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Old 01-26-2003, 01:49 PM   #26
crazy longhorn
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Yes, forged/steel.........
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Old 01-26-2003, 09:26 PM   #27
Vince M
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OK all this talk about cranks begs the question to be asked. What is the easist way to identify which one I have. I pulled the motor and tranny today and the freeze plugs in the rear behind the flexplate look brand new. I'm pretty sure the motor has had a recent rebuild but the guy I bought it from didn't know the history of anything. The motor and tranny are the original year to the truck just not sure if it is from this truck. Everything looks original though.

It looks like I might keep this motor for a while and make some easy mods to it.

Thanks for all the commemts on the 327 most of it I didn't know about. This is my first small small block.
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Old 01-26-2003, 10:20 PM   #28
mikep
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If you look at the parting line on the crankshaft a forged crank will have a 1/4 inch or more width. A cast crank will have a very thin line.

The parting line is the ridge that runs the length of the crankshaft on its non machined surfaces.

One curious thing about forged cranks is their distinctive "ring" . Stand one up and tap it with a wrench.It will ring like a bell. Cast cranks will just go "thud" .

The forged steel crankshaft in my 350 is one I picked up in a junkyard 18 years ago in Oceanside, California and was carting around for that long before I built a motor around it.
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Old 01-29-2003, 03:05 PM   #29
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Stroker, thanks for the article, I thought I had the article, and a guy on this board was pm'ing me for a copy. Now I have it again, and am grateful. Thanks.
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Old 01-29-2003, 06:46 PM   #30
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jku72, glad I could be of help. If you ever build one let me know how it turns out....Stroker
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Old 01-30-2003, 01:23 AM   #31
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Keep the good buildup ideas coming!
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Old 01-30-2003, 02:04 AM   #32
MAC67
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ok right off the bat ,,i saw a couple guys say somthin about goin with a comp or crane cam,,,DONT DO IT!!!!!!!!! spend the extra money and get a good cam ,,go either luinatti or isky,,,the comp ,,crane and alot of other brands are made extremely soft and i have watched alot of good motors fall victim to those junk cams within the first month of running,,,the lobes go away and go away fast,,the you end up pumpin shavings clear through youre hole motor,,if i were you i would do the aluminum heads and fuel injection,,on a 327 that would be a killer combo,,and i agree with that other guy ,,i forgot his name,,,327 is the king of the small blocks,,all the power of a 350 it just does it faster,,woo hoo,,...but if it were me ,,id go to that other idea you had,,,let me refresh youre memory,,BIG BLOCK BIG BLOCK BIG BLOCK BIG BLOCK BIG BLOCK BIG BLOCK BIG BLOCK BIG BLOCK,,,,ABSOLUTLEY NO REPLACEMENT FOR GOOD OLE CUBIC INCHES
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Old 01-30-2003, 10:40 AM   #33
crazy longhorn
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MAC67, I have heard the stories on the Comp cams......cant give much info on that ...yet. I have an XE 268 in my 383, with 3000 miles on it......& Im not seeing any problems. This is the only Comp that I have run.......Crane , on the other hand , I have run a bunch of them over the yrs & I have NEVER seen a lobe failure on Crane cam that was properly broke in! The Olds guys tend to like Engle, or Ultradyne for cam selection(I ran an Engle in my 455). I have run several different, & some off brand cams, & as long as the rest of the valve train was "right on" , fire up was quick, & they were run @ 2000-2500 for the first 20-30 min(also no "buzz' the throttle for the first 150-200 mi)......I honestly havent seen lobe problems with any cam I have used....crazyL
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Old 01-30-2003, 10:44 AM   #34
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I am in the slow process of building mine but I am going TPI on a 60 over 327. Steel crank with the older "fuelly" "double hump" 2.02 heads. I have a Crane cam designed for the TPI. I am excited but moving slow. My truck is also apart at this time. I hope it is a going dude when complete.
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Old 01-30-2003, 01:32 PM   #35
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I have a stock 66 Vette with the 327/350 HP (L79). It is a great combo in that car with the 4 speed. I don't think it would be the best in a truck where you probably want torque.

If you are just crusin around with your 4 speed truck then it would be cool. One of the best sounding combos in my opinion with my factory side pipes on my Vette.
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Old 01-30-2003, 02:03 PM   #36
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I have a 327, and they do indeed resist more rpms than a 350, and it brings the RPM's up quicker too. As far as the deal about comp cams and crane cams being junk, these people should learn how to properly seat the cams by idling the engine at higher RPMs for the first 15-30 minutes of the engine firing up. I've had my Comp Cam for nearly six years, not too many miles, but I am hard on it, and I've had no problems. If I would replace it, it would be to go roller. I would think if those companys made "junk" they wouldn't be around any more.
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Old 01-30-2003, 03:57 PM   #37
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327 quandary

I would definitely look into the 283 crank for a 302 proposition, as previously mentioned. It would be a sweet running little engine, maybe with some vortec heads, certainly more interesting than another 350, not that I'm knocking them, got one myself.
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Old 01-30-2003, 05:05 PM   #38
RON WOODGEARD
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IfYOU DO GO THE 301/302 ROUTE, (IT'S A KICKER) Go short gears!!! They are designed to let the engine rev, not pull. And don't take your attention away from the Tach, When you nail it!!! It winds as fast as a Ricer.. Man were they FUN!!!!!!


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Old 01-30-2003, 07:31 PM   #39
MAC67
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hey 72 step,,trust me pal,,,i know all about the break in procedure,,ive done my fare share of motors,,,and im just sayin ,,the cams make better boat anchors than cams,,but everyone is entitled to thier opinions,,,if i build a motor that im going to rely on,,i sure wont go with cheap,,and crane and comp fall directley in the cheap catagory,,
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Old 01-30-2003, 08:09 PM   #40
JDL
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There are cast steel cranks and There are fourged steel cranks
But they are all made out of steel. It is just how they are made.
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