LFD's low buck truck build!

[WinDancer]

I can't say anything the others have not already said- you do great work and you fab skills are phenomenal! I would still be shaking my head back around page 3................
I really appreciate all the extra time you are taking for pics and write-ups and on top of that trying to share some parts with other members.
The only suggestion I have is for you to buy the house next door here in scenic Tenino WA. Then some of your skills could be shared even more!
Love this thread

[ortegamotor]

I see you got ottobaun chilling on the porch. the UPS guy must really like to deliver to your house. I am glad to see your build is coming right along and it look great. keep up the good work Kevin. Tony

[charlie diaz]

Awesome build Kevin!!! I've been just sitting back and enjoying the show, but now for a question. You said the compressor that you are using for the bags is military issue off of the hummers??? Where do you go about getting one?? It sounds like it's a surplus item, so I'm thinking its inexpensive, right?? I think this might be good info to add to the low-buck theme.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by charlie diaz

Awesome build Kevin!!! I've been just sitting back and enjoying the show, but now for a question. You said the compressor that you are using for the bags is military issue off of the hummers??? Where do you go about getting one?? It sounds like it's a surplus item, so I'm thinking its inexpensive, right?? I think this might be good info to add to the low-buck theme.

It came on a rock crawler that a old friend of mine built before he passed away and I purchased it from his family. It was a new item that he went in on a group buy with a few other people and if I remember right it was in the $700 range I would go th ethe wrecking yard and swipe the compressors off a few caddy's with air suspention. Hook up two or three in line and you are set. I still may do this as the one I have is on the large side of things.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Well some progress is better than no progress right? Had an hour to kill tonight so I set up the fuel lines from the new tank. Mine is a bit different because my tank is out of an 84 Blazer (full size, 25gal) that had a carb but I am using a EFI sending unit and pick up. I just pulled off the elect fuel pump (stored it for future use ) and bent up a 3/8 hard line into the shape of an "L" that slips into the same spot as the fuel pump did and just sits off the bottom of the tank. I added an EFI fuel filter right on the top of the tank to catch any garbage that may come out. I then added a 3/8" hard line from the filter to the old line under the cab. I just cut off the old line before the bend and put a flair on the end for the hose clamp to grab. Made my splice and added about 4gal of fuel and she fired right up after loading the fuel pump. I did not hook up the return line or vapor tube because the fuel pump on the truck does not have a return line and the line it self had rust inside it. I will cap off the return line and vapor lines up on the tank because some day this may get an EFI motor dropped into it

Well that is all for now

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$2987.82
95hrs

[72CSTC5]

An "hour" to spare. Yeah right! Like you have SOOO much spare time. Come spend your spare time with me!

[msgross]

Love the build,

Did your 3/8 line for the fuel filter have a normal 45 degree flare? Similar to a brake line? Reason I ask is because I picked up two pieces of Poly-Armour line from NAPA to use as my fuel line, already has flares and nuts... I could just add the filter in the middle to span the length of my frame...

Thanks

[Rokcrln]

No it is a GM O-ring fitting. I have a real nice hydro flairing tool that will do more things than I know what to do with.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[wibilly]

looking good but how do you plan to access that fuel filter?

[franky69c10]

looking good.........

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by wibilly

looking good but how do you plan to access that fuel filter?

It is tight but you can get it with the tire off and the right wrenches. If this was a carbed sender I would have placed it just in front of the tank.


Well I got the driveshaft today and it was $247.94 I had to go with a one piece shaft and it is all new except the tranny slip yoke. Turns out they figure the tube size by how long your shaft it. Mine is 62" and that works out to be a 3.5" tube size. They said a 3" might be ok but it is right on the boarder so I went with the 3.5" Also my two piece shaft was a 2.5" tube size so none of the parts would have worked and to use the two piece shaft I would have had to shorten the top half and lengthen the bottom and rebuild the entire thing. So a 3.5" all new one piece shaft was the best way to go and now I do not need to worry about it for a long time to come.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
$3235.76
95hrs

[Hart_Rod]

What diamter would a 95" one be?!

[msgross]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

What diamter would a 95" one be?!

hmmm, go find a flagpole and you're set!

[WinDancer]

Hey Kevin this is a great thread! I will be ordering my new driveshaft within a couple of weeks- 60.5 inch for my SWB with a short-shaft. Not sure of the cost until I take my ends in. I was told a 4" diameter would be best for the big-block.
I am impressed at how frugal you have been- and also see that you are already over $3,000. This is an expensive endeavor, but I love these old trucks!
Thanks again,

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by WinDancer

I am impressed at how frugal you have been- and also see that you are already over $3,000. This is an expensive endeavor, but I love these old trucks!
Thanks again,

Expensive My 71 has another 0 added to that number and it is not as far along as this one! I feel for what has been done and what is rebuilt or new for that price that it is cheap. It will be a 90% brand new truck when done I hope still for under 5k.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Hart_Rod]

Not to speak for Windancer, but, I think he meant even doing it frugally, the $$$ starts to add up. How much money is to much? I think it depends on how you use your trucks. If you drive it like a "truck" or it's your DD, $10K to $15K is no more expensive than buying a newer truck. If it's parked in the garage as a "toy", then, yeah it's a lot of money to just be sitting there for a weekend driver. I've got about $40K in parts (not counting) labor in my 48. That's a lot of money , but a new one would be just about as expensive and not nearly as cool . I can justify that to myself because I drive it a lot. The only way I'll get the money back out of it, will be through time and MILES.

Back to drive shafts, Kevin, the CrewCab originally had 3 drive shafts and 2 carrier bearings. Since I'm shortening the chassis, I would like to go with 2 drive shafts and 1 carrier bearing. Any idea how I should calculate how long the driveshafts should be and where the carrier bearing should go?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Not to speak for Windancer, but, I think he meant even doing it frugally, the $$$ starts to add up. How much money is to much? I think it depends on how you use your trucks. If you drive it like a "truck" or it's your DD, $10K to $15K is no more expensive than buying a newer truck. If it's parked in the garage as a "toy", then, yeah it's a lot of money to just be sitting there for a weekend driver. I've got about $40K in parts (not counting) labor in my 48. That's a lot of money , but a new one would be just about as expensive and not nearly as cool . I can justify that to myself because I drive it a lot. The only way I'll get the money back out of it, will be through time and MILES.

Back to drive shafts, Kevin, the CrewCab originally had 3 drive shafts and 2 carrier bearings. Since I'm shortening the chassis, I would like to go with 2 drive shafts and 1 carrier bearing. Any idea how I should calculate how long the driveshafts should be and where the carrier bearing should go?

No idea, I get all my drivshaft info from "Driveline services of Sacramento". I was just repeating what they were telling me.

Kevin
LFD inc.

[Rokcrln]

Sorry not alot but still moving forward piece by piece. Started on the brakes last night, I am replacing the wheel cyclinders, shoes, center hose, axel hard lines and adjusters on the rear. I cleaned all parts and painted the backing plates and outer drums then up front I am replacing the pads, both hoses and flushing the system. I am into parts for $175 and 2hrs down so far. The rear drums are painted and everything is back together and ready for new hard lines.

I found out my rear yoke on the pinion is warn out so now I get to replace that as well. I hope to have it up and running in the next few weeks. Sorry it is going so slow but life is moving very fast these days!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

While Lemon Drop is curing in the shop and I have a few days untill I can deliver the last of the parts I thought I would get Low Buck closer to the road. I was at the pick-n-pull I found a gas door that was not the standard shape and thought it might work out well. It is off a Mazda Miata and has a remote door release.

I started off by pulling the pass side wheel tub and found out were I wanted to mount the door for the best body curve fitment. I just kind of eye balled it and then checked the inside of the bed for any clearance problems. I then made a templet for the rough shape of the cut out and traced it to the bed side. I also added some location lines to keep things in place. These lines were also transfered to the gas door and the bed side. I then cut out the hole smaller than I would need just so the filler neck could fit in the bed side. I then traced the out side of the patch and keeped triming untill it fit. Then I welded it all in and ground it down.

Mixed up a bit of mud and put on a thin cote, let it dry and hit it with a long board and shapped it a bit. It only took a small second cote and sanded out real well. As I was doing this it was looking way off but with a little bit of tweaking it found its way. The door still needs a bit of hand tweaking and then on to mounting the door realease. I have not really messed with the filer tube yet because that will need some cutting and welding to fit its best. It will be visable inside the bed but not too much and it will be out of the way so it can still be used as a truck.

This step cost $9.50 for the door and $2.00 to get in. All of about 2.5hrs and it is to this piont and looking good if you ask me.

Kevin
LFD inc.
$3247.26
97.5hrs

[Rokcrln]

Body work!

[hgs_notes]

It's on the wrong side though. It just isn't right. Flip it around.

The round door is nice though.

[GREASEMONKEY72]

that looks good and the best part is its different then everybody else

[Frizzle Fry]

I like the fuel door. Nice job!

[Jwill41]

very nice

[1970bowtie]

when you get a chance will you post some more pics of your truck all back together, im thinking about cutting a long bed down now.