SGTUSMC '59 build

[sgtusmc]

Originally Posted by 56taskforce

You are a nicer man than I I am not sure I would have blanked out Franks number

Hell no...he knows where I live.

[sgtusmc]

I picked up a new hot chick to help out in the garage LOL. 2 Year old English Bulldog.
I've been doing the boring stuff lately, loctite'n bolts and under coating. I'm getting close to mounting the cab for the last time. I'm hope'n by the end of the week.

[Red Foreman]

"How much for de gerlle"?

[OrrieG]

Good looking dog and nice collection of fine adjustment tools hanging on the work bench.

[sgtusmc]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Good looking dog and nice collection of fine adjustment tools hanging on the work bench.

hahaha...yeah they come in handy with fine tune'n or ending the life of something that won't work.

Well finished up the firewall. The finish wasn't perfect and I didn't want to mess with it any longer. So, I used paintable rubberized coating on it along with under the cab. The wife will be surprised to see the cab sitting there instead of her car. I hope she doesn't hope in and try to drive it!

[drivea55]

Originally Posted by sgtusmc

The finish wasn't perfect and I didn't want to mess with it any longer. So, I used paintable rubberized coating on it along with under the cab.

I used the same stuff on my firewall and under the cab. It says it is meant for bed liners and is paintable.

The way I see it, it feels very durable and should keep the nicks from stray road debris at a minimum.

great choice!

Brian

[OrrieG]

I used paintable undercoating from the vertical to diagonal transition down and on the bottom of the cab. Also inside the fenders and bed sides. Mine is a rattle can product from the paint store about $8 a spray can. So far I have used 4 cans.

[drivea55]

I was looking at the under coating stuff, but the bed liner product looks to be more durable in the long run.

almost 10 a can over here but after seeing how durable this stuff is, It is well worth it.

are you going to coat the inside of your floors with it too?

brian

[sgtusmc]

Originally Posted by drivea55

I was looking at the under coating stuff, but the bed liner product looks to be more durable in the long run.

almost 10 a can over here but after seeing how durable this stuff is, It is well worth it.

are you going to coat the inside of your floors with it too?

brian

Not sure if I'll use it inside at this point. I've been really looking at lizard skin for inside the cab.

[hotrodsbyray]

Check out hotrodders.com Alternative-lizard-skin thread. Those guys have figured out how to make your own coating that is almost dead-on for lizard skin but mongo cheaper. I may try their method to save a few bucks.

[sgtusmc]

Yeah, that's a good read. I've always liked hotrodders.com. I was really thinking about going with lizard skin. I bought five rolls of peel & seal for a dollar a roll at a local hardware store that was going out of buisness. So I guess I'll go that route again. I'm sealing up the cab and por-15 some of the rusty areas now.

[sgtusmc]

I won't get too mushy with you guy's. However, gotta say it, I love my fricken wife. I've been messing with the donor steering column for a while. Cutting it down, welding mounts to it, so it'll fit the 59. I'm not 100% sure if my wife doesn't trust my welding or she wanted something "pretty". But, a 30" CPP auto column was dropped off last night by the brown truck. Hell, this might be the motivation needed to get back out in the garage. Hope it fits.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

I used paintable undercoating from the vertical to diagonal transition down and on the bottom of the cab. Also inside the fenders and bed sides. Mine is a rattle can product from the paint store about $8 a spray can. So far I have used 4 cans.

I'm not doing a frame off restoration like you guys are but I thought about using the spray can stuff on the INSIDE floor, firewall and backwall below the windows then covering it with the Peel 'n Seal stuff. Any reason I shouldn't consider doing that?

Sarge, Give an extra hug to your wife for all the guy's whose wives barely tolerate that they work on trucks at all - not me, I got a divorce from that one 11 years ago

[sgtusmc]

Dan, I'm no expert at cab insulation. Peel & seal is very sticky. I highly doubt once it's laid down any air or moisture will ever get to the bare metal. I think if you paint first, it's only going to stick as well as the paint will hold. I'd be afraid the paint would give, allowing the P&S to lift. I'm going to lay down a second layer of P&S on the inside of the firewall. Then jute, and carpet. I "think" that would be enough to keep the heat & sound at bay.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by sgtusmc

Dan, I'm no expert at cab insulation. Peel & seal is very sticky. I highly doubt once it's laid down any air or moisture will ever get to the bare metal. I think if you paint first, it's only going to stick as well as the paint will hold. I'd be afraid the paint would give, allowing the P&S to lift. I'm going to lay down a second layer of P&S on the inside of the firewall. Then jute, and carpet. I "think" that would be enough to keep the heat & sound at bay.

Yeah, I completely agree with the idea that the Peel 'n Stick will only hold as well as whatever it is stuck to. Portions of my cab floor are worn to bare metal, other places there are remnants of old (and possibly later) paint. I feel funny about sticking the P&S to bare metal and I worry that the possibly later paint was just rattle can stuff. So that's why I was thinking I'd sand the entire thing to bare or REALLY strongly adhering facotry paint, then use the bedliner stuff. That in addition to the fact that it would just provide extra heat and noise insulation. Maybe I'm worrying unnecessarily about the bare metal?

My problem with starting on ANY of this is that I have an area where the floor meets the vent/kick panel that is rotted. Not a large area, but you know how that goes...it grows 3x (min!) when youstart cutting. Once I get that repaired I can do all this. I plan on using jute mat and carpet too.

[sgtusmc]

I took a wire wheel to the floor and got it down to bare metal. I did have a few small areas that were lightly pitted (about 1"x1") that I hit hard with the wire wheel and then used por-15 on.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Good info, thanks. I've got a can of KBS I'll use. The POR stuck hard to the wire wheeled metal?

I assme you tried and the P&S once stuck can't be pulled off?

[Delmo]

Looks great man.

[sgtusmc]

I got my column test mounted. I have to replace a section of firewall since the CPP is a 2"er. I didn't spend to much time with the stock trans linkage. But, I wasn't able to get the right shift to match the shift window. I'm thinking a cable set-up might be what I need for smoother shift. Any recommendations?

I also cut the seat mounts down to keep it under the window.

[LDO]

SgtUSMC,
looks good. Do you know if you can use the stock steering wheel with that column?

[sgtusmc]

Originally Posted by LDO

SgtUSMC,
looks good. Do you know if you can use the stock steering wheel with that column?

No, the groves do not match up. I have both my 53 and 59 wheels and neither will work.

[Rude Dude]

I have the same bench seat all I did was pie cut the back a re-welded. It was only about an Inch or so.

[Rude Dude]

Here is a better view from the inside weld

[Rude Dude]

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

Here is a better view from the inside weld

Wan't to concern on inside weld cause it was welded on both sides

[disturbinglykool]

Originally Posted by sgtusmc

My son found this pic of this 58. I don't know who it belongs to or any info on it, but this is the look we are going for.

That 58 was built by Nathan Hale at Hales Speed Shop in TX. Check out this video of it beating a new corvette on the strip.

1958 CHEVROLET TRUCK vs. CORVETTE @ NORTH STAR...