Wife's 48

[Tempest67]

I think you should start adding metal before you cut out any more.

I see the 2 inner braces on the new firewall (interior). I think I would start by attaching them to the upper firewall with sheet metal screws. This will allow the new firewall to hang in place while you position the floor pieces, and allow you to move it up or down as needed. (reposition the sheet metal screws)

I see your floor pieces include about 12 inches of firewall. My 51 has a seam at the floor/firewall that bends outward, and that is where the 2 pieces are spot welded together.... is that what you want? or you could cut a straight edge on the floor piece, just above the bend, and use that to lap weld the pieces together?...not factory, but plenty strong.

many ways to 'skin this cat', just take your time, and don't start welding till everything fits together........... just my 2 cents

Keep us posted, and enjoy the process.

[8man]

Thanks Tempest, that is what I was going to do. However, the SIL's uncle has a machine shop here and I've talked to them about doing the full floor. To do that I need the firewall out so I can get the floor in. I'll brace it up some more before I remove any more of the existing floor, and only then when I have the new floor ready to go in.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by 8man

Thanks Mark.

Marc, why didn't you tell me? I would have gladly swapped.

Funny I didn't realize I had the issues until I tried to bolt up my freshly painted plates to keep them from getting all scratched up...ha ha. I guess I will repaint them after a slight modification.

Marc

[doowoppwer]

I like your progress. roger

[joedoh]

nice work! I am doing the same repair this week so thanks for the how-to

[oldman3]

Robert, looks really good...Jim

[mongocanfly]

looking good

[8man]

Thanks guys!

I'm learning as I go, but I am enjoying these builds.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

Thanks guys!

I'm learning as I go, but I am enjoying these builds.

"I don't usually take on rusty old trucks as projects,
but when I do, I take on two at once!"

__________________
8man-aka Robert

[8man]

Ok, now that's funny!

[8man]

Ok, a little color would be nice!
IMG_0514 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Got it on the inner fenders for a start to see. Laura liked it, so it's a go.

Did the running boards and did a little bed liner on the top of the ridges.
IMG_0513 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Should help with "slippery when wet" and protect that metal flake forest green paint! I hope.

[dsraven]

8man, that's some serious "sound deadener" build up you have there. gotta love it when you start sanding and find that. an inch thick in places on my rear fenders. hammer/dolly and slapper with ample time and my fenders have no bondo, just some high build over a base of epoxy.
keep pluggin away, it's coming along nicely.

[8man]

Thanks Raven.

I had not thought about the sound deadening aspect of that much bondo! Still think I prefer good metal.

[8man]

The Dynacorn firewall fits pretty good, except in the corners where it meets th kick panels.

IMG_0481 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

You can see how the kick panel is up against the support under it, but the black firewall has a "sharp" corner and not a rolled corner that is keeping it up about 3/4". I beat on the kick panel a bit, but it's not the problem.

How do I roll that "corner" to fit my kick panel?

I think if I could roll that corner to the right radius (or close) it would drop the 3/4" and fit.

[joedoh]

could slice it with a cutoff wheel every 1/2" or so and bend it a section at a time? unless I am misunderstanding the problem.

great progress!

[8man]

Thanks Joe.

I thought about it a lot and today I made a template that fit the curve of the cab. Then I drilled a hole large enough to get the blade of a small reciprocating saw through, cut the lip in to and cut out enough of the firewall to hammer the lip back up to the firewall, then I welded it up. IT FIT! I was amazed. I mean the measurements are within 1/8". So I welded up the holes for the pedals in the firewall as well. I will have to drill 2 new holes for the hood spring, as the firewall has the mounting holes about 1/4" higher than the old firewall, but that should work.

Now I'm waiting for the floor to be built so I can put it in and then weld the firewall in.

[joedoh]

woop woop! glad to hear it worked!

[dsraven]

yeah, umm,no pic, didn't happen.

haha

good you got it figured out.

[8man]

Thanks Joe and Raven, and Raven it really did happen. I'll get some pics when I go to put it in for real.

[8man]

Raven, a couple of pics

This is the paper template on top of the firewall after I had adjusted it.
IMG_0482 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Here is where I worked on the corner. I didn't grind down the weld as I'm going to be welding on it some more when I put it in place, and it will be covered with sound deadener and carpet.
IMG_0483 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I don't want to put the firewall back in until I get the floor in. As I've said I'm having a complete floor built from a sheet of 16 gauge. I've put some tape on the floor where I'm going to cut and in front of that tape gets pulled out.
IMG_0484 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The piece I'm leaving just in front of the upright is so there will be a lip that I can spot weld the floor too, or turn the cab up on the back and weld it up.

That brings me to the question and answer part of the program. I ask the question and you answer.

I'm having the floor cut so that if fits by measuring side to side in several places and front to back, they are to fold the back up in a 90 so it goes up against the factory upright, I'll spot weld the floor to the upright. Then at the doors it will be folded down like the original. The front will run out the front and I'll bend it to fit the firewall when I get it in. Once I set the cab on the frame I'll cut out for the tranny, so no big opening to cover.

Questions:
Am I missing anything? Will it be ok for the floor to be flat? Will I need some stiffeners added to the bottom of the floor (I'm guessing yes)?

I intend to weld the floor to the kick panel at the bottom joint. Is there any reason not to do that?

Thanks for thinking about this.

[Tempest67]

your firewall is looking good,

When I replaced my floor, I found that without the seat frame, it needed an additional floor brace, even with the rolled beads

I used a 3 x 1 steel tube, flanged the ends and welded it to the inner rockers.

[Tinbasher]

Originally Posted by 8man

Raven, a couple of pics

This is the paper template on top of the firewall after I had adjusted it.
IMG_0482 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Here is where I worked on the corner. I didn't grind down the weld as I'm going to be welding on it some more when I put it in place, and it will be covered with sound deadener and carpet.
IMG_0483 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I don't want to put the firewall back in until I get the floor in. As I've said I'm having a complete floor built from a sheet of 16 gauge. I've put some tape on the floor where I'm going to cut and in front of that tape gets pulled out.
IMG_0484 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The piece I'm leaving just in front of the upright is so there will be a lip that I can spot weld the floor too, or turn the cab up on the back and weld it up.

That brings me to the question and answer part of the program. I ask the question and you answer.

I'm having the floor cut so that if fits by measuring side to side in several places and front to back, they are to fold the back up in a 90 so it goes up against the factory upright, I'll spot weld the floor to the upright. Then at the doors it will be folded down like the original. The front will run out the front and I'll bend it to fit the firewall when I get it in. Once I set the cab on the frame I'll cut out for the tranny, so no big opening to cover.

Questions:
Am I missing anything? Will it be ok for the floor to be flat? Will I need some stiffeners added to the bottom of the floor (I'm guessing yes)?

I intend to weld the floor to the kick panel at the bottom joint. Is there any reason not to do that?

Thanks for thinking about this.

Hi 8man, because the floor is wider side to side at the back than the front i would order your sheet a little longer on the ends, with that you will have the ability to slide your floor either way until your folds are tight to the rocker. Just saying it because you have folds on both sides of the sheet and if they are off by even a metal thickness or 2 (which is a very easy mistake) it might give you issues. Nice work by the way!

[oldman3]

Nice job..Jim

[dsraven]

Nice work. You have a true hotrod. Built with what you got and how you engineered it for your wants and needs. Like mentioned, a little hammer and dolly work should take the stresses out of the steel and let it relax back into shape.

[8man]

Thanks Jim and Raven.