Totally disgusted - flat cam

[piecesparts]

My guess is that your oil type was not the issue with the failure. Especially 500 miles on the engine. The fact of the matter, is that you said that you were using a break-in oil, so you should have been protected. The discussion for zinc in the oil is a good item to consider. That would leave two possibilities---the cam material failed or you could have had an oiling passage failure. I would go throught the whole set of oil galleys to make sure that they are clean before reassmbly again. Been there, felt the pain.

[1972RedNeck]

Originally Posted by sir_talk_alot

thanks to the government about 7-8 years ago, they removed zinc.

The EPA, created on December 4, 1970 by order number 1110.2, mandated that "car manufacturers warranty Three Way Catalytic converters on new cars built since 2004 for 120,000 miles."

When using high zinc oils, the catalytic converters get covered with a zinc coating, limiting life to around 60,000 miles. To meet the EPA's mandates, car manufactures worked with the API to create new, lower Zinc oils that allow catalytic converters to run for over 120,000 miles.

I found an oil dealer in Great Falls that carries military spec oil. 1400 ppm is zinc.

[Eddie H.]

It sounds like you did everything right, and unfortuately just got stuck with defective parts.

Personally, I think the quality of parts has really declined in recent years. ( I have never used comp cams. I heard too many stories of lobe failures, even before the zinc was removed from motor oil) I would never buy one.

I spent 40 years working on cars and trucks for a living, built more engines than I can remember, and never once had a cam failure.

Just my own personal opinion, for whatever it's worth, I think the folks at comp cams owe you an apology as well as an engine rebuild.

[Horsman]

Originally Posted by Eddie H.

It sounds like you did everything right, and unfortuately just got stuck with defective parts.

Personally, I think the quality of parts has really declined in recent years. ( I have never used comp cams. I heard too many stories of lobe failures, even before the zinc was removed from motor oil) I would never buy one.

I spent 40 years working on cars and trucks for a living, built more engines than I can remember, and never once had a cam failure.

Just my own personal opinion, for whatever it's worth, I think the folks at comp cams owe you an apology as well as an engine rebuild.

I agree, I have built many engines and this is a first for me. The guys at Comp assured me I did something wrong, but did say they would give me a good deal on a roller cam.

[Eddie H.]

"I spent 40 years working on cars and trucks for a living, built more engines than I can remember, and never once had a cam failure."

Actually, I remember having one cam failure back in 1973 when I was dumb enough to install a used cam without using new lifters.

[bowtiecharlie]

Well it sounds like a bad camshaft!! Back in the late 70's and earley eighties chevy had a big problem with theres!!! I worked at a chevy dealer then and we used there replacement cams/lifters only to have them fail again!!! I did my share of them, under warranty! We got smart and started using reground cams from the 70's with new lifters from the local machine shop,we never had one come back.We used breakin lube on both. If it was me,I would NEVER buy a comp product again!! Roller or what ever. To many other options,that have a good company reputation. They stick to customer satisfaction!!If you still have the original break in oil, You can have that oil analized,and it will determine what is in the oil,and it may determine the cause of your failure. Good luck

[Eddie H.]

Originally Posted by Horsman

I agree, I have built many engines and this is a first for me. The guys at Comp assured me I did something wrong, but did say they would give me a good deal on a roller cam.

I guess that's one way to sell their roller cams. it's always easier to just blame the customer than to stand behind your products.

[piecesparts]

I have an engine builder that has changed over to the Synergyn products for every engine that he puts out the door. He also runs it in his vehicles daily.

As for cam failures, GM had some serious issues in the past with flat lobes on their cams and I had to pull a few as a mechanic for a fleet of trucks. I have a comp roller cam in my stroker engine, but my son'e truck has a Crane non-roller cam in it and it is working great to date.

Personally I would pull the engine and inspect the cam bearings, rod bearings, and oil galleys for any debris. You have too much in it now to do just a rudimentary repair on it.


http://www.synergynracing.com/

[darkhorse970]

Well, I have to say that this causes me concern. I have a mild 355 on the engine stand about ready to go in my '63. It has a New Comp cam and lifter set in it already. I have used Gibbs cam and lifter grease and i am planning to use Gibbs break in oil. My machine shop reworked my heads and set up the valve springs to work with that cam...I will follow the machine shops breakin procedures and see how it goes.
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[Eddie H.]

Yep, I was working for a Chevy dealer back in the early eighties, so I remember the cam problems.
I have had very good service from Crane cams in the past. I don't know if their quality is still what it used to be though.

[Eddie H.]

Originally Posted by darkhorse970

Well, I have to say that this causes me concern. I have a mild 355 on the engine stand about ready to go in my '63. It has a New Comp cam and lifter set in it already. I have used Gibbs cam and lifter grease and i am planning to use Gibbs break in oil. My machine shop reworked my heads and set up the valve springs to work with that cam...I will follow the machine shops breakin procedures and see how it goes.
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Maybe you'll get lucky, and not have any problems. A lot of people will swear by Comp cams and have had good service out of them.

For me personally, it will be a cold day in a very warm place before I will ever buy one.

[Horsman]

Originally Posted by darkhorse970

Well, I have to say that this causes me concern. I have a mild 355 on the engine stand about ready to go in my '63. It has a New Comp cam and lifter set in it already. I have used Gibbs cam and lifter grease and i am planning to use Gibbs break in oil. My machine shop reworked my heads and set up the valve springs to work with that cam...I will follow the machine shops breakin procedures and see how it goes.
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Bite the bullet and install a roller cam. I will never buy another flat tappet cam as long as I live.

Having to pull my engine and completely start over is pure hell to me.

[So.Cal.Super]

Originally Posted by Horsman

Bite the bullet and install a roller cam. I will never buy another flat tappet cam as long as I live.

Having to pull my engine and completely start over is pure hell to me.

x2

[midniteblues]

I've only seen a couple flat lobes in my time.
but the worst was when bigg $$$ was spent on a fresh bb and it ate the cam after break in
I'm glad is wasnt mine but I'll tell ya i sure felt his pain knowing what he had into the engine.

Yours looks so clean I too would hate too have too tear back into it.like others said it makes a roller sound like the ovious choice.

[Horsman]

Originally Posted by midniteblues

I've only seen a couple flat lobes in my time.
but the worst was when bigg $$$ was spent on a fresh bb and it ate the cam after break in
I'm glad is wasnt mine but I'll tell ya i sure felt his pain knowing what he had into the engine.

Yours looks so clean I too would hate too have too tear back into it.like others said it makes a roller sound like the ovious choice.

It was so much easier doing the install when the truck was like this.

[71swb4x4]

It's not that hard to pull the front clip. Most of the pieces you are unhooking when you pull the engine anyway, radiator hoses, battery cables, etc.
Unbolt the core support from the frame, cowl panel, fenders from the cab, and away you go.
Of course you have to draw the line somewhere or else the truck will be in 30 pieces before the end of the day.

[midniteblues]

Originally Posted by Horsman

It was so much easier doing the install when the truck was like this.

I hear ya on that I'm about too do it the same way

[prostreetC-10]

You leave that motor in and just install a new cam, even if it's a roller (which is what I did), you are nuts. You have a great chance of losing the entire motor. Look through this thread and look at my posts/pics. I have been right where you are at. You want to see what a wiped lobe does to bearings???? Look on....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=557288

My heart goes out to you. That has to be the worse pit in your stomach.

[GASoline71]

It happed to me as well... So I feel your pain. There was so much garbage in my oil, that I lost a crank as well. The amount of metal particles that was throughout the entire engine was crazy. You should have seen how much was under the baffle in the oil pan alone. What I learned is that after the initial cam break in. CHANGE THE OIL. Do not run the break in oil for 500 miles like we used to in the olden days.

If I do a flat tappet cam... I break it in using straight 30wt oil with Comp Cams break in additive. Do the break in procedure and then CHANGE THE OIL to 10w30 with ZDDP additive. I will then drive the rig for about 200 miles and CHANGE THE OIL. Again using 10w30 and a ZDDP additive. Then I go to my normal oil change routine. Haven't had one go flat since.

Gary

[68350]

I removed the 402 in my restored cheyenne super without tranny. Just take ur time. Id remove the radiator and all of that too. If u pull distributor its easy to get at top tranny bolts. Good luck and sorry to hear about ur luck.
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[64fleetside]

I've built dozens of engines, possibly hundreds, in the last 25 yrs-the only engine failure I've ever had was a Comp cam way back in the '90s-was an exhaust lobe on a 289. I thought I did everything right(break-in etc), Comp warranteed the cam but nothing else.

I like using a WIX racing filter 51060R during break in, more flow + more filtration.

[Jaysonb]

I plan on putting in a cam this winter, and this has worried the heck out of me. My buddy just had 2 lobes go flat in about 200 miles, ruined a fresh big block in his trans am. What is the cost difference in going with a roller set up?
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[big d's red67]

I had the same thing happen to my 454 after 11 miles , my machinist told me when I built it to put a roller set up in it because the lack of zink in the oil was killing lobes on all cams. I didn't so I had to do a second rebulid plus a valve job on a brand new set of heads. I feel your pain.

[64fleetside]

Looks like $500+.

[glljr]

I put a used 25 year old comp cam in my 327 back in june and haven't had an issue yet I feel that the newer cams aren't as strong as they use to be