Another way to skin the cat; the High Torque 292 LS swap

[Zane M]

Amazing!
Thanks for sharing.

[dec010974]

Just an idea. Combine the carb spacer with the throttle body adapter and you can this set up as dayj1. It may be a little taller but I'm sure you get idea. I don't own a water jet either, but there is more than 1 way to skin a cat. Since both pieces are aluminum your nearest tig welder can do the job. I estimate dayj1 piece can be duplicated for less that a $100.00. Or dayj1 can Sell them for less. "I'm just say in".
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[dayj1]

I sent a message to the guy that cut mine to see if he has any interest in making more. I'll post an update here when I find out something. I can't sell on this board as I don't have a premium membership. So, I don't want to make this a for sale thread and get it closed.

When I was researching my build, I thought of several possibilities in addition to the one that was just posted.

The most options are available for drive by cable. You could remove the injector pod from a GM TBI throttle body from a 4.3L, 5.7L, or 454. There are lots of inexpensive adapters out there that will allow one of those to bolt up to a square bore intake. They wouldn't require an adapter for a breather and they already have an IAC and a TPS sensor. Another option is to just run a carb. As long as you didn't hook up fuel to it, it will only meter air. It wouldn't require adapters of any kind and there are kits out there to add the TPS sensor.

For DBW, the Gen 4 guys have this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121522882229...S:1123&vxp=mtr For Gen 3 you'd have to run the adapter above and a 3 to 4 bolt adapter.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by dec010974

Just an idea. Combine the carb spacer with the throttle body adapter and you can this set up as dayj1. It may be a little taller but I'm sure you get idea. I don't own a water jet either, but there is more than 1 way to skin a cat. Since both pieces are aluminum your nearest tig welder can do the job. I estimate dayj1 piece can be duplicated for less that a $100.00. Or dayj1 can Sell them for less. "I'm just say in".
Posted via Mobile Device

I bought one of those 4-bolt to 3-bolt adaptors, I have no idea what AssHat came up with that, But you will have a major Vacuum leak using it the way it is on stock throttle bodies.

You either need to have it machined for a Stock O-ring gasket or get a aftermarket paper gasket.

[mattcrp1]

Nice work. Looks factory.

[Matt Cramer]

Nice work! My project has a lot of similar elements - 4.8, in tank pump, 2010 Camaro manifolds - but the fabrication work on mine isn't nearly as good, and right now it's still using the ugly truck manifold. Given me a bit to think about...

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by mattcrp1

Nice work. Looks factory.

Originally Posted by Matt Cramer

Nice work!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Wow, Jonathan, this looks awesome! I assume this is what you need the cruise lever for? I haven't forgotten about it, just been really busy but will get it done, I promise. Couple of questions though, first, is the pump really loud in the tank in the cab? I had a buddy who put a pump in the stock opening and it worked, but he hated the noise. Second, how did you get the speedometer to work with the original face? I assume it's pretty close to accurate, but the odometer is off?

Thanks, Eric! And, yes, this truck is why I need another cruise lever.

On the tank, the jury is still out. I bought a real Delco EP381 pump from Rock Auto instead of one of the cheapo "gray market" ones on eBay in hopes that a genuine Delco pump would be the quietest available pump. I also put rubber pads between the tank and the cab at all mounting bolts. It's about 1/4" thick rubber from the ends of the radiator hoses that I cut up to fit my engine. At first it was annoyingly loud. I have enough dynamat to cover the front and back of the tank but I only put it on the front for now. That got it tolerable where it really only bothers me at idle when there is no road noise. I'd say that cut the noise in half and it's really at the point now that I will probably be happy with it when I get the radio working. Long term, I plan on some interior updates. At that time, I'll dynamat the back of the tank and put some rubber/foam between the bottom of the tank and the cab. I'll also cover the tank with a carpet kit. I think those two things will get it where I want to be noise wise.

On the speedo I took a slightly "one-off" approach. A '94 S10/Sonoma cluster is a one year only deal. It's 85 MPH instead of the 120 MPH of the later S10 speedos but the mechanics are the same as far as how the mount, etc. The S10 sweep is less than the C10 (just like the later speedo) and when you add the extra sweep of the C10 back in, the 85 MPH S10 speedo works out to 100 MPH. I had to modify the odometer to 6 digits and it took a fair bit of work to fit it to the factory face. It works, but your kits certainly make it an easier proposition to go your way

Originally Posted by mattcrp1

Quick question for the spedo swap guys, will that s10 set up work with a '76 type dash/cluster?

The best I can say is "maybe". I think you would have to re-number the face to match the S10 sweep similar to Eric's kits for the 67-72. The easiest fix for a squarebody is to get an electric speedo out of a squarebody suburban.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by dayj1

On the speedo I took a slightly "one-off" approach. A '94 S10/Sonoma cluster is a one year only deal. It's 85 MPH instead of the 120 MPH of the later S10 speedos but the mechanics are the same as far as how the mount, etc. The S10 sweep is less than the C10 (just like the later speedo) and when you add the extra sweep of the C10 back in, the 85 MPH S10 speedo works out to 100 MPH. I had to modify the odometer to 6 digits and it took a fair bit of work to fit it to the factory face. It works, but your kits certainly make it an easier proposition to go your way

I have a couple of those 85mph speedos, but when I tried it, I couldn't get to be as accurate as the 120mph ones. But to be honest, I didn't spend a whole lot of time on it. Looks good though!

[rgonza]

Nice work!!!

[pocketpool]

Killer motor man !!

How tall is this setup compared to the truck intake and cover? Like to the top of mass air?

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by pocketpool

Killer motor man !!

How tall is this setup compared to the truck intake and cover? Like to the top of mass air?

Thanks! From the top of the valley cover to the top of my air cleaner is 13-1/4 inches. The 4.8 in my 2012 Silverado measures 12-1/2 from the top of the valley cover to the top of the engine cover. So, my setup is slightly taller than stock, but it would be possible to make a shorter air cleaner if you need that extra 3/4".

[Ozzy2013]

Awesome job !

[dec010974]

Wow, unbelievable! so basically you have a bone, stock tune on your pcm? So once I send my pcm out to be reflashed (remove vats, rear o2 sensors), get it back, and set it up, I should be good to go? I thought you may have used a local tuner to calibrate the fuel trims, engine idle, drive tune it, and a few other parameters, needed to make this puppy idle/run/shift smoothly. what injectors did you use with the holley fuel rails 534-219? thanks for the info. dayj1 for president.

clinebarger I will always use gaskets. metal to metal fastening will always need gaskets. I learned that many times, lesson a long time ago.

[First c10]

Looks great. Did you do anything to the motor or is it stock? I am putting a 4.8 in my sons truck. I did put a cam and valves springs.

[Beetle]

Originally Posted by First c10

Looks great. Did you do anything to the motor or is it stock? I am putting a 4.8 in my sons truck. I did put a cam and valves springs.

He answered this already

Originally Posted by dayj1

The 4.8 in my '72 is running a bone stock tune except that the rear o2s, evap, and vats are disabled. It runs and acts just like the 4.8 in my daily driver 2012 Silverado.

[First c10]

And That my friends is what happens when you post from your smart phone!!!

[GASoline71]

Very awesome build and swap! Great fab work!

I have been thinking about drinkin' some of the LS Kool-Aid as of late... threads like this make that decision a little easier.

Gary

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Ozzy2013

Awesome job !

Originally Posted by rgonza

Nice work!!!

Originally Posted by GASoline71

Very awesome build and swap! Great fab work!

Thanks for the compliments.

Originally Posted by dec010974

What injectors did you use with the holley fuel rails 534-219? thanks for the info.

I used the stock injectors for the 4.8 from the 2003 Tahoe. They are the small Multec injectors that flow something like 24 lbs/hr.

Using the stock injectors meant modifying the Holley fuel rail brackets (I think I put some pics of the brackets on the first page of this thread), but there were three reasons for the choice as I had LS1 injectors on hand.

1) The tune didn't have to be modified for different injectors.

2) The stock injectors were black. Seriously, the name of the game here is to make the engine look correct for the time period. The LS1 injectors are gray and I thought they'd stand out more than the black ones

3) The truck injectors are shorter than the car injectors which keeps the rail low enough that the DBW electrical connector cleared the rail. Had I used the LS1 injectors, it would have been impossible to plug in the throttle body.

Originally Posted by First c10

Looks great. Did you do anything to the motor or is it stock? I am putting a 4.8 in my sons truck. I did put a cam and valves springs.

It's completely stock. My tuner is the one who convinced me to go ahead and try running the MAF directly on the throttle body. He said it would work fine with the stock components (and it did). He mentioned in passing that it would likely be problematic if I went to an aggressive cam. I'm not sure why, but I only assumed that a lopey cam would fool with the intake air enough that the MAF readings would be inconsistent given its location.

[Low Elco]

Awesome job and great fab work!!

[BB72CHEVKT]

Top notch work!

[dayj1]

I've put just over 600 miles on the 4.8 swap so far. Or at least I think I have since my odometer quit working at about 400 miles . Other than that, there have been zero problems and I'm getting about 17 MPG with my 3.08 gears (or at least I was before the odometer stopped)

Today I had a chance to fix a couple of minor annoyances. First, the fresh air side of the PCV hose (in the passenger's valve cover) was just unsightly to me. There were enough unknowns when I built this that I didn't know exactly how I wanted to handle the PCV system. I had initially planned on running an air cleaner with a snorkel, and the present PCV location would have been perfect with a very short hose. Second, is that the same PCV hole in the valve cover doubles as my oil fill. The problem is that there is a sheet metal baffle inside that makes pouring in 6 quarts of oil rather "fun".

So, without further delay, I started with this:



This is a good photo of the valve cover adapter while the cover was off:



It didn't take much to grind the baffle loose:



Then I drilled the end of the valve cover and installed an AN6 90* bulkhead. Note that no baffle is needed because this is the inlet side of the PCV system where air is entering the engine. So, there is no concern about oil being sucked out of this hole:



On the inside, you can see the sealing washer and also that I cross drilled the nut and fitting for a cotter pin so the nut would never back off inside the valve cover:



I used a 3/8 JIC swivel hose end in the PCV hose as it will thread onto the bulkhead:



And, finally, here it is all buttoned back up. The PCV hose now goes unnoticed and the oil filler actually works!

[ERASER5]

This is so cool.

[Lokin4AReason]

I like this concept =0)

[solidaxel]

That is the BEST looking "292" I have seen
Can I get a close up of the coil location brackets installed?

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

That is the BEST looking "292" I have seen
Can I get a close up of the coil location brackets installed?

Thanks! It's tough to get a good picture of the coils with them behind the heads. One thing that I noticed is that the photos make it look more crowded than it really is. There's plenty of clearance around the coil packs to the firewall.

The first pic with the camera right next to the brake booster:



And the same group of coil packs from a little closer:



And the passenger's side from about the top of the trans dipstick: