1952 Chevy Vette Farm Truck Build

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

In regards to your comments about the batwing being square to the frame, if the final ride height is set level and the rear pinion is set to 0 degrees, the batwing would be square to the frame. I have a 1.5" rake and the pinion set to 2 degrees so that would make my batwing not square. I think I have somewhat of a understanding of this now. Correct me if I'm wrong. Hopefully a bunch of us can get this hammered out.

When talking angles, I'm referencing the frame, not the road after adding rake. Russell complicates by saying 0 degrees, then parallel with the road. Add rake, and the angles to the road could be more than 3 degrees. Looking at my oil pan, I don't think it is critical to have the engine parallel to the road. I think I'm going to stab the engine in first, and see where it is at before mounting the batwing.

[FarmerSid]

ya but the batwing has to be installed with the drive shafts set at at slight down ward angle as they are 90 degrees from the main drive shaft from the factory for correct u joint geometry. I installed my batwing with mock up wooded wheels at the diameter of wheels I intend to run. The frame was set to the desired height and rake I wanted. Once that was determined, the batwing was tacked into place. I just installed the IRS and IFS the way GM did in the Vette and fit my frame to those settings.

I agree that the engine doesn't have to be parallel to the road. Just that whatever angle you have it at, do the same with the rear so that the angles cancel one another out. Looks like my engine will tilt down about 1.8 degrees for cab clearance so I will set my rear pinion up the same amount. The batwing mounts have some flex so I can shim the carrier bracket or make a new one so I don't have shims.

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

ya but the batwing has to be installed with the drive shafts set at at slight down ward angle as they are 90 degrees from the main drive shaft from the factory for correct u joint geometry. I installed my batwing with mock up wooded wheels at the diameter of wheels I intend to run. The frame was set to the desired height and rake I wanted. Once that was determined, the batwing was tacked into place. I just installed the IRS and IFS the way GM did in the Vette and fit my frame to those settings.

I assume you meant half shafts? Looking down, my half shafts are not 90 degrees to the drive line. They angle back about 2 degrees. That should be good for the u-joints. Unfortunately I don't have a donor corvette to get the factory dimensions from.

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

The batwing mounts have some flex so I can shim the carrier bracket or make a new one so I don't have shims.

This helps me a lot. My plan was to mount the batwing brackets 90 degrees to the frame, then shim the pinion as needed, hoping there is enough flex in the mounts. I'm going to get started today. Can't decide if I should put the engine in first to see where it lines up.

[BIGglaSS]

Sorry to take your thread off track. I just measured a few angles. Batwing to pinion is 90 degrees, and oil and transmission pan to crank is 3 degrees. Common sense tells me to install the engine with the pans level to the frame. Then mount the batwing 3 degrees up so it is parallel to the crank. Why would GM not make the pan and the crank level? Otherwise if you install the crank level to the frame, by the time you add rake for stance, the pans are even further from level.

[FarmerSid]

Hey All! Need some help if I can. Found a complete wiring harness out of a 2004 5.3 Chevy truck with no engine or tranny. Seller is not interested in removing but will sell it to me if I remove it myself. Would you guy's mind explaining to me how to remove it and what parts of the harness I need?

Thanks!

[lower50's]

Hey Sid sorry I'm late to the party. Just read your whole build!! Your fabrication is amazing, love what you are doing. With the independent suspension it should handle like a auto cross truck. Just think, these trucks are 60+ years old. Most of us rebuilding won't use them as work trucks and will take care of them they should last way more than 60 years. If I'm not too late, don't go with the biscuit type motor mounts. I have them in my Jeep haven't been happy with them since day one (motor moves around a bit unless they are cranked tight) Keep up the good work and we should meet up when our trucks are done.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Hey All! Need some help if I can. Found a complete wiring harness out of a 2004 5.3 Chevy truck with no engine or tranny. Seller is not interested in removing but will sell it to me if I remove it myself. Would you guy's mind explaining to me how to remove it and what parts of the harness I need?

Thanks!

Everything!

In seriousness, you want to have most of it to start from (Even though you're going to parse some of it out later). I can't remember, are you going DBW on this build? Because it's important to match cable/DBW stuff.

Anyways, I would try to get everything you can in the engine bay, including the wiring that goes down to the trans and the O2 sensors. You'll find the harness is pretty much a standalone piece, except where it goes through the firewall on the driver's side, and at the fuse block. I would keep the fuse block if you can, or the connectors if not (they unbolt underneath it) and just cut away any wiring that goes to the lights and the horns and such. Inside the cab, really all you need is the wiring that goes to the pedals (if it's a DBW truck) and the brake light switch.

[FarmerSid]

Thanks lower50's. I ended up making tube type engine mounts. I had left over bushings from the Vette bushing kit so I made mounts to use them. I have pictures but haven't updated things here in a bit.

JJ, the engine is DBW. I already got the gas pedal, harness from it that goes through the fire wall up to the TAC and the TAC module. These came from an 04. The same truck I got the front accessories bracket from. This is the same truck I can get the harness from. The ECM is still there to and will grab it.

[FarmerSid]

Here's a few pics.

2010 Camaro manifolds that are a bit too wide. Would have to notch the frame in order to use them.

[FarmerSid]

Engine mount mock up.







Had to modify the tranny hump and make it a bit bigger.

[FarmerSid]

Few more of the engine mounts mocked up and engine to rad clearance. I have about 3 1/2" clearance. You can see where I had to "clock" the steering rack to get the lines on the front. They were on top from the factory. I need to source a 98-02 Camaro oil pan as the truck one hangs down way low.

[FarmerSid]

A few of the finished engine mounts.











And painted and installed.

[FarmerSid]

Tranny mount using the extra poly bushings that came with the Vette bushing kit.







A few of the overall frame with drive shaft hoop.

[FarmerSid]

Found a guy parting out an 04 truck. Went and grabbed some parts that my engine didn't come with. PWR steering bracket cleaned up as well as coils, wires and brackets. Also got a near new starter and alternator. Also snagged the gas pedal, wiring and TAC.

[BIGglaSS]

Sid, love the frame and the motor mounts. It has really turned into a work of art. Take a look at 2005 GTO manifolds. They angle back a little bit more, and may clear your frame.

[Advanced Design]

I agree Sid, the mounts are a work of art. Very nice!

[oldman3]

Sid, super nice work, this is going to be one sweet ride...Jim

[99 to Life]

sid, really nice work and pics. Love the engine and trans mounts. As for the pan, unless you can find one used, here is a conversion one that should work. cheapest I'v found that comes with everything.
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance...12593/10002/-1

[JJorgensen52]

Really like what you ended up with for the trans mount and driveshaft loop. It's looking great!

[Nut Case]

FarmerSid Do you have before and after "clocking" the steering rack? If you do, I'd like more details on how to do it and how far it got rotated. Thanks for the pics of the motor mts, I'm going to followed you plan, it's great. Your solutions are great, I'm going to use a number of your brackets. Thanks NC

[Blue1952]

That looks great, awesome work

[xpickup]

FarmerSid, Looks great, love all the cut outs in all the mounts. Nice added detail.

Shannon

[lower50's]

Sid the mounts are sick!!!! Looking good!!

[FarmerSid]

Thanks guy's! The wife just shakes her head at the time I spend down in the barn. She thinks all I do is play around and drink beer. Well........a little of that too. LOL! At least you guy's appreciate the time and effort it takes.

99, I've seen that pan kit but I thinks it's still too deep. Looks like an F body pan is the way to go.

Nut case, check out this thread.

http://www.trifivechevys.com/showthr...nversion-frame

This is pretty much what I did. I can post some pictures of when I did it but I only have a few. Pretty easy. The two pins came out easy. Just make sure you have the vise grips on good and tight and have a good bite before attempting to remove them. Don't want to bugger up the pins. There is an "O" ring under the head. I rotated mine 90 degrees but you could go farther. If you went 180 you wouldn't have to drill new holes and your lines may still be long enough to work. I think I should have went 180 for those reasons. No drill shavings to worry about too. Need more info just holler.

Not a big update on the build but I slapped together a frame rotisserie from stuff I had around. Now I can flip the frame around pretty easy. Should have done this long ago. How come none of you alley cats didn't yell at me to make one? LOL!

Let me see if I can find a pic or two. Don't laugh too hard at it. Now I can roll the frame outside for priming.

[FarmerSid]

Here's a few pics of the rotisserie.