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Old 10-08-2003, 08:22 AM   #26
Iron-Butt
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Great Job. They always look better when all the work is done.
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Old 10-08-2003, 09:45 AM   #27
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Wow, that's a lot of progress. I think you should do this for a living. If you can do 2 trucks a day and charge a flat rate for labor, I can see 6 figure income in your future. Just stay away from our rust-belt trucks. It takes the "heat and beat" method just to turn a nut which really eats into the time required.

2 hours to save $20? ...and I thought I was cheap

Looks like you'll have a nice cruiser when done.

FYI, those little 2wd pickups don't look like 4x4's even at stock height. Everybody knows a real working 4x4 has a plow on it with cab clearance lights
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67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction)
67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler)
67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC)
68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC)
70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC)
71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor)
72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor)
72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor)
72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC)
81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler)
82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy)
93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car)
02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk)
2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter

Maybe I need to sell some of this crap

Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all
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Old 10-08-2003, 09:51 AM   #28
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CPNE.....

I have been an ASE Master mechanic for 12 years and an Airframe and Powerplant mechanic for 9 years. I earned my fair share of money turning wrenches.

I changed careers 2 years ago. Now I work 24 hrs on and get 48 hrs off. It works out to either 2 or 3 days a week. Best schedule in the world. I get lots of free time to work on the side.
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Old 10-08-2003, 10:01 AM   #29
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Awesome job buddy. The green stepper is going to look good when it's done.
It sounds to me like you need to find another tire shop. I buy enough from my local shop that they never charge me for anything extra. They mount, balance, rotate, and repair flats for free....
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Old 10-08-2003, 12:39 PM   #30
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IT'S DONE

Well, it's sitting back in the street again.

All done except for 2 items-
1) I still need to swap Mas cyl and prop valve
2) I need to run over to the dealer and get a sway bar clamp. One was bent. That's gonna cost 2.66.

Only problem I ran into was I forgot to buy 1/2 inch lugnuts. I scrounged through the garage and found 20 mismatched ones.

If the front springs don't settle any more, I'm going to have to put in a 3 inch drop spring to take it a total of 5 1/2 front 6 back.

Pictures tonight after the wifey gets home with the camera.

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Old 10-08-2003, 01:30 PM   #31
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Make sure you get good pics of the rear end seutp. Looking forward to seeing that. Did you install one that needed new saddles or find a good direct replacement?
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Last edited by lock; 10-08-2003 at 01:40 PM.
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Old 10-08-2003, 01:35 PM   #32
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Do you need that valve. ASAP?
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Old 10-08-2003, 02:12 PM   #33
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hey TX Firefighter

get yourself one of the old style manual tire changing machines. I have one bolted to the floor in my garage and it works fine. Cost was about $50. It is a made in the far east replica of what the local garages had back in the 50's. Might want to be careful with aluminum wheels but it sure works good on the steel wheels.
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Old 10-08-2003, 07:22 PM   #34
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THE FINISHED PRODUCT

Here it sits. If the front doesn't settle in a week or two, I'm going to lower it another inch.

Lock- tell me what pictures you want to see and I'll go take them.
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Old 10-08-2003, 07:28 PM   #35
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That ride hight looks pretty sweet. Id jsut like to see you rear end suspension setup that you put in. Mainly the panhard bar.
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Old 10-08-2003, 07:32 PM   #36
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It should drop another inch or two when it all settles down. You'll hear a little pop when the springs seat all the way. It'll scare the hell out of ya if your not expecting it.
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Old 10-08-2003, 08:06 PM   #37
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Look's pretty damn good...
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Old 10-08-2003, 08:11 PM   #38
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Looks great! Much better.
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Old 10-08-2003, 09:30 PM   #39
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TX Firefighter--if I read correctly, you're temporarily still using the stock drum master cylinder/prop valve? This might be a dumb question, but does it stop well enough to drive?
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Old 10-08-2003, 09:37 PM   #40
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You need a 454 in there to pull down the front. That 6 is way to light. LOL
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Old 10-08-2003, 10:04 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by theo70
TX Firefighter--if I read correctly, you're temporarily still using the stock drum master cylinder/prop valve? This might be a dumb question, but does it stop well enough to drive?
I didn't even bother to bleed the brakes, so I don't know. It's going to take me a couple of weeks to get the scratch together to buy a booster and master cylinder and prop valve.

Pic of left side of super track bar. Notice it mount to stock bracket
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Old 10-08-2003, 10:07 PM   #42
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Right side of super track bar. It mounts to a bracket between the axle saddle and trailing arm. The bolt is still loose because I haven't adjusted the rearend to center yet.
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Old 10-08-2003, 10:10 PM   #43
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Comparison between the stock upper shock mount and the ECE mount kit. Notice it moves the hole rearward which places the shock more straight up and down. The ride improves the more vertical the shock is.
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Old 10-08-2003, 10:14 PM   #44
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A close up of installed upper shock mount. Removing the rivets on the stock mounts was the hardest part of this job.
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Old 10-09-2003, 12:45 AM   #45
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Looking sweet ! How much clearance do you have between the axle tubes and the frame? How about clearance between the bed floor and top of the differential housing? I'd like to squeeze a 7" drop out of the back if i could . Looking at yours, does it look like you could get another inch out of it even if you had to c-notch the frame? And for the final question, how much did your pinion angle change ?

Chris
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Old 10-09-2003, 06:24 AM   #46
Tx Firefighter
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I think you could get another inch drop if you wanted to. If you c-notch the frame, I know you could.

I'll measure the clearance tomorrow exactly. I have to work 24hrs today. I didn't measure the pinion angle before or after the job. I've dropped them 6 inches before with no pinion angle issues, so I didn't even worry about it.

Kevin
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Old 10-09-2003, 09:13 AM   #47
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Nice pics Tx. Thanks!
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Old 10-09-2003, 10:42 AM   #48
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If you dont mind me asking how much was your total on parts for the job?
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Old 10-09-2003, 11:02 AM   #49
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Dam that did make a big differance ! Your truck looks sweet now !
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Old 10-09-2003, 11:15 AM   #50
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looks great; It should settle down more with the small block in it.
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