68 K-10 SWB build thread - project Money Pit...pics galore!

[msgross]

Got the floor and fenders from Jon, slightly damaged bedsides from Bill Athey (pickupman) and some other parts from Tim Christian.

I guess 68 was the only year with the angle brackets on the rear wall. The cab mount bolts screw up through them and another bolt goes down through to hold the to the floor. They are spot welded to the rear wall. Should make and easy rear alignment.

What measurements should I be concerned with?


The rust on the floor doesn't look so bad after you spill motor oil in it!

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by msgross

Got the floor and fenders from Jon, slightly damaged bedsides from Bill Athey (pickupman) and some other parts from Tim Christian.

I guess 68 was the only year with the angle brackets on the rear wall. The cab mount bolts screw up through them and another bolt goes down through to hold the to the floor. They are spot welded to the rear wall. Should make and easy rear alignment.

What measurements should I be concerned with?


The rust on the floor doesn't look so bad after you spill motor oil in it!

As many as you can take, I took some off the back window to the floor, but you have that bracket that will give you elavation. Diagonal DS 'A' to PS 'B' and conversely, rite everthing down for future referance, I put it rite on the cab

Didyou mount that new floorboard on your chassis yet?

[mahanian]

Originally Posted by msgross

I guess 68 was the only year with the angle brackets on the rear wall. The cab mount bolts screw up through them and another bolt goes down through to hold the to the floor. They are spot welded to the rear wall. Should make and easy rear alignment.

My 67's have those angle brackets as well, not quite sure what they are for.

Build is lookin good!

[jb4short]

Mike, I'd brace directly across the door openings and at least one top to bottom diagonal. What you have is good but you'll be suprised how much movement can come with no floor in it

[msgross]

I thought about that, I think the up and down diagonal will keep it braced.

I am gonna leave the main supports in the floor until after blasting.

[msgross]

didn't mount it yet... that might be a starting point though... make sure it fits....

wait, I can't because of the shifters, this is a low hump floor and my drivetrain is installed...

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by msgross

didn't mount it yet... that might be a starting point though... make sure it fits....

wait, I can't because of the shifters, this is a low hump floor and my drivetrain is installed...

Are you keeping it a low hump? Your build is looking good

[msgross]

I did pick up some new LMC marker lights from Rust Buster (board member) at Carlisle. Overall I would say that they are very similar to the original. Only difference is the pointy part and the rubber boot is missing from the aftermarket one's. OEM is on the right, new is in plastic and on the left. I need to compare the orange plastic color to an NOS one that I have...

[msgross]

I'm going back with a high hump, my firewall is a high hump and so is my new rubber floor mat.

Here is some progress... braced accross the door openings and took some measurements. Then out came the sawzall!!!

I'm leaving the bottom supports in till after blasting but I got this done in two hours...

I really need a hard wired sawzall... my batteries are dying to fast...

Now you can see some of the mess left by the PO...It was solid in parts, but not correct...

[msgross]

and some more...

[msgross]

and the cutting begins...

[msgross]

Well, I had a few extra hands at the house today so I figured that I would put them to work.

Since I had all the parts for my bed I needed a little motivation for the build. So why not install a SWB bed?

I still need to cleanup the cross members, picked them up a few years ago at Carlisle for about $100. mine where shot. The aftermarket panels needed a little motivation to go together but nothing a hammer can't fix. My bedside had some slight damage where the the front panels attach at the top....

[ChaseDale3and8]

Looking really good! Can't wait to see how well that cab floor comes together. I've been waiting quite a while to see somebody put one of those new cab floors in. Maybe someday they will start making them for the 73-87s too! They seem to be priced reasonable, and if they fit really well, would definately be a better alternative to trying to patch up an old floor in my opinion. Anyway, good work! Keep it up! I love watching this build! ...Joe

[msgross]

Originally Posted by ChaseDale3and8

Looking really good! Can't wait to see how well that cab floor comes together. I've been waiting quite a while to see somebody put one of those new cab floors in. Maybe someday they will start making them for the 73-87s too! They seem to be priced reasonable, and if they fit really well, would definately be a better alternative to trying to patch up an old floor in my opinion. Anyway, good work! Keep it up! I love watching this build! ...Joe

Thanks for the compliments.... the build kinda stalled for a bit when I left for 6 months, now i'm back on track and have some parts to keep me busy through winter....

There are a few guys that have done this floor... Tri-pro automotive's project GPW (also found in jaros44sr "po has me po'd build halfway through it)

[jaros44sr]

Looks nice Mike, next step to put your wood bed in it? What are you using to clean up the crossmembers?

More pics, more pics, or video...Take the banding off

[msgross]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Looks nice Mike, next step to put your wood bed in it? What are you using to clean up the crossmembers?

More pics, more pics, or video...Take the banding off

I'll either drop the crossmembers off at the sand blaster with the cab or clean them up with a wire wheel and then use etching primer on all of it....

ok, banding needs to come off...thanks

[msgross]

Then I figured that the ole'girl hadn't been started in nearly a year so it needs to be....

My radiator was shot last time so it was off to the recyclers. I started calling around for a new radiator and AutoZone sells one for $180, then NAPA was $280+tax and shipping for a Modine.

So I found www.radiators.com and called them up. The lady had a 3 core that would work but I told her I wanted a 4 core. She took my number and said that she would search for one. About 10 minutes later I get a call and she says that she has one that will work. It's a 4 core but had auto tranny cooler (i have a manual), shoudln't matter as long as I leave them plugged up. Price was $275 (made by the company that bought out Modine?) I asked her when I would get it and she stated that the driver was out and should be back in an hour????? What? Well, come to find out they are located in Harrisburg,PA and no BS I had this little car in my driveway an hour later. Lifetime warranty, copper and brass 4 core radiator for $290 total. Not cheap but that seems to be the rate for a decent one.

My dad and I installed the rad support and rad and fired up the 327 for a little disorderly conduct in the neighborhood....

[msgross]

I forgot to ask the guy if I am suppose to take the two bands off the radiator though...

[msgross]

did it have the squigly lumps under the center of the seat? I guess some didn't, not sure what it's for though...

[msgross]

Decided to take a break on Saturday and hit NYC with the wife, dad and one brother (they came in town from Indy)....

Yankees pulled it out in 13 friggin innings! They stop selling $10 beers after the 7th thankfully!

[68 short step]

the pic of the city looks cool. bet that was a lonnnng game

[msgross]

Then got back out in the garage for a few hours today.

Rest of the floor is out except the firewall portion and the rear area. I'm gonna make an appointment with the media blaster...and finish those areas up this week. i did notice that my high hump floor has a center brace that the replacement 2WD floor doesn't. Guess i'll pull it off and clean it up as well.

Gotta love rust!

Do you think I should go with Coal slag media (the blaster does indutrial trailers and already did my axles, springs etc..) I would have him avoid the large sheetmetal areas like the roof and back wall. Probably run $200 I bet.

Or should I go with a local guy that does bodywork and uses Garnet? He charges $90/hour and will probably cost me $300+.

[msgross]

Should I epoxy primer it or etch primer it after blasting?

[estig70]

nice work MS, I had been wondering why the build had slacked off.

Eric

[msgross]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

the pic of the city looks cool. bet that was a lonnnng game

I need to see if I have one that's not as blurry. The sun reflection turns the buildings gold in the evening, that from the Jersey side of the hudson. Very long game, 5 1/2 hours I think...

Originally Posted by estig70

nice work MS, I had been wondering why the build had slacked off.

Eric

Thanks, Uncle Sam said that I needed to go to school for 6 months over the winter, then I really didn't feel like messing with it when I got back home. Now I have cleaned out some of my storage parts and picked up replacement parts so i'm back on stride. Oh yeah, mama gave me a few bucks to get things rolling again...