My LQ4/T56 build thread

[ChuckLee]

Got a safety question: i think I know the answer based on looking at the suspension setup....but I would rather ask a dumb safety question than assume something and break my face or arm.

Question: WHILE VEHICLE IS UP IN AIR ON MY LIFT, DO I NEED TO USE A SPRING COMPRESSOR BEFORE REMOVING TRAILING ARMS? IS THERE ANY DANGER ASSOCIATED WITH SIMPLY UNBOLTING THE TRAILING ARMS FROM FRONT OR REAR OF ARMS?

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by ChuckLee

Got a safety question: i think I know the answer based on looking at the suspension setup....but I would rather ask a dumb safety question than assume something and break my face or arm.

Question: WHILE VEHICLE IS UP IN AIR ON MY LIFT, DO I NEED TO USE A SPRING COMPRESSOR BEFORE REMOVING TRAILING ARMS? IS THERE ANY DANGER ASSOCIATED WITH SIMPLY UNBOLTING THE TRAILING ARMS FROM FRONT OR REAR OF ARMS?

They aren't loaded up like the fronts but you still have to be careful. I put axle stands under the axle and use my floor jack to lower the trailing arm slowly. They are bolted to the trailing arm as well so they won't go flying.

[ChuckLee]

happy new year all.
I've been busy, hence the slow progress.
Another year to enjoy serving the Lord, my family, and working on projects like this.
Little update.

Started rebuild on the Saginaw steering box. My oh my, hindsight is 20/20! I only had a leak out the front seal, and bought the whole rebuild kit (part #sk402). I sure wish I would have just replaced ONLY the front seal area. The only real challenge was getting the nylon ring seals to go back in their grooves and them all back together without overstretching them or breaking them while pushing the unit back into the box housing. What a pain! I broke them, and ordered another kit and will have to try that again once it comes in the mail.
IMG_8660[1] by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

Greased all zerx fittings with some nice Mobil1 stuff I like then cleaned up the mess that makes and of course taped off all fittings prior to paint. Before I took body off for last time I fitted the drivetrain in once more and test-fit the Poly body mount bushings to ensure trans clearance was good. So glad I went with these poly bushings, and looking forward to put the other suspension bushings in later down the road. That should really firm things up and hopefully get rid of the swaying and jumping over bumps on the interstate.

Stitch welded the trailing arms till my tank was empty (bummer becasue I wasn't able to finish this job before painting chassis because I had only one day where weather was good enough for painting) I'll finish this later. Priority is paint as winter is setting in.
frame paint (6) by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

Frame was in great shape, just minor surface rust.
PO used some undercoating on front end.
frame3 by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

frame2 by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr


You know how it goes, spent days grinding, wire wheeling, and cleaning up the metal on the frame before paint. Prep prep prep
Rust came off no problem. Here's the VIN on frame.
frame paint (2) by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

Hung some plastic to prevent dust and overspray going everywhere. Home Depot sells 12'x400' plastic (i think it's .32 mil) for only $24.95) Also gave everything two rub downs with some acetone to remove any oils etc. I know I could have take this to the next level by breaking down the front end more and rear end but I didn't want to do that for this build.
frame paint (5) by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

frame paint (4) by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

I have used POR15 product in the past and was honestly very dissatisfied with it. This time I went with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator to start off.
frame paint (7) by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

frame paint (10) by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

frame paint (14) by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

frame paint (13) by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

All in all, I'm very happy with how it laid down with a cheap gun and about 15% thinner. Already can tell this will be better than POR15 and it isn't so volatile and IMPOSSIBLE to remove off skin.

Next, I'll be applying Eastwood's Chassis Black 2k ceramic 2 part topcoat. Will have a little gloss to it, and should look pretty

I ended up ditching my trans brace and going with a modified stock layout and was able to do so without drilling any new holes into frame, score! I'll have plenty of room to route exhaust, that will be a learning curve for me, no pun intended.

[ChuckLee]

Chassis Black in gloss finished. 2 medium coats was plenty good enough.
IMG_8760[1] by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

IMG_8756[1] by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

IMG_8762[1] by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

I'm not a fan of shiny frames......but I think it will be good for me as dust will come off easier and it will clean up better in the future. I live off a dirt road so that's an issue for me.
If anyone thinks I had that kerosene heater going with paint fumes or acetone or thinner bottles open, think again
that would be quite a fireball there!

[ChuckLee]

I know it has been quiet on here recently, but only because I have been deliberating big changes for the motor. So, instead of going stock LQ4 with a cam, I'm doing more. I will be updating with pictures and info once parts are mostly all in. I should have known I would do this, lol.

In meantime, I tore the motor down:
IMG_7031 by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

I sold the harness, tac module, DBW pedal, and PCM (green/blue) for $300
and bought something cleaner (parts will be shown later date)


1)beautiful bores, crosshatch all looks like new. Just cleaned it all up.
IMG_8798 by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

Untitled by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

2)the usual cam bearing wear that shouldn't be any trouble (at least from all the tons of research I've come across)
Untitled by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

Untitled by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr


3)cam looked good too
Untitled by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr


3) and paint (Rustoleum engine enamel gloss black with a couple layers of Rustoleum engine clear
IMG_8894 by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

[ChuckLee]

Thanks for all the input.
I'm a little nervous about the vacuum issue I may very well run into as well. Having a manual will be helpful here I think. If I do run into this issue I will probably just try a vacuum canister and see what that does. If that doesn't work, I suppose a booster, although I'm not a fan of boosters.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by ChuckLee

Thanks for all the input.
I'm a little nervous about the vacuum issue I may very well run into as well. Having a manual will be helpful here I think. If I do run into this issue I will probably just try a vacuum canister and see what that does. If that doesn't work, I suppose a booster, although I'm not a fan of boosters.

A wilwood manual master and matching brakes will work better than a power brakes setup without vacuum problems. Go look at road course cars and see how many power brake setups you find. I love mine.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by NC_John

A wilwood manual master and matching brakes will work better than a power brakes setup without vacuum problems. Go look at road course cars and see how many power brake setups you find. I love mine.

What makes the Welwood master better than the others on the market?
Have you looked at a Hydroboost set up?

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

What makes the Welwood master better than the others on the market?
Have you looked at a Hydroboost set up?

They are used in about every form of Motorsport and engineered for performance, feedback and a responsive feel. OEM systems are not.

And IMO way too much ugly plumbing on a hydroboost. I deal with enough of those on the diesels and work.

[ChuckLee]

That's another option for me, Just HATE bending and flaring!

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by ChuckLee

That's another option for me, Just HATE bending and flaring!

Me too. I ended up going with Ni-copp lines and used a snap-on flare tool but it was still miserable. I'd love to have somebody come over and redo my lines nicer.

[ChuckLee]

I had a couple cars that had all Wilwood brakes honestly I was really unimpressed however They have changed a lot of their Products since then so maybe they are much better now. Personally, the best brake set up I ever had was Baer setup in a 240SX with an LS3 swap

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by ChuckLee

I had a couple cars that had all Wilwood brakes honestly I was really unimpressed however They have changed a lot of their Products since then so maybe they are much better now. Personally, the best brake set up I ever had was Baer setup in a 240SX with an LS3 swap

I called wilwood directly, told them what I was trying to do and went with exactly what they told me to get. A completely matched system. I am extremely pleased with how it works, and this is just with the inexpensive d52 calipers. I can't wait to upgrade and really get into the good stuff.

[ChuckLee]

shoot us the part numbers you ordered John, would like to research them. I'm not opposed to manual conversion, and definitely not opposed to going hydroboost either. My thought was to just run it as is, and if my vacuum issue really affects my braking, then I would deal with it then.

[ChuckLee]

Started running fuel line and mocking up filters and pump.

Untitled by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr

REALLY need to locate some connecting rods.......that's the only thing holding me back at this point from engine assembly and giving the drivetrain a final destination.

[KenAdams]

Subscribed . See you at the track!

[ChuckLee]

Good meeting you the other day Ken. Your suspension setup is so nice looking! Let me know when you go i would like to watch.

[ChuckLee]

So out of curiosity I threw the truck on the lift to determine what my rear end gear ratio currently is. Are you ready for it.....

1.60:1

No this is not a typo....it's somewhere around

1.60:1

Lol, this can't be right! Well, looks like I need to get some gears! Any recommendations on gear ratio, locker/posi type and brand for my setup?
(F body T56 with 275/40/20 tires for cruising around town and having general fun)
I wonder what RPM's I'll be doing at 70mph with 4.11's in 6th gear?)

[sangell]

ChuckLee,
Something is wrong there, 1.60 is not what is in there. I'm not saying that's not what you came up with but your method is flawed.

There are a number of RPM calculators in the web that will allow you to determine the rpm at any speed you want. You will need to know your tire height in inches and your 6th gear ratio which in an F Body t-56 should be a .50. Things to watch for are driveshaft rpm as they get out of hand quick with these double OD transmissions. If your tire is 27-28" a 3.73 or 4.10, if it 28-29" then 4.10-4.56 works well. Like I said watch that driveshaft rpm and it's speed is simply the given rpm of the motor divided by .50 in your case so you can just double the engine rpm. You will end up around 3700-4200 depending on your new gear ratio and not just any shaft will handle that speed.

[ChuckLee]

I agree with you, I must have done something wrong because never have I heard of such gearing, lol. I did what I always do, jack rear off ground, use chalk to mark top of tire and two chalk marks at rear end (one on pumpkin which is stationary, one on rotating yoke). The yoke turned approximately 1.6 revolutions to the wheel's 1 full rotation. I have two ideas:
1) I have no transmission or DS installed. That's first time I've checked this way w/o Trans installed. Isn't that irrelevant though? I'm not trying to figure out what gearing is in trans, simply a "neutral" situation/scenario to see what the gearing is in the rear.
2) I have an open diff I think and I wonder if maybe that is playing a roll? I don't know.

I seem to recall checking this while I had the truck all together with a T5 and 355 in it and I believe I checked it in neutral and came up with something like 2.60 or 2.75 or something to 1. As you can tell by now by reading my thread, I'm learning, and loving learning. I'm not afraid to make myself look like a total newbie for the sake of your pleasure and others' help. Lol

[ChuckLee]

Ordered some Forged I beam connecting rods today, then saw a deal on new, stock Gen IV rods. I have to decide now if I want to use the stock GM rods which are good for much more power than I'll throw at it, or if I should spring and spend more money on going with aftermarket pistons to go with the 6.125" Forged rods. I'm using ARP 2000 rod bolts either way, and the issue isn't HP here because both will handle my HP no problem. The issue is RPM's for sure, and my cam and heads are very happy in the 7000-7200rpm range.

[sangell]

ChuckLee,
You are doing a great job and your truck is bad ass, we are all learning as we go and even if you have done a bunch of these trucks you should learn something new with each one.

As for the rods go with the forged ones, RPMs are cool

As for gearing here is what I came up with.

275/40/20 tire= 28.66" tall.
F-Body T56 if stock has a .50 first gear.
4.11 gear at 75 MPH= 1807 engine RPM and 3614 DS RPM.
4.56 gear at 75 RPM= 2005 engine RPM and 4010 DS RPM
4.88 gear at 75 RPM= 2145 engine RPM and 4290 DS RPM

With that I would prefer the 4.88s with you having a motor built to make power in the upper RPMs. The issue is drive shaft speed of 4290 is spinning it pretty fast, if a long bed you will need a two piece for sure and even at that it will need to be built right, if a short bed you can try a one piece as I am. My set up puts my drive shaft at 3830 RPM at 75 MPH and I went with a 4"x.085 wall steel driveshaft.

[sangell]

From Mark Williams site

[ChuckLee]

Good info there. thank you. What did that set you back for that DS? I'm longbed, so I want to stay two-piece for multiple reasons. Honestly, I hadn't thought much about DS yet beyond length/fitment. Originally I planned to utilize the stock 2-piece DS and just have it fitted to length. I wonder if anyone has done that, or what power it is good for?

[sangell]

It was $450 but it has the slip yoke in the shaft so that added some cost. Mine was built using 1350 series ujoints, I needed an adapter for the stock flange on the trans then I needed a 1350 series pinion yoke so I got a forged one. All in all it was about $650 but it is a very strong set up that handles the RPM. As for the two piece you will be fine as long as all of the angles are correct, as you can see in the cart I posted the shorter in tube length you go the critical speed goes up a lot.