1957 Chevy 3100, meet 1994 Dodge Ram 1500

[lower50's]

Woo Hoo!! Great motivator having it run. My dad had a '82 chev short box. 350, long tube headers, cats and tail pipes drove for years like that sounded great.

[Purcell69]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Woo Hoo!! Great motivator having it run. My dad had a '82 chev short box. 350, long tube headers, cats and tail pipes drove for years like that sounded great.

Headers will be in the future, but right now it's just the stock cast manifolds, running two into one, through the cat and out to one foot of 2.5" pipe behind the cat. The exit is under the cab, so it would be a bit much to listen to on the highway for any length of time. I think I may go to a two outlet muffler, dumping ahead of the rear axle.

I also found out I need to jump the distributor back a few teeth after all. There is a cam position sensor in the distributor that signals the fuel injectors. Right now, the injectors are puddling fuel at the intake valves. The valves open and draw in the fuel, so the truck runs, but under load, it will have no power. I'll get this fixed next week and it will run like a champ.

-Joe

[Purcell69]

After mucking around with the distributor yesterday, I think the easiest course of action is going to be unbolting the cab and sliding it back about 6" to give me some additional room to work. I'm sure I can get the distributor out without doing this, but it will give me extra space to get in to the motor, behind that big Dodge intake manifold.

-Joe

[Rickysnickers]

Joe, sounds like you are doing really well with your project. Just and FYI. and I'm sure you already know this so forgive me if you do. The distributor on that engine does not control timing like it would in a typical small block Chevy. It adjusts the fuel sync. Here's a youtube video if you need it...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjIKzprbgOY

[Purcell69]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Joe, sounds like you are doing really well with your project. Just and FYI. and I'm sure you already know this so forgive me if you do. The distributor on that engine does not control timing like it would in a typical small block Chevy. It adjusts the fuel sync. Here's a youtube video if you need it...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjIKzprbgOY

Thank you for that Ricky. I was aware, but there is some adjustment, as I just found out.

I wasn't patient enough to wait until next week when the oil pump tool is expected to arrive, so I just went for it, without moving the cab, just working with everything as is. I was able to remove the distributor and sorted the proper position for the drive gear. I walked the dive gear into position and reset the distributor, locking it down with the rotor on #1 with the #1 cylinder on TDC.

When I tried to start the motor, it cranked like a hot big block with too much advance. It would start, but wouldn't run, unlike the other day.

Keep in mind, before I ever tore the motor down to install the new cam, I made index marks on the engine block and distributor base, just to have a reference during reassembly. This afternoon, I failed to line the marks up, figuring the 1s lining up was good enough. Wrong. I had to loosen the clamp and turn the dizzy clockwise about 10* to line back up with my original index marks. Once it was realigned and locked down, it starts like a champ again.

-Joe

[Rickysnickers]

[Purcell69]

No new pics yet, but I'm making some progress with the rest of things that need attention. I finally have the transmission topped off (9 quarts), I've reconnected (spliced) all of the front wiring for lights, horns, cruise control, etc. and am getting ready to rewrap then with new sheath. I may run in to a slight issue, as there are about 12 ground leads in that group and no markings to pair them up, just black wires. All I could do is match wire sizes. I picture hitting the turn signal and having the horn rhythmically honk instead at some point in the future.

I did a quick and dirty fab for a fan mount and hung the spare XJ cooling fan behind the radiator just as it was getting dark last night. It's not very big, but it will pull air through the radiator and the transmission cooler, so its a start. I'm going to wire it to a relay and have it come on with the ignition. When the big fan arrives, I can use the same wiring.

I have not yet switched out the 1999 injectors for the 1994s, but that will happen later this week after I have a chance to clean the old ones.

Looking under the truck the other afternoon and wondering about the fuel rich condition, I had to wonder if the O2 sensor was working. I looked back in to the exhaust and found the catalytic converter on the truck is an empty shell. I had a spare converter and muffler from the rusted out XJ, so for now, they are welded up to the shelled out cat. It seems like the O2 sensor is now starting to be able to heat up, in spite of being 18" away from the functioning cat, and the truck almost wants to idle on its own.

I am also starting to wonder if the plate I made to block off the EGR port on the top of the intake manifold may be a source of a vacuum leak. Even when manually holding the throttle above idle, the engine speed will rise and fall in a wave. I am beginning to think I may be better served to just buy the necessary EGR hardware and hook the system back up. Of course, I'll have to pull the intake to remove the plug for the EGR tube at the back, but I've had to do worse. At least there is a lot of room to work one the motor. The functioning EGR will at least remove that component from the equation.

At least with the functioning fan, I will be able to run the engine for more than a few minutes at a time. It is slowly improving the more I tinker with it, even though I still haven't found the missing ground for the gauge cluster. Once that issue is resolved, I can better determine what is working, and what isn't. Perhaps I'll be able to drive it around the property by the end of this week. I've got a few days off coming and the weather here right now is great. Time to tinker with it some more as soon as I get caught back up on mowing this afternoon.

-Joe

[Rickysnickers]

Joe, I forget what year you engine is. I'm on a Dodge board and could probably get you in touch with someone who has a stock intake manifold that does not have the EGR junk, if you want to go that route. Let me know.

[Purcell69]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Joe, I forget what year you engine is. I'm on a Dodge board and could probably get you in touch with someone who has a stock intake manifold that does not have the EGR junk, if you want to go that route. Let me know.

Ricky, I appreciate the offer. My chassis and computer is 1994 (OBD-I). The engine is a 1999, as the 1994 motor was junk. I have the 1999 intake, as well as the 1994, which is the one with EGR. I didn't use the 1999 intake because it lacks one of the ports for the two temperature sensors needed by the 1994 engine.

Part of the issue with blocking off the EGR on the 5.9 engine is spark knock. The 5.2L didn't have this problem, so most of the 5.2s from that era didn't have EGR. Since the stock heads are weak and are notorious for cracking, I'm going to put the EGR stuff on and try to save the heads for a little while longer.

-Joe

[Purcell69]

The other day, I wired up the spare fan from the XJ, through the ignition switch and a relay. The mount is ugly, but it is only temporary and gets the job done.

Yesterday, I swapped out the 1999 fuel injectors for the 1994 injectors. The 1994s needed cleaning up a bit. Two had filter screens that were clogged with rust, and when I installed them, the truck had a nasty miss, probably related to those same two injectors.

Today, after letting the truck sit overnight, the miss was gone. I'm guessing the injectors had been frozen up, but fuel in the system freed them. On start up, the engine runs smoothly and pulls about 19" of vacuum.after 10-15 seconds of running, the truck wants to die unless I take over with the throttle, then the idle lopes and varies about 200 rpm. Vacuum fluctuates between 16" and 14" at the same time, moving with engine rpm.

The MAP sensor is at 1.6v when the vacuum is at 19", but goes up as the idle and vacuum fluctuates. Disconnecting the O2 sensor causes the exhaust to be rich and kills throttle response. With everything hooked up, the engine responds beautifully to throttle input and revs as it should. I think at this point, I need to adjust the fuel trim externally to get it to idle on it's own. Other than that, it runs good.

-Joe

[Purcell69]

Well, after a bunch of research and talking with folks more in the know than me, I found out what is causing my idle issues, at least more than an other one specific item. The cam profile is too much for the stock computer to handle. Even though the website listed it as being "computer friendly", there is just too much duration at 0.050 lift.

I spoke with Marty Fletcher this morning. He is something of a tuning guru when it comes to the Dodge Magnum engine line. Marty told me the maximum duration the stock computer can tolerate is no more than 210 degrees of duration at 0.050 lift. Period.

I thought the cam I bought fell in line with this, but I guess I screwed the pooch there. Even though this is supposed to be computer compatible and a good cam for towing use, the cam has 212 degrees of duration on the intake side and 218 degrees on the exhaust side. This causes the MAP sensor fits, since the intake manifold vacuum drops below 18" when idling, causing the IAC to "search" for the right signal value while running the idle speed up and down and dumps extra fuel.

Either I can go back to the stock cam or I can go to and OBD-2 system with a programmer and a custom tune to work with the cam I have. If I go OBD-2, my best plan would be to get a complete parts truck as a donor with all the needed sensors and harness components, then sell off the parts I don't need before scrapping the rest, to offset my costs. This is pretty much the plan, but probably not until next year.

-Joe

[lower50's]

Oh man that sucks! I would go with changing the wiring instead of undoing a fresh motor. Another + would be better tuning with the upgraded software.

[joedoh]

oh man, I think I would swap a cam rather than change the whole engine to OBDII.


still, at least you know!

[Purcell69]

As much as I am tempted to slide the stock cam back in to have a running truck right now, I think the better answer is to wait until I can get my hands on another donor truck, take all the OBD-2 goodies off of it, and then sell off what I don't need to pay for a tuner. It sucks either way, but I'd rather not break open a sealed motor. Either way, it's going to be a few hours of work. Initially, the cam and gaskets are cheaper, but parting the donor truck will negate the cost after the initial expense.

In the long run, I'm going to need to undress the top of the motor anyway, when I upgrade the cylinder heads. The stock Dodge heads are prone to cracking. EQ make replacements that out flow the stock heads straight out of the box and not have cracking issues. The cost is somewhat reasonable considering the improvements, so the OBD-2 system would be more valuable at that point, taking full advantage of the bigger cam and better heads. I just need to wait until all of that is in my budget.

-Joe

[Purcell69]

Wow! I can't believe I haven't updated this since September.

First off, I picked up a OBD-2 wire harness for the engine. I still need to get the appropriate computer and a tuner to have it running right, but it is one more step in the right direction. When funds permit, I'll get those items, but for now, it is still OBD-1 and doesn't like to idle.

Next on the list, I manage to score a hide-away gooseneck hitch plate on Marketplace for $50. Since I plan on using this truck to do "truck things" from time to time, it seemed a good idea. The diesel that we have may not be available for some reason and heaven forbid we have a horse that needs to go to the vet and no truck to pull the trailer.

The plate came without mounting brackets, so I ended up making my own with 4" angle bolted to the frame and the 3/8" thick hitch plate. When I installed the hitch plate, I mounted it below the bed floor just enough to allow the raised portion at the center of the plate, where the ball pops up, to sit just about flush, leaving me a smooth floor for cargo. I still need to get the actual steel for the bed floor, but when the time comes, I can cut a 12"x14" opening to match the raised portion of the plate and all will be good.

The next item was another Marketplace score. I want to keep the truck looking somewhat simple and basic, so for wheels, I felt white steels would be best. The 15" Ford truck wheels I currently have were fine for that, but required 1/4" spacers to clear the front brake calipers. For the time being, I had 1/2" washers stacked on the studs to allow clearance between the inside of the wheel and the brake caliper. Of course doing this increased the offset, pushing the front wheels out even further, something I didn't want.

Rather than spending $127 each on Wheel Vintiques rims, I decided to go with the plain steel 16" Dodge Ram 1500 wheels from a base model truck. The silver rims have a deeper offset, tucking the wheels in a bit further, close to 2" when you consider the gain from removing the washer stacks behind the wheels. I found a set in Lawton for $40. When I got there, the seller realized I am a Marine, (he was a retired SgtMaj.), and just gave me the wheels, no cost.

I cleaned them up and painted them white. I need to find a way to mount the chrome early style Chevy center caps, but otherwise they look great. I also found a pair of used but serviceable 235/85-R16 tires to get an idea of how it will all go together. The change is dramatic in comparison to the 31x10.5-15 tire and wheel combo. All in, I have $30 in the tires and wheels, not counting gas and my time.

Since I have the bed off right now, it was a good time to Weld up some holes in the back wall of the cab. At some point in the years prior to my purchase of the truck, someone drilled four 1/2" holes across the middle of the back of the cab. With the bed on the frame, I had completely overlooked them, but now they were obvious and needed to be addressed. Now, they are gone, welded shut, smoothed, filled primed and shot with a quick coat of paint to protect from rust.

All of this makes some ancient gouges on the left rear corner of the cab that much more obvious. I've never done hammer and dolly work, but since this area is pretty much out of sight with the bed installed, this seems like a good place to learn and practice. The gouge is deep enough that it raised a ridge in the inside of the cab on the back wall.

This week, I've been addressing two brackets that were never cleaned and painted when I was working on the frame. One is the right side front leaf spring perch for the rear axle. The other is the right rear upper shock bracket. As I recall, I was running out of blast media and endurance at the time, not to mention primer. It was too hot and humid to be wearing a blast hood and I don't have a cabinet blaster, so these parts were just forgotten. Either the bed off, again, they were obvious and in need of attention. I ordered up some primer and since it is now hot and humid again, the prospect of sand blasting really isn't appealing. I decided to try my hand at electrolysis to get rid of the rust. It was more time consuming, but less labor-intensive.

Each part required a two day soak in the electrolysis bucket, followed by a wash and scrub down in the kitchen sink. Once they were clean, I gave the parts an "Afterblast" bath and wiped them down before priming. Now they can be painted and bolted back on the frame. I should be done with these items this weekend if all goes well, then I can hit the frame with a fresh coat of chassis black and my work on the rear half of the frame will be done.

-Joe

[Purcell69]

Here are the pictures from above.

[Purcell69]

And the gouge that "needs" repair.

[Purcell69]

The tire/wheel combo.

[Purcell69]

And here is that beast of a hitch plate. 3/8" steel should firm up the rear just a bit, lol.

I notched it to fit around the top of the gas tank. My saw guide walked a bit and I missed the corner holes that I drilled, so in the end, I welded in some 45* corners to help prevent stress cracking. In the long run, there will be a full-steel 3/16" bed floor over top of the hitch plate, with the highest part of the plate, (not counting the ball), being recessed 1/2" below the bed floor.

[Purcell69]

The weather this afternoon was perfect! When I got home from work today, I scuffed the primer coat on the back half of the frame. Once I got a good scuff on it, I washed it down and dried it, then shot the first coat of Chassis Black. If all goes well, I can get the second coat on tomorrow after work, or worst case, Tuesday morning.

-Joe

[Rickysnickers]

What the heck have you been doing for 9 months, slacker???? Just kidding. Nice work

[Purcell69]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

What the heck have you been doing for 9 months, slacker???? Just kidding. Nice work

I've been hunting parts on the cheap, getting the daughter married off and attending her college graduation, among other things. Lol.

The weather here is finally cooperating so I can really start working on things in earnest again. It feels good to be turning wrenches again. Once I get the next coat on the frame, the hitch plate can go back on.

I still want to try my hand at bumping out that gouge and I need to snag a PCM to run OBD-2. Its all little things, but it feels good to be checking them off.

-Joe

[americanmusc1e]

I'm subbing to this so I remember to come back and read the whole thing. I have a 49 Chevy 3800 that needs a better engine and a nice 5.9 and 46re in a jeep I can't sell.

[Purcell69]

Originally Posted by americanmusc1e

I'm subbing to this so I remember to come back and read the whole thing. I have a 49 Chevy 3800 that needs a better engine and a nice 5.9 and 46re in a jeep I can't sell.

If you're serious about using your Jeep drivetrain, you're already in a good position, since you have all the wiring necessary to make it run and drive.

You may also want to check out Utahawesome Performance. Marty Fletcher has been doing some fantastic work with the 5.9 Magnum platform. He's spent a lot of his own time and money developing a cam grind that will work with the stock valve springs, and improve the power output of the Magnum motor at the same time. He combines this with an SCT tuner loaded with custom tunes, designed to make the most of the cam, and lifetime support.

Since I already have a different cam, I'm going to get with Marty for the tuner and tunes to match.

-Joe

[americanmusc1e]

Thanks for the info! I do have all the wiring and I'll be keeping the mopar PCM to control the Transmission. For the engine I've pretty much figured out how I'm going to piggyback a Megasquirt MS2 ECM using a 36-1 trigger wheel on the front. The megasquirt will batch fire the factory injectors and trigger LS truck coils for Coil-near-plug spark.

This is very similar to the Megasquirt Setup that I have on the 5.3 in my C10 and I'll be able to tune the ECM myself.

It sounds like you hit the limit of the OBD1 setup with yours and are in the process of moving to OBD2. If you are interested in the Megasquirt piggyback option instead of OBD2 I can share what I know.