Battery Cable terminations?

[Grumpy old man]

Build your own .

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/?gc...SAAEgKfjfD_BwE

[SRU1436]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Build your own .

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/?gc...SAAEgKfjfD_BwE

I used this company for the battery cables on my chevelle. Great quality cables and connections. I will use them again for my C10.

[Hatzman]

Hello!

I placed my battery tray on the frame rail behind the passenger side of the cab. I ran the ground all the way to the block. I also ran the power to the starter and then to a bulkhead I made and mounted mega fuses to it. The bulkhead his hidden on the inside of the frame rail opposite the power steering box. I have attached photos for reference.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by Hatzman

Hello!

I placed my battery tray on the frame rail behind the passenger side of the cab. I ran the ground all the way to the block. I also ran the power to the starter and then to a bulkhead I made and mounted mega fuses to it. The bulkhead his hidden on the inside of the frame rail opposite the power steering box. I have attached photos for reference.

I have to ask WHY ? What happens when the battery goes dead or the fuse blows ? Do you lay on the ground to hook up jumper cables or call a wrecker
? With all that wire length is there a parasitic drain ?

[Hatzman]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

I have to ask WHY ? What happens when the battery goes dead or the fuse blows ? Do you lay on the ground to hook up jumper cables or call a wrecker
? With all that wire length is there a parasitic drain ?

The battery box I installed drops down and everything is within reach. I did not want to battery in the engine bay. I cleared everything out that didn’t need to be there. There is no drain with longer wires. If a fuse blows, I can reach down from underneath and change it out. The price I am going to pay to have a clean engine bay.
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[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by Hatzman

The battery box I installed drops down and everything is within reach. I did not want to battery in the engine bay. I cleared everything out that didn’t need to be there. There is no drain with longer wires. If a fuse blows, I can reach down from underneath and change it out. The price I am going to pay to have a clean engine bay.
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Buy good insurance ,

[Hatzman]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Buy good insurance ,

I am confident I will be okay. Did the board give you that name or you came up with it all on your own? 😉
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[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

I have to ask WHY ? What happens when the battery goes dead or the fuse blows ? Do you lay on the ground to hook up jumper cables or call a wrecker
? With all that wire length is there a parasitic drain ?

I'm locating mine between the frame rails boxed in on the crossmember just behind the rear axle. Why? To help with weight transfer to plant the 30 x 14" slicks. It's a racing mod relocating 50+ pounds where it can lower the CG and help plant the rear end at launch. Here's the kit I'm using and pay close attention to the use of a Ford style remote starter solenoid. This keeps the starter wire dead until you energize it at start up. (It's a safety mod!) Use the frame for ground. This mod also allows you to install the required emergency power cut off switch at the rear of the vehicle closer to the battery. Read this...
http://madelectrical.com/catalog/tm-1.shtml

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

I'm locating mine between the frame rails boxed in on the crossmember just behind the rear axle. Why? To help with weight transfer to plant the 30 x 14" slicks. It's a racing mod relocating 50+ pounds where it can lower the CG and help plant the rear end at launch. Here's the kit I'm using and pay close attention to the use of a Ford style remote starter solenoid. This keeps the starter wire dead until you energize it at start up. (It's a safety mod!) Use the frame for ground. This mod also allows you to install the required emergency power cut off switch at the rear of the vehicle closer to the battery. Read this...
http://madelectrical.com/catalog/tm-1.shtml

Don't disagree but 2 things:
1-"Ford" solenoid is fine for a starter, but is not continuous rated. The kit doesn't use it that way, but somebody might try to use one to disconnect all power downstream. There are continuous rated solenoids available if somebody wants to do that.
2-I know there are a lot of people with remote batteries that rely on the frame for ground. I come from the heavy truck industry. They (and heavy equipment too) mostly pull a full size ground from battery to starter. Is it necessary? Maybe not, but starting performance is maximized. I would at least run a same size or 1 size smaller dedicated ground from battery to starter or block in addition to a frame ground. Ground wires are some of the most overlooked wires in automotive.

[HO455]

Are you planning on using a mid-plate to mount the engine? That will change your engineering.

How fast are you planning to cover the quarter mile?

I won't deny running a separate ground to the starter has its positive points but, in a race car the weight of the 2nd cable would be the overriding factor in that decision. At least it has been on my cars.