Project NOT4SLE

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by vegaschevy

All the arms as far as I know are identical. The difference in the drop comes with a spacer provided for on top of the coil for the 2" drop and 3" drop you just use the arms no spacer for the coil.

I currently have 3 extra" of drop along with a 5" drop spring. I need to be around 7"

With my tire combo it is perfectly centered in the wheel well however it will still touch both sides of the tub under load.

im going to cut just over 1/2 coil off today on the front to get it where I want it I hope and then ill raise the rear to get clearence

I have a set of Nates trailing arms that are only 2" drop.
Maybe he's making only 3" drop arms now. (And using a spacer as an option).
3" is too much for scrub line issues with 15" wheels. That why I order just the 2" drop.

[highperf4x4]

That's what I was afraid of.

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I have a set of Nates trailing arms that are only 2" drop.
Maybe he's making only 3" drop arms now. (And using a spacer as an option).
3" is too much for scrub line issues with 15" wheels. That why I order just the 2" drop.

Ya I dont know. Maybe he sold me the wrong ones and has a fix, or maybe hes just making one size and spacing for the extra, which either way works. I PMd him a few days ago and still have not heard back.

I need to get the rear up at least an inch though. And I need ot get the front down I think about an inch as well.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I have a set of Nates trailing arms that are only 2" drop.
Maybe he's making only 3" drop arms now. (And using a spacer as an option).
3" is too much for scrub line issues with 15" wheels. That why I order just the 2" drop.

I believe this is correct.

I installed mine on my chassis & realized they were the 3" units & not the 2" I thought I was getting. I checked the scrub-line concern & it was flush w/the lip of a 15" wheel as measured from the lowest portion of the truck arm. The 3" shock brackets were definitely below scrub for a 15" wheel. After conversing w/Nate, he might just be offering the one arm, spacing the spring for the drop difference, & using the shorter 2" shock bracket.

Check w/him to be 100% accurate though .

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I believe this is correct.

I installed mine on my chassis & realized they were the 3" units & not the 2" I thought I was getting. I checked the scrub-line concern & it was flush w/the lip of a 15" wheel as measured from the lowest portion of the truck arm. The 3" shock brackets were definitely below scrub for a 15" wheel. After conversing w/Nate, he might just be offering the one arm, spacing the spring for the drop difference, & using the shorter 2" shock bracket.

Check w/him to be 100% accurate though .

crap, i wonder what rear shock brackets I have then... Hmmm

Ill have to call him shortly. My rear is just a tad to low.

I left the front springs for now awaiting raising the rear and it may not make the front seem to tall.

Switched all my steering around and the alignment shop is ready to align it tomorrow morning at 9am

[big_al_71]

I am really loving the rear that low, if you lower the front to match the rear watch out!!!!

I have a six inch lowering spring from ECE and a 295/40/20 on a 20x10 Coy wheel just like you and mine definetly is not even close to what yours looks like...


Great progress.....

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I believe this is correct.

I installed mine on my chassis & realized they were the 3" units & not the 2" I thought I was getting. I checked the scrub-line concern & it was flush w/the lip of a 15" wheel as measured from the lowest portion of the truck arm. The 3" shock brackets were definitely below scrub for a 15" wheel. After conversing w/Nate, he might just be offering the one arm, spacing the spring for the drop difference, & using the shorter 2" shock bracket.

Check w/him to be 100% accurate though .

Now you've got me second guessing.
I need to look at mine again.
I know that I did order just the 2" drop.

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by big_al_71

I am really loving the rear that low, if you lower the front to match the rear watch out!!!!

I have a six inch lowering spring from ECE and a 295/40/20 on a 20x10 Coy wheel just like you and mine definetly is not even close to what yours looks like...


Great progress.....

the front is 4.5" dropped. I think it will look fine once I raise the back up another inch. I think it will balance out really nice.

[vegaschevy]

Went and put 20 miles on the truck today before heading to work at midnight with it. Front seemed very nice the rear is harsh and bottoming out on something.... Cannot wait to get it smoothed out!!

So far everything seemed to be dialed

[Smallz72project]

Truck is looking amazing! Glad you were able to get the steering figured out. I did notice in your post regarding the spindle nut that you were concerned about hte castle nut being too far down from the cotter pin hole. I havent taken mine apart in some time, but I wanted to ask...do you have the spindle nut tightened right against the bearing? If my memory serves me, you should have a slotted washer that goes between the bearing and the nut. I have seen too many times bearing just completely descintegrate from this if not caught early on.

[lolife99]

I have a correction to make,...
Mine are 3" drop.
(which really surprises me).
I measured from the top of the plate, where the rear axle housing rests,... to the top of the 2" tube itself.

I know I asked for 2" drop.
Hmmm,...

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by Smallz72project

Truck is looking amazing! Glad you were able to get the steering figured out. I did notice in your post regarding the spindle nut that you were concerned about hte castle nut being too far down from the cotter pin hole. I havent taken mine apart in some time, but I wanted to ask...do you have the spindle nut tightened right against the bearing? If my memory serves me, you should have a slotted washer that goes between the bearing and the nut. I have seen too many times bearing just completely descintegrate from this if not caught early on.

yes, washer is in there as well. Ill check it in a couple thousand miles and see if it will be a problem.

[PBFAB.COM]

Let's clear up all the confusion on the arms... The trailing arms themselves ALL have 3" of drop built into them. The differences between the 2" drop and 3" drop arms are:

-The shock brackets are different
-The 2" drop arms come with a cup that goes between the top of the spring and the frame.

Devin-

Your cups will be in the mail tomorrow.

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Let's clear up all the confusion on the arms... The trailing arms themselves ALL have 3" of drop built into them. The differences between the 2" drop and 3" drop arms are:

-The shock brackets are different
-The 2" drop arms come with a cup that goes between the top of the spring and the frame.

Devin-

Your cups will be in the mail tomorrow.

cool, have pics of both styles of shock brackets?

[vegaschevy]

Trucks all aligned but on the way to work last night it started making a funky noise. Like the carrier bearing has the dust cover spinning loosely and sometimes make a crazy viberation high pitch squealing sound

[fencepost]

Just drive faster it'll stop.

[72BlckButy]

So what's next?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by vegaschevy

Trucks all aligned but on the way to work last night it started making a funky noise. Like the carrier bearing has the dust cover spinning loosely and sometimes make a crazy viberation high pitch squealing sound

Is this the original drive shaft,... or did you build a new one.
Could it be too long, now that your truck is lowered?

[68GMCCustom]

have had a similar sound from my trucks r/e before....spun bearing race?

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Is this the original drive shaft,... or did you build a new one.
Could it be too long, now that your truck is lowered?

Yeah, you're probably bottoming out the slip shaft behind the carrier bearing.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by highperf4x4

Yeah, you're probably bottoming out the slip shaft behind the carrier bearing.

If this is the original 2-piece drive shaft there is no slip yoke behind the carrier bearing.
Just one at the transmission, and a u-joint in the middle.

I lowered a lwb truck 20 years ago,... and I had to shorten the rear shaft, of the 2-piece drive shaft.
A slip yoke style setup like the later model trucks would be an improvement

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

So what's next?

67 front fenders, grill, core support and cowl hood. Get the front end looking well GOOD!!! LOL I will do all new cab mount bushings, core support stuff and everything pretty much new down to the little details on the front sheet metal.

Originally Posted by lolife99

If this is the original 2-piece drive shaft there is no slip yoke behind the carrier bearing.
Just one at the transmission, and a u-joint in the middle.

I lowered a lwb truck 20 years ago,... and I had to shorten the rear shaft, of the 2-piece drive shaft.
A slip yoke style setup like the later model trucks would be an improvement

It is possible, It was COMPLETELY fine until the front was lowered as well.
I still had play at the transmission or at least enough. I was thinking about pulling the bolts out of the carrier bearing and eggin out the holes a hair as if it is bottoming out it is VERY VERY minute. could be fixed with moving the carrier bearing forward a thousands of an inch.

It does not do it at all when cold. only when hot.

With the truck lowered not so easy, in fact impossible to climb underneath to figure it out... HAHAHAHA

[lolife99]

Hmmm,... I didn't know it was fine before the front was done.

Got any pics of the driveshaft installed?

[vegastwinturbo]

Hey vegaschevy trucks lookin good i think you should bring it by on your day off so we can throw it up in the air and look at it

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by lolife99

If this is the original 2-piece drive shaft there is no slip yoke behind the carrier bearing.
Just one at the transmission, and a u-joint in the middle.

I lowered a lwb truck 20 years ago,... and I had to shorten the rear shaft, of the 2-piece drive shaft.
A slip yoke style setup like the later model trucks would be an improvement

Thanks for the info.