How you figure to remove this here plug?

[57taskforce]

I recommend this one, I have one and use it daily. It’s nasty when you need it to be and gentle where it counts. Its compact design is great for getting into tighter places like under the hood.


https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tool...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by franken

WD40 isn't penetrating oil and I have no idea why anyone has/uses it. WD means water displacement.
As for the plug, I'd put an impact on it as others have mentioned. Might try tightening and loosening alternately.

I have been saying that for years but they do make a penetrating oil now.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...randName=WD-40

You have to scroll down a little to read the description on it.

As long as a person makes sure they have the actual Penetrating oil and not the original stuff they should be OK. I haven't tried it so no recommendations.

The original product works great for drying out the inside and outside of distributor caps and other electrical components. I use it after pressure washing engines.

LockDoc

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

I recommend this one, I have one and use it daily. It’s nasty when you need it to be and gentle where it counts. Its compact design is great for getting into tighter places like under the hood.


https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tool...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Noted, thanks Taskforce.



I agree WD-40 isn't a penetrating oil to some measure. Forgot I have Deep Creep in the garage, will give it a go too.

[Rickjz]

If you are able to run the engine, start it up and get it warm first. That’ll help free it up.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

So I tried everything above less an extractor - nothin'

I ended up with a 3/8" stubby, I think it's the same impact as the M18, just shaped differently less battery power. Nice it comes with two batteries, one twice the other & spare parts for the 35 ft. lb. I'd bought for another occasion.

Props to the 3/8" fitting with no ball, everything clean until the end. Last resort I torched the plug again, I won't say red hot, but over a minute a few times with a clear shot. The plug laughed at the Stubby all along the way. What finally ripped the plug's head was a 1/2" ratchet and pipe behind it, but didn't need the pipe the plug had enough. I must have sprayed it 6-7 times penetrating oil, tried the wax too. The time to have removed it was when this was on the stand or before I pulled the block.

So I'm looking for a machinist etc. who knows they can extract it cleanly. Beyond that I'll let sleeping dogs lie, because if say the threads are somehow mended together at this point? I can just picture the threads are ruined or the head has to come off for another reason. Next thing you know I arrive at a full rebuild, what fun and get to find new heads too, all because of a temp. sender is in the wrong head

Not happy about it, purpose for the "restoration" was a restoration. I wonder if the engine rebuild is still under warranty?

[Accelo]

The warranty would not cover the stuck plug.
If it was mine I would have drained the coolant and heated the area with a torch.
Then used a 1/2 breaker bar with a SnapOn 1/2" to 3/8" reducer on the end.
I have had good luck with this method. No penetrate is going to work on sealed threads.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Accelo

The warranty would not cover the stuck plug.
If it was mine I would have drained the coolant and heated the area with a torch.
Then used a 1/2 breaker bar with a SnapOn 1/2" to 3/8" reducer on the end.
I have had good luck with this method. No penetrate is going to work on sealed threads.

I was kidding, that block was built in 1993 I doubt Mickey cares RIP.

I used a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer as well. If anything I didn't torch it red hot. Lit my valve cover on fire though I installed an old one for the occasion.

[Rick Bollinger]

Be careful with that 3/8 M18 Milwaukee stuby. That little thing is a brute Start with the low setting on the base and move up from there. That thing can strip 1/2" bolts.
Edit Seen I was a little late on this Some how missed the last 2 posts

[toolboxchev]

Getting that thing out is going to be messy no matter what on that nice superbly clean block.

Heat and Cold, Tighten and Loosen, then Impact Driver, whether it be a powered unit or handheld with smacking it with a Hammer.

The Hammer trick alone does work on occasion. Starting with the least amount of force and work up from there.

Have an original intake manifold thermostat housing bolt strip out years ago. I used my shop vac to get all the drill tailings out after tapping for heli coil. Not fun and would hate to find this situation on that head.

That area in the intake manifold had simply crumbled apart when I took the original bolt out. Some of the cleaning additives I put in the motor to flush the cooling system most likely caused this to happen to me.

Worse case scenario is to crack the casting or have it rusted in there so badly you have to drill and tap out. A bit nerve racking IMHO.

[60case]

drain coolant to below plug heat plug red hot put candle on plug by threads let plug cool plug will come out easy I use this on brake bleeders and stuck plugs all the time

[terry b]

Drain coolant, clean the plug with a dremal tool to bear metal,weld 3\8 drive extension to plug with wire welder, hit extension with hammer while still hot from welding install handel and back out.

[palallin]

If you have to drill, use left-hand bits. If everything works just right, the bit itself will catch and spin the plug out. If not, you still have the hole you need.

[Troy Sr]

It would probably be easier and cleaner to just swap the heads!!!

[MikeB]

I've removed several pipe plugs over the years using flutes. Drill the proper size hole, tap in the flute, and turn with a large crescent wrench. The plugs always come out. You may have to remove the exhaust manifold and valve cover.

On another note, many of the wiring kits, like AAW Classic Update Series, have extra long wires, so you may be able to use the sender on the passenger side head w/o splicing wires.

https://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrenc...actor-set.html

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by MikeB

I've removed several pipe plugs over the years using flutes. Drill the proper size hole, tap in the flute, and turn with a large crescent wrench. The plugs always come out. You may have to remove the exhaust manifold and valve cover.

On another note, many of the wiring kits, like AAW Classic Update Series, have extra long wires, so you may be able to use the sender on the passenger side head w/o splicing wires.

https://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrenc...actor-set.html

That's what I'm doing, committed to using the RH head I called back & asked for extra five feet, better too long. I forgot about flutes, used them before with good success.

My fear is if something goes wrong it's not worth rebuilding this, because if I pull her again for a new head due bad threads that's probably what I'd do at this point. Move plug or rebuild engine, yikes......It's a good engine, or was, she's in been in hibernation 4 years now.

I'll probably wire it behind the heads using the spare holes on top. By some measure it's cleaner, because you spare the wire from the stove pipe and the RH port is closer to the firewall. Small constellation

Recently heard about freezing, didn't try it. Anyway the plug still looks pretty good, it's more the inside that stripped, props the 3/8" fitting, took it all and was kind to the plug.

I wanted to mention, HUGE props por-15 engine paint. I torched the spot well, twice. Thought I saw some melting but it was just oil and wax. The paint held up better than I'd imagine. Little touch up to do yet, most of this debris. I'll clean up the plug some before paint, but the stove pipe shields it anyway

Yeah, valve cover caught fire I can still blow out some candles I guess

[MikeB]

The welding tricks are like bringing an AR15 to a pocket knife fight!

At least it's only paint!

[terry b]

Didn't turn out to good!

[terry b]

Try the AR.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by terry b

Didn't turn out to good!

You got that right While cleaning up for the LH valve cover I see "PASS" or something like on the head underneath. I realized the reason the builder put it on the LH side was due someone busted grade 8 bolt. I ended up drilling it out, was a real bastard. Ended up tapping the hole 7/16", though the hole isn't used at the rear anyway.

Good as "new"

[dmjlambert]

So are you putting a temperature sender in that hole?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

So are you putting a temperature sender in that hole?

HECK no, plug is frozen. I ordered a longer wire for the other side. Weighed the risk of damaging the head Vs a sender on the wrong side, choice wasn't all that easy If I'd thought about it I'd have drilled for what's in post 39. Seems the success rate would be good, but something about visualizing busted threads in the head turned me away.

[Grumpy old man]

It won ... You know , 71SHORTBED402 Doesn't really roll of the tongue like some nicknames do, So Now lets just change it to Headbolt !

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

It won ... You know , 71SHORTBED402 Doesn't really roll of the tongue like some nicknames do, So Now lets just change it to Headbolt !

Agree, my handle sucks. Headbolt can be my nick.