Do I Need To Relocate Rear Shocks W/ 3" Drop Coils?

[Robznob11]

Originally Posted by hewittca

I think one of the reasons for relocating the shocks that hasn't been mentioned is the angle of the shock as you lower the truck. I'm somewhere between 3-4" lowered with springs and my shocks were already leaning over at about a 35 degree angle. The shock relocation brackets allow you to run a stock shock and correct the angle of the shock so it's more vertical. I thought mine rode fine without the brackets, but I did actually notice a fair improvement after adding them. You do have to remove the stock top bracket though which requires cutting two rivets on each bracket.

Finally someone hit the nail on the head! Its all about the angle! Relocat them to make them more vertical. The reason you need to get shorter ones is so they operate in the sweet spot and dont bottom out!

[ShortCST]

Originally Posted by NGN

I been looking for my papers and finally found who I got my kit from, turns out it was easier too look under my truck and read the brackets lol. Early Classic , the guy there was very helpful, I told him what I have, short bed ,L6 ,with new LMC springs all around and all new parts up front and back, told him I wanted to level my truck by lowering the rear . He set me up with a four inch lowering kit for the rear-end that also come with K Y shocks, he's is the one to inform me four or more inches need the relocation kit. My truck now sites 32 inches all around . Three and less just springs and shocks is what I'm sure he said. Just look em up, good people.
Nick
NGN

Thanks Nick. I'll look at their selection of shocks.

[ShortCST]

Originally Posted by hewittca

I think one of the reasons for relocating the shocks that hasn't been mentioned is the angle of the shock as you lower the truck. I'm somewhere between 3-4" lowered with springs and my shocks were already leaning over at about a 35 degree angle. The shock relocation brackets allow you to run a stock shock and correct the angle of the shock so it's more vertical. I thought mine rode fine without the brackets, but I did actually notice a fair improvement after adding them. You do have to remove the stock top bracket though which requires cutting two rivets on each bracket.

Thanks Corey. I'm going to try the shorter shocks alone first. If that gives me a really firm ride, then grinding rivets doesn't bother me. It's just drilling new holes or welding that bothers me.

[Robznob11]

Originally Posted by ShortCST

Thanks Corey. I'm going to try the shorter shocks alone first. If that gives me a really firm ride, then grinding rivets doesn't bother me. It's just drilling new holes or welding that bothers me.

Should not be any drilling or welding. An air hammer with chisel makes quick work of rivets

[old51sedan]

Interesting article. I'm also interested in lowering mine 3" in the rear. Please keep us posted as to how everything works out and if you are satisfied with what you did. Any pictures would also be nice.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Id you can shoot me a PM with the measurements from mount to mount at ride height, I can tell you what stroke you would need.
The ride height measurement is vital if you are looking to reuse your factory mounting points. If you compress a shock that is too long, you wont have any compression travel and the shock will constantly bottom out. This will eventually lead to shock failure.
The opposite is also true. If you use too short of a shock and stretch it out so it works on your existing mount you will limit your rebound travel, the shock will top out and could eventually fail.
We just need to find a happy medium and get you the correct stroke for your application.

[ShortCST]

Originally Posted by old51sedan

Interesting article. I'm also interested in lowering mine 3" in the rear. Please keep us posted as to how everything works out and if you are satisfied with what you did. Any pictures would also be nice.

I'll post an update for sure.

[ShortCST]

Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech

Id you can shoot me a PM with the measurements from mount to mount at ride height, I can tell you what stroke you would need.
The ride height measurement is vital if you are looking to reuse your factory mounting points. If you compress a shock that is too long, you wont have any compression travel and the shock will constantly bottom out. This will eventually lead to shock failure.
The opposite is also true. If you use too short of a shock and stretch it out so it works on your existing mount you will limit your rebound travel, the shock will top out and could eventually fail.
We just need to find a happy medium and get you the correct stroke for your application.

Thanks John. I'll update you when the springs are on the truck. Eibach is just down the road from me, so it ought to be within the next 48 hrs.

[Fraud]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Bell tech offers a nice shock... I put those on mine

+1 I just put the belltech shocks on mine (4 inch lowered belltech coils were installed by a previous owner but stock ride height shocks were kept) and the difference is amazing - but I have to remember that I was replacing worn shocks that weren't suited to the ride height with brand new performance shocks that were suit to purpose, so there was always going to be a positive improvement.