The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-27-2015, 08:50 PM   #26
EARNHARDT#3
Registered User
 
EARNHARDT#3's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: PA
Posts: 1,417
Re: Should I just go HEI

Quote:
Originally Posted by BCOWANWHEELS View Post
I like points personally, there trouble free and last a long time , bet your dist is worn badly,there known for it. remove cap and rotor and try to wiggle shaft. if any side to side movement its bad, get a reman point dist, it comes with all the guts, get new cap , rotor & plugs n wires and your done. time it to spec. also I,d check compression on all cyls to get condition of engine, front 2 cylinders are bad for wearing out faster than the rest. if there low best to install a sbc and be done with it. lastly make sure your intake manifold gasket isn't leaking (there known to ) , use starting fluid sprayed where gasket is. if it revs up gasket is bad.


Good points (pun intended). On the parts board I have a nice distributor and like new wires for sale too ;-)
__________________
1967 C10, LWB, 250, Powerglide, PS, PB, 3/4 STATIC DROP
EARNHARDT#3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2015, 07:49 PM   #27
dave`12
Registered User
 
dave`12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Lake Placid florida
Posts: 599
Re: Should I just go HEI

Thank you both. I thought about using a t off the pvc, but it is such a big hose that I would need to reduce the size somehow. Not by the truck, but I guess that's the manifold vacuum point that was referenced.

I've checked the manifold gasket with carb cleaner, and did not note a difference. Will check the shaft. The wires, cap, rotor, points, and condenser are new. Springs look ok, but who knows.

Compression test, all cylinders just over 120, but #5 is 90. Same results when tested wet. Was asking in another thread if I can ignore the one bad one and still get it to run ok. Never really got an answer. A cylinder rebuild is beyond what I want to spend.

I've a question about setting the points, found a pic on the internet that looks like the adjustment is from the lower portion of the points (in your pic above). But I noticed that the mounting screw hole for the points is long, not circular, meaning the points can move towards or away from the shaft (upper side of points from your picture). Hope that makes sense. Anyway, now I'm confused. If I adjust the long hole, it will only move where the points contact the shaft lobe. So are there 2 adjustments?

Going to tackle it weds, so I have some time to figure it out. Maybe U-tube is my best option.
__________________
1967 C-10 4-speed, 350v8
dave`12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com