Starting my engine build

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by davepl

One thing I like to do is to make sure I finish a sub-project such that the vehicle runs and drives. So if I was going to do some engine work and then some suspension work, I'd want to get it on the road and sorted out and debugged on the engine work before I started the suspension work.

Normally, since none of us are perfect and few of us are professionals, you build up a set of "bugs" that need to be fixed, but if you don't stop along the way to fix those, they just accumulate so that when you want to go out and test your new brakes you find out it stalls instead of driving. Too hard to fix multiple things at once, so get it back up and running right in between projects.

Hope that makes sense.

Yep I'm mowin what your growin I'd like to get the truck all the way into the garage and up pretty high on jack stands while doing the suspension too. No point in breaking my back and trying to squeeze under this thing. Pulling it in will be much easier with a running truck. I'll have to resist the urge to romp on it I guess until the whole truck is ready lol

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by toolboxchev

My suggestion would be to clean everything and just get your engine done first. Why? MONEY!

It starts getting expensive fast also. Look at some of the rigs on here, I read one about a driver that slowly turned into a drag racer over the course of 20-30 years.

You can always do more work to your project, fun ride. It can break the bank if your not careful.

Me I am going out to fix a heater wire.

I was actually trying to remind myself of that a few times when the short block was bare. I wanted to go 383 so bad lol this is a good point though, nothing says I can't tear it back down in a few years

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by toolboxchev

Me I am going out to fix a heater wire.

Just curious, did the blower motor stop working because mine doesn't blow and I have zero experience with heaters

[Average Joe]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Find a stock heavy front sway bar from a c-20 in the parts section and then buy a rear bar from one of the vendors and matching spring shock kits .

Great advice! I bet you could find one in a wrecking yard for under 30 bux. Easy swap and by far the best bang for the buck. Any bar off a 2wd from a 73-87 will work as well.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

Just curious, did the blower motor stop working because mine doesn't blow and I have zero experience with heaters

Everything has been replaced on the system except 2 things, the wiring and the silly voltage regulator for the heater system.

I ran a wire from the fuse panel heater location to a switch on the aftermarket tach mount direct to a new blower motor.

They are fairly simple systems, everything is covered in electrical. What is not there you can figure out by the wiring diagram and some basic electrical google search.

Again the nice thing about these rigs, simplicity.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

Are the C20 front bars better than aftermarket? Just curious because that sounds like one of those bits you've learned after doing a few truck builds

Also, I can't see what clamp you mean on the helper springs, but I'm wondering why it has helped springs anyway. Still can't find the SPID or I'd know alot more about this truck

AND...is there a benefit to switching to 5 lug when doing brake kits? Been looking around at lots of front disk brake kits and seems like a lot of guys go to 5 lug

(They are bigger and mount different than after market)

(I saw a picture of your rear axle and it shows 2 springs mounted to the rear axle with u bolt clamps ? Take a few pictures of your rear suspension so we can see whats going on ?)

( there are more wheel/axle choices for 5 lug )

[Mrturner1]

Back to work finally! I went with the Performer RPM, no air gap this time. Saw a lot of dyno sheets showing about 6-7 hp increase with the air gap, but I want to keep the drivability

[Mrturner1]

What's the best way to make sure the timing is set right and to drop the distributor in? I read to rotate the engine to 5 degrees BTDC, then put distributor in with number one wire lined up with the pointer

[Mrturner1]

I went with the satin finish and I think that was a good call by somebody earlier in the thread. The combination or satin and bits of chrome here and there will look great

[Mrturner1]

Front

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

What's the best way to make sure the timing is set right and to drop the distributor in? I read to rotate the engine to 5 degrees BTDC, then put distributor in with number one wire lined up with the pointer

If you lined up the dots on the cam and crank gear, don't forget to rotate crank 360 degrees before installing distributor pointing to plug wire #1. If you don't, you distributor timing will be 180 degrees out.

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by Davidf

If you lined up the dots on the cam and crank gear, don't forget to rotate crank 360 degrees before installing distributor pointing to plug wire #1. If you don't, you distributor timing will be 180 degrees out.

Thanks for the quick response!

Ok so it was at #1 TDC and I adjusted half the valves, then I turned it one full rotation so the #6 was at TDC, then adjusted the remaining valves. I haven't rotated it since, so just to clarify, I need to rotate one more full turn to be back at #1 TDC and THEN drop the distributor, correct?

[Mrturner1]

One other thing, can I make the #1 cylinder any spot I want on the distributor? And then go with firing order clockwise from there?

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

One other thing, can I make the #1 cylinder any spot I want on the distributor? And then go with firing order clockwise from there?

Sure you can.
If you where on 6 oclock on the cam gear and 12 oclock on the crank gear when you started out, then at that time you where on #6tdc.
To be safe on whether you're on #1 or #6 tdc, it's easier to pull #1 plug, feel for compression, line up your timing tab at zero, then install your distributor with rotor pointing at #1.

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Sure you can.
If you where on 6 oclock on the cam gear and 12 oclock on the crank gear when you started out, then at that time you where on #6tdc.
To be safe on whether you're on #1 or #6 tdc, it's easier to pull #1 plug, feel for compression, line up your timing tab at zero, then install your distributor with rotor pointing at #1.

Thanks! I'll check it to be on the safe side

[Mrturner1]

I pulled a rookie move and a few weeks ago I bought a water pump and painted it before I compared it to the old one. Parts guy said it was for a 70' but it's a short pump when my old one is a long pump. Can't return it cuz it's painted, so how much changes from long to short? Pulleys? Other stuff? I'm switching to electric fans so no need for the clutch fan if that matters

[Mrturner1]

Probably a silly question but is it okay that there's paint on the surface where the water pump gasket sits?

[Mrturner1]

What can I use safely to clean up this starter? May just get a new one if I can't clean this one up

[Captainfab]

All trucks '72 and earlier came from the factory with short water pumps. The pulleys and accessory mounting brackets are different between a short and long water pump. If your engine previously had a long water pump and all the pulleys l;ined up, then you will need another long water pump. Be aware that there are 2 variations in the V-belt type long water pumps for the small block. The difference is in the boss for the alternator top bracket and the hole for the power steering pump bracket. It will be either a smooth bore or threaded.

[Mrturner1]

It's almost midnight I'm throwing in the towel

[Mrturner1]

Pic

[Mrturner1]

Looking like an engine again finally. I got new MSD plug wires but I wanted to see how it looked with the old ones. The old ones aren't long enough for the wire looms so I'm gonna ditch them and use the new red MSD ones

[swamp rat]

Did you put RTV (coolant resistant) on the water pump gaskets? Or did they have the sealant on them? Did you put thread sealant on the bolts that go into the water jacket?

Per the paint on the water pump gasket area, i always scrape it off with my gasket scraper off so i cant tell you if it matters.

Per the starter i would probably use what ever i could find available, carb or brake cleaner, or the stuff you cleaned the block with.

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Did you put RTV (coolant resistant) on the water pump gaskets? Or did they have the sealant on them? Did you put thread sealant on the bolts that go into the water jacket?

Per the paint on the water pump gasket area, i always scrape it off with my gasket scraper off so i cant tell you if it matters.

Per the starter i would probably use what ever i could find available, carb or brake cleaner, or the stuff you cleaned the block with.

Yep put a small film around the water pump gasket and sealant on all 4 bolts. Today I'm going to try and get the plug wires made and start on the motor well. I thought the plug wires came already the right length and built but apparently not. I don't have a vice so I need to figure out how to go about crimping the ends

[swamp rat]

spark plug wire crimping tool

Google this.... click images