Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

He is going to get back to me on the part number of the lower ball joint. No he did not buy a kit. There is no need for that when you can simply buy all the parts at your local auto parts store except for the spindles. As far as I know it is just a '73-'87 C20 lower ball joint........they are all the same.

Where do you get the spindles? Wrecking yard?

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by Asshat

Where do you get the spindles? Wrecking yard?

It will probably be fairly easy to get them from a junkyard type place. Maybe you'll get lucky and get some with good calipers and rotors

[SCOTI]

When you get the spindle assemblies, get the Center-Link/Drag-Link in case you need it.

[Captainfab]

Whether you find the donor truck in a wrecking yard or from a private party, that is the easiest, simplest and most cost effective way to upgrade to power steering and brakes. There is no need to make it more difficult than it is. Unless you just have to have that $$$ aftermarket conversion kit.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Whether you find the donor truck in a wrecking yard or from a private party, that is the easiest, simplest and most cost effective way to upgrade to power steering and brakes. There is no need to make it more difficult than it is. Unless you just have to have that $$$ aftermarket conversion kit.

Curious abut the bracket for the power steering pump - is there one available for the 292?

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Asshat

Curious abut the bracket for the power steering pump - is there one available for the 292?

Look here:

https://davisspeedequipment.com/prod...y/1975-89-292/

[Captainfab]

That link to Davis speed was posted a couple weeks ago in your own thread you started

Originally Posted by Asshat

Curious abut the bracket for the power steering pump - is there one available for the 292?

Originally Posted by aggie91

Look here:

https://davisspeedequipment.com/prod...y/1975-89-292/

[Asshat]

The truck shop has these spindles for a C20, $279.
That’s not too expensive, right?

[Asshat]

I also noticed they have conversion spindles, but only for C10.

A C20 rotor will not fit on a C10 spindle?

[cwcarpenter98]

Those stock height spindles are the same as ones you can find from a junkyard truck. You can probably get junkyard spindles for $50-$100 depending on what all you purchase along with. IMO, there's no need to buy new, stock height spindles. If the bearing surface of the spindle looks good and clean, it will last a long time as long as you keep the bearings nice and greasy

No, a c20 rotor will not fit on a c10 spindle

[Asshat]

I’m starting to re-think this, maybe I should convert my rear end to 5 lug (it is currently a 1983 C20 14 bolt 8 lug). Then change the front to the spindles for 5 lug.
This would be easily, right?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Asshat

I’m starting to re-think this, maybe I should convert my rear end to 5 lug (it is currently a 1983 C20 14 bolt 8 lug). Then change the front to the spindles for 5 lug.
This would be easily, right?

It's just as easy as leaving it 8-lug. It all depends on what you ultimately want and/or need.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

It's just as easy as leaving it 8-lug. It all depends on what you ultimately want and/or need.

It doesn’t matter to me, in the end, if the truck was 5 lug or 8 lug. It just seems that there are so many more parts available for the 5 lug setups. Such as wheels, etc.

The goal is to have disc brakes and power steering.
Really trying to find the least expensive and simplest way to do a disc brake conversion and power steering upgrade. Want to look at the big picture rather than just one aspect of the goal.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Asshat

It doesn’t matter to me, in the end, if the truck was 5 lug or 8 lug. It just seems that there are so many more parts available for the 5 lug setups. Such as wheels, etc.

The goal is to have disc brakes and power steering.
Really trying to find the least expensive and simplest way to do a disc brake conversion and power steering upgrade. Want to look at the big picture rather than just one aspect of the goal.

Definitely more choices for 5-lug setups if you don't need the heavier-duty capability of a 3/4 ton truck.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Asshat

It doesn’t matter to me, in the end, if the truck was 5 lug or 8 lug. It just seems that there are so many more parts available for the 5 lug setups. Such as wheels, etc.

The goal is to have disc brakes and power steering.
Really trying to find the least expensive and simplest way to do a disc brake conversion and power steering upgrade. Want to look at the big picture rather than just one aspect of the goal.

I am estimating to convert my 63 C20 to FRONT disc brakes, it would cost about $550, if I purchased new spindles.
$300 Spindles (NEW from the truck shop)
$100 Rotors (NEW Rock Auto)
$60 Calipers (NEW Rock Auto)
$25 Brake Pads (NEW Rock Auto)
$50 Misc tie rods, ball joints

I guess I may as well keep it all 8-lug, since it would probably cost a lot more to convert to the 5 lug. And, i could keep the rear setup as drums for a while.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Asshat

I am estimating to convert my 63 C20 to FRONT disc brakes, it would cost about $550, if I purchased new spindles.
$300 Spindles (NEW from the truck shop)
$100 Rotors (NEW Rock Auto)
$60 Calipers (NEW Rock Auto)
$25 Brake Pads (NEW Rock Auto)
$50 Misc tie rods, ball joints

I guess I may as well keep it all 8-lug, since it would probably cost a lot more to convert to the 5 lug. And, i could keep the rear setup as drums for a while.

An 8-lug disc swap should be fairly easy to do from a wrecking yard donor or other used sources. That being said, sometimes time is money & new stuff can ultimately get you to the goal-line faster.

I usually try the used/dismantlers as my first option if it's an upgrade requiring 'supporting' pieces (clips, backing plates, hardware) that you usually can't get with 'new' aftermarket parts.

[Captainfab]

To change the rear to 5 lug you will either have to find a different rear end and change that AGAIN, or spend about $400-500 on a set of custom axles for your 9.5" 14 bolt.

[Asshat]

Regarding the PS gear, I was considering one from Rock Auto, like this one. It is 3 to 3-1/4 turns. Would this be ok to use? Special idler arm required? My front cross member is from a 1974 C20, so I am planning on ordering tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm and steering gear from a 1974 pickup.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=908&jsn=908

Regarding the PS pump - there seems to be pumps that had a reservoir and others that did not. Can anyone elaborate on the pros/cons of both?
Also, that PS bracket for the 292 seems to have a lot of different configurations; the website from Davis Speed Equipment shows different water pump options from 75-89. Can I run a different waterpump on my 292? Is that the only advanctage/requirement, capability of runnig the PS pump?

And, do I need a PS control valve?

[Captainfab]

What is the application for that steering box? In 1980 the fitting style changed from SAE to Metric with an o-ring. If you want to use the entire '74 steering linkage, you must locate, drill holes and bolt up the '74 C20 idler arm. I do not have a template for the C20 idler arm, only the C10 idler arm. Just get ps pump with an integral reservoir. Does Davis Speed Equip not have the PS pump brackets for the early 292 like you have?

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

What is the application for that steering box? In 1980 the fitting style changed from SAE to Metric with an o-ring. If you want to use the entire '74 steering linkage, you must locate, drill holes and bolt up the '74 C20 idler arm. I do not have a template for the C20 idler arm, only the C10 idler arm. Just get ps pump with an integral reservoir. Does Davis Speed Equip not have the PS pump brackets for the early 292 like you have?

That PS pump that I pasted is for a 74 C20, with a 292.
I don’t think Davis has what I need - I just want the stock PS pump bracket. They have some strange configurations and it looks like I would have to change my water pump.

I have the front frame section that the C20 front clip came from, so I should be able to make a template for the idler arm.

I’m just trying to confirm, if I buy all the PS pump, gear and hoses for a 74 C20, it will work. Is this a pretty safe conclusion?

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

What is the application for that steering box? In 1980 the fitting style changed from SAE to Metric with an o-ring. If you want to use the entire '74 steering linkage, you must locate, drill holes and bolt up the '74 C20 idler arm. I do not have a template for the C20 idler arm, only the C10 idler arm. Just get ps pump with an integral reservoir. Does Davis Speed Equip not have the PS pump brackets for the early 292 like you have?

So, if I am correct, it seems this bracket from Davis will work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10004-PS-PO....m46890.l49292

Saw this on eBay, seems like the best option.

[lowroder]

What's everyone using on 62 c10s.
I'm looking to upgrade mine an not sure to go dropped spindle an disc brakes or go with a swap.
Keeping original 6cyl.
An wanting to lower it all around. Keeping it all 6 lug.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lowroder

What's everyone using on 62 c10s.
I'm looking to upgrade mine an not sure to go dropped spindle an disc brakes or go with a swap.
Keeping original 6cyl.
An wanting to lower it all around. Keeping it all 6 lug.

If you want it lower & want to upgrade to disc brakes, drop spindles are a good choice. Drop from the raised spindle pin height doesn't negatively impact spring travel & they're disc brake ready. Just search for a 'kit' for your model & go from there.

Check out the disc brake conversion posts in the FAQ --> Suspension section of the web site.

[Asshat]

Does anyone know the tolerance for C20 brake rotor thickness? One of my rotors is gouged.
Hope I don’t have to buy new rotors - these are expensive!

[Asshat]

For your reading enjoyment...

Is a Master Cylinder Change Required in Drum to Disk Conversion?
We have been asked a number of times if there is such a thing as a manual disk brake conversion kit? The simple answer is yes. The power booster component almost exclusively affects how your brake pedal "feels" to you under foot.

In a situation where your classic car has multiple drivers, some of whom are used to the "foot feel" of power brakes - maybe they spend most of their time driving a newer car or light truck - a power-assisted brake pedal can makes it easier to go between vehicles. The power booster allows you to maintain relative consistency with how much pressure to apply when stopping either of the two vehicles.

You DO NOT NEED to upgrade or convert to a power assisted apply system, however, when making the upgrade to disc from drum brakes. Recently, we got an email from a customer planning on making that drum to disc brake conversion but interested in sticking with a manual set-up.

"Dave" has a '66 GTO he uses as a daily driver and wanted the enhanced performance and stopping ability of disc brakes. But as the sole driver of the car, Dave was comfortable with the pedal effort the manual brakes currently required and wanted to keep that same level of brake feel.

His question centered around the fact that he had bought a master cylinder approximately five years ago in an effort to make the car safer by getting rid of the single bowl master cylinder. At that point, he was only concerned with that safety factor of the master cylinder. Things change and now he is interested in converting over the last step of safer brakes and going with a disc brake conversion kit. We were able to go back and look at his previous purchases and did find out that we had in fact sold him the proper master cylinder that will allow him to keep the same master cylinder while doing the disc brake conversion.

Let's assume for a minute though that we didn't have access to Dave's previous purchase. How can you tell if your master is appropriately sized to operate a new (disc brake) system? The bore size is critical when selecting a master cylinder for use in either a power or manual apply brake system. The wrong size master cylinder added to a power assist set-up could actually provide for a pedal feel that is even harder than what a well working manual system would ever provide. Measuring a master cylinder bore size is actually quite easy for most folks. A quality ruler is generally all that is needed. After pulling the master cylinder forward on the studs, measure the inside of the bore on the back of the master cylinder. In general - the smaller the bore size, the more line pressure you will have in the system at a particular pedal effort. Conversely, larger bore size gives less movement of calipers for the same foot pressure and therefore almost always translates into what most would consider a hard pedal.

Here comes a pitch for calling in an expert to ask the question. With your measurement in hand, call us at 1-800-382-9772 and ask the question: “will this be appropriately sized for my vehicle?” We're here to help you appropriately size brake components.

https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/master...isk-conversion