c20 towing capacity

[long67]

Your truck will handle that set up just fine,Its not much different than what I tow and have since 1989.

[jkeady]

Originally Posted by tsetsaf

go get a real receiver mounted.

Agreed. Truck is more than capable, design and weight capability of current hitch is questionable. A new bumper / receiver is a (relatively) cheap way to get right.

[LJS30]

Originally Posted by paulbrgr9999

Got it hooked up. Dragged it about 30 miles so far. Half freeway half surface street. Didnt have a problem. Tomorrow I plan on taking it about 85 miles total. I included pics.

I am worried now that one post says to stay under 3000lbs. Its 3400 dry. Two sport quads 1 dirt bike and other stuff probably brings my total weight for the trailer to 4700 lbs tops.

it crused right along on the freeway. I checked the hitch under the truck and nothing is lose. All the welds look good.

am I crazy to tow this rig?

paul

I'm not a towing expert but that setup looks more the reasonable for that pickup. Nice truck by the way!!

[paulbrgr9999]

Originally Posted by jkeady

Agreed. Truck is more than capable, design and weight capability of current hitch is questionable. A new bumper / receiver is a (relatively) cheap way to get right.

What exactly would you suggest? Can you post an image of the bumper/receiver I should install?

thanks,

paul

[70's luvr]

I'd say you'll be fine, but I'll post up a pic of my set-up which is similar to yours with just a bit more bracing when I get home from work.

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by paulbrgr9999

What exactly would you suggest? Can you post an image of the bumper/receiver I should install?

thanks,

paul

I agree with all who said to install a good receiver hitch. You may be fine, but why risk the safety of your family, others and your toys with questionable equipment. Trailer owners typically underestimate weights, and over time, you will probably carry more and more stuff with you.

You don't necessarily need a new bumper if you cut all the hitch components off your existing bumper before mounting a receiver. Your bumper appears to be in excellent shape. Curt Manufacturing makes nice receivers that appear to be powder coated. For your application, they have 2 versions. One is for use "with 10" step bumper" the other is "except 10" step bumper". The step bumper version is #13099. The other is #13028. I'd probably opt for the step version even if your bumper is less than 10". It is more substantial and may drop lower to clear the bumper.

Their website is http://www.curtmfg.com/

Google "Curt 13099" and "Curt 13028" and you'll find all sorts of online sellers at lower prices.

Good luck, relax and have fun!

[Coley]

Paul, you are clearly approaching this in a fairly conservative way and you might be overthinking things a bit.
Your truck is more capable of hauling than you think...and probably quite a bit more than the data plates says for at least 2 reasons:
-Its true that every manufacture adds a factor of safety to every system in their truck capacity rating to compensate for what is often called 'the fool factor' in engineering terms. This allows for the guys who are always overloading everything they own whilst running it into the ground....you have to cover off for these fools when establishing ratings capacities.
so if its says: 3000lbs max as an example...the capacity before probable failure will often be at least 50% more than that. This is off the record info...but I work in engineering so I know this.
-Next...one thing about the 'period ratings' for our trucks is that much of the rating is/was based on the tires provided and available for the trucks. The tires from this era were very poor by todays standards. Today the capacity ratings on tires are substantially higher and the generally all around quality and capability make hauling and driving so much better as you probably know.
An example is the 15" 1/2 ton truck tires from 1970...which had a capacity of about 1500lbs...and that was a truck tire. Today a 15" truck tire has a capacity well over 2000 lbs....sometimes reaching above 2500 lbs. This is one of the reasons that GM would not list high GVW ratings on the 1/2 ton trucks over 5400 lbs....the tires would push the limit of the upper rating...ie: 4x1500lbs = 6000lbs....too close so 'down list/grade' the rating.
If they had todays tires well.....4x2300 lbs = 9200 lbs....WOW, big jump in the theoretical numbers which would have made the engineering group more comfortable.
With the tire technology upgrade alone...there is a 'hidden' capacity advantage on all the trucks 1/2 ton (15") or the 3/4 ton (16"). This is my opinion and I do not have any data or testing information to justify this.....full disclosure.
If you are concerned about how the current hitch is mounted to the frame then...yes, go order high capacity Grade 8 bolts from a local fastener supplier and change them all out.
Great looking rig and good luck!!
Coley

[paulbrgr9999]

how do i know what grade bolts I have now? maybe they are already grade 8? i did not install them.

thanks

[paulbrgr9999]

ok, sorry to ask a question that i can answer myself using a google search. grade 8 bolts have 6 radial lines. I checked my hitch and it has grade 8 bolts. each one has the 6 radial lines.

paul

[jkeady]

Originally Posted by paulbrgr9999

What exactly would you suggest? Can you post an image of the bumper/receiver I should install?

thanks,

paul

A class III/IV Reese receiver like this:

http://www.reeseprod.com/content/pro...042&part=37087

And a step bumper that you could probably pull out of most wrecking yards for a few bucks. Probably less than $300 start to finish.

[jkeady]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

I agree with all who said to install a good receiver hitch. You may be fine, but why risk the safety of your family, others and your toys with questionable equipment. Trailer owners typically underestimate weights, and over time, you will probably carry more and more stuff with you.

You don't necessarily need a new bumper if you cut all the hitch components off your existing bumper before mounting a receiver. Your bumper appears to be in excellent shape. Curt Manufacturing makes nice receivers that appear to be powder coated. For your application, they have 2 versions. One is for use "with 10" step bumper" the other is "except 10" step bumper". The step bumper version is #13099. The other is #13028. I'd probably opt for the step version even if your bumper is less than 10". It is more substantial and may drop lower to clear the bumper.

Their website is http://www.curtmfg.com/

Google "Curt 13099" and "Curt 13028" and you'll find all sorts of online sellers at lower prices.

Good luck, relax and have fun!

Or this one, too.

It's not a huge, hairy issue to deal with. Total install time would probably be a Saturday afternoon, if you take a pop break every now and then.

[paulbrgr9999]

Originally Posted by jkeady

A class III/IV Reese receiver like this:

http://www.reeseprod.com/content/pro...042&part=37087

And a step bumper that you could probably pull out of most wrecking yards for a few bucks. Probably less than $300 start to finish.

im sorry but that only bolts at 3 points on each side. and only on the top. what i have now bolts at 8 points and wraps around the frame rail like a hand grasping the frame rail. i appreciate your suggestion but i don't see how the receiver your suggesting could be stronger than what i have now. please tell me how this would be stronger than what i have now.

paul

[imjeff]

Originally Posted by dajn

Paying attention to weight ratings is like paying attention to how many tylenol you should take for a headache. I always take four to get rid of the headache quickly. Most people only take two because that's what the label says. Your pickup can handle way more than they recommend.

Wow! Not to be a downer, but acetaminophen toxicity is the leading cause of liver failure in the US. There are many who argue the label warnings don't go far enough due to the risk and interactions. I've treated patients who died from acetaminophen caused liver failure, some from intentional ODs and some thinking it's no big deal because it's OTC. Since livers are hard to come by they generally die as there is no treatment. A cavalier attitude toward warnings can cause death. With Tylenol, it's just you, with operating an overweight and under-braked vehicle it's everyone else. Please don't disregard them.

[imjeff]

Originally Posted by paulbrgr9999

Still trying to nail down the towing capacity of my c20. I want to pull a small toy hauler. Few hundred pounds short of 5000lbs loaded. I included pictures of the receiver and where the hitch bolts to the frame. Any opinions?

I agree with the posters who say replace the hitch. There are a couple concerns I would have about your set up. Not sure if it's addressed in an area I can't see from the photos, but the big one is a lack of lateral bracing. The commercial receivers have bends that result in a more laterally stable piece. The other concern is the weld (not the weld on the receiver tube). It looks too cold to have much strength.

I don't agree that there is a ton of extra capacity engineered in. It's there for things like road conditions, etc. These trucks will drag way over their limits on smooth, flat, dry pavement, but potholes, rain, cars that believe they need 2" clearance before they come across your hood and age degrade the capabilities. I'd upgrade to front discs. I'm also upgrading to hydra-boost in the near future.

Good luck!

Jeff

[jkeady]

Originally Posted by paulbrgr9999

im sorry but that only bolts at 3 points on each side. and only on the top. what i have now bolts at 8 points and wraps around the frame rail like a hand grasping the frame rail. i appreciate your suggestion but i don't see how the receiver your suggesting could be stronger than what i have now. please tell me how this would be stronger than what i have now.

paul

Man, if you are confident in how your hitch was designed and welded, run with it and more power to you. I can't tell from the pictures you posted if all of the welds are of quality or if there is any dangerous geometry going on. The factory-produced hitches that have been posted are tested and rated to a specific load and having that info would give me peace of mind. Run with what you're happy running.

[70's luvr]

This is what mine came with and looks like it has many heavy miles on it.

[paulbrgr9999]

Originally Posted by 70's luvr

This is what mine came with and looks like it has many heavy miles on it.

good god. looks like it was made out of parts from railroad tracks. i would not worry if mine was like that.

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by paulbrgr9999

Thanks for the info. Glad you express your opinion. Dont worry if you think its something i dont want to hear. Sounds like you all know a hell of a lot more than i do. Up to now i have never towed anything more than a couple jet skiis. Maybe 2000lbs total. Im going to continue to look into ways to strengthen the setup.

So what is recommend then to boost my towing capacity at the hitch that would make it a safer setup?

paul

Since there has been a lot more information posted, there isn't really a lot more I can add.

Your step bumper was originally attached to the frame with the two "S" shaped side bars and the four closely spaced bolts. That works pretty good and most I have even found a rating for were about 2500/250Lb. On yours they added a lot but most of it is to keep the bumper itself from folding up and really does not address the frame loads. While you pointed out it has foru additional bolts, they go into the lower flange and are not even supported fully where they contact the frame. As it sits your hitch is very much like a spring board if that helps you picture the loads.

As far as making it better, there may be ways and as I suggested earlier a good shop might be your best start. You stated in you other thread a coulpe of shops agreed it would be ok for a 5,000lb trailer. But I must ask did you tell them it was an equalizer rig or did they offer to "certify" it for you as a paid service?

My views became very strong on the subject of hitches and mirrors due to hauling a lot of horses in and around California. Live loads are a true test of a vehicle system as a whole.
You should experience having a pair of quarter horses who are swaying in unison inside a trailer just for the fun of it.
In fact on my prime truck we did not even run a rear bumper.
Just had a receiver hitch and the frame exposed so they could be inspected easily, along with the spare.

Since you admitted to being new to this, a review of "Trailer Life" trailering guides might give you a lot of background, verbage and some reassurance. http://www.trailerlife.com/trailer-towing-guides/

[Gregs71]

Personally, I'd would feel a lot more comfortable with a class V hitch. Other than that, I wouldn't hesitate pulling that trailer with that truck assuming it's in good mechanical condition ( which it sounds like it is).

[paulbrgr9999]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Since there has been a lot more information posted, there isn't really a lot more I can add.

Your step bumper was originally attached to the frame with the two "S" shaped side bars and the four closely spaced bolts. That works pretty good and most I have even found a rating for were about 2500/250Lb. On yours they added a lot but most of it is to keep the bumper itself from folding up and really does not address the frame loads. While you pointed out it has foru additional bolts, they go into the lower flange and are not even supported fully where they contact the frame. As it sits your hitch is very much like a spring board if that helps you picture the loads.

As far as making it better, there may be ways and as I suggested earlier a good shop might be your best start. You stated in you other thread a coulpe of shops agreed it would be ok for a 5,000lb trailer. But I must ask did you tell them it was an equalizer rig or did they offer to "certify" it for you as a paid service?

My views became very strong on the subject of hitches and mirrors due to hauling a lot of horses in and around California. Live loads are a true test of a vehicle system as a whole.
You should experience having a pair of quarter horses who are swaying in unison inside a trailer just for the fun of it.
In fact on my prime truck we did not even run a rear bumper.
Just had a receiver hitch and the frame exposed so they could be inspected easily, along with the spare.

Since you admitted to being new to this, a review of "Trailer Life" trailering guides might give you a lot of background, verbage and some reassurance. http://www.trailerlife.com/trailer-towing-guides/

I very much appreciate your opinion. I went to one trailer shop and was told not to worry. That the hitch I have was sufficient. Your right, they did not put that in writing. Im going to get a couple more opinions from shops. Keep in mind they have every incentive to tell me my hitch is not sufficient so they can sell me something.

ill post what I find out.

[paulbrgr9999]

I went this morning to orange trailer and hitch. The owner looked at my hitch and said 5000lbs is no problem. He said it would be advisable to use a weight distribution system which I am using.

This was the second opinion from a trailer and hitch installer. I think im done worrying about this. Thanks to all for their input.

paul

[70's luvr]

Weight dist hitch will work great. I use one on my 4runner pulling a trailer your size.

[paulbrgr9999]

Originally Posted by 70's luvr

Weight dist hitch will work great. I use one on my 4runner pulling a trailer your size.

What size engine does your 4 runner have in it? Reason I ask is because I have a 09 ford ranger with a 4 liter v6 and towing package (trans cooler, receiver, supercooling radiator etc). According to the ford manual it will tow up to 8000lbs. But dam I just dont like the idea of even a small toy hauler being pulled by such a light weight vehicle. It feels more like a car than a truck to me. I kicked around the idea of towing with the ranger and said naw ill do it with the chevy.

I know this is not a ford forum but any opinions on towing a 16 foot toy hauler with my ranger?

Paul

[BlacklandCamper]

I know I have towed a 16 foot flatbed trailer with a Ford 8N tractor and a 5ft mow deck behind my Nissan.

Its a '93 2wd D21, with a 2.4L 4cyl, and 3.53 gears.
It wasn't fast, but it pulled it without an issue.

The Nissan has a GVWR of 4400lbs.

[swamp rat]

Just keep an eye on it, my opinion is it may bend but not fail in a catastrophic way, if you notice it is starting to bend or distort then think about a frame mounted receiver.