Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LT7A

So help me understand. You decided to fix some stuff while you were in there that wasn't really broken but could be better. And in order to fix it you had to break it and now that it's broken you have to unbroke it. Is that about right?

If so I can sympathize and wish you luck.

that is positively correct

[Gregski]

when splicing in a new pig tail I like to cut my wires in staggered formation to offset the joins and keep my wiring harness from looking like an anaconda that just swallowed a bunny rabbit whole

[Gregski]

and just like that we got our gear selector reading proper gears again, upper right hand corner of my super awesome (pronounced: expensive) gauge

[Gregski]

Well great, no sooner do I fix that, and now I have to deal with a clicking solenoid I recon, more as the news develops

[Wgesnerjr]

I learned this as well.

For those that try to unplug the shift indicator switch on the trans, the plugs are "glued" in for some reason. I figure some one at GM thought they should keep contaminates out.

I learned that if you heat the switch with a heat gun or blow drier, the plugs will release. This will have to be done each time you unplug as the glue will adhere once the plugs are inserted.

Gregski found the easiest way of all. Replace with a non-glued switch and plugs.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

I learned this as well.

For those that try to unplug the shift indicator switch on the trans, the plugs are "glued" in for some reason. I figure some one at GM thought they should keep contaminates out.

I learned that if you heat the switch with a heat gun or blow drier, the plugs will release. This will have to be done each time you unplug as the glue will adhere once the plugs are inserted.

Gregski found the easiest way of all. Replace with a non-glued switch and plugs.

Yes sir, I wish I would have done did this prior to droppin her in the rig. Anywho the previous motor owner must have gently removed the plugs using a 5 foot long pry bar, just sayin'

Interestingly my 2004 swap has the newer style larger single plugulator on this switch, and GM must have ran out of glue for those, cause it seems to go in and out freely

[Gregski]

so I managed to hook up my laptop with HP Tuners on it and use a feature in the Scanner called Controls & Special Functions which allows you to click things off and on on demand in hopes of figuring out which one of the transmission solenoids is doing all the loud clicking

and I must admit with the key in the on position and the truck not running, both 1-2 and the 2-3 solenoids sound exactly the same

I also drove around with each one disabled at a time to see if the clicking goes away, and it does with both, but I think the 1-2 solenoid is the bad one, as I don't think we'll ever shift from second to third if the 1-2 solenoid is disabled type a thing

if you got experience with this stuff please help a brother out, I aint an automagical transmission expert by any means

[LT7A]

Cool that you have that diagnostic capability and I hope it indicates the problem. Sorry that I am no help.

[Gregski]

yeah I'm pretty sure we need to replace the transonamission solenoid, so I decided to check my camber instead

we always air them up to some consistent pressure at all four corners, I went 35 PSI today

[Gregski]

then I decided that the good ol' analog Cambermatic 300 just was not cutting it any longer

shown here reporting an absurd amount of negative camber on the texter side of the rig, don't get me wrong it's accurate but it reads in "bubbles" and not in degrees

[Gregski]

so it was time to whittle a new tool (not my idea I seen this on the InterWebs)

[Gregski]

you know me and rounded corners on my brackets, well that's how I do on custom tools as well...

[Gregski]

ladies and gentlement... The Digital Cambermatic 3000

[Gregski]

and here it is in action

Driver side has 1.20° of Negative Camber which is OK(ish)

Texter side has 2.10° of Negative Camber which is Too Much

however now at least we know in degrees how much out of whack we are

Note: I believe back in the day the Manuals for these 60s and 70s vehicles read something like +1° or -1° of camber was acceptable, which is redunculous, you go ahead and set your driver side wheel to -1° and your passenger side to +1° and I'll meet you at the telephone pole

[Gregski]

so it was time to bust out the shims, and when it comes to Camber, don't over think things, first if you struggle with remembering which is Negative camber and which is Positive camber, just remember In and Out as in the top of the wheels lean In or the top of the wheels lean Out

and just use the alphabet trick

N in Negative comes before P in Positive just as I in In comes before O in Out

You're welcome

[Gregski]

remember we are focusing just on the passenger side, so here is what the current shimming situation looks like

and if all you are doing is addressing the Camber then always add or remove the same amount of shims to both the front and the back of the upper control arm

Note: there are more shims in the back of the upper control arm that is to set Positive Caster a topic for another day

[Gregski]

some shims come with a little hole in them mine did not, now they do

this makes it zip tie friendly and keeps the profanity down to a minimum

[Gregski]

mandatory stare and compare of the ol' analog Cambermatic 300 and the new and improved digital Cambermatic 3000 shown with the Pro Plus option second magnetic level attachment used to ensure verticability

[Gregski]

so adding two shims to front and back of the upper control arm got me in the OK(ish) ballpark with the same negative camber on both sides, I may revisit both sides after some shake down driving and see if I can get them both slightly under -1°

[4u2nv]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so adding two shims to front and back of the upper control arm got me in the OK(ish) ballpark with the same negative camber on both sides, I may revisit both sides after some shake down driving and see if I can get them both slightly under -1°

I like your method .

[Gregski]

it's that time of year again...

Annual Seat Sale!

[Wgesnerjr]

Oooh!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

Oooh!

You mean Oooh! Oooh! Oooh!

[Wgesnerjr]

You're right!!

I cant wait for a Gregski install write up on these!!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

You're right!!

I cant wait for a Gregski install write up on these!!

probly not what you had in mind, but her you go...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=525