47-55.1 Project "Bickle" 1948 1/2 ton 4.3 4l60e

[twinshadows]

Like you need another (car) project . . . . . cool, anyways . . . ..
(right up there with the "Lebon - Levi" look) .
I liked the Flickr vid ; worked good for me . . . . (click on the picture,
click on the starter) . . . . . "simple" . Sounds great.



'OutlawDrifter' . . . . . "ain't nothing wrong with them 'IH - COE' . . .
very cool trucks (in their own style) .

later, jim

[joedoh]

slow going, parts arriving haha. got the carpet and chopped off a 2ft piece so the back of the seat will match the floor. it was between tan and black for carpet, glad I did the tan.



gauges showed up, did electrical speedo version. gps may be easier to calibrate but I have a pcm with a 4000 ppm output, and I didnt like the idea of the receiver on the dash.



did the intake coupler on the staff car, wide-open-throttle works again, still a slight idle miss though.



put a gallon of xylene in the 1/2 tank and went to drive the stuffing out of it for a bit. while I was out I stopped at the salvage for a driveshaft, he had one, $40 with must be recent u joints because they were no stock and very tight! woot!



I had a 51" driveshaft but needed 53". local driveshaft shop wanted 225 to lengthen my 51 and put on new joints. this one was 40 bucks, all in, had the correct type of rear ujoint I needed, because the driveshaft flange showed up too. I was going to use an 8.8 ford flange because the bolt circle is the same, but the center bore is much smaller, so I had to order this part ($47!! would have needed it with any driveshaft)




had some fun getting the caps on far enough to let the clips go on but eventually they went.

stopped by to see the seat and nothing yet. looks like I dont have a monopoly on slacking haha.

[Scott2]

I think you said what your source for carpet is before but I can’t find it - mind sharing it again? I replaced my floor with flat panels and no riser so I need a big squarish piece I can cut to fit.

Thanks!

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Scott2

I think you said what your source for carpet is before but I can’t find it - mind sharing it again? I replaced my floor with flat panels and no riser so I need a big squarish piece I can cut to fit.

Thanks!

sure, its yourautotrim.com, they have carpet and jute pad kits found here. https://www.yourautotrim.com/caandcapadki.html

I use the 5000 series latex backed, my friend dan used the performance series and liked how stretchy it was. you can also just buy the carpet by the yard but I like having the jute with it. and they sell foil backed jute too.

the dimensions I give for the floor is that its 57 inches wide at the back of the door, 52 inches wide at the front of the door, 33 inches apart.

[FAKKY]

Nice find on the driveshaft !!. Yeah mine cost right at $300 out the door for a 8.8 3" with 1350 joints.

On the carpet - how hard is it lay down over tunnel and other things and get looking right.
Just weighing up your route or the pre-fab route
https://www.ocautocarpets.com/produc...-holes-molded/

[youngrodder]

Your moving right along. I like upholstery projects....I have used Miami corp in the past as well. I know a lot of upholstery shops buy from there was well.

https://www.miamicorp.com/

Marc

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Nice find on the driveshaft !!. Yeah mine cost right at $300 out the door for a 8.8 3" with 1350 joints.

On the carpet - how hard is it lay down over tunnel and other things and get looking right.
Just weighing up your route or the pre-fab route
https://www.ocautocarpets.com/produc...-holes-molded/

I dont usually have a big trans tunnel so mostly flat works for me. the jute helps to smooth things out too.

acc mats is a great company, I think over the last 25 years I have bought 6 carpets from them for various truck projects, its always been very high quality and their forming is perfect. if you have a stock floor you wont be disappointed.

[joedoh]

put the driveshaft in, 53" is a perfect fit! 1" stickout (you cant see it with the balance ring but if you want to imagine it you can)




I like the ability to use the rearend with the flange pinion. all other body styles use the cap style pinion, but the ext cab 98+ uses that flange so it can have a double cardan joint (that always goes bad). in the future I think I will see if I can use a 13R type inside clip u joint on the last piece of the double cardan. if you need one of these though, the part number is N3R-2-8268 and its called a Neapco drive shaft flange yoke. I think GM 4x4 use it on the front driveshafts more commonly.


trimmed the front wall of the s10 bed floor and fit it to the front wall of the AD.



its a little crooked yet but with some tapping it will fit. I will weld it in and finish the bed completely. its bolted on and the filler neck is on and done too.

I was going to leave the orange peeley dash but I decided to wet sand it and respray it. it looks super classy now.



stopped working long enough to... *SIGH*.




I know I know. I swore it would be cold somewhere very hot before I did another pre war, but nick (I did his 54 over christmas) wants to put this on an S10 frame and I would like to make foldable mounts to sell, so we will help each other out I guess. I want to do one more AD/S10 (maybe two depending on the speed of my kit) and then I will start a new project (A SHORT PROJECT) in the early truck forum for this. I call it REGRETS.

[oldman3]

Lets us know when that one starts...Jim

[Palf70Step]

Fer Sure

[joedoh]

ugh, I cant stand working on prewars, the two I did almost killed me. everything is so different in production quality and especially HOLES being in the SAME PLACE TRUCK TO TRUCK with the AD series. I do love them though. my favorite was fenix, I should have kept that one.



my brother in pa sent me this picture of an ad at a swap meet/cruise in. I thought it was sectioned at first but it looks like it just has a healthy channel.




braaaakes. ugh. the bleeders were stuck in the calipers, had to replace perfectly good parts. its like a pineapple enema, just gets more exciting (painful) as it stretches on.



lights! headlights and LED turns are wired, used the factory s10 harness, no extension! I will install the headlights tomorrow, it will have a "face" again.




testing wheel fitment, looks good to me! its on jackstands so it will be quite a bit lower.

[OutlawDrifter]

Fenix was definitely a sharp ride!

[28TudorAZ]

Funny how you are teasing us with small pictures of how its going to look. Looking great by the way.

[joedoh]

haha it isnt teasing, its my 19x19 garage, I cant back up much. built 8 trucks in here though, this is 9. gonna be a couple more.

I went to a city hall meeting yesterday and I should run for government. they were talking about our gravel (dirt) road and kept calling it a gravel road, its a dirt road, in 10 years I have only seen rip rap poured on a short section that was like a slip and slide in the rain. they were responding to a owner petition for reclaimed asphalt, which I didnt sign when it came around because it was BLOW-NEY. nothing will hang around when the base is sand/dirt. anyway, their proposal was 100 lots pay 200 each one time to pay the 200k cost.


no kidding. that was their math. I raised my hand and asked who would pay the other 180k. the mayor and city manager and city engineer all looked at each other.


anyway. in other news, closing on the new new property tuesday, all the hoop jumping is done. that will be a nice 24x24 I cant work in either hahaha. it would be funnier if it werent so gut-punching. I mean sad.

so finished the lights today, the 98+ s10 has a ground triggered headlight system with separate bulbs, and the drl is on the high beam so you couldnt use a 3 prong 7" sealed beam without a whooole lotta relays. I order these VW 2 chamber lights with separate H4 and H3 bulbs, wire the low beam to the H4 and the high to the H3, and viola. DRLs work, no blown fuses. they also have adjusters so I just chop the backs off the old headlight buckets to keep the trim ring mount.



I think this is actually a ford trim ring. need to stop by storage and pick one up.



a nice piece of kydex for an air director, woop woop



works!




I took a picture of the fender to the wall of color at menards, the nice guy I got the fenders from had sanded one halfway I guess to assess how quickly he wanted to sell them (hi craig!) I was going to leave it but sunburst yellow is a good match, dont worry about the tiger stripes I am sanding the whole truck with 600 so I left it thin enough to sand through.



I would have it on the ground again but the tie rod castle nut on the passenger side needs replaced (OR WELDED HAHAHA KIDDING PROBABLY NOT). its always something.

[oldman3]

Keeping busy Russ, things look good...Jim

[Desert1957]

Russ, is this headlight trim ring mount replaceable? both mine are broken away. It appears to be rivet on.

[joedoh]

thanks jim, nice to hear from you!


I havent ever seen a part like that available, it may exist though.

all of my headlight buckets are usually trashed, even that lighted front clip wall hanger the adjusters were broken. so if your adjusters are broken and that piece is broken, you might need new buckets. if your adjusters work and you are just missing the clip, you could just build that little piece and weld it on then position the trim ring and mark for the hole, thats the way I would do it.

[joedoh]

fixed the tie rod. the castle nut wasnt coming off, it would spin loose then tight, just like trying to tighten it. I got the bright idea to use my ball joint popper to provide a little tension on the stud and it worked. the new castle nut was mostly cotter gaps, and was probably tenuous threads at best, so I bought a replacement that had more meat.




put the 20s and the rear fenders on and dropped it off the jack stands. this right here is why I prefer shortening an ext cab frame.



my fender repaint looks a lot better than the bare sections it had.



bolted up and welded on the running boards too. wiped it down and stood in the corner for the picture 28tudor!



I would like it done by the weekend, like DONE done, we will see where I get tomorrow, need to bolt on the door and the hood, install the glass and gauges, and wait wait wait for my seat.

[oldman3]

Tire and wheel fit great, nice looking ride...Jim

[8man]

Joe, that tire is dead on. Looks good. Good luck on the Done done!

[OutlawDrifter]

Very sharp!

[youngrodder]

The truck looks great back on all 4's.....Nice work.

[joedoh]

thanks all!

putting the door on needed some work, the truck sat for a long time in a field with the door open swinging in the wind. it crushed the cowl and broke the hinge. I fixed the hinge earlier and replaced the cowl, but the door still had a bunch of tears in it that made the door really wiggly. I stitched up the tears, there were these big ones here and even more in the jamb where the door body met the skin.



the door shut SUPER TIGHT, only took a moment to realize why.



I guess after the door damaging the cowl it didnt want to shut without a whole bag of washers in the latch. I took those out and readjusted the door



still needs a little movement, I will fiddle with it more because the striker is worn out too.

got the hood on though. truck needs an altitude adjustment in my opinion, I am thinking 2" in the front and maybe an inch in the back. but I will drive it around first, it should drop an inch with some driving after being on jacks for a couple weeks.





the red dot on the door is the "scrap" mark, this truck was on its way to the crusher when I agreed to buy the cab and front end. I might sand it off but I might leave it too.

tomorrow glass and gauges and headliner if I get to it.

[oldman3]

Getting close now...Jim

[mongocanfly]

Looking good Russ