1987 GMC V1500 Sierra Classic LS swap/build

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by NorCalAnthony

You may be able to talk the parts guy at your local dealership into price matching gmpartsdirect like a few other people on here have done with other misc items. Assuming they can find a set at a sister dealership or have other suppliers than gmpartsdirect that is... If not you can also check out the classifieds on ls1tech.com there are always guys swapping out their stockers for longtubes and you can sometimes find decent deals. Good luck man hopefully this doesn't slow you down too much

Slows me down enough to annoy me but I have plenty other things I could be doing to be productive. Been so busy lately with baby,wife,vacation,work... So ready to be actually able to go outside and work on it during the day. Maybe this weekend.

Also just got an email from gmpartsdirect saying that if they cant get the one manifold off back order within 30 days that it will cancel and ship the other. I emailed back saying if you can't get the one then cancel the other because I can't just use one. She said she can only cancel backorder orders, cant cancel the other one... That sucks!

I will try and call the dealer tomorrow and see... Probably won't be so lucky but I will give it a shot!! I need to call about recall on my cobalt anyways.

My new 20 gal carb tank from rockauto says it will arrive at my buddys house (welder) on weds but the ls fuel pump adapter from vette works hasn't even told me it has shipped yet.. I was really hoping to get that welded and done this week.

[y5mgisi]

Just FYI,

Truck manifold,



F body manifold,

[NorCalAnthony]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

Slows me down enough to annoy me but I have plenty other things I could be doing to be productive. Been so busy lately with baby,wife,vacation,work... So ready to be actually able to go outside and work on it during the day. Maybe this weekend.

Also just got an email from gmpartsdirect saying that if they cant get the one manifold off back order within 30 days that it will cancel and ship the other. I emailed back saying if you can't get the one then cancel the other because I can't just use one. She said she can only cancel backorder orders, cant cancel the other one... That sucks!

I will try and call the dealer tomorrow and see... Probably won't be so lucky but I will give it a shot!! I need to call about recall on my cobalt anyways.

My new 20 gal carb tank from rockauto says it will arrive at my buddys house (welder) on weds but the ls fuel pump adapter from vette works hasn't even told me it has shipped yet.. I was really hoping to get that welded and done this week.

I know what you mean. I've been collecting a part or two each paycheck for my LS swap and am almost to the point where I have everything needed for the swap but with all of my family commitments going on right now it's becoming difficult to get anything done on my K5. I've been working 52-60 hours Mon-Fri and it seems like my wife has my weekends planned before I get a chance to even think about working on my truck lol.

So why did you wind up going with the Vette Works stuff? Was it to get the piece at the bottom of the pump to keep it submerged without the tank baffling or did you start having problems with your original tank modification? Also, do you happen to know if their fuel pump adapter will work with the truck fuel sending unit as well? I looked it up on their site but only saw them reference the '98-'02 f-body pumps and wasn't sure if they're the same size as the trucks from the same era...

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by NorCalAnthony

I know what you mean. I've been collecting a part or two each paycheck for my LS swap and am almost to the point where I have everything needed for the swap but with all of my family commitments going on right now it's becoming difficult to get anything done on my K5. I've been working 52-60 hours Mon-Fri and it seems like my wife has my weekends planned before I get a chance to even think about working on my truck lol.

So why did you wind up going with the Vette Works stuff? Was it to get the piece at the bottom of the pump to keep it submerged without the tank baffling or did you start having problems with your original tank modification? Also, do you happen to know if their fuel pump adapter will work with the truck fuel sending unit as well? I looked it up on their site but only saw them reference the '98-'02 f-body pumps and wasn't sure if they're the same size as the trucks from the same era...

Nice!!

Yeah I was going to get the fbody manifolds but everyone was like no... Get the tbss ones. They are cheap from gmpartsdirect blah blah. So I did. Oh well.

The absolutely only reason I am buying a new tank and using the vette works kit is for looks. I sold my tbi motor and stuff for more $$ than I thought I'd get so I am kind of splurging on fuel system.

The vette works kit will work with truck pump. I contacted Dan, I think that's his name, from the site and he assured me it will. I hope so for like $88 shipped.

Like I said though, only reason I'm going expensive mount is for looks. What I originally set out to do will work just fine. I got the pump assy to fit in there perfectly after cutting off around 2" of the three stainless steel tubes in the pump assy to raise the fuel bucket up to fit in the tank.

The bucket on the pump assy acts as the baffle so no intake baffle is necessary.

[NastyBuzzard]

Here are some updates..

LS fuel pump adapter for 85 20 gallon carb tank.

Here is some free advertising for vette works:







Have to cut this tab off.



We tried to cheat and do it this way. Welding it to the top ring that comes on the gas tank. Welded from inside. Don't do it this way. Leaves a way for air to escape between tank and original ring.





This way is preferred if possible. Have to be real careful not to burn through the thin tank.







I need to figure out what seal/gasket/rtv I am going to use to seal pump assy to tank. The stock ring that comes on the pump assy isn't doing that excellent of a job. Will update when I figure it out.


Got eng/trans/tcase in though.

I am a tad concerned about ds length/penetration.



Only getting 3 1/8" as it sets now.



Also got my tbss manifolds.. AS soon as I get the last broken exhaust bolt out of head I will install them.

Plan to get intake and all back on soon. Then plumb fuel and start wiring.

Also concerned about ls engine location. I haven't locked down any of the motor mounts to frame or dirty dingos to engine. I am not sure I have it in the exact location it should be in. I have trans bolted to xmember tho.. More research needed.

So ready to lock her down, plumb her up, wire it up and fire it up!!

[Flatpat]

It's coming along, keep up the good work. Nice to see your progress, still following along on your fuel system.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Flatpat

It's coming along, keep up the good work. Nice to see your progress, still following along on your fuel system.

Thanks.. I am trying to make progress!

I apologize it is taking so long. Trying to flare the lines is giving me the most trouble. If you have any questions ask away.

[NorCalAnthony]

Looking good bud. Your second attempt at welding the bottom ring on is how I was originally planning on doing mine only using the metal LS locking ring after cutting it out of the plastic donor tank but I wasn't sure if there'd be enough there for them to weld it on. Your locking ring looks like a way better way to go lol.

About the gasket, you might try Home Depot or a plumbing supply store. Those dimensions you drew up look really close to the gaskets that a sink or bathtub drain would use and they're dirt cheap (<$1). If that won't work you could pick up a sheet of gasket material and just cut out the shape you need. One of my buddies used to do that for gaskets on his old BMW since they were crazy expensive from the dealership and local stores didn't stock them.

Keep up the great work. Don't worry about progress, any you're making is still more than me at this point lol.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by NorCalAnthony

Looking good bud. Your second attempt at welding the bottom ring on is how I was originally planning on doing mine only using the metal LS locking ring after cutting it out of the plastic donor tank but I wasn't sure if there'd be enough there for them to weld it on. Your locking ring looks like a way better way to go lol.

About the gasket, you might try Home Depot or a plumbing supply store. Those dimensions you drew up look really close to the gaskets that a sink or bathtub drain would use and they're dirt cheap (<$1). If that won't work you could pick up a sheet of gasket material and just cut out the shape you need. One of my buddies used to do that for gaskets on his old BMW since they were crazy expensive from the dealership and local stores didn't stock them.

Keep up the great work. Don't worry about progress, any you're making is still more than me at this point lol.

Yeah the adapter makes this job a lot easier and prettier!

I picked up some gasket material at lunch today. As well as some other goodies and things I need.

Wish I could find the overall length of the f-body pump. It would be nice not to have to cut the three rods on the truck pump.

Hopefully, I will get the pump installed in the tank for the final time and bolt that damn thing onto the frame!

[NastyBuzzard]

Giving the 03+ EGR less intake the good treatment! Bubble Bath! Its pretty nasty, so I am hoping this helps.



Also trying to find the perfect spot for engine so I can tighten down all the mounts. Any ideas?









Also, what you guys think about these? H3 rims on 73-87 4x4





Oh yeah.. I also just bout a 87 Crew Cab Short Bed 3+3 C20... It has been converted to 5 lug though. I plan to convert it to 4x4, budget depends on 8 lug or 6 lug. Ill do a thread for it later. For now My 87 GMC V1500 has priority.

[NorCalAnthony]

The H3 wheels look cool and are different than what you normally see on these older trucks which I like. The only problems with them that I can see would be the difference in back spacing vs what our trucks were originally made for and that the newer wheels are on the narrower side and will limit your tire sizes somewhat. If you don't want to run too big or too wide of a tire you should be fine though.

As far as the engine location goes, I would try to get the transfer case and drivelines put in their stock location and then see how things look with the motor once it and the trans are hooked up to the t-case. If you're lucky and can get the motor and trans to work in the old/stock location then you won't have to worry about modifying your drivelines. I forget, were you planning on using e-fans or the mechanical clutch style? If you go with the e-fans you'll have a little more leeway with where the motor sits front to back but you may run in to clearance issues with that cross member that you're already close to in the pics. There are a few aftermarket cross members available (I really like TNA's HD one and he's working on one specifically for square body LSx swaps) but I've also seen guys either hammer the corners of the stock one flat or cut and brace it. Just depends on how things are looking for you and how nice you want it to look when you're done lol.

How did the TBSS exhaust manifolds work out? I'm debating on whether I should bite the bullet and order a set for myself now or wait until I get going on my swap to see if the ones I already have will work. I'm using a new style of swap mounts and also found a 4l80e on the cheap so my engine location is going to be a little different than what I've seen so far...

[NastyBuzzard]

I love how the H3 rims look and have already found a company that can make custom spacers so they will fit however I like. The back spacing is pretty much the same as newer model trucks so spacers won't be too crazy, no more than 1 3/4".

I don't plan to ever lift this truck more than 4" or go over a 33" tall tire. I'm building it so I can hop in and DD it if I need to.

I will be running electric fans.

I have bolted down trans/tcase to xmember and test fitted driveshaft. I am just not sure if engine is in correct place. It looked better when I had cherry picker supporting it, now it's under it's own weight with no shocks up front and none of the engine mounts are tightened down.


The TBSS manifolds work like a damn dream!!! I've got room for days!!! I'll have to get some pics for you.

However, I don't suggest ordering from gmpartsdirect, they are a bunch if asshats and the DS manifold is on back order until eternity I think. Luckily I found one on eBay that was cheaper and came with heat shields.

Also anyone know part # for truck manifold flange bolts? Not bolts that go to head but ones that bolt exhaust together.

Also searching for tbss ps manifold heat shield

[NorCalAnthony]

Yeah if you aren't going to do more than a 33" tire then those wheels should work fine and look pretty sweet. I've seen a couple pictures of someone mounting a 35" tire (can't remember width) on those skinny factory wheels and it lucked crappy not to mention unsafe having that wide of a tire on that narrow of a rim. Almost like you'd blow your bead taking a corner too fast...

So is the engine just sitting lower in the frame than you would like? If so, can you grab some longer bolts and some thick washers to raise the lower motor mounts up off the frame to get it to sit where you want it? I thought I had read somewhere that the LS engines should be slight angled rearward by 3*?

If you have a chance I'd love to see how the TBSS manifolds fit in our engine bays. y5mgisi posted a good comparison shot of the f-body and truck manifolds a couple of posts up but the only f-body manifolds I can only find are used ones that cost way more than what new TBSS manifolds go for. I think I saw the same guy on Ebay that had the driver's side manifold with heat shield and will most likely order one from him next payday and then track down a new passenger side somewhere else. By the way I found the part number for the PS heat shield #12597916 if you still need it. A quick Google search showed a bunch of places that carry it for $25-30 but I didn't bother to check availability or shipping costs...

The Dorman P/N for the exhaust manifold studs is 03133 and it looks like the same ones were used for all the different manifolds for the last 20+ years. Here's a link to them at Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rn...engine-type/v8

[chevytrucksforme]

Great looking build! Subscribed.

[NastyBuzzard]

Norcal Thanks for the dorman part #! That is exactly what I ordered.

Yeah 33" tall tires are as big as this truck will get, probably no wider than 12.5 and these rims are 7.5" wide.

3* huh? I will try and investigate. Currently issue is I need someone to pry while I tighten down. I am trying to recruit some help so I can get it locked down and top end back on so I can start routing wiring.

I have possibly found a fuel pump that will be direct fit for carb 20 gal tank & the vetteworks adapter instead of having to cut down the truck pump. I will investigate further tomorrow.

Since the time change it's like every time I get home it is dark!! However, trust me when I say these are probably the best manifolds for our trucks! They follow the engine/frame parallel and don't kick out like truck manifolds do. There is all kinds of room to run whatever exhaust you would like. I will hopefully have pics in the daylight this weekend.. Sorry taking so long but if you are worried about fitment, don't. The fit is excellent!

I appreciate it Chevytrucks!! I am going to try and push this build a little faster sometime soon. I want and need it running. I appreciate the support.

[NastyBuzzard]

As promised, here are the pics of the TBSS manifolds on engine in 87 4x4. Sorry I only had time to just snap these pics. I will get better ones when I can crawl under the truck.

DS has sooo much room



PS almost has just as much.



Also, as promised. I found a direct drop in ls style fuel pump for the 73-87 tank using the vetteworks kit. It's out of a 2002 grand prix. Airtext PN E3542M. One out of a 02 4 door blazer could work too but I like the 02 Grand Prix pump better.





I also finally bolted engine all the way down.. I was prying like hell to get it perfect and ended up pulling a groin muscle and hurting my back. However, it is bolted down but it is far from perfect... Which drives me nuts. It seems crooked to me or something. UGH...



Only thing close to hitting or anything is this part of the oil pan. It still has more than 1/4" all the way around it though.

[NastyBuzzard]

So I needed to eliminate the EGR crap. Well I got a hold of a 03 intake and put my 01 throttle body on it. So now I have two tubes that go to the ds valve cover??? Which one to use and which to plug? I actually had to knock the tube coming out of the throttle body up a few degrees b/c it wouldn't go on b/c of interference. Any ideas?



Also, any one know where I can find more of these? I had to rob it off my 6.0. Its some gasket thing off of a piece that mounts to the top/front of the intake near throttle body.



I did get the top end back on and torqued







Started wiring... Most of engine is wired besides a ground or two that I couldn't do b/c dirty dingo mounts were in the way and not a space on firewall yet. Also need to put power to starter.

Everything else I should just be able to plug it all up and start it. After I finish fuel lines and all. Then I will have to go back and splice in the 87-91 headlight harness, bed harness, door wiring harness and so on.



Also someone on facebook showed me this, where they swapped in newer style (nnbs/gmt800) dash in 73-87.

[NastyBuzzard]

This seal for a 98-02 fbody pump will work a lot better to seal the ls pump in the modified tank w/ the vetteworks kit. PN AC Delco G46



It is nice having options...



As you can see the 01 steering column isn't just going to bolt right in a 73-87.. Unfortunately it will take some modifications.

[y5mgisi]

Honestly, im surpised you have made it this far! Thats a lot of work you have done! Good job! Keep it up!

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

Honestly, im surpised you have made it this far! Thats a lot of work you have done! Good job! Keep it up!

Thanks! I really don't feel like I have got enough done. I need to get on the ball.

After I get wiring done enough to fire it up I think that will give me the push to get it back road worthy and looking pretty.

[NorCalAnthony]

You're making good progress bud

I'm sure once you hear the engine fire for the first time it'll give you all the motivation you need and recharge your batteries to blow through whatever's left.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by NorCalAnthony

You're making good progress bud

I'm sure once you hear the engine fire for the first time it'll give you all the motivation you need and recharge your batteries to blow through whatever's left.

Anthony, I sure do hope so. Getting it to start shouldn't be all too difficult as long as there are no problems from sitting. Getting it to put around the yard shouldn't be real hard... As long as I don't break anything.

Getting all the 01 cluster, steering, column in and looking good, probably pretty difficult. Same with integrating in the headlight wiring harness, bed wiring, door wiring harness.

Then getting the heat to work is blowing my mind at the moment, then it will be ac. Then to make it all look good. That is the tough stuff!

[NastyBuzzard]

I have most of the initial start wiring done, minus some grounds I need to make...

I noticed some interference with the new steering column and brake pedal..

Also anyone have a part number or length of what belt I need to get so I can start it up without the A/C compressor on there..?

[NorCalAnthony]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

I have most of the initial start wiring done, minus some grounds I need to make...

I noticed some interference with the new steering column and brake pedal..

Also anyone have a part number or length of what belt I need to get so I can start it up without the A/C compressor on there..?

Can't help with the pedal interference but the good news is the A/C's should all be on their own separate belt coming off the harmonic balancer. If you still have your old belt you should be able to re-use it or grab a stock replacement for whatever vehicle your engine came from at the local auto parts store. Here's a picture of the belt routing for reference in case you needed it (courtesy of ebay lol):

[NastyBuzzard]

Dang!! Thanks Anthony!! Killed two birds with one stone there! I have no clue why I was thinking it was only one belt for everything. I guess I was thinking it was like the old serpentine setups.

It has been apart too long. Thanks again, thats good news.

If it wasn't my wife's "Bday weekend" I probably would be firing it for the first time sitting in the 87 frame.. Unfortunately it will have to wait...

Also guys, just a big accomplishment for me non truck related but after 10+ years I quit smoking. I used an e-cig for two weeks to get away from cigarettes and this has been my first week off the e-cig and 0 nicotine intake. It hasn't been easy.