My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

[jlsanborn]

Thanks Mike! Ya, that part where I said it was "fun" just wore off.... The orange peel inside is pretty heavy and SUCKS to sand. That part is going to take a while. On a good note, I added thinner like Elco said on the last shot and that stuff layed out slick!! Next round should be WAY easier.

[Bomp]

Glad to hear someone gets to mess around with their truck. Congratz man. I on the other hand worked 12,10,12,10,12 and 8 on saturday and another 8 tomorrow, (Sunday).
Gonna take Mon-Wed off to work on the '66 and rip out rosebushes.

Glad to see all the great work. Your making it look easy.
You could have your own show,"Wood Haulin' and Body wor....no....ah,,.....Wood Haulin' and Killin' Flies!

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Glad to hear someone gets to mess around with their truck. Congratz man. I on the other hand worked 12,10,12,10,12 and 8 on saturday and another 8 tomorrow, (Sunday).
Gonna take Mon-Wed off to work on the '66 and rip out rosebushes.

Glad to see all the great work. Your making it look easy.
You could have your own show,"Wood Haulin' and Body wor....no....ah,,.....Wood Haulin' and Killin' Flies!

Thanks Bomp! Props to Elco and John here on helping me through. It's Autobody 101 on the internet! I'd love to grab a chain and come help you yard rosebushes out but I bet it'd be a grandy in fuel

Ya know that myth about flies only living for like two days or some $hit? BUSTED! I went to pick that sucker off and ITS ALIVE!!!! Scared the snot outta me really. Bet that hurt when I ripped his little a$$ off there leaving his wings behind

That's a $hit-ton of hours to work dude. What are you doin for all that time? Haulin home the bacon I hope! Anxiously await an update to your build!

[jlsanborn]

Wifey and I wound up with an empty nest tonight so I pulled the plug. Got almost all the orange peel knocked off the interior. Just have the ceiling to do then the door jambs With any luck I'll be shooting some COLOR next week

Question:
Do I need to get all my Butternut in one lot so I don't wind up with variations in tint each batch???? When wifey buys interior paint she does it that way.

[butternut1972]

Lookin' good Buddy! The way your moving your going to be done before me.

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by butternut1972

Lookin' good Buddy! The way your moving your going to be done before me.

Thanks dude! Just gotta watch the budget to keep rolling. Member that boat I want to upgrade?

[Low Elco]

John, I'd go a tad more base. Two good rounds of the whole thing and the inner fenders and some misc was ALL of 2 gallons. Again, I was using an admittedly thin yellow base, but these trucks get big in a hurry! I think I used 2 1/2 gal of Nason clear on 3 full coats and one redo of the hood. Just my dos centavos, señor.
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[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Thats true, I wasnt thinking about what might be getting painted. on mine 4 gallons sprayable will be plenty, but I'm not doing inner fenders or underside of the hood. also the inside of the bed. thats alot of surface area.

[Low Elco]

Oh hell, I thought you were talking sprayable. That'll be more than enough. I'll take my dumb azz over here and hush up now. Are you gonna Al's the bed?
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[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Hey elco, I did put 1:1, maybe it was fine print though. lol ! Now I'm the idiot... I'm guessing Al is some kind of liner. for now thats what I'll be doin. Were takin over Sanborns thread. lol

[Low Elco]

Al's Liner. Good stuff but a bit of a pain. You can see it in yeller's thread. We're talkin technical painter type stuff, he's learning !
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[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by XxCHEVYMANxX

Hey elco, I did put 1:1, maybe it was fine print though. lol ! Now I'm the idiot... I'm guessing Al is some kind of liner. for now thats what I'll be doin. Were takin over Sanborns thread. lol

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Al's Liner. Good stuff but a bit of a pain. You can see it in yeller's thread. We're talkin technical painter type stuff, he's learning !
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Got that right about me learning! I'm just barely in primer and people are asking if I've done this before. I'm like "Nope, thunk it on the eenernet".

[Low Elco]

Not hard to tape that at all, and I like the frames white. Me being me, I'd lay a silver stripe down and two tone the outside AND inside of the cab, just to screw with the citizens! It's not hard, especially with base. WOO WOO 800th post!

[jlsanborn]

I bought the rear cab / paint divider moulding and still have to install them little screw in studs before base coat. All that front moulding is another buck-twenty-five but I don't really like the hood edge piece. I was gonna just do body color up there til I saw Cloud 9's nose. It' ain't grown on me enough yet but it's sinking in.... I mentioned two-tone interior to the Boy about 30 minutes ago and boy did I got the STINK-EYE! Notice his absense at this stage!? THANKS FOR THE HELP WANKER! Once the wrenches come back out I'll be looking over his shoulder again!!!!

Got the interior and driver's door jamb flattened out and buffed. If I could kick myself in the balls for that mess I would. Maybe a blessing in disguise tho. It looks KILLER!!! Well back to the passenger side......

CONGRATS Elco on 800+!!

[Low Elco]

Thank ya kindly! See now is your golden opportunity to show the kid that cool costs, and here's where you start payin'. In sweat.
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[jlsanborn]

Did my second block at P150 tonight. Found just a few itty-bitty low spots that I think the third coat of hi-build I just layed down will fill. Tomorrow I'll lay into it with the P240 and see how it looks!
My plan is to entirely paint the cab, paint all the other panels separate then hang them. I know some folks do the interior and jambs and paint the exterior after assembly. Pros / cons????

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Sound like things are coming along nicely, You can shoot it like you want, just make sure you put the same amount of coats on everything. The only reason I'm doing all the exterior at the same time is because of the metallic paint.

[Bomp]

I've always tried to shoot the whole enchilada at once cause I lay it on thick if I have extra paint left over in the gun on the last panel. Very bad habit. Very bad. Its the miser in me.
You've done great so far. Do it how you feel most comfortable. Can't wait to see it.

[jlsanborn]

UGH, that P240 is a drag man! I layed the "tan-in-a-can" guide coat on like dust thin. You get about ten swipes with the block and its stuck full of boogers. I have one of them donkey shlong sanding belt cleaners that is saving me. I can take a few wipes with the block then drag it across the corner of the dildo to clean the paper. Constantly wiping the dust off the surface too. I used a mile of paper and after an hour just got the roof done! It's not just the guide coat neitha. Even after I'm through that it's still just clogging bad. Am I missing something here?

[jlsanborn]

Things are going better for me here tonight! Just had to walk away and think! Keep the paper fresh, go SLOW and EASY! $hit's peelin right off and leaving a real nice finish.

Questions....
Even at the P240 I'm seein small spots of metal (fingernail at most) in a few places. Nothing in the big flat areas, just when I get to a hard corner or similar. Think one coat of G2 over that (I'll spot spray the thin spots before my full coat) then wetsand P400 is good?

After the wetsand P400, is it cool to wipe it down with the maroon scotchbrite? I've done that after the P240 just to clean the tan-in-a-can off the crevices and such. Is the maroon pad gonna leave scratches?

Thanks Elco for the Online Autobody Institute!

[Low Elco]

First, you're welcome! Glad to help, but if I'm your guide, you're in deep trouble! Ok, you need GUIDE COAT. SEM GUIDE COAT, if not the really good 3m rub on stuff. Anything else is ****e, especially in the finer grits. Seriously. It'll gum you up terrible, and if you're using spray bomb enamel, if you leave some on under your urethane, it can make it do impressively wacky things! You can use some spare base and thinner mix in your gun in a pinch. Yes, you can use red scotchbrite to scrub in your edges, especially with solid colors. You need green (finer) scotchbrite for metallics, especially if THEY'RE fine. Confused? Good! Open a beer, Bunkie, you're on the road! With solids, if your color is all mixed together, and your prime is all the same color, you can shoot in pieces, but you have to be very sure you run the same amount of coats on all pieces or your shades will vary. It's no biggie, just keep track. With metallics, you want the cut ins done and the truck loosely assembled, because all your metallic needs to lay the same way and in the same amount over the whole truck. Keep it up, and don't never, ever ever, ever eeeeeever, use spray bomb enamel for guide coat. Have fun slickin' it up! Wait till after 400, your primer will be shiny! Tip: soak a clean blue paper towel in a brand compatible wax and grease remover after you 400, and lay a nice wet sheet across the panel with it. Look at the wet surface, it'll show if you left any big scratches. Toodles!
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[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

First, you're welcome! Glad to help, but if I'm your guide, you're in deep trouble! Ok, you need GUIDE COAT. SEM GUIDE COAT, if not the really good 3m rub on stuff. Anything else is ****e, especially in the finer grits. Seriously. It'll gum you up terrible, and if you're using spray bomb enamel, if you leave some on under your urethane, it can make it do impressively wacky things! You can use some spare base and thinner mix in your gun in a pinch. Yes, you can use red scotchbrite to scrub in your edges, especially with solid colors. You need green (finer) scotchbrite for metallics, especially if THEY'RE fine. Confused? Good! Open a beer, Bunkie, you're on the road! With solids, if your color is all mixed together, and your prime is all the same color, you can shoot in pieces, but you have to be very sure you run the same amount of coats on all pieces or your shades will vary. It's no biggie, just keep track. With metallics, you want the cut ins done and the truck loosely assembled, because all your metallic needs to lay the same way and in the same amount over the whole truck. Keep it up, and don't never, ever ever, ever eeeeeever, use spray bomb enamel for guide coat. Have fun slickin' it up! Wait till after 400, your primer will be shiny! Tip: soak a clean blue paper towel in a brand compatible wax and grease remover after you 400, and lay a nice wet sheet across the panel with it. Look at the wet surface, it'll show if you left any big scratches. Toodles!
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Man I really appreciate the words, especially peckin em out on the mobile! I hope you have a cool phone or some voice to text app!! I don't know anyone personally that knows $hit about this. I've read THE BOOK online and every joe has his own method and materials. You're the one that is offering advice and I practically saw your last job with my own eyes. So no, I don't think I'm in trouble at all. I really feel like I'm on the right track and everything is coming out better than I'd hoped so far ('cept the seam sealer, I'm still not real happy with that).

I am using an actual guide coat (tan-in-a-can). It's Martin Senour 7233 (reads acetone and talc, plus a whole bunch of other nasty stuff). I'm thinking that in this cold weather it just needed more time to dry. Tonight the stuff wiped off clean with minimal clogging. After the last block I wiped it down with W/G remover and I know what you're sayin. When it's wet you can really see how nice it is (and the scratches that are left).

Now you scared me a bit with the "brand compatible" statement in regards to the wax and grease remover. There's a difference? I bought the stuff from the dude that's sold me all the other stuff so I hope I haven't done something bad here. It reads naptha and mineral spirits.....

I'll be all solid colors and will plan on spraying everything while its apart. If you think I should buy the whole lot of paint and mix it all into one batch that's what I'll do. Just wonder how much sprayable I'm gonna need??? I'm hopeful that I'll shoot some color this weekend!!!!

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

You would know already if your W/D is compatible, because your primer would wrinkle or get gummy when you wipe it on. so you should be ok there. seam sealer is designed to stay flexible, and will take a long time to cure at low temps. thicker takes even longer ( like drip rail opposed to rocker seams ). I would say dont get near it with block sanding. just do the scotch bright thing. Good talkin with you yesterday, keep movin forward, and listen to the elco !

[Low Elco]

x2 on the above, except to say that all these things are formulated to work together. It's the coats after the W/G that are the concern. Wax and grease remover shouldn't be a problem, (I used PPG before Nason on Yeller, 'cause that was what was at the shop) Lots of guys are paranoid about that, but whatever works for ya. Your guide sounds good, but yeah, you gotta let that stuff dry. Glad to hear you had an easier time. Don't be po'ed about the seam sealer, you want it to stay flexible. Like Cman said, just cut it a wide berth with the block. YOu did round off one edge of your Durablocks, right? They get a bit sharp on the small details. Important tip: especially from here on in, NEVER just use your fingers and paper. You can dig finger tracks faster than you can imagine. Take a used piece of scotchbrite and fold it in thirds, wrap your DA paper around it, works great. Keep it up, you're doing good. This is the edge of the cliff where it all starts to come together and be worth it. Kind of like being out in the woods, just keep walkin', you'll get there!

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by XxCHEVYMANxX

You would know already if your W/D is compatible, because your primer would wrinkle or get gummy when you wipe it on. so you should be ok there. seam sealer is designed to stay flexible, and will take a long time to cure at low temps. thicker takes even longer ( like drip rail opposed to rocker seams ). I would say dont get near it with block sanding. just do the scotch bright thing. Good talkin with you yesterday, keep movin forward, and listen to the elco !

Good talking to you too man! I did find some pics of OG '67 two tones and you're right about the window frames and the A pillars. I still think I'm going to white them tho. On one hand I'd like to stick to '67 only stuff, but on the other it's pretty custom already so I think I'll go with what I think looks cool, just like you said. The seam sealer is finally pretty hard now. The very bottom of the vertical drip rails is still kinda soft but it'll firm up. I wasn't trying to sand the primer on there but was trying to block down as close as I could. Here and there I got too close and doinked it with the corner of the block. I touched it up and am ok with it but overall I think I could have done a better job. It wasn't until I was almost done that I really figured out how to lay the crap down nice.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

x2 on the above, except to say that all these things are formulated to work together. It's the coats after the W/G that are the concern. Wax and grease remover shouldn't be a problem, (I used PPG before Nason on Yeller, 'cause that was what was at the shop) Lots of guys are paranoid about that, but whatever works for ya. Your guide sounds good, but yeah, you gotta let that stuff dry. Glad to hear you had an easier time. Don't be po'ed about the seam sealer, you want it to stay flexible. Like Cman said, just cut it a wide berth with the block. YOu did round off one edge of your Durablocks, right? They get a bit sharp on the small details. Important tip: especially from here on in, NEVER just use your fingers and paper. You can dig finger tracks faster than you can imagine. Take a used piece of scotchbrite and fold it in thirds, wrap your DA paper around it, works great. Keep it up, you're doing good. This is the edge of the cliff where it all starts to come together and be worth it. Kind of like being out in the woods, just keep walkin', you'll get there!

Picked up the P400 today. I pulled her out for another blow (no money shot tho!) and swept out the fun-dome again. Got everything settled back in and shot a real light coat of guide on there. Wetsand tomorrow!!! Great tip on the Scotchbrite sanding block! I really need a clue on how much yella to buy so I can mix it into one batch. You used a bucket to equalize then put it back into the gallon cans??