6 speed and it would stall randomly at lights and ended up having to relearn the pedal parameters
__________________
" That didnt make it any newer "
" Dont antique the equipment "
KQQL IT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2020, 09:11 AM   #6185
Gregski
Post Whore
 
Gregski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,802
Re: Restoring Rusty

Quote:
Originally Posted by KQQL IT View Post
Yours a fly by wire or cable pedal?

Friend did an LS in a c60 with 6 speed and it would stall randomly at lights and ended up having to relearn the pedal parameters
Mine is a cable throttle body, less complex. I've heard of the condition you are describing on drive by wire applications, see Andre from HP Academy explain how to address it here using the

Engine \ Idle \ Airflow \ Effective Area

Percent Max
Percent Max - Brake


217 | Idle Tuning HP Tuners - GM/HP Tuners
Gregski is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2020, 11:43 AM   #6186
Jeramy
Registered User
 
Jeramy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Mulberry, AR
Posts: 222
Re: Restoring Rusty

I have been gone for two years and when I come back to check in and BOOM you done went and done it.

As usual you jumped in with both feet, made a mess and then made it awesome. Rusty is looking great.
__________________
1981 Silverado C10 LS/4l60e
My truck may be loud and ugly but I love her like bacon
Jeramy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2020, 12:21 PM   #6187
Gregski
Post Whore
 
Gregski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,802
Re: Restoring Rusty

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeramy View Post
I have been gone for two years and when I come back to check in and BOOM you done went and done it.

As usual you jumped in with both feet, made a mess and then made it awesome. Rusty is looking great.
Thank you, welcome back to the circus act, and that's what you git for leaving!
Gregski is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2020, 01:01 PM   #6188
Gregski
Post Whore
 
Gregski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,802
Re: Restoring Rusty - Front Brakes Rotors & Pads

looks like I finally get to replace the front brakes on Rusty for the first time

so learned they came in two flavors light duty and heavy duty, I thought I had the heavy duty ones but judging by the bearing part numbers I don't think I do

the original rotors had a nice rubber seal on the inner bearing the new replacement ones don't - shocking!

new pads don't come with the inner pad clip that you snap into the single piston to help you hold the pad in place, and one of my old ones broke so that installation was fun, as a third hand would sure have come in handy, lol
Attached Images
    
Gregski is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2020, 11:57 AM   #6189
hatzie
Moderator
 
hatzie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wentworth, NH
Posts: 4,911
Re: Restoring Rusty

I'm not a fan of the AutoZone or National Chinese bearings. Eastern Europe is just as good as USA made and I'd take Japan, Korea, and Taiwan sourced bearings over those made in mainland China or India. FAG and some SKF bearings are still made outside of China and India... and some Timken taper bearings are still made in the USA or they are old stock.
I just bought six Timken SET6 bearing sets for the tine shafts on three Troy Bilt Horse I tillers and one Horse III tiller that I'm rebuilding along with ten Timken SET2 for the main shafts and eight sets of FAG 6201 bearings etched Poland. The Timken bearings are all etched USA and they cost around $8 each.

The parts guy at AutoZone couldn't find the proper grease seal? It's a separate part.

The GM part number for the grease seal on the 1974 GMC RWD front brakes should be 3857731 if the GM parts books are to be believed.
AC Delco lists 290269 for LD front brake rotor grease seal. That doesn't cross to the GM part number in the 73-78 parts books... It's possible I looked it up incorrectly but it lists 73-78 CP- 2,3, M.H.C and CP-1 on page 943 of the parts book.
__________________
1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.

Last edited by hatzie; 02-24-2020 at 03:34 PM.
hatzie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2020, 12:20 AM   #6190
Factory Guy
Senior Member
 
Factory Guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Midway USA Kentucky
Posts: 536
Re: Restoring Rusty - Rear Bumper Removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregski View Post
one of the first things that had to go was the ugly heavy duty (nothing wrong with) rear bumper. think of this, this way, Rusty was a long time hard working race winning thoroughbred, who has now earned the right to retire on the green pastures and enjoy the easy life (hardest gig he'll ever have is fetching a Christmas tree for us once a year, hee hee)

Umm yeah, I pretty much broke all four big bolts holding on that heavy beast to get it off, I didn't know I had it in me, that type of super human strength (what's that you can clearly see the cheater bar in the pictures, nah)
Only bumper I have seen that matches mine!
Attached Images
 
Factory Guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2020, 04:40 AM   #6191
LT7A
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PNW
Posts: 3,472
Re: Restoring Rusty

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregski View Post
there is a short list of advantages of cold humid days
This cracked me up and I'd appreciate it if you would send me that list. We get to endure plenty of those days here although not as many as some folks. The replies regarding leaving condensation drains in your exhaust pipes makes good sense to me. When you see a car puffing out vapor and then pulling away from the light with water running out the pipes like a garden hose you start thinking that it would be good to have a blowhole at the low point.
LT7A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2020, 09:24 AM   #6192
texxxan
Registered User
 
texxxan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Hooks, Texas
Posts: 163
Re: Restoring Rusty

Wow!! After a full month, I finally reached the end of this thread. I sure hope that this isn't the end by any means. I enjoyed reading and learning all about you and Rusty's mischievous adventures. This is top notch material. Thank you and please carry on. The world is a better place with you and Rusty in it.
texxxan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2020, 10:23 AM   #6193
Gregski
Post Whore
 
Gregski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,802
Re: Restoring Rusty

Quote:
Originally Posted by texxxan View Post
Wow!! After a full month, I finally reached the end of this thread. I sure hope that this isn't the end by any means. I enjoyed reading and learning all about you and Rusty's mischievous adventures. This is top notch material. Thank you and please carry on. The world is a better place with you and Rusty in it.
Ah Mate, that totally made my day! Thank you so much for leaving such a kind note. [so all it took was a World Wide Quarantine, copy that!] and here I was considering selling it (and parlaying the money into a car for my kids), here is a short list of things coming up for Rusty.
1. replace the Intellitronix digital gauges with AutoMeter Sport Comp IIs (the cheapo Intellitronix digital speedo and tach just wigg out for some reason when my turn signals or headlights are on, intermittently [pronounced: hardest to troubleshoot] however the fuel, oil, water, and volts gauges work just fine, all gauges use the same common ground and same common 12v key on, strange!

2. get the OEM bench seat reupholstered professionally using the new foam I stock piled over the years and replace the Dodge Dakota bucket seats I have in there now
Oh, yeah, I almost forgot, here's what's been keeping my knuckles bruised the last few months: A '54 named Busty
Gregski is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2020, 11:07 AM   #6194
texxxan
Registered User
 
texxxan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Hooks, Texas
Posts: 163
Re: Restoring Rusty

Oh, I'm already on page 4 of that thread. The Quarantine has affected many, but I still go to work and come home like always. I am really liking Busty as well, but Rusty has a special place in my heart. I love old cars and trucks and I definitely love learning and then doing. You provide so much motivation. Thank you.
texxxan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2020, 11:22 AM   #6195
Gregski
Post Whore
 
Gregski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,802
Re: Restoring Rusty

Quote:
Originally Posted by texxxan View Post
... I love old cars and trucks and I definitely love learning and then doing...
... hmmm, you don't say: INNOVATE DLG1 Wideband O2 Oxygen Sensor Tuning Diagnostics Logging Air Fuel Ratio etc

this should cure your insomnia or prevent you from getting it, ha ha
Gregski is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2020, 11:44 PM   #6196
MikeB
Senior Member
 
MikeB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,378
Re: Restoring Rusty

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregski View Post
1. replace the Intellitronix digital gauges with [B]AutoMeter Sport Comp IIs. The cheapo Intellitronix digital speedo and tach just wigg out.

2. get the OEM bench seat reupholstered professionally using the new foam I stock piled over the years and replace the Dodge Dakota bucket seats I have in there now
I have used the regular Sport Comp gauges on 3 vehicles over the years, and really like them. You do get what you pay for.

I bought a vinyl seat cover from LMC and had a local shop install it for $150. Makes the interior look like new (except for the door panels).
Attached Images
 
__________________
Mike
1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 34 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes.
1982 C10 SWB -- sold
1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it!
1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming.
Retired as a factory automation products salesman.
Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop.
Member here for 23 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!
MikeB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2020, 11:55 PM   #6197
Gregski
Post Whore
 
Gregski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,802
Re: Restoring Rusty

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeB View Post
I have used the regular Sport Comp gauges on 3 vehicles over the years, and really like them. You do get what you pay for.

I bought a vinyl seat cover from LMC and had a local shop install it for $150. Makes the interior look like new (except for the door panels).
Thanks Mike, I love that clean look of your cab! Do you have a photograph of your AutoMeter gauges in this square?
Gregski is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 09:05 AM   #6198
MikeB
Senior Member
 
MikeB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,378
Re: Restoring Rusty

These are 2-5/8" Sport Comp gauges in a 55 Chevy car I used to have. My 82 truck's are 2-1/16" that are also mounted below the dash. I went with the smaller size because someday I'd like to mount them and two more gauges in place of the idiot lights.

I see where mine are "air core" type, whereas the Sport Comp IIs use a stepper motor. Here's an informative article on gauge types.
http://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerc...tor+gauge+work
Attached Images
 
__________________
Mike
1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 34 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes.
1982 C10 SWB -- sold
1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it!
1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming.
Retired as a factory automation products salesman.
Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop.
Member here for 23 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!
MikeB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 09:17 AM   #6199
MikeB
Senior Member
 
MikeB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,378
Re: Restoring Rusty

Just shot this photo of my truck's gauges, and just had to brag on my cell phone holder and USB charger.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Mike
1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 34 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes.
1982 C10 SWB -- sold
1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it!
1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming.
Retired as a factory automation products salesman.
Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop.
Member here for 23 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!
MikeB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 09:32 AM   #6200
Gregski
Post Whore
 
Gregski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,802
Re: Restoring Rusty

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeB View Post
These are 2-5/8" Sport Comp gauges in a 55 Chevy car I used to have. My 82 truck's are 2-1/16" that are also mounted below the dash. I went with the smaller size because someday I'd like to mount them and two more gauges in place of the idiot lights.

I see where mine are "air core" type, whereas the Sport Comp IIs use a stepper motor. Here's an informative article on gauge types.
http://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerc...tor+gauge+work
Thanks Mike, I love that stick thang poking out of the floor, (yeah you try to show me the gauges and me the idiot is staring at all the other stuff in that cabin, ha ha) and yeah I learned all about the little gauges and how they come in the smaller size ie the 2 1/6th like my current Intellitronix which are a tad too small for our Squarebodies, and then the slightly bigger 2 5/8th like my new AutoMeter (pronounced: Expensive) ha ha ones

The problem I have with AutoMeter is that they give you 90% of what you want with any of their product lines, like for example you love the black face and the white lettering but then they give you stupid red needles, or you love the gauge but it don't come with a black bazel but silver and sure they'll custom paint it for you for $25 bucks per gauge, I know that for a fact cause I called them and we had words, hee hee

appreciate the link, yeah I still don't get all the stepper motor and different gauge technology I think I need take an AutoMeter night class at the local junior college or online
Gregski is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com