My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

[Low Elco]

No no no! Slick Sand is a filler primer. Mud/metal always looks great in primer after 80 block in epoxy. Scuff the epoxy well and completely, edge to edge, with 150. Then lay 2 coats slick sand on. Then block that with 150. You'll be shocked at what the guide coat shows you. Use a long dura block with a nice straight 2x4 taped to the back of it on the doors and bedsides, face of tailgate and hood. Repair as necessary. Recoat with SS and reguide. Block again With 240. If no breakout, wet sand with 400, always on a block. If lots a breakthrus, tap tap and shoot SS AGAIN. Then wet with 400 and shoot 2 coats bc 3 coats clear. Enjoy the adulation of all the ladies in the tri county area. If orange is a problem, a little more reducer and a little more air and a bit further away.
Posted via Mobile Device

[FrankieD]

Now the fun begins and the race with the weather is on!!

[Low Elco]

Also, I don't think you can polish satin , but I dunno.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jlsanborn]

Thanks again! I may be too chicken $hit for the guide coat! I thought I was about DONE with the body work. Will I need to touch it between BC and the CC? Please say no....

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

No more body work between base and clear.

[jlsanborn]

But do I have to scuff it?

[Low Elco]

Noop, I'll make a bigger post later. Keep shooting.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jlsanborn]

That'd be awesome! No shootin tonight tho. Monday Night Football ya know. My goal for tomorrow will be seam sealer on the cab. Any tips there? I'll tape the roof top along the drip rail. On places like the rockers can I just smoosh it with the finger and clean up? Lacquer thinner? Can I sand that stuff off?
Posted via Mobile Device

[butternut1972]

Looking good!
Posted via Mobile Device

[Bomp]

Looking good. What flavor of seam sealer you going to use?

[Low Elco]

Here's a pic for you to keep in mind-

Here's how I shoot base/clear. Lay your stuff out/hang it up, leaving plenty of room to walk around, this ain't primer, we don't want any dings here. Blow it all off, and wet the floor. Open a tack rag and spread it open and hang it up to dry out a bit. Crack a beer. Seriously. Put on your gloves.(you got some surgical gloves at the parts house, right? You WANT gloves.) Sip it while you wipe down with a brand compatible wax and grease remover. Strain your materials into the gun. (Ask for Sticks and strainers at the paint store, they're usually complimentary.) Wax and grease again, then tack down. Half the beer should be gone. Shoot your first coat of base. WALK AWAY (completely out of the shop) AND DRINK THE REST OF THE BEER, at the normal redneck rate, about 5-10 min. Come back in and look over your stuff. You should have a fairly good covering medium coat on. Check your edges, look for runs and dirt. If you have runs or big dirt, wet sand them out now with 600 and wipe down just the affected area lightly (lightly!) with wax and grease and tack off. Then tack the whole thing. Most small dirt and dust will go with the tack rag. Ok, if all is well, shoot your second coat, being real careful to get good coverage, and get your edges covered. Mind your edges and be sure to go all the way, ALL the way to the bottom of the body. Walk away and drink another half beer. Re-inspect. If all is well, Mix clear. If not, wet sand it out, clean up and re-base that part. When you're finally good, Load up clear gun. Tack off whole job and shoot. Now, on the first round, you just want a light to medium coat, a tack or scratch coat if you will. Very liberally get your edges. Walk away and drink half a beer. Come back and inspect. Bugs and big dirt can be snagged out with the sticky side of some masking tape, just barely touch the thing you want without touching the part. Runs can be handled the same way. Lay some 1/2 inch tape directly over the center of the run and set it lightly down on it (kiss it) and pop it right back off. Note:This only works when the clear is very wet and freshly shot. No touchie otherwise! If all is well, shoot coat two. Go for a nice, uniform coat this time. Mind your edges and be sure to go all the way, ALL the way to the bottom of the body. Walk away and drink half a beer, slowly. Come back and inspect. No touchie from here on in. Shoot coat # 3. Drink the rest of the sixer while cleaning guns and toasting you success. Enjoy your shiny paint job!

[Low Elco]

Seam sealer-use the good stuff from the paint store. I used LORD Fusor 800 EZ, and it is. Tape off the roof, and put a good bead in the groove, just like a bathroom. Put on your glove and dip into some lacquer thinner and smooth 'er out. Looks great when done.

[Low Elco]

Oh, don't forget to have Frampton's "Do you feel like I do?" and some ZZ top Blasting on the shop stereo while painting. This is crucial.

[jlsanborn]

I really appreciate you taking the time to write that up!



I'll have to check and see what seam sealer I got??? At Napa I just asked for some seam sealer that'll go in my standard caulking gun. It's tan in color I know.

Can I scuff that epoxy with the red scotch brite or should I use the P150?

Why do you use a different gun for clear? Is it a different style of gun or are you just concerned with contamination?

I did pick up a Pioneer tuner last week and it ROCKS!

[Low Elco]

You should-I'm a shi##y typist! Ha! My seam stuff is tan, goes on buttery, kinda like really smooth brownie batter. Regular caulk gun. If you're gonna prime again, go 150, give it some tooth. If not, red scotchbrite. I use the same gun, base and clear, a Sharpe Finex. The tip is A little big for base, a little small for clear. Pros will have multiples for speed. I've seen six guns loaded at a time, swappin' 'em out. A pro clear gun will also have all the air and fluid passages hogged out in it, running like a 2.0 tip. It's like welding Aluminum, you better be movin' when you pull that trigger, and haul azz once you're flowin'! I'm a cheap azz, I just clean mine good and blast away. I shot 90% of Boppa's with it. Tony let me use his old Iwata LPH 400, and it was niiiice. It's hard to paint with a chubby, but I persevered! BTW, if Momma ain't out in the shop gripin' about the noise, you need a bigger stereo, Hoss. Just some MO redneck guidelines.

[jlsanborn]

Haha! The other day I was at the fence talking with the neighbor. She asked if I was in a band.

[Low Elco]

Mine are usually over listening to it, drinking my beer, hiding from their wives, etc.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jlsanborn]

So Johnny got pissed 2nite and had to walk away. The closer I looked, the more disappointed I am with the body work I've done. Then I look back at the bedsides, wheel tubs etc... and remember what I set out to do in the first place - driver, NOT show car. There's a ton of dings back there that I didn't even bother with. I'm getting kookey man! Really, I think it looks pretty good and sometimes I just have to step back and remember big picture.

I scuffed on that epoxy a bit, just where I've got obvious repairs to make and I'm worried I didn't get it on there heavy enough. It sure don't take much with P180 to get to metal. It was one wet coat. I had sags in a couple spots so I don't think I could have put it on much heavier???? Dunno.....

Then the seam sealer. The stuff I have has about the exact consistiency as Liquid Nails. Its much thicker than I was expecting. This crap is WAY STICKY too. I did some some inconspicuous areas then tried to "smooth" it a bit with the finger tip - bad idea. Laquer thinner cuts it but it also cuts the epoxy - ugh!!!! I made a mess. I watched some Youtube videos where dudes taped along both sides of the seam, layed a basic bead, then brushed it out. They pulled the tape immediately. I think I'll try that, but I'm not real sure I've got the best goo here. I'm really not looking forward to the drip rails! Them are UGLY from the factory and it just seems like it'll take a ton to make it look decent.

[Low Elco]

Try mineral spirits to smooth sealer. Get some slick sand primer. You're gonna be lumpy after the mud block. That stuff is magic for smoothing all that stuff. Don't freak. Do one panel at a time and focus keenly on what's in front of your face. It'll be cool.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jlsanborn]

Thanks dude! I went back out after chow and things aren't as bad as I made it sound. I'll keep rolling with the seam sealer and I'll try mineral spirits. Who makes the SS? I don't think they have it at the Napa store I've been using. There's a PPG distributor and a Sherwin Williams close by.

[Low Elco]

I think evercoat makes it. The ppg store will know what youre talking about.
Featherfill G2 is even better for you. Google both of these names. Autobodystore.com will show it, so will Eastwood. Just mudwork and epoxy IS NOT ENOUGH. You'll have a bunch of work and dough and it'll look like crap. You and the kid need to get some long blocks and G2 and hunker down and prime and block that sucker. A lot. DO NOT BE INTIMIDATED BY THIS. It's dirt easy, but this is the long hard work that separates the men from the boys.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Bomp]

I agree. Block, Block, Block and a beer too
Great advise and Im taking notes.

[butternut1972]

^^^^^What they said^^ But mine went Beer, Beer, Block,Beer,etc...you get the idea. I guess thats why it took so long to get paint on it. Take your time Buddy it's looking great.

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

I agree, you definitely need to sand with a long board. vehicle surfaces are just to big to do without it. and when you think you done, your probably not. once everything is level, get in close to inspect for minor blemishes, pinholes. If you can see it, then you will see it in the paint as well. It does take time, but you will be very happy with the end result !

[jlsanborn]

Been mad busy the last couple of days with work, kids and such. Brown dropped off more stuff tho! Rear cab moulding, gas pedal, headlight bezels, vent window rivets and a Hurst shifter boot! I'm going to get some reducer for that black paint and some feather fill tomorrow. Still gotta get some sanding blocks and paper. Its gonna be a wood splitting weekend however. I'll get back on it soon!

Killed ANOTHER deer with the Crummy this morning. Bout a three point, square broadside at 50mph. Deer is TOAST, not even a scratch on the truck. Bumper was about neck high and he got sucked right under. At least I wasn't towing the boat this time! That one was EEEEW!
Posted via Mobile Device