wilwood master cylinder size?

[gmhardwick66]

I was thinking the same thing as you moose but at a recent car show I seen an early resto mod firebird with the exact set up I was looking for with a CPP master cylinder, no booster. he said 7/8" bore was the way to go. He claimed that small bore equals easier pedal, more pressure....bigger bore equals harder pedal. Also claimed bigger bore like the 1 1/8" would need a booster to in effect help with harder pedal. He seemed extremely educated on the subject. It made sense what he was preaching only I would use a wildwood m/c. But calling wildwood would as moose said be the way to go.

[Mr.chivo]

Someone locally told me to use the 7/8" as well for my stock disc/drum and that supposedly my braking system was going to work better in relation to braking with just the manual Wilwood MC than my factory power booster setup. Can anyone back this up?

[SierraMtns]

Tagged for later MC.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by mooseknuckles

done...

Have you been able to drive the truck with the Wilwood master? How do you like it?

[mooseknuckles]

Originally Posted by SierraMtns

Have you been able to drive the truck with the Wilwood master? How do you like it?

oh yeah....a lot harder pedal, but now that I'm used to it I don't even notice...I can stop this thing in a hurry if I have to....I'm putting one on the '67 too...

[junkdealer2]

As a general rule, residual valves are only required when the master cylinder is mounted even with or below the level of the wheel end components.
Also on a disc/drum or a disc/disc system, a proportioning valve can be avoided by adjusting the bore of the wheel cylinders with rear drums or the caliper bore when a selection is available.
When reliability is key, the less places for leaks the better.