tons of info needs to be extracted from this thread

[76kcfdeng]

Jim, nice write ups on the work you have done. Looks a nice truck to start with. At least yours is on the road. Stay after it and enjoy!
Glen

[R&K's71]

Good looking truck great progress as well. Keep up the good work

[bollybib]

REMOVING THE BED (2 of 2)

+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

[bollybib]

DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL, EATON H052 (Part 1 of 6)

I wasn't getting minor drips from the rear end, it was more like a gusher. It needed a new seal. After some research, this didn't seem to be too difficult to do. I just needed bigger tools, some education, and decent access, that’s all.

A fairly simple procedure according to the 1969 Chevrolet Truck Chassis Service Manual, Series 10-60, Rear Suspension and Drive Line 4-32 (whew).

Drive Pinion Oil Seal (Fig. 66)
Replacement
NOTE: The pinion oil seal may be replaced with the carrier assembly installed in the vehicle.
1. Disconnect propellor shaft and remove pinion flange and deflector.
2. Remove bolts retaining the oil seal retainer to carrier, and withdraw retainer from pinion.
3. Pry old seal from bore, using care so as not to damage the machined surface of retainer.
4. Thoroughly clean all foreign matter from seal contact area in retainer.
5. Pack the cavity between the seal lips with a high-melting point bearing lubricant, position seal on installer Tool J-22231 so that seal shoulders against installer drive surface.
6. Press seal into retainer until it bottoms against shoulder.
7. Carefully position seal retainer over pinion to prevent damage to seal, and torque retaining bolts to specifications.
8. Reinstall pinion flange and propellor shaft.

The Story follows:

Eatin’ Piñon Nuts
(by Jim H., title suggested by special-K)

In Service Manual order:

*NOTE: The pinion oil seal may be replaced with the carrier assembly installed in the vehicle.

But not on the ground with the bed on ! Personally, I wouldn’t want to try doing this with the vehicle on the ground and the bed in place…uh uh.

*1. Disconnect propellor shaft and remove pinion flange and deflector

Disconnecting the propellor shaft presented no problem. Removal of the pinion flange (aka yoke) involves removing the pinion nut. I found a couple of threads that discuss the issue of removing this stubborn fastener.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=275286

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=197837
Thanks especially to JAKES 68GMC (#14, Deep Creep), phantom dually (#15, heat), and special-K (#16, for eatin’ piñon nuts ! )

I decided to be conservative and gave myself four days to heat and soak before attempting to loosen the nut. I bought a can of Deep Creep (DC) and used a MAPP gas torch to heat the nut. I concentrated the heat on the nut as much as possible after which I applied DC. I periodically soaked the nut in DC until the next heat. I did this four times over the following days.

[bollybib]

DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL, EATON H052 (Part 2 of 6)

The OD of the 1 5/8" socket I needed to remove the nut was too big to slide into the ID of the yoke and onto the nut.

Measured ID of yoke…...…2.18 in
Measured OD of socket…..2.20 in

I ground down the socket until its diameter was slightly smaller than the ID of the yoke and then it slipped right in. I guess I could have got a thin wall socket or bought an el cheapo one to destroy, but this Craftsman socket jumped into my hand and said "Use me" so I had no choice. I used a ¾" drive breaker bar to drive the socket and a 3’ long cheater pipe on the bar. I had to block the wheels firmly at the rear and engage the brake to prevent the vehicle from moving backwards while I applied force. Once the vehicle was firmly fixed in place, I applied force to the end of the pipe. After several tugs, the nut came loose with little complaint. I guesstimate I had to apply about 60-70 lbs of force to break the nut free (3 ft x 70 lb = 210 ftlb). This is close to the specified 220 ftlb tightening torque, so the DC and heat must have done their jobs well.

[bollybib]

DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL, EATON H052 (Part 3 of 6)

I then withdrew the yoke with a puller and moved on to step two.

It’s possible that I could have got the bloody thing off without going through all this heat and soak monkeymotion, but I like to try new ways of doing things and the end result was acheived cleanly and without swearing.

*2. Remove bolts retaining the oil seal retainer to carrier, and withdraw retainer from pinion.

This was straightforward. The bolts came loose OK using a ½" drive breaker bar and a ¾" socket. The retainer was a little stubborn coming off so I got it started with a bit of tapping and prying and then a puller to get it off. There is a convenient lip on the retainer on which to engage the puller claws.

[bollybib]

DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL, EATON H052 (Part 4 of 6)

*3. Pry old seal from bore, using care so as not to damage the machined surface of retainer.

I was a little unsure of myself on this at first because GM used the word "pry". I tried prying it out from the rear but that dint git it. I found if I drove a punch against the forward metal surface of the seal, it drove out easily and I didn’t touch the machined surfaces at all.

The rubber on the old seal was hard and brittle as expected. It had a GM part number on the metal ring so it could be the original 42-years-old-or-so seal.

*4. Thoroughly clean all foreign matter from seal contact area in retainer.

More cleaning wash wash wash. I like to use odorless mineral spirits in combination with a spray bottle, lots of different kinds of brushes, various sizes of pans, and lots of good quality paper towels. Cleaning car crud is always messy but I manage to keep my work areas ungreasy this way. I keep the sensitive-to-dirt parts protected as well as I can.

*5. Pack the cavity between the seal lips with a high-melting point bearing lubricant, position seal on installer Tool J-22231 so that seal shoulders against installer drive surface.

The new seal is a National 411330N. I didn’t pack the cavity so I hope GM will forgive me. There isn’t much room to get in to pack on this seal design. I’m not sure why GM wants you to do this, maybe as a method of priming the seal until the oil fully circulates. The grease eventually dissolves anyway. Instead, I thoroughly wetted the seal with gear oil (and the yoke surface, too in No. 8, below).

I made a tool to press in the seal from a piece of ¾" plywood instead of searching for years to find and paying a fortune for an original Tool J-22231. I cut it to a diameter of 3.8 inches.

[bollybib]

DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL, EATON H052 (Part 5 of 6)

*6. Press seal into retainer until it bottoms against shoulder.

I oriented the new seal with the thin lip forward as was the old seal. With my plywood tool diameter as such, I had full engagement of the seal ring and when pressed, it couldn’t go all the way to the bottom. I thought this was a good idea to prevent me from going too far and damaging the seal. When pressed in as far as the plywood tool allowed, I placed the old seal between the plywood tool and the new seal, being careful to align everything in a kopasetic manner. Then for the last push to bottom, I pressed slowly, making several visual checks along the way so as not to damage anything.

Buying the press I mentioned in Post #11 above was a good investment. I used to try doing this sort of job using a bench vise. With the press, I had much better control. The seal wasn't cheap so it got treated with respect.

*7. Carefully position seal retainer over pinion to prevent damage to seal, and torque retaining bolts to specifications.

Ya, be careful not to whack your new seal on the splined shaft, dude. The bolt torque chart calls the seal retainer a "pinion bearing cage" which confused me a little. Now I had a chance to use my new torque wrench, a CDI 30-250 ftlb, for the first time ! My old torque wrench was an el cheapo Craftsman and the plastic handle fell off recently after only 20 years of service. I torqued the five ½-13 bolts with new Grade 8 lockwashers to 95 ftlb.

The Service Manual doesn’t mention cleaning the yoke, the carrier surfaces or using a gasket, but these are necessary, too. The yoke cleaned up nicely and the sealing surface was nice and smooth, what luck! I made an O-shaped insert from flexible plastic to keep crud from getting into the carrier guts while I cleaned the gasket surface and bolt holes. I cleaned and chased all the bolt hole threads. They were full of junk and took several passes of the tap to get out all the debris.

I didn't find a precut gasket readily available so I used Permatex Ultra Black RTV on the advice of BCOWANWHEELS (#6 in this thread à http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...l+gasket+eaton). The pic below was taken at the finger-tight, ooze-out, beginning-to-cure stage of the RTV.

[bollybib]

DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL, EATON H052 (Part 6 of 6)

*8. Reinstall pinion flange and propellor shaft.

I squirted a lot of gear oil on the seal and wetted the yoke, and then inserted the yoke. I had to tap it in with a wood block and a hammer, the seal offering some resistance to insertion as it should. Then the fat pinion washer and pinion castle nut went on, ready to snug up. I torqued the nut to 220 ftlb per Specifications 7 section under 5200 Lb. Capacity Bolt Torques in the Service Manual. At this torque, the castle nut covered the cotter key hole, so I backed it off a tad. The nut ended up in the same position that it started according to the marks I scribed before I removed the nut. I installed a new cotter key and then spun a wheel by hand for a while to get the juices flowing inside the differential again.

.......................after.....................................................and before.......................

.................................................................................................... ...................

The next day I found a small drip on the pavement, residue I hoped. Maybe this is why GM says pack the seal with grease, to avoid this situation. I sprayed around the yoke area with my mineral spirit sprayer and wiped everything off good. I drove the truck up and down the street a few times. I also ran the drivetrain with the rear wheels removed and the axle on jack stands several times while I was working on the driveshaft (future project post). As of 6/2/11, no evidence of a leak so I hope my installation will be good for another 40 years or so.

This job was labor intensive. I worked on it from 5/13 - 5/23/11. I haven’t been keeping track of the hours I spend because I get so much pleasure out of working on this truck. However, if one had a shop perform the work I’ve been doing so far, I guesstimate the total costs I’ve itemized in this thread thus far would be double, at the very least.

As a do-it-yourselfer, it doesn’t always seem like I’m spending much as I go along, but it sure adds up. I’ve been including the cost for tools and consumables if they are first purchased for work on the truck.

Pinion seal, Deep Creep..………….....……$.35.87
Lock nuts…………………..……..........………....1.36
1 5/8" socket…………………………........…....21.74
Permatex Ultra Black RTV…………........….…7.60
Mineral spirits (1 gal., ran out again)......16.80

Total……………………….............………….…$.83.37

While the bed has been off I've had a chance to evaluate the condition of the driveshaft bearings and support, the frame, the shocks, and the exhaust. I've cleaned up the frame, installed new driveshaft bearings and supports, new shocks, and I'm working on the exhaust now. I'll post more about these later.

Thanks for reading and keep on truckin'.

Jim

[69-72]

Nice write up, my 69 Custom Camper 20 is almost identical except for the upper trim.

[bollybib]

Originally Posted by 69-72

Nice write up, my 69 Custom Camper 20 is almost identical except for the upper trim.

I like it. Yours looks real straight and unmolested. Where was yours built ? Mine came from St. Louis. She's a bit tired but I hope to freshen her up little by little.

Thanks for your comment and the pic. Brothers-in-arms we are.

[69-72]

Mine came from Oshawa, Ontario Canada 70,000 miles and only used to haul a camper. Never winter driven, which means more up here then it would down there Unfortunately the other difference I have is the leaf spring rear.

My speedo has been running too fast ever since I got it and I have 4:10 gears also, I will have to try the speedo gear combo you have in yours to see if that will make it right

[bollybib]

Originally Posted by 69-72

Mine came from Oshawa, Ontario Canada 70,000 miles and only used to haul a camper. Never winter driven, which means more up here then it would down there Unfortunately the other difference I have is the leaf spring rear.

My speedo has been running too fast ever since I got it and I have 4:10 gears also, I will have to try the speedo gear combo you have in yours to see if that will make it right

I wanted a coil spring rear, so I'm good on that, and Utah is pretty dry, so it's not very rusty.

While wading through the numbers today, I discovered that my transmission doesn't look to be original equipment, so take that into consideration (I'll be posting more on this soon).

[bollybib]

NUMBERS (Part 1 of 4)

This truck came to me without the benefit (or detriment) of prior owners’ input or documented history. As I’ve been working on it, I’ve recorded information that provides clues to its origin, production date, and degree of originality. I’m not a stickler for originality, but it’s interesting to discover the story that all the various numbers on the vehicle can tell me. As the codes are deciphered, a clearer picture of the history of the truck emerges.

I’ve had some practice at this. The "numbers match" thing is a big deal in the Vette world, and as the owner of a Sting Ray since 1987, I’ve dug through a lot of numbers on it. It would be nice if there were an acknowledged authoritative source on originality for classic Chevy trucks (like Nolan Adams on Vettes), but there doesn’t seem to be. I read somewhere that a lot of GM documents about these trucks were destroyed in a fire so that could explain it ( urban myth or fact ? source info on the fire anyone ? ).

Most of the modifications to the truck that I’ve found are attached to the original engine block (ignition, carb, manifolds, heads, and headers, see Post #16, above). I’ve only included items here that first looked to me like factory original parts with coded information.

Where you see "Ref." Below, I have given the source of my information.

Odometer reading: 21880.7
Hmm. How many times has it rolled over ? Anyone’s guess, I’ll never know for sure. I’d like to think only once. When I get into the engine I’ll have a better take on this.

First sold by Gene Harvey Chevrolet, American Fork, UT according to the dealer sticker on the tailgate.



Serial number on cab nameplate: CE249S816458

---C = 4x2
---E = V8 gas
---2 = 3/4 ton
---4 = Pickup with Cab and Bed
---9 = 1969
---S = St. Louis
---816458 = serial number

Serial number on frame: 9S816458



SPID

Service Parts Identification V.I.N. CE249S816458 W/BASE 127
OPTION NO. DESCRIPTION
MODEL = CE20934
4BX2BB.....BODY SIDE MOLDING-W
4C60HF.....AIR CONDITIONING-AL
4LS9KA.....350 CU. IN. V-8 ENG
4N40GD.....POWER STEERING
4U63NA.....RADIO-PUSH BUTTON
4Z62BC.....CUST-COMF&APPEAR EQ
4A11CA.....TINTED GLASS
4B85AB.....BODY SIDE MOLDING
4G50DA.....HEAVY DUTY REAR SPR
4M49TD.....TURBO HYDRA-MATIC
4P03CA.....CHROMED HUBCAPS
4Z53EQ.....AMMETER- OIL GAUGE
4555AD.....WHITE/SADDLE

[bollybib]

NUMBERS (Part 2 of 4)

Engine block


Casting number 3932386
Casting date I268 (I=September, 26=day of month, 8=1968, [assuming a straight line I, not the number 1])
Stamp pad V0928WK
V = source plant, Flint, MI
0928 = (09=September, 28=day of month)
WK = 1969 350 tur hydro - 255 4 C-10 to 35
Engine Ref: : http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php

Transmission nameplate

70M556 (556 = July 10, 1970 )
70-CM-6134 (dunno what 6134 is, serial or part number maybe)
Turbo Hydra-matic 400, 1970, Series 30 mobilehome chassis, w/307 motor ( hmm, this doesn’t look original at all )
Transmission Ref: http://books.google.com/books?id=JJI...page&q&f=false Page 13
http://novaresource.org/trans.htm

Rear end

Casting No. 3934635
ID No. JU 0928 G2
JU = 1969 Series 20-G20 4.10 ratio (no Positraction)
09 = September
28 = day of month
G2 = Gear and Axle Plant, 2nd shift
There is also a stamped letter B (two places) and 99 on the housing of whose meaning I know not (inspection stamps if I had to guess).
Rear End Ref: p. 85 Chevrolet Truck Parts Catalog for 1946-1972 Series 10-30, September 1972

[bollybib]

NUMBERS (Part 3 of 4)

Rear brake drums

GM3857752 KH54189 I248 (I=September, 24= day of month, 8=1968)
The KH number on the drum could be a Kelsey Hayes part number (the OEM).

Rear wheel hubs

GM3763180 I268 (I=September, 26= day of month, 8=1968)

Hub and drums: The last four characters are the date code. The first character is probably a straight line letter I and not the number 1. This would correspond to the other September codes.

Alternator

1100839 42A, 8J14 12VNEG
8 = 1968, J = September ( "I" gets skipped on alternators), 14= day of month
This looks like it’s the original alternator which is kind of amazing.


Frame markings

Top of both frame rails at rear 95
Lower frontmost crossmember 95
Rearmost crossmember B-CE20934
The 95 appears in three places and may have been used as an assembly line sequence number (my guess). CE20934 matches the SPID model number. I have no clue what the "B" might mean.

[bollybib]

MORE MISCELLANEOUS FIXITS (2 OF 2)

* Paint line trim

This was the only trim piece missing on the truck. I got this one from KrazyRay in the Parts Board. It’s a little banged up, but so is the rest of the trim so it fits in just fine.

Just by chance, it came off a truck very similar to mine, a 70 CST C20 White/saddle (2nd pic here - - - >) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...95&postcount=4

* Gas cap

The existing cap seal was cracked, and I could smell gas now and again while driving, particulary after turning a corner. I bought a replacement at NAPA and now I’m good to go.

* Cleaned the taillight lenses, lamps, and housings

The lamps and lenses were filthy so the lights were dim. Everything was nice and bright after cleaning. The DS bed corner is a little whacked so I straightened out the housings and trim on that side as best I could. I’ll replace the DS trim someday. The PS side looks pretty decent.

* Wiper refills

No one keeps these once-ordinary items in stock any more. I had to ask the O’Reilly salesperson to order them for me.

* Spot mirrors

To eliminate blind spots I installed spot mirrors on both exterior rear view mirrors. I had one on hand so I only had to buy one.

Little things like these sure can make a big difference in the operation and looks of the truck.

* $ $$$

Rear view mirror………….$.18.00
Glove box emblem…......….5.00
Glove box light…….......……8.00
Paint line trim……........….23.00
Gas cap……………..............5.97
Wiper refills, spot mirror....6.50
Total………………............$.66.47

[bollybib]

NUMBERS (Part 4 of 4)


Cowl markings


2T CE20934 6 S9KA 49TD T2
2T & T2 = upper and lower trim (? my guess)
CE20934 = SPID model number
6 = ???
S9KA = SPID engine option - 350
49TD = SPID transmission option - Turbo Hydra-matic

Seat Belts

Robbins Model #9300
40K68
40=40th week of 1968 (the 40th work week of 1968 is from Sep. 30 to Oct. 4)
K=Manufacturer code (i.e., Robbins)
68=1968
Seat Belt Ref: http://www.camaros.org/seatbelt.shtml

1968 Calendar Ref: http://www.timeanddate.com/calendar/...1968&country=1

The prevalence of late September 1968 codes leads me to believe that this truck was among the first of the 1969 model year trucks out the door, built in St. Louis probably in early October 1968. At that time I was 19 years old and in Navy basic electricity and electronic school in San Diego (beep school we called it), driving a 1958 Ford station wagon, my first car and surf wagon….but I digress.

The TH400 transmission looks to be a 1970 unit, so it was probably retrofitted into the truck later (or installed to replace a failed unit). When I got the truck, I could see that it had been set up for camper and trailer use, so a transmission retrofit (TH350 to TH400 perhaps ?) makes sense and an early failure of the original transmission isn’t out of the question,either. The detent (aka kickdown) wiring and switch for the TH400 look like factory pieces, could be from another truck, could be original to this truck, I dunno. If there was a kickdown cable for a TH350, it’s long gone. So I don’t really know what transmission it had originally. Perhaps some of you transmission gurus could shed some light on this one.

The serial number could provide a clue to the assembly date, but I don’t know of a reference source that shows the range of serial numbers produced in a given month at a specific assembly plant. If you know of one, I’d be interested in seeing it.

Many of these trucks have been scrapped or modified, and the number of intact examples decreases daily. In addition, an agreed-to authority on originality appears to be absent. I offer up this information hoping it will serve as a documented source to those interested in the historic aspect of these trucks.

OK class is over, you can wake up now.

Jim

[VA72C10]

Missed your thread up until now but just read up on it. Cool truck, neat that it's so original, and GREAT writeups!!!! I'm going to recommend them to be used as FAQ material. Keep on trucking.

[Papa-J]

Very informative, I love it, keep em coming.

[69-72]

I am big into the history and original stuff too. I finally managed to get an original dealers emblem for my truck at a swap meet a couple weeks back, it snapped right back into the holes that were still there.

If you havent already you might wanna check behind or under the seat, sometimes they stashed a build sheet between the springs.

[69cummins]

looking good!

[bollybib]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Missed your thread up until now but just read up on it. Cool truck, neat that it's so original, and GREAT writeups!!!! I'm going to recommend them to be used as FAQ material. Keep on trucking.

Thanks a heap compadre. Sometimes I think it's more work to write about it than do it. I try to give as much credit as I can to other board members who have steered me in the right direction.

Originally Posted by Papa-J

Very informative, I love it, keep em coming.

Thank you. I need to take a nap first, then I'll write some more.

Originally Posted by 69-72

I am big into the history and original stuff too. I finally managed to get an original dealers emblem for my truck at a swap meet a couple weeks back, it snapped right back into the holes that were still there.

If you havent already you might wanna check behind or under the seat, sometimes they stashed a build sheet between the springs.

Finding original parts that fit like that is one of the pleasures of working on old equipment. I have looked under and behind my seat, but no luck. So it goes.

Originally Posted by 69cummins

looking good!

Thank you very much.

[oldman3]

Hey Jim, nice detail as usual, you do such a great job on all your post. Catch you next post......Jim

[bollybib]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Hey Jim, nice detail as usual, you do such a great job on all your post. Catch you next post......Jim

Thanks Jim, I get a lot out of your posts, too. See ya'.