67 SWB with must II front & 4 link rear.

[Film Guy]

Turmoline, Thanks for your pics. This may be exactly what I am looking for. I didn't get a chance to call Fatman today. I will real soon. Did Fatman give you any information how low this member sits in frame? ex. centerline of front axel (center of spindle) to bottom of frame. The Jim meyers unit has a axel centerline that is .75 inches above the bottom of the frame. I was also wondering how wide from wheel mount to wheel mount it is. Did you opt for the rack and pinion? These are all things I plan to do this winter. It sure would be good to have your experience. Your pics look good. Any close ups on the crossmember?

[turmoline]

film guy, I did the swap about 4 years ago. I'll look back in my paperwork to see if I can find out about spindle location. some of things I encountered were after going with the standard rack (on fatmans recomendation) I went with the power rack later. had to make new motor mount,notchthe frame for the steering shaft, relocate brake lines, and shorten the steering column. I actually bought a flaming river 30" column,flaming river joints.and slip shaft to accomodate the angle. I have the info and pics somewhere. Hope this helps.

[67'ShortMonster]

TURMOLINE -
Couple questions for you....

When you say it rubbed with the 2" drop spindles... where did it rub..? inside or outside.

I am wondering if i go with this setup and 2" drop spindles, if i can run a 20X9 upfront with a +10 offset and 275 40 20's with it a problem... I can modify the inner fenders.... so i am wondering if it will work.

[turmoline]

the tires rubbed on the inside with 2" drop spindles. I cut the coil 1 turn to get the lower control arm level. Film guy, the spindle center is even with the frame bottom with standard spindles. at first the 2" drop spindles worked great but with time the coils settled and the tire would rub. I measured from center to center of the tire and got 59 5/8" tracking width. One big thing I forgot to mention was with the fatman setup it changed the wheels to a 5 on 4 3/4 bolt pattern. I have 4 wheel discs and just machined and drilled the back axle to match (from the 6 lug pattern). my fronts are 20x8 with a 0 offset or4.5" backspacing. From lock to lock with the 2" drop spindles the tires did not rub its just while driving and encountering the many bumps that these california roads dish out that I decided to go with the standard spindles and with the next step to add air bags. I'll upload you guys some more pics. Hope the info helps.

[turmoline]

Am not too good at this comp stuff. I"m going to have to figure out how to resize the pics so that I can upload them.

[FirstGen]

you can download a very handy program called Irfanview for free to help you quickly resize pictures...

http://www.irfanview.com/

good looking truck btw!

[EyeH8the24]

<<<~~~~~~~~~~ looking to buy a set of spindles and big brakes for a m2 supension...................

[67'ShortMonster]

I got my M2 spindles from fatrodder.com He has stuff on e-bay, i just phoned him directly... he can set you up with brakes too. I just recieved my stuff, and it doesn't look that bad... price seemed pretty good. Took a couple weeks to get it... but, i am in canada.

[raidermanny]

I just came across this post and thought I would post a few pics of my Fatman stage 3 kit. I have everything that they sent installed but am not sure yet what I'm gonna do about motor mounts or steering shaft. I really like the looks of the kit. Also mine came with a 5x5 bolt pattern.

[Bowtie67]

[QUOTE=raidermanny]I just came across this post and thought I would post a few pics of my Fatman stage 3 kit. I have everything that they sent installed but am not sure yet what I'm gonna do about motor mounts or steering shaft. I really like the looks of the kit. Also mine came with a 5x5 bolt pattern.
QUOTE]

This frontend looks really sweet and would like to see some more picks of it is possible, especially a full frontal view showing the rack setup, also would like a pick of the front ride height. Did you get the 2" lowered spindles or keep the stock height spindles with this setup.
I ordered this setup 12/8/05 for my 67 in partial to the fact that I am having to narrow the rear end setup to put some wider meets back there so I can get some hookup while contemplating all of this I have also been looking at possibly pulling the whole frame out and replacing all of it with a 2X4 boxed frame setup. I found a place in PA. that will make up the Frame Rails, for in my opinion very, very resonable money, I can do all the welding so they wouldnt have to put the frame together.

What is the measurement from the lower frame rail to the top of the cross member.

I would like to note for everyone reading this post, N2TRUX mentioned in his previous post about ScottsHotRods, what he did not mention is some of the issues that he went through with them, he also had someone install this setup for him and the good part was they knew what they where doing and could resolve the issues. I also have dealt with these guys and they have NO Clue what they are doing, they do not have an engineer designing these they just take copies of other setups and try to imitate them. When I had originally ordered mine from them it was over eight months getting everything from them as well as they still owe me money. Although the stuff looked very sturdy it wasnt engineered properly and I had to redo several things to get things right(somewhat). If you have any doubts to what I am saying just call any professional shop that does IFS setups and ask them about Scotts HotRods..

[67'ShortMonster]

Ended up designing my own mustang 2 crossmember. It wasn't really too much work. I am a CAD guy so it's all in Autocad... i am gonna have all the steel cut out on Monday. Not really much to them... just a bunch of 3/16 plate patterns. You can get pretty low with a mustang 2 crossmember in the front.... 2" drop spindles really take it down. Had i do it again, i probably would have just used stock spindles. But it should look good when it's done. I probably will end up with it lowered 6" in the front, and 8" in the back. Hopefully this isn't gonna cause to many problems. I will be running 20X9.5 wheels all the way around with 255-35-20's on all of them. Again, i hope this isn't a big deal.
I ended up having to widen the stock mustang 2 dimensions by 3"... so I will have to make some steering rack widening pieces. I think Macgyvers sells them though too.
I don't really want to sell Crossmembers.... or give out drawings becuase i am not sure how well this will work, and I don't think too many vendors would like this... but for any one who is good with a welder, and can punch some numbers, it might be an idea to go this way instead of buying a crossmember for $800 plus.

[EyeH8the24]

what year spindles work with the so called big disc brake kits ? or all the spindles the same ..also what is the biggest brakes you can run on a m2 set up ? i see 11 and 12 inch brakes on evil bay ...also have seen a 13 inch from another site ..forgot the company name...this are some sweet looking front end pics posted...what did you use for the upper bag mount ? thanks

[67'ShortMonster]

I think everyone pretty much uses the same M2 spindle... Either stock or 2" drop... As far as brakes... there are kits.
I figured out a way i could run the 97-2004 vette front setup pretty easily. But you have to make a custom hub, bracket ect. The vette brakes are about 13" i think. That's why i wanted to use them. And you can get the stuff like calipers reasonably. But you have to be able to fab it all to work.

[EyeH8the24]

my bud runs a machine shop and builds fiberglass kit cars ....so he can machine it ...and help i would appreciate

[67'ShortMonster]

Okay... well, help i can do.
You can use the 97-04 rotors, but you have to go to a 5X 4.75" bolt pattern, or re-drill the rotors.
Next, you need to make a hub. Easiest, is to get a hub rotor combination that works, like the ford granada, or mustang 2 rotor, use the bearings ect for mounting the stock hub/rotor to the spindle... easy. They both have the integral rotor/hub. Even old ones will work. Get your buddy to machine the rotor from the hub. You don't need it. You also have to machin the back side of the hub for mounting the new rotor too. The corvette rotor doesn't have much of a hat length. Meaning, the rotor is almost flat. Mustang2/chevy, ect all have about a 4" hat... so mounting the rotor to the back of the hub works. At this point re-drill your hubs if you want a different bolt pattern, should be done on a lathe to make sure it's centric. Use the existing bolt pattern as mounting holes for the new rotor. Tap the holes in the ford 5X4.5 pattern (ford granada) for mounting the rotor. Line the rotor stud holes up and then drill the rotors for two patterns. The first is hole pattern to mount the rotor to the hub. Second set of holes for the studs (wheel mount) This is why it's easier to stay with the corvette pattern. One less set of holes to drill. The bolts you use to mount the rotor to the hub should not go out past the wheel mounting surface. Use SHORT bolts, and feel free to use generous amounts of heat safe loctite.
Next, buy the calipers, and pads. The mounting slide bracket can still be purchased from GM... I think it's about $100. Get all this stuff, and with your spindle... Put it all together with the caliper floating on the rotor. Look at how the mustang brake bracket mounts. And make a plate that will mount the corvette brake bracket with the two mount holes... to the stock mustang spindle. Build that... assembly it all... find a master cylinder....
Should do it.
That's the just of it... If course, keep in mind... i haven't actually done this... i have looked at all the parts and realized it's quite do-able... but i decided to go with bolt on stuff that was cheaper... I couldn't afford all the corvette stuff at the time. Rotors $100, Caliper $100 + bracket $ 100 Pads $150

ect ect ect

[smbrouss70]

I'm sorry, but I feel obligated to say this. Bolting a rotor to the back side of the hub sounds very dangerous. The rotors that are designed to be separated from the hub are sandwiched between the hub and wheel. That way, the only way the rotor can come off is if the whole wheel comes off, and then brakes wouldn't do much good anyway.

I don't mean to offend anyone, I just don't want anyone on our wonderful board to go and hurt themselves or others.

[Bowtie67]

Fatman Fabrications offers an Aluminum Hub that a brake hat will fit on, They will drill whatever bolt pattern you want. Or have someone CNC something out of billet, These Trucks are exceptionally heavy in the frontend, using soft materials wont hold up. As for Mustang spindles being the same, they are not... Some of the better sets actually use a forged spindle and have some slight variations from stock.

[67'ShortMonster]

As far as bolting on a rotor... well, your wheels from the vette use a 7/16" stud, so you use 1/2" short bolts to mount the rotor... you tell me which is stronger. Not necessarily saying it is safer. But, there are like listed above, aluminum hubs and stuff, where rotors bolt to them. Lots of aftermarket brakes are two peice, and bolt together, in my opinion it would be fine, but everyone to there own.
When i said mustang 2 spindles being the same, i was meaning there dimensional design, not the materials... and you are right.... some spindles and made really crappy, and shouldn't even probably be on the market.

[EyeH8the24]

anyone made anyprogress ? pics ? i have my rotors and rack left to buy and i will start my install

[67'ShortMonster]

I got my front crossmember designed and we welded it together and bolted everything up before christmas, it worked fairly well, but i should have stretched it 4 inches wider than the orignial mustang 2 instead of 3 inches. The extra inch would have be perfect. We decided to pocket the frame rails were the upper control arms attached to make sure there was enough adjustment in the suspension. Other than that it went pretty smoothly. The coil overs fit perfectly, and the steering rack i bought is also gonna work like a charm. I am not sure what the fat man crossmember was worth anymore. But i think it was expensive, and i am sure i will have only $400 tops into the crossmember itself... plus coilovers, brakes, control arms and the other stuff. But it's almost done, ... Don't have picture right now... sorry. I ended up using rotors from a early chevelle, and calipers from a mid 80's s-10 4x4. Not the best setup in the world, but it will work fine for now. Fatrodder.com control arms worked awesome, same with his spindles... and the price was really decent.

[EyeH8the24]

what size are the chevelle rotors ? im thinkin i need somthin biggerthan a 11 inch rotor ...i plan to run 18's up front and 20's in the rear ..wit hrear disc

[67'ShortMonster]

chevelle rotors are 11 or 11 1/2" or something in between. I know what you mean by bigger rotors. I plan to run 20's all the way around, and the rotors are gonna look real small. You could do as i explained above and use the newer 13" corvette rotors, but it is a bit of work.... and $$$

[EyeH8the24]

they make 13 inch rotors for the m2 kits...the are about 1700 for the kit ,best i remember...what bearings do you use with the chevelle rotors ?

[cst70rocket]

Originally Posted by turmoline

I hope the pic worked. I have the fatman bolt in mustang II.stage 2 kit. Real easy to work with. the pic is with standard spindles. The truck handles real well with the spring set up. I tried running 2" drop spindles to get the truck to ride a little lower but the tires would rub pretty bad while cornering. Iam currently going to experiment with air bags to see how the performance changes. the tracking width narrows from stock with this setup.

Man I love the way that sits, but damn those are some tiny brake rotors!!! Does it stop good? I mean panic stop??

[67'ShortMonster]

I used the m2 bearings & races... had to machine the rotor a bit for it all to work right. The bore is correct, just need to sholder it a bit to get the rotor to sit on the spindle a little farther... I think that's what I did... can't remember 100% though.