Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[Dan in Pasadena]

So I'm trying to figure out the Dakota Digital HDX gauge. I filled her up today and gauge reads a little less than 1/2 tank. I'm wondering if it's as simple as the guy that selected which GM ohm setting to use, selected 0-90 and it should have been 0-30? I'm no sparky so if anyone has a comment, feel free. But if 90 ohms = "full" then wouldn't a full tank register as less than 1/2 because 45 ohms would be half with that type of sensor?

Reading through the instructions (We don't need no DAMN instructions! ha ha) there is also a potential issue that there's supposed to be a separate ground run from the sensor mounting plate to the frame. I'll have to get in there and check but I THINK the two wires to the sensor, one went to the Signal terminal and one went to a ground ON the sensor mount plate, nowhere else.

Anyway, figuring this out and hoping nothing gets damaged til I do. All comments/suggestions appreciated.

EDIT: Sorry about the pic being sideways. If anyone can decipher more from this than I can please tell me. There's also a question (to me) why it says two "twisted" wires? Why would twisted be important or am I being a dipsh!t and twisted means something else here? A picture of the sender wiring added if it helps shed any light. To my non electrical-saavy eyes it looks like the in-tank fuel pump and sender grounds are connected together and grounded to the pump mounting flange. No connection to the frame which the instructions SEEM to clearly say is required. Opinions?

[svr]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

So I'm trying to figure out the Dakota Digital HDX gauge. I filled her up today and gauge reads a little less than 1/2 tank. I'm wondering if it's as simple as the guy that selected which GM ohm setting to use, selected 0-90 and it should have been 0-30? I'm no sparky so if anyone has a comment, feel free. But if 90 ohms = "full" then wouldn't a full tank register as less than 1/2 because 45 ohms would be half with that type of sensor?

Reading through the instructions (We don't need no DAMN instructions! ha ha) there is also a potential issue that there's supposed to be a separate ground run from the sensor mounting plate to the frame. I'll have to get in there and check but I THINK the two wires to the sensor, one went to the Signal terminal and one went to a ground ON the sensor mount plate, nowhere else.

Anyway, figuring this out and hoping nothing gets damaged til I do. All comments/suggestions appreciated.

EDIT: Sorry about the pic being sideways. If anyone can decipher more from this than I can please tell me. There's also a question (to me) why it says two "twisted" wires? Why would twisted be important or am I being a dipsh!t and twisted means something else here? A picture of the sender wiring added if it helps shed any light. To my non electrical-saavy eyes it looks like the in-tank fuel pump and sender grounds are connected together and grounded to the pump mounting flange. No connection to the frame which the instructions SEEM to clearly say is required. Opinions?

Ok yes you have to have the sender grounded, looking at your pics it looks like there is a wire leaving the sender from the ground, i don't know where it goes but if your pump runs it should be grounded. Just went through this on mine. To really know what you have you need a digital ohm meter and a 0-500ohm potentiometer. without pulling the sender out of the tank its alittle harder to get exact but should be able to figure out what you have. With the ohm meter check from the ground terminal to the frame, you should have complete continuity from the frame to the sender. Also your gauge has to be grounded good. If all is good there with the ohm meter check across the ground on the sender and the send terminal, if its a 0-90 sender it should read somewhere close to 90 ohms if it's full, if its about 30 ohms it is a 0-30 ohm sender.
Here is a link to how to use the potentiometer to check what the guage wants. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...hingie.862020/

Good luck, mine is not digital it is analog so your milage may vary, not sure why but twisted wires some time makes a difference with digital stuff.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by svr

Ok yes you have to have the sender grounded, looking at your pics it looks like there is a wire leaving the sender from the ground, i don't know where it goes but if your pump runs it should be grounded.

Yes, the truck runs so the pump pumps which means the sender is grounded. Is there any such things as grounded ENOUGH? Or grounded incorrectly?

Originally Posted by svr

Just went through this on mine. To really know what you have you need a digital ohm meter and a 0-500ohm potentiometer. without pulling the sender out of the tank its alittle harder to get exact but should be able to figure out what you have. With the ohm meter check from the ground terminal to the frame, you should have complete continuity from the frame to the sender. Also your gauge has to be grounded good. If all is good there with the ohm meter check across the ground on the sender and the send terminal, if its a 0-90 sender it should read somewhere close to 90 ohms if it's full, if its about 30 ohms it is a 0-30 ohm sender.
Here is a link to how to use the potentiometer to check what the guage wants. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...hingie.862020/

I gotta tell you I read and re-read your post and mostly it's Greek to me. Yeah, I'm an electrical dumbsh!t Fortunately, I stopped by the shop today and discussed this with their electrician. He said to stop by and he thinks he'll be able to reach in between the sender and underside of bedwood and determine the ohm rating of the sender. Fortunately, I think they feel sorry for me over the ton of money I've given them and the stupid gas gauge isn't reliable yet.

Originally Posted by svr

Good luck, mine is not digital it is analog so your milage may vary, not sure why but twisted wires some time makes a difference with digital stuff.

[Kim57]

Truck looks really good.
I'm sure you will get all the bugs worked out.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Quick status update: Truck hasn't been driven for the last week and a half because I've been under the weather.

Got her out today, wiped her down with a moist microfiber towel and dried with another new one. Used the wax recommended by BlackSheep (Mark). It's called Collinite 845 and it is truly great. I love it. If your paint is new (like mine and his are) or pristinely clean, it makes them butter smooth and shiny. Takes VERY little and is easy on/easy off.

Took her around the corner to the dog park with my small dogs. Only really stepped on it a bit but she's got plenty. Waay more performance than I'll ever need. I'm still not happy with the front wheels rubbing near full lock. I'm getting used to the lack of boost power steering. The huge wheel helps and I'm almost happy to refinish it and leave it as an homage to what this truck once was. I'm just not all the impressed with the many, many $400 aftermarket steering wheels. Some are nice, just not $400 nice!

[Black_Sheep]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Got her out today, wiped her down with a moist microfiber towel and dried with another new one. Used the wax recommended by BlackSheep (Mark). It's called Collinite 845 and it is truly great. I love it. If your paint is new (like mine and his are) or pristinely clean, it makes them butter smooth and shiny. Takes VERY little and is easy on/easy off.

Glad you like the wax Dan, let's see a pic next time you have the truck out,

[Russell Ashley]

Dan, your truck is beautiful just like it is. I think if it were mine I might like a couple more inches of ground clearance, especially if there is any issue with the tires rubbing. Have you thought of shrinking your original steering wheel? Cheap and looks right.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

Dan, your truck is beautiful just like it is.

Thanks, Glen. Very nice of you.

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

I think if it were mine I might like a couple more inches of ground clearance, especially if there is any issue with the tires rubbing.

Yeah, the stance is no longer pleasing to me since I raised the front. It's totally level on flat ground and just isn't "right".

The REAL problem is I bought the rims used as a good "deal", but the offset probably isn't correct. I still haven't measured from the wheel mounting surface to the inner fender & wheel well lip. Besides I don't love these rims. Too "bling-y" and not really my taste. I like my old 15" Torq Thrusts better. They won't fit but I'll find a fix eventually.

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

Have you thought of shrinking your original steering wheel? Cheap and looks right.

Yes. I've searched for a smaller wheel I could use to make mine smaller but they're not as easy to come by as you might think. With the PS as is, I'll stay with the big wheel awhile.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Tuesday, March 19, 2019

Small potatoes jobs done sorting out the truck. Finally found & installed #10 x 3/4" Oval head wood screws to screw down the marine gas filler - done.

Stopped by the shop and after much fooling around figured out the Tanks, Inc tank came with neither of the two common GM sending unit ohm ratings. Switched the Dakota Digital unit to read a (I think!) 30-240 ohm sensor and it seems to be working now. I'll keep an eye on it.

The PS boost is still too low but I can live with it if I use the stock wheel - painted to match of course. My wheel is in truly bad shape. Waaay back on page 3, post #61 I show a close up of the wheel before I repaired it with JB Weld. The repair hasn't held up and cracks are reappearing, though small. Plus the plastic surface is breaking through to the metal below so I'm think it may be better to just use a new, reproduction stock wheel or big Belair wheel. At least it'll hold up longer than my Mickey Mouse repairs have so far.

A few pics of her in the sun light today. Still think the stance is off. Working on how to resolve that.

[58CameoAZ]

Truck Looks really Nice Dan, I personally like the Stance! Just my 2cents tho,

Wish you the Best!
Allen

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 58CameoAZ

Truck Looks really Nice Dan, I personally like the Stance! Just my 2cents tho,

Wish you the Best!
Allen

Thanks Allen. It's too low for me - yeah I know that's heresy around here

I like the stance of this beeoootiful green '56. It's running 17's like I am. See how there's about 1" of the rear tire showing and the front slightly lower? That's where I'm headed.

PS: I THINK the green one has U.S. Mags on it, though I could be wrong. I LOVE the center caps but they're definitely not on the U.S. Mag website and I haven't been able to find them so I'm wondering if they were custom made? Anyway, I'm considering a change to these rims at some point.

[Kim57]

Your truck looks great.
Kim

[bobinbc]

Truck looks great Dan! That shade of red is very rich, very red red. I think you nailed the stance and wouldn't change it but you can adjust it easily if you want to. It will settle some over the first while so if you adjust it now you may have to do it again.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Kim.

Anyone know if the green truck's rims are U.S. Mags and/or a source for those center caps?

[57tailgater]

This is a really nice truck. I liked it's first incarnation too. Have you ever thought of using a taller profile tire in the back instead of changing wheels? I think that's the challenge when using similar sized tires for front and rear on these trucks, especially if you're not wanting to sit it on the ground. A taller profile would raise it up and provide some rake (which I like too) without having to do anything to the suspension. I think wheelwells need to be filled up. Good luck on figuring it out.

[svr]

The green trucks mags look a lot like my American mag Torque Thrust II's on my truck. Mine are 17", not exactly but pretty close.

[oldman3]

Dan, this may not be the same wheel, but my son purchased these, and is happy with them. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mbw-23193/overview/
...Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks for the advice guys.

The issue is the offset on these rims is wrong for this truck. I can mess around with spacers and tires or truly get it right with rims that have the correct offset. These trucks actually allow a lot of tire size but only if the wheel/tire is properly located in the wheel well - and mine aren't.

I like the Torq Thrusts, the MB and Coy wheels too but I REALLY like the center caps on the green truck's wheels. If they were custom made, well I suppose I could find a machinist that would make some for me. But my preference would be to find if they're pre made.

[57tailgater]

Here's a link to the online article on the green truck:

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/rich...y-chevy-truck/

The wheels are: Front wheels: 17×8 Vintage Wheel Works, Rear wheels: 18×9.5 Vintage Wheel Works per the article.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 57tailgater

Here's a link to the online article on the green truck:

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/rich...y-chevy-truck/

The wheels are: Front wheels: 17×8 Vintage Wheel Works, Rear wheels: 18×9.5 Vintage Wheel Works per the article.

Excellent, thanks SO much for finding that! Now if I could just figure out where the center caps came from! They’re not on the Vintage Wheelworks website...but they’ve been taken over by Coker Tire apparently.

[reaper71]

Dan here is a few shots of the MB racing wheels Dad was telling you about (oldman3) these are 18 rear 17 front
Second pic is when I sprayed them with a custom bronze I mixed up.
And 3rd is a shot of the center cap I made for them. The plate for the cap will be painted to match the rim.

Mark.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks a lot, Mark. I didn’t realize Jim had a son here. What a great thing to share your hobby with your dad. Nothing but kudos to the two of you for that.

I like the MB wheel. The spokes seem a touch sharper than the ones on the green truck pic I posted which makes me think they’re a different brand but I’d be totally happy with them.

Correct me if I’m wrong but your center cap is a flat cap that youve drilled for the center cap. But where did that center cap comes from? How did you modify it to fit and hold secure? Thanks for your advice & photos!!

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks Allen. It's too low for me - yeah I know that's heresy around here

Too low - that's like saying you have too much money. Looks great as is!

[reaper71]

Dan, I used the stock cap as a template to cut my aluminum and then cut the holes for the front dust caps to clear, followed by making some frames to bolt the cap on.

The caps are from centercaps.com they simply bolt in place.

Mark

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hi Bob! Long time no talk. Maybe I’ve missed your posts, have you been posting?

If I put the front back down the 1” we lifted it I’d be ok with the stance BUT there are some minor rubbing issues because the rims don’t have the right offset for the wheel wells. Since I like but am not over the top about my rims I MAY order new ones once I pull these off and get in there with a tape measure to REALLY get the size & offset correct. All that is in the future. I agree everything should settle a bit before deciding anything.