Matt's 56 3600 4X4 Build

[Purcell69]

Originally Posted by mvitale27

Thanks! I am a little worried about the NP208 hanging off the back of the trans. The TC I have does have this weird bracket that runs from the TC to the bellhousing for some extra support though.

You should be ok. Most transfer cases just bolt to the rear of the trans without any support. The bracket that has been added to yours at the factory is more than enough. Even in the days of steel cased transfer cases, the NP 205 is the only one I can think of that used an extra bracket to the frame, though it was less for support and more for torque limiting.

Keep up the good work!

-Joe

[OldChevysRule]

Matt............I have some other brackets that support the transfer case from the bottom. They attach to the lower transmission bolt holes and use a little longer bolt. I pulled them from a 91 Suburban 4 wheel drive that I scrapped several years ago. I am planning to convert my truck to 4X4, so I will probably use the ones I have, but I thought I would pass the info along so you will know where to look when you go to your local salvage yard. You might also find them on the K-5 Blazers as well. I have never seen them on any pickups, but they may have just been removed. Jason

[Purcell69]

Originally Posted by OldChevysRule

Matt............I have some other brackets that support the transfer case from the bottom. They attach to the lower transmission bolt holes and use a little longer bolt. I pulled them from a 91 Suburban 4 wheel drive that I scrapped several years ago. I am planning to convert my truck to 4X4, so I will probably use the ones I have, but I thought I would pass the info along so you will know where to look when you go to your local salvage yard. You might also find them on the K-5 Blazers as well. I have never seen them on any pickups, but they may have just been removed. Jason

Cool! I learned something new. I've worked with NP 203s, NP 205s, NP 231s and whatever Dodge put behind the Cummins. None had any extra support. I was not aware the 208 used anything other than it's own case.

-Joe

[_Ogre]

one thing i noticed is that you mounted the motor and trans without the cab on the truck
just for grins throw the cab on the frame just to check for firewall and trans clearance
these trucks with stock v8 had the distributor, valve covers and trans very close to sheet metal
might save you a lot of time repositioning the motor/trans now vs modifying the firewall, core support or floor pans later

[mvitale27]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

one thing i noticed is that you mounted the motor and trans without the cab on the truck
just for grins throw the cab on the frame just to check for firewall and trans clearance
these trucks with stock v8 had the distributor, valve covers and trans very close to sheet metal
might save you a lot of time repositioning the motor/trans now vs modifying the firewall, core support or floor pans later

When I had the originally mocked up and welding in my engine xmember, I had the engine mounted and the trans hanging but supported with a short 2X4 to give me the correct angle. The cab was still on during this process. I did the final welding of both the engine and trans xmembers after the cab was off but I had the locations for both marked. I think I will be OK but thanks for the advice.

Once the chassis is rolling again in about a week I am putting the cab, doors, and front sheet metal on with new mounts, hinges and hardware to align all my gaps before I brace the cab and remove it again for rust repairs. I will mount the motor/trans/t-case again at this point to double check location and clearances.

[marc55]

Looking good.

My axels are going to be the last thing I do. I want to do disk rear but I can't find a cheep conversion for 6 lug rotors. I can find $300 kits for car but truck conversions are $500. For that price I can just buy a mid 90s rear with disks already installed.

[mvitale27]

Originally Posted by marc55

Looking good.

My axels are going to be the last thing I do. I want to do disk rear but I can't find a cheep conversion for 6 lug rotors. I can find $300 kits for car but truck conversions are $500. For that price I can just buy a mid 90s rear with disks already installed.

Yea, the prices for a 78 14 Bolt FF disc conversion are outrageous. Plus I have the 8 lug version so they get really prices. I have seen some well over $1k. I just picked up all the parts to rebuild the drums (drums themselves are getting cut at the tech school I just graduated from at no charge) and it was $60 from my parts guy. for shoes, wheel seals, and a spring/hardware kit.

[mvitale27]

Not too big of an update. Kept working on the front and rear ends. Also cleaned out my side of the garage to give me so more room to work.

[dwcsr]

Another week and you should be able to drive it......maybe?

[mvitale27]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

Another week and you should be able to drive it......maybe?

I wish! I still have all the metal work on the cab to do, plumbing, wiring, steering and some interior stuff to do before I can drive it for the first time.

Took almost a month off from the truck due to an ankle injury. Sprained my surgically repaired left ankle playing basketball. Luckily none of the 10 screws and 8" titanium plate was damaged and I am back on my feet now.

[OldChevysRule]

The progress is looking good. Did you have to shorten the axles to get the correct track width? Or have you not gotten that far into it yet to check the tire clearance on the fenders? Just curious as I am wanting to do a 4x4 conversion on my project as well. Right now, I am still tearing it down to the frame and searching for parts (once I figure out what will work without too much modification.) Thanks....Jason

[mvitale27]

Originally Posted by OldChevysRule

The progress is looking good. Did you have to shorten the axles to get the correct track width? Or have you not gotten that far into it yet to check the tire clearance on the fenders? Just curious as I am wanting to do a 4x4 conversion on my project as well. Right now, I am still tearing it down to the frame and searching for parts (once I figure out what will work without too much modification.) Thanks....Jason

I am using 78 K20 3/4 Ton 8 lug axles. GM 10 bolt front and GM 14 bolt rear. I used my original 2" springs (they were painted and repacked) and the spring perches on the axles lined right up.

Track width is near perfect. I had the original rims mounted on the axles before I tore them down to rebuild. I had the fenders and bed on at that point and the wheels fit nicely in the fenders. I will not be using the original rims but I should be able to find a set that will fit just as good. Also, converting to 4X4 gives you so much tire to wheel well clearance that track width isnt much of an issue.

[mvitale27]

This is killing me... I want to mock up my front sheet metal so I can brace the cab and put it back on the dolly for metal work but the 4 door hinge pins I ordered from Ecklers are back-ordered and the original pins are in terrible shape.

In the meantime I have done some more engine and trans work. Should be ready to drop the engine/trans/t-case on the frame soon... oh yeah, the cab is still in the way

[bajabob]

Very Cool build you have going, nice to see some 4x4 action as well if you don't get side tracked, you might be rolling by summer ???

[mvitale27]

Originally Posted by bajabob

Very Cool build you have going, nice to see some 4x4 action as well if you don't get side tracked, you might be rolling by summer ???

I hope to be driving it sometime this winter but life keeps getting in the way! At this point, I have a stockpile of parts and just need some time to work. It sucks when all you can do all day is THINK about working on the truck instead of WORKING ON THE TRUCK!!!

[mvitale27]

Okay so I cancelled my backordered hinge pins with Ecklers and ordered some from LMC that were in stock... along with some lower hinge pocket patch panels. I'm trying to finish the bottom end of my motor and do some final trans wiring and painting then start fitting panels for metal work.

[bajabob]

congrats on the new gig, now get to work !!!! that truck aint gonna build it's self !!!! lol !!! jk

[mvitale27]

Got a bunch more parts from the FedEx man... I did get the broken timing cover bolt out of my block and replaced it with studs. I finished up the oil pump/pan and started on the last of the trans work (a few springs in the VB I never replaced with the shift kit) then painting it and the t-case and getting it all on the chassis. Not sure what I'll do after that, finish the front axle, start the rear, install gas tank, metal work on the cab??? Too many things to do!

[57chevyman]

You have any new pics of fuel tank install?

[mvitale27]

Originally Posted by 57chevyman

You have any new pics of fuel tank install?

Sorry, haven't installed it yet. Plan on getting back working on the truck this week.

[Trucknut57]

Have you figured out the height difference for the front / rear yet?

I was thinking instead of raising the rear 4", what about lowering the front 3"?

They have 3" lowering front springs, they are de-arched a bit but have the same number of original leaf's. This way the front isn't spongy and wobbly.

[OldChevysRule]

Matt,

Any progress on the truck? Also, do you have any relatives in Mississippi? I have a friend whose last name is Vitale. His immediate family is in Biloxi/Ocean Springs area.

[mvitale27]

Hey all, been awhile since I've posted. Didn't get much done for a long time but I've been back at it again. I'm having trouble uploading pics to the thread but I'll try again tomorrow.

Truck is back on 4 wheels with the front and rear suspension completely redone except shocks. Also, go the motor (without heads) and trans in the truck too.

[mvitale27]

Here's one pic from today.

[mvitale27]

... and another