good overdrive tranny??

[Wildcard]

350 shortest then 700 few inchs longer then 200R4 even couple more inchs longer.

Call Hughs or TCI and tell them your engine setup, camshaft specs all mods to your engine, rearend ration and aproxemate weight of you truck and they can set you up wit the correct stall converter this pretty critical of you vehicle with not idle in gear will pull the RPM of the motor down to far and motor will be slobbery and hard to keep idleing, most cases you are recommended a to small of rpm stall and you have to idle the engine to high at idle for it to engage into gear harshly and motor pulls down to much and loads the engine to much to idle sufficiently. which you have no stall anymore, you want the engine to raise a proper amount of rpm them move the vehicle to less of stall and you let off the brake and off she goes, my 2100lb 28 ford coupe hotrod has a 2600 stall and is to low for the engine setup and always have to shift the trans to neutral at a stop to clean the engine out cause the big cam loads up the motor with to much fuel at idle and want to try to die with idle set the high it is you shut the motor off hot and it diesels on me, have to keep the trans in gear then turn the key off and it stops the motor immediatlely.

700R4 will not bolt in exact length place as a 350 you have to shorten your driveshaft!!

If you look up conversion kit from 700R4 to a 350 for like a 4x4 truck *which years ago was a popular conversion cause the 700 was way more expensive to overhaul and a lot of people really didn`t like them), the kit comes with most importantly a spacer that goes between the rear case of the trans on the 350 to keep the factory transfercase adaptor or transfercase to stay in the stock 700 location cause the 350 case is Shorter and/or you could use a output shaft from a shortshaft 2wd and cut about 2inch off it or use the supplied shaft if you don`t have one to cut down and all you 44x4 drivelines would stay the same the tranfercase linkage doesn`t have to me modified etc......


Good Luck, Wildcard

[MARKDTN]

You have to ask yourself why GM never used a 200R4 behind anything bigger than a 307 Olds. No Corvettes, no big blocks, not even a 305 IROC. 200R4 was used in the Turbo Regals and GNs, but they don't last long there after engine mods. True, the GN was the highest performance application stock but in truth the 200R4 in stock form is not all that strong. They do require a rebuild to use much power or you will shatter the insides. If you are going to build the 200R4 first then fine, just don't yank a used one out and expect it to last in a truck. They were never used in a Corvette with the CrossFire (205HP/290 Torque) or TPI IROC (195HP/295 torque) which was about the same power as a stock GN (200HP/300 torque)-much less a 250HP TPI Corvette.

I'm not saying don't use a 200R4. I am saying that it might not last long if you take a used one out of a tired V6 or 305 A-Body and put it in a heavy truck with a 350/350 and trounce on it. I would do a 700R4. They got a bad reputation from early on, but if you get an '88 up core with the improved guts they last a long time. They also get a bad rap for swaps for people that didn't adjust the TV cable and burn them up fast. You should not start the engine until the TV cable is properly adjusted!! It is that important. The 4L60E that is still used today is a derivative of the 700R4 and they last a long time. I have one in my '01 Tahoe with 280K+ miles that has never been out. The 200R4 can be built to handle the power for sure, but a 700R4 can do it with a lot less mods. The current 4L60E shares some internals with some of the last 700R4 (4L60) transmissions.

[67ChevyRedneck]

If you're looking at 400+ horsepower a stock 700R won't last long, especially a 25+ year old junkyard unit. Back when these trans were used most vehicles they were in, even full size trucks and camaros only had around 220-270-ish horsepower, depending on application, but most were in that lower range. You will need a performance built 700R by a reputable shop.

[no1udknow]

Originally Posted by Wildcard

If you are going way high performance neck braker shifts than a Hughs would be a good choice.

Good Luck, Wildcard

no thanks... I don't really need a shift kit, My dad's 72 had a pretty aggressive shift kit and I hated the way it slammed through the gears.

[no1udknow]

Originally Posted by Wildcard

each carb manufacturer make a bolt on kit that attachs to the linkage off the side of the carbs to relocate the position of the cable that operates a 700 and all will be good. kinda of a spendy kit but well worth the like of the trans. I purchased one and have made a cardboard pattern of it and have make my own for every carb I had to correct.

Wildcard

care to share?? I have no problems fabricating a new bracket, I'm sure it's not that hard.

[russgoodman]

After dealing with the 200r4 in my Buick, I'm putting a 700r4 in the truck. They are too hard and expensive to (correctly) rebuild and they are harder to find. That's just my personal opinion after many headaches with the 200r4.

[no1udknow]

man... too much love/hate with 700's maybe I'll just run a t5 and call it good lol. you never hear anyone saying how weak stick shifts are or how they don't last.... because they have no clutch bands, no valve bodies, no tv cables... no b.s. I'm starting to think a manual is the way to go. Wildcard...what say you?? I already have a stick shift high hump I saved from my 67 parts truck... you know... just in case

[67ChevyRedneck]

T5's won't hold up to that HP either, most of those never had much more than 300 HP in front of them, and most had much less than that. When mustangs started getting higher in the HP they moved to the stronger T45, and I believe GM went to the T56. The NV4500 is a strong trans, but I don't know if those were really built for spirited shifting? (came in full size GM/Dodge trucks).

[67swb72klb]

no1udknow

Wildcard
care to share?? I have no problems fabricating a new bracket, I'm sure it's not that hard.

this is what I have as far as carb geometry...
sorry no pics..

SUBJECT: Proper installation of the throttle valve cable on after-market carburetors or fuel injections. This information applies to all 700R4, 4L60 and 200-4R transmissions. Throttle valve cable adjustment instructions, numbers 4, 5 and 6.
#1. The button that the cable hooks to at the carburetor or throttle body must have a 1 and 3/32-inch radius from the center of the throttle shaft to the center of the button the cable hooks to.



#2. Looking at the throttle shaft lever from the left side at idle position, 33% of the throttle lever total travel must be to the rear of the throttle shaft centerline. And at wide-open throttle, 67% to the front of the throttle shaft centerline. This will be about ½-inch to the rear and 1 inch to the front of the throttle shaft centerline.

#3. The throttle valve cable must be hooked up in this manner so the pressure will rise faster off idle and slow down at heavy throttle. If the pressure cable is pulled in a more even manner the pressure will be too low at light throttle. Failure to hook-up the throttle cable in this way will burn the three-four clutch pack up fast.

#4. The throttle valve cable controls transmission pressure. Adjusting this cable is the most important step when installing a 700R4, 4L60 or 200-4R transmission.

#5. The final step is to adjust the throttle valve cable. The cable must be adjusted so it is pulled fully out at wide-open throttle. To make sure disconnect the cable, hold the throttle wide open with your left hand, pull the cable fully out with your right hand and see if the cable end lines up with the button on the throttle lever. The cable should also be pulled out 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch at idle.

[Doug's68SS]

How about a Gear Vendors Overdrive? I haven't driven mine yet

[no1udknow]

Originally Posted by Doug's68SS

How about a Gear Vendors Overdrive? I haven't driven mine yet

Yeah, seen those on Trucks!.... little too spendy for my taste.

If t5's suck, what would be a good choice for a manual trans besides the t56? only reason I say besides t56 is that they are hard to come by and everyone wants $1000 for one, and then I have to spend another few hundred dollars getting everything else I need.

[67ChevyRedneck]

That's the problem you're going to run into when you add horsepower. More HP = more $$$. LS guys have the same problem. They have to swap their 4L60 to a 4L80 if they add more power (to a point, the 4L60 can handle a little more power), or have the 4L60 rebuilt to handle that power. You've started down an $ path

T5's don't suck. They're GREAT trannies. I have one in my 65 mustang. Good gear ratio spread and good OD (around 30%) They're just not rated to handle more than 300HP. I also had one in my 99 S10.

One of the many reasons I went with the 260 HP crate engine (I have a "stock" 700R now I don't want to rebuild). Power gets expensive.

[Ozzy2013]

I have the whole new process 4500 with clutch ,pressure plate ,blow proof belhousing set up for hydraulic or manual clutch .Everything you need except the pedals and a clutch fork .Its all rebuilt and ready to go 1200.00 if thats something you might be interested in see my ad.

[tjc]

I am with Doug' 68SS I will be running a Gear Vendor behind my 454.

[erikoj]

what about putting a 700r4 into a k 10? will it mate up to the transfer case? I understand that the motor may have to move forward or the driveshafts re-done.

[68nou1]

Just picked up a 200 4r for my old 72 a couple of weeks ago to replace the th350. After reading this though i'm kinda wishing i would have held off. Thought i was doing good on finding one and researching that they are the same overall size as a th350, figured it would be a good fit. Came out of an 89 ss monte, hope i didnt screw the pooch and picked it up for $200. Going behind my tired of 350 for now. O well guess ill see how it goes.

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by erikoj

what about putting a 700r4 into a k 10? will it mate up to the transfer case? I understand that the motor may have to move forward or the driveshafts re-done.

Not to distract from the original thread topic but if you've got a turbo 350 np205 with the turbo 350 adapter and output/input coupler, all you need is either a shorter tranny output shaft or a ~2" spacer for between the case and transmission. You can get the spacer from ORD, or advance adapters. The output shaft is available at advance adapters and probably lots of other places, you have to pretty much completely tear down the tranny to swap the output shaft however.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by no1udknow

Hey guys. I finally drove my 68 today for a bit, and the th350 is not going to work out for me. I really need an overdrive trans. Not only was the truck revving to the moon at about 60, the speedo was registering about 85-90 mph amd I'm posutive I was ne where near that. I have heard that sometimes 200r4 trannys are better than 700r4s, and that 4l80e need electronic signal to make them shift. I am also considering the t56 but that involves a lot more to swap to a stick. Any input apreciated thanks.

Any of those is a good choice, if it's built right. I prefer the 200-4R because of the gear ratios 2.75:1 first gear and ease of installation (same length as short shaft T350 that comes standard in these trucks).

700R4 has 3.08:1 first gear and is same length as a medium length T350 but that one doesn't come standard in these trucks.

Overdrive ratios are close, but 200 will cut the RPM's a slight bit more than the 700.

I build my own transmissions, so I don't know an aftermarket supplier who is good. Davepl I think has a 200-4R in his truck he might be of assistance on finding a good supplier, unless he built it himself.

I believe the 4L80E sucks up a few more horsepower than the other 2 automatics.

[Wildcard]

Originally Posted by 67swb72klb

no1udknow

Wildcard
care to share?? I have no problems fabricating a new bracket, I'm sure it's not that hard.

this is what I have as far as carb geometry...
sorry no pics..

SUBJECT: Proper installation of the throttle valve cable on after-market carburetors or fuel injections. This information applies to all 700R4, 4L60 and 200-4R transmissions. Throttle valve cable adjustment instructions, numbers 4, 5 and 6.
#1. The button that the cable hooks to at the carburetor or throttle body must have a 1 and 3/32-inch radius from the center of the throttle shaft to the center of the button the cable hooks to.



#2. Looking at the throttle shaft lever from the left side at idle position, 33% of the throttle lever total travel must be to the rear of the throttle shaft centerline. And at wide-open throttle, 67% to the front of the throttle shaft centerline. This will be about ½-inch to the rear and 1 inch to the front of the throttle shaft centerline.

#3. The throttle valve cable must be hooked up in this manner so the pressure will rise faster off idle and slow down at heavy throttle. If the pressure cable is pulled in a more even manner the pressure will be too low at light throttle. Failure to hook-up the throttle cable in this way will burn the three-four clutch pack up fast.

#4. The throttle valve cable controls transmission pressure. Adjusting this cable is the most important step when installing a 700R4, 4L60 or 200-4R transmission.

#5. The final step is to adjust the throttle valve cable. The cable must be adjusted so it is pulled fully out at wide-open throttle. To make sure disconnect the cable, hold the throttle wide open with your left hand, pull the cable fully out with your right hand and see if the cable end lines up with the button on the throttle lever. The cable should also be pulled out 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch at idle.

X2 , Nice write up.. a lot of people say they don`t want a shift kit cause they don`t want harsh shifts. this all depends on what level or stage of kit you put in, a Transco Jr kit makes for quicker shift but not to firm and improves pressure where they are to low and visa versa. actual name of the new kit is a Systems Correction and Recalibration kit, in old days they were shift kit cause they would just effect shift firmness and not improve factory imperfection like mentioned earlier the constant burning and failure of the 3-4 clutch, the factory has still not addressed this issue enough in the 4L60/4L65-E transmissions I do several a month and over 90percent still have burned or glazed 3-4 clutchs no matter what the failure before tear down, other common problem is stipping or breaking the spines on the drive shell and No Reverse, factory only sell a replacement shell buy trans part suppliers and aftermarket offer a hardened shell.

If you want harder shift install a Transco greenbox kit and it can be calibrated to 2 different stages, streetrod/ hotrod, Taxi, Snowplow options are in the kit and adjustability of shift feel and shift point can be calibrated and tuned to customers likeing.

Any when the TV cable is adjusted properly should have a 2-1 kickdown even states this in the calibration kits (If you let this trans leave your shop without a 2-1 kickdown it will kick you in the pants) exact words in tech pages of the Transco kits. So take the trans for a drive under normal moderate take off easy throttle as as soon as the trans shift to 2nd around 15mph, floor the throttle if the trans does not come back to 1st gear kickdown give the cable another click of adjustment and continue until it has one, if trans doesn`t get a 2-1 kickdown buy yet the shift point are getting to high of engagement speeds the cable has stretch or the inner TV valve need updated, The Transco kit have an awesome redesigned New style TV valve that will not stick and saves the 3-4 clutchs and aids to proper cable adjustment.

Good Luck, Wildcard

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by erikoj

what about putting a 700r4 into a k 10? will it mate up to the transfer case? I understand that the motor may have to move forward or the driveshafts re-done.

Yes, my '83 K20 has a 700R4 from new.

[70's luvr]

Thanks for the info Wildcard!